Intake Air Temperature Sensor
08-09-05, 06:45 PM
#3
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Really? My friend just gave me a "performance chip" for my car. He originally had it on his 96 es. Where did he have it if there is no IAT? And again thanks Pheonix, you always have the right answer, truly an asset to CL 
08-10-05, 07:42 AM
#4
others can obviously weigh in on this. But those performance chips dont do anything for this toyota engine. Ive also heard that some cause a power spike and can take out the computer.
oh! and ive not seen it as a chip but as a pigtail that plugs in.
~R
oh! and ive not seen it as a chip but as a pigtail that plugs in.
~R
08-10-05, 10:03 AM
#5
Na they can't spike anything. They're just a resistor in a box, with wires comming out. They work by lowering the voltage comming from any number of sensors.
Typically the IAT sensor -> trying to fool the car into thinking the air is more dense than it is -> inject a little more fuel.
The CTS sensor -> to fool the car into thinking the engine is still warming up -> makes the car inject a little more fuel.
Those are the big 2.
Unfortuntately, they don't work for 2 reasons.
1) All Toyota engine's are setup to run exceedingly rich to begin with. To make power via ECU tweaks, you want to inject LESS fuel in the first palce! Not more!
2) OBD-II oxygen sensors will tune out anything that isn't a very fine adjustment in seconds in closed-loop. By the time you hit the gas and you get in open-loop (stored settings, no o2 control) the fuel trims have been set, and the change is semi-perminant.
If you're looking for cheap horsepower, you can ebay an SAFC, or any other unit that can change the MAF output. (SAFC is the cheapest).
What you do is take out a fuel from say 4250rpm+ above 80% throttle. It'll accelerate harder.
If you think you have enough power to require more fuel (Like headwork), you can buy a pointometer and instal it on the CTS (coolant temp). When the car has warmed up completely & the idle is stable at 750rpm (just drive around the block & park), reduce the voltage until the idle rpm hits around 1000-1100rpm and stays there.
Your ecu is programmed to add up to 4% more injector duration (fuel) under such conditions. That works out to like... 11-12cc more fuel. Not a lot, but if you need a little fuel & don't want a piggyback... Good for a small handfull of horsepower.
Typically the IAT sensor -> trying to fool the car into thinking the air is more dense than it is -> inject a little more fuel.
The CTS sensor -> to fool the car into thinking the engine is still warming up -> makes the car inject a little more fuel.
Those are the big 2.
Unfortuntately, they don't work for 2 reasons.
1) All Toyota engine's are setup to run exceedingly rich to begin with. To make power via ECU tweaks, you want to inject LESS fuel in the first palce! Not more!
2) OBD-II oxygen sensors will tune out anything that isn't a very fine adjustment in seconds in closed-loop. By the time you hit the gas and you get in open-loop (stored settings, no o2 control) the fuel trims have been set, and the change is semi-perminant.
If you're looking for cheap horsepower, you can ebay an SAFC, or any other unit that can change the MAF output. (SAFC is the cheapest).
What you do is take out a fuel from say 4250rpm+ above 80% throttle. It'll accelerate harder.
If you think you have enough power to require more fuel (Like headwork), you can buy a pointometer and instal it on the CTS (coolant temp). When the car has warmed up completely & the idle is stable at 750rpm (just drive around the block & park), reduce the voltage until the idle rpm hits around 1000-1100rpm and stays there.
Your ecu is programmed to add up to 4% more injector duration (fuel) under such conditions. That works out to like... 11-12cc more fuel. Not a lot, but if you need a little fuel & don't want a piggyback... Good for a small handfull of horsepower.
Last edited by Pheonix; 08-10-05 at 10:08 AM.
07-09-16, 09:28 PM
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