How to: Seafoam
03-15-09, 07:49 AM
#76
Pole Position
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: GA
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It is my understanding that you need to run it at high revs to completely burn off any carbon deposits that are in your engine. I did it twice in a row on my 1993 ES with 96K on it and it runs a lot smoother and quieter. I also noticed a big increase in performance. According to my mechanic, you have to run the engine at high revs when doing this for maximum effectiveness. It will not damage your engine. I didn't drive it around right away, I stayed in the driveway and kept rev's around 5000. I only drove it around after the smoke was nearly gone and I drove it around my neighborhood in 1st gear to keep the revs high. Works like a charm. The only thing my mechanic warned me about is to not let the engine suck up all of it at once, to slowly pour it into the brake booster.
04-14-09, 09:03 AM
#78
Lexus Champion
this is not the correct way to use seafoam. this way is riddled with risk. you want to do the intake version before doing the oil version, for one thing. second, do not drive aroudn with it during the oil version.
this is the last darned time, i swear, im saying this lol
next, the intake version is not 100% correct. this is correct:
Bring engine to normal operating temperature, then shut engine off.
2. Use a 610mm (?!) length of 1/8" I.D. vacuum hose as a feed tube for seafoam, although it is strongly advised to use an aerosol cleaner to eliminate the risk of liquid lock (some techs have done it). Do not use any of the vehicle's vacuum hoses for feeding cleaner into the engine otherwise they may deteriorate as a result (vacuum leaks on 24 possible hoses is tedious).
3. Connect one end of the feed tube to the Purge Control vacuum port on the upper intake manifold and place the other end of the feed tube in the can of seafoam, or to the spray nozzle of an aerosol. If a liquid bottle is used the feed rate must be at least 30 secs to avoid hydraulic lock-up damage.
4. Pinch the feed-tube with locking forceps or locking pliars to prevent suction during start-up.
5. Restart engine.
6. Allow idle to stabilise, then feed the cleaner into the engine by releasing the locking pliars/forceps while lifting engine speed to 3000rpm until half the cleaner is used. If using liquid feed, ensure feed-rate is always erring on the safe side by kinking the tube (a thumb screw clamp is ideal). If using a spray feed (preferred) keep shaking the can vigorously. At the half point allow the engine to stall, or shut-it off.
7. The vehicle should be left to sit for 6-24hrs allowing the cleaner to saturate the carbon, the initial intake of cleaner loosens carbon by both dissolving and also by a cold-shock.
8. Flush remaining carbon by repeating the above steps using the remaining half of the carb cleaner. Do not let the engine stall during the procedure.
9. Remove the feed tube & reconnect the purge control vacuum line.
10. Change oil & oil filter to remove contaminants & carbon in the oil which will otherwise be pumped through all parts of the engine.
11. Take the car on a 3-4 mile test drive, using the full-rpm range to remove any remaining cleaner or carbon from the engine.
The oil version you would do after all of this, you add [going to look it up, but for now, its on the back of the seafoam , ill brb to edit this] and so on <<and not drive it though>> then do an oil change after as well.
this is the last darned time, i swear, im saying this lol
next, the intake version is not 100% correct. this is correct:
Bring engine to normal operating temperature, then shut engine off.
2. Use a 610mm (?!) length of 1/8" I.D. vacuum hose as a feed tube for seafoam, although it is strongly advised to use an aerosol cleaner to eliminate the risk of liquid lock (some techs have done it). Do not use any of the vehicle's vacuum hoses for feeding cleaner into the engine otherwise they may deteriorate as a result (vacuum leaks on 24 possible hoses is tedious).
3. Connect one end of the feed tube to the Purge Control vacuum port on the upper intake manifold and place the other end of the feed tube in the can of seafoam, or to the spray nozzle of an aerosol. If a liquid bottle is used the feed rate must be at least 30 secs to avoid hydraulic lock-up damage.
4. Pinch the feed-tube with locking forceps or locking pliars to prevent suction during start-up.
5. Restart engine.
6. Allow idle to stabilise, then feed the cleaner into the engine by releasing the locking pliars/forceps while lifting engine speed to 3000rpm until half the cleaner is used. If using liquid feed, ensure feed-rate is always erring on the safe side by kinking the tube (a thumb screw clamp is ideal). If using a spray feed (preferred) keep shaking the can vigorously. At the half point allow the engine to stall, or shut-it off.
7. The vehicle should be left to sit for 6-24hrs allowing the cleaner to saturate the carbon, the initial intake of cleaner loosens carbon by both dissolving and also by a cold-shock.
8. Flush remaining carbon by repeating the above steps using the remaining half of the carb cleaner. Do not let the engine stall during the procedure.
9. Remove the feed tube & reconnect the purge control vacuum line.
10. Change oil & oil filter to remove contaminants & carbon in the oil which will otherwise be pumped through all parts of the engine.
11. Take the car on a 3-4 mile test drive, using the full-rpm range to remove any remaining cleaner or carbon from the engine.
The oil version you would do after all of this, you add [going to look it up, but for now, its on the back of the seafoam , ill brb to edit this] and so on <<and not drive it though>> then do an oil change after as well.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Ezz4001
GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005)
10
02-03-18 10:51 AM
