I'm at the intake manifold phase of an cylnder head porting project. Just a few questions. In the picture below you'll see a little curve in the intake manifold (inside the elipse labelled "A"). You should also see my scribed line for port matching. My questions are:
1. Does that curve restrict the injector flow into the combustion chamber (since as you see it could have been much deeper)?
2. Will I cause any fuel atomisation issues if I port the manifold to my scribed line ( erasing the curve in the process)?
3. Would it help air flow if I smooth out the edge labelled "B"
Any help greatly appreciated!!
1. Does that curve restrict the injector flow into the combustion chamber (since as you see it could have been much deeper)?
2. Will I cause any fuel atomisation issues if I port the manifold to my scribed line ( erasing the curve in the process)?
3. Would it help air flow if I smooth out the edge labelled "B"
Any help greatly appreciated!!
Lexus Champion
Don't touch the manifoldst.
1) The runners are too big for a non boosted engine to begin with.
2) Port matching is a complete waste of your time. It doesn't increase power
3) You are correct. That area area should not have a smoothe transition. It is meant to induce turbulence to help the mixture.
Do not port the intake manifolds. It's useless.
At most, just run an 80 grit flap wheel sanding disk through it to clean the mess out of it without having to sit around scrubbing all day.
Spend all your time on the heads & go get a good 3-angle valve job done. Have them milled flat too. Shouldn't cost you more than $200 for having both done.
You might as well remove the EGR equipment, provided you have no emessions testing. Or you can pass without it working.
1) The runners are too big for a non boosted engine to begin with.
2) Port matching is a complete waste of your time. It doesn't increase power
3) You are correct. That area area should not have a smoothe transition. It is meant to induce turbulence to help the mixture.
Do not port the intake manifolds. It's useless.
At most, just run an 80 grit flap wheel sanding disk through it to clean the mess out of it without having to sit around scrubbing all day.
Spend all your time on the heads & go get a good 3-angle valve job done. Have them milled flat too. Shouldn't cost you more than $200 for having both done.
You might as well remove the EGR equipment, provided you have no emessions testing. Or you can pass without it working.
Alright thanks. I want the 3 angle valve job but thats not done out here in St Kitts. So I'll have to just do a good job with the heads.
Just trying to ensure that I'm not hallucinating. How many angles do you see on this valve seat?
Is this the norm for all 3VZFE's or is it a JDM thing? I've not yet measured them to see if they match recommended throat, seat and top cut angles for street performance but they seem to be there!
If they're ok then its just back cutting the valves and lapping, polishing the bowls, and exhaust ports and I'm done?
Phoenix, I'm running a '93 Windom so there's no EGR equipment
Is this the norm for all 3VZFE's or is it a JDM thing? I've not yet measured them to see if they match recommended throat, seat and top cut angles for street performance but they seem to be there!
If they're ok then its just back cutting the valves and lapping, polishing the bowls, and exhaust ports and I'm done?
Phoenix, I'm running a '93 Windom so there's no EGR equipment
Lexus Champion
That's one angle on the valve seat itself. Normal valve job. Just lap the carbon & stuff off the valves.
Just don't go at the valve too much & wind up cutting the whole thing down. 'cause then you're just loosing compression.
Werd on the non-US no emessions equipment 3vz-fe's.
Just don't go at the valve too much & wind up cutting the whole thing down. 'cause then you're just loosing compression.
Werd on the non-US no emessions equipment 3vz-fe's.