Replacing Mount Strut and Side Axle help?
06-06-16, 08:15 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Replacing Mount Strut and Side Axle help?
So I just got a nice tune up and my car is running 100x smoother but it's making the other little issues stand out more. I need to replace the front drivers side Mount Strut and Side Axle. The mount strut is causing a little knock sound when I go over small bumps and the side axle is leaking.
Even a Lexus mechanic told me the prices are going to be insane if I get them from the dealership and I should try non oem. So my questions are...
Anyone replaced these parts?
Should I try to get the parts from a junkyard? Online? Advanced Auto parts or Auto Zone?
Any feedback is much appreciated guys.
Even a Lexus mechanic told me the prices are going to be insane if I get them from the dealership and I should try non oem. So my questions are...
Anyone replaced these parts?
Should I try to get the parts from a junkyard? Online? Advanced Auto parts or Auto Zone?
Any feedback is much appreciated guys.
06-06-16, 01:13 PM
#2
I have replaced front strut mounts. I purchased OEM, new. Had several on line quotes from lexus dealers selling parts - took that quote to local toyota dealer and they honored the online price.
06-06-16, 04:20 PM
#3
On the mount, this is one of the few parts that nobody has found a non factory quality replacement. Even the KYB ones are reported to fail. I would try to get toyota on the best deal. If the gap was still huge, I might try the KYB and install carefully - but I wouldn't get anything else.
On the axle, (I am assuming you mean 1/2 shaft/cv axle) - best way is to get it rebuilt. If you can afford to not drive it a few days, pull the axle and take the assembly to a driveline shop. If you get a quote their service will fall between aftermarket and OE and will get you a precision rebuilt piece with OE materials. A lot of aftermarket ones are just cheaply done and wear out. Looking on RockAuto right now for a 1998 ES for example, there is nothing they offer I would put in my vehicle.
BUT: what is it doing that you are planning on replacing? Often you can re-pack and re-boot the original one if it was not abused badly and it will work fine.
On the axle, (I am assuming you mean 1/2 shaft/cv axle) - best way is to get it rebuilt. If you can afford to not drive it a few days, pull the axle and take the assembly to a driveline shop. If you get a quote their service will fall between aftermarket and OE and will get you a precision rebuilt piece with OE materials. A lot of aftermarket ones are just cheaply done and wear out. Looking on RockAuto right now for a 1998 ES for example, there is nothing they offer I would put in my vehicle.
BUT: what is it doing that you are planning on replacing? Often you can re-pack and re-boot the original one if it was not abused badly and it will work fine.
06-07-16, 07:43 AM
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Yes by side axle, I mean the cv joint/cv axle. Mechanic friend said its barely leaking. He said its not necessary to change it this very moment but I should when I can...
06-07-16, 04:08 PM
#5
Leaking? Like a dribble of grease from a single spot? Boot not torn, grinding on turns?
If that's all it's doing, what you need to do is this:
A) Use dykes to cut away the factory boot clamp.
B) Use long zip ties of the appropriate size (2 if needed) to re-cinch tightly. Pliers to pull and a screwdriver to provide pressure on the locking teeth will allow you to get it right.
C) Walk away. You're done.
If it is not torn and and not making noise, there's NO reason to pull it or replace it. You will not have lost enough grease to matter. You can use proper CV clamps, but they require a special tool to apply and really aren't that superior to quality zip-ties in most all respects. Lots of professional mechanics use them. I've done both.
If that's all it's doing, what you need to do is this:
A) Use dykes to cut away the factory boot clamp.
B) Use long zip ties of the appropriate size (2 if needed) to re-cinch tightly. Pliers to pull and a screwdriver to provide pressure on the locking teeth will allow you to get it right.
C) Walk away. You're done.
If it is not torn and and not making noise, there's NO reason to pull it or replace it. You will not have lost enough grease to matter. You can use proper CV clamps, but they require a special tool to apply and really aren't that superior to quality zip-ties in most all respects. Lots of professional mechanics use them. I've done both.
Last edited by Oro; 06-07-16 at 04:14 PM.
06-08-16, 06:24 AM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
I think he meant it's barely leaking. Barely visible at all. No, it not making noise when I turn. I've heard its definetly time to change it when it's at that point. So I'm guessing it's at the baby stage since he just said to keep it in mind and do it whenever I can. I think I'll hold off if that's the case....
I want to do my strut mount since I'm so tired of hearing a faint knock bump when I'm over speed bumps lol. Is that a common symptom of a bad one?
I want to do my strut mount since I'm so tired of hearing a faint knock bump when I'm over speed bumps lol. Is that a common symptom of a bad one?
Leaking? Like a dribble of grease from a single spot? Boot not torn, grinding on turns?
If that's all it's doing, what you need to do is this:
A) Use dykes to cut away the factory boot clamp.
B) Use long zip ties of the appropriate size (2 if needed) to re-cinch tightly. Pliers to pull and a screwdriver to provide pressure on the locking teeth will allow you to get it right.
C) Walk away. You're done.
If it is not torn and and not making noise, there's NO reason to pull it or replace it. You will not have lost enough grease to matter. You can use proper CV clamps, but they require a special tool to apply and really aren't that superior to quality zip-ties in most all respects. Lots of professional mechanics use them. I've done both.
If that's all it's doing, what you need to do is this:
A) Use dykes to cut away the factory boot clamp.
B) Use long zip ties of the appropriate size (2 if needed) to re-cinch tightly. Pliers to pull and a screwdriver to provide pressure on the locking teeth will allow you to get it right.
C) Walk away. You're done.
If it is not torn and and not making noise, there's NO reason to pull it or replace it. You will not have lost enough grease to matter. You can use proper CV clamps, but they require a special tool to apply and really aren't that superior to quality zip-ties in most all respects. Lots of professional mechanics use them. I've done both.
06-08-16, 09:15 AM
#7
And yes, it sounds like a mount issue. Do you live in an area with bad roads? It's a very usage-dependent item. Drive around Brooklyn all the time, they're gone in 80k. Western highways - 300k? 400k? (mine are going fine at 260k now, knock on wood).
Trending Topics
06-08-16, 12:14 PM
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks. I'll just do the axle when it starts making the noise then. Or whenever I have spare money to blow on it haha
Yeah, huge car city with lots of potholes and crap on freeways. It's probably the original mount and has been driving here for 16 years so not bad.
Yeah, huge car city with lots of potholes and crap on freeways. It's probably the original mount and has been driving here for 16 years so not bad.
You usually don't need to replace a 1/2 shaft until it's making noise when you are driving in a straight line. Prior to that, you can usually remove them, re-pack and re-boot them and you are good to go a very long time. If it's got a small leak, replace the boot clamp and as long as the boots are still pliable and not hard and cracked, you're good.
And yes, it sounds like a mount issue. Do you live in an area with bad roads? It's a very usage-dependent item. Drive around Brooklyn all the time, they're gone in 80k. Western highways - 300k? 400k? (mine are going fine at 260k now, knock on wood).
And yes, it sounds like a mount issue. Do you live in an area with bad roads? It's a very usage-dependent item. Drive around Brooklyn all the time, they're gone in 80k. Western highways - 300k? 400k? (mine are going fine at 260k now, knock on wood).
06-08-16, 10:27 PM
#10
Thanks. I'll just do the axle when it starts making the noise then. Or whenever I have spare money to blow on it haha
And it's worth inspecting it to make sure it isn't torn, but I imagine the mechanic would have told you that if it were the case.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jwigley
RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003)
3
12-29-14 07:52 PM