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Coolant does expand, around 2% from cold to engine temperature.
That's actually important to understand.
Originally Posted by AptNull
Here you are. The white dots/splash on everything is the coolant that dried up, or I'm not sure what happened. But it went on everything when the car overheated as mentioned earlier in the thread and the coolant tank started releasing alot of coolant everywhere and smoking.
Still, seems like there is a hole somewhere in the system causing it to trap air and the coolant to boil over as pressure drops, said hole can be anywhere from a bad cap or loose hose to a blown head gasket, the only way to know would be to carefully inspect the system. The fact that there is a coolant leak even when the car is off and cold is a cause for concern all on its own, as it will keep trapping air in the loop.
Still, seems like there is a hole somewhere in the system causing it to trap air and the coolant to boil over as pressure drops, said hole can be anywhere from a bad cap or loose hose to a blown head gasket, the only way to know would be to carefully inspect the system. The fact that there is a coolant leak even when the car is off and cold is a cause for concern all on its own, as it will keep trapping air in the loop.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
I think the cap may be bad, it's the one from the factory and the rubber is so degraded that if you wipe your finger on the rubber it melts onto your skin in a skidmark fashion. Weird to explain.
I see tape on the reservoir is it cracked? If so it must be replaced. At minimum you need a new OEM rad cap (no exceptions) and reservoir in good shape that seals. Bleed the cooling system with this funnel
I see multiple vacuum lines with tape and hose clamps those are likely not sealing properly which will cause all kinds of running problems. But they won't cause your cooling system issues. Put the timing belt covers back on then wash the engine bay you can't do any proper diagnosis and work with that mess everywhere.
edit - you also may need a new radiator very common failure on these cars. Head gasket failure on the 1MZ is rare.
I see tape on the reservoir is it cracked? If so it must be replaced. At minimum you need a new OEM rad cap (no exceptions) and reservoir in good shape that seals. Bleed the cooling system with this funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097BHJJPS/
I see multiple vacuum lines with tape and hose clamps those are likely not sealing properly which will cause all kinds of running problems. But they won't cause your cooling system issues. Put the timing belt covers back on then wash the engine bay you can't do any proper diagnosis and work with that mess everywhere.
Let's say hypothetically I wanted to replace every vaccum hose on the vehicle myself.. how do I know what sizes to order from RockAuto and how much of each size? Is there anything to reference? And I have been meaning to clean everything up but the weather's been extremely poor and is going to be poor all weekend for me to stay out there for extended periods of time to do so. I'll get around to it eventually. For now since I already paid for the parts I'm going to replace MAF & O2 sensor and see if anything changes.
Replacing sensors is not going to help you it won't prevent coolant from being puked out of the system. Best way to replace vacuum hoses is raid a car at a salvage yard. Or get them from Toyota. These are only for the standard sized lines not for the various custom bent hoses/sizes. "parts store" vacuum lines are junk they don't last Toyota lines basically last forever.
I appreciate the info, but coolant and oil leaks are the least of my problems if the car won't run well anyway. Then I can't use it whether or not the leaks are fixed in the first place, so my priorities are fixing the hesitation..
Which I have good news & bad news. I picked up the O2 sensor this morning and installed it and put new clamps on all of the air-intake hosing & checked for cracks in the hosing. The car drove WAY better than it has been - Nothing is wrong, and it's not throwing any air intake related codes; but it IS throwing P0300, P0301, P0303 & P0305 still.
I've already mentioned but there's brand new Denso OEM Plugs in the car, new Coils & Wires. What else could be causing P0300?
This link has 4 pages. I selected page 2 as possibly your set up based on seeing 23275A - VALVE, VACUUM CONTROL (purple) in your engine picture and only shown on page 2. I believe that website has the ability to input your vin (I have not used that feature) - maybe narrow down the specific schematic for you
General comment
Use the Lexus repair manual to aid in diagnosing and fixing. It literally gives you a flow chart on each of the engines trouble codes along with testing components and systems criteria https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo...a.com%3A443%2F
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STANDARD - 2 day or MONTHLY
Others have mentioned ALLDATA
MAF reading at idle specification - Idling: 3.3 ∼ 4.7 gm/sec. - You noted 0.80LB/min. This converts to 6.05 gm/sec which is out of spec
Last edited by fortitude; Mar 11, 2023 at 09:31 AM.
What I'm saying is, the car isn't my daily driver. It doesn't sit & leak anything. It only leaks when it's being driven or has been driven & then parked. When it's sitting there, it doesn't leak. When it does leak, it only leaks a certain amount and stops. It's not a constant leak, i.e; I park it and leave it overnight and every drop of coolant has left the vehicle, same with oil. I can always keep adding oil/coolant in the meantime even if that was the case; but it's not.
I'm not ignoring your advice, I'm saying that I'd like to get the car to have drivability before moving onto coolant & oil leaks. To me, it seems redundant to fix a coolant & oil leak that only exists when the cars on the road; but not be able to take the car on the road successfully due to acceleration hesitation. At that point wouldnt I just be throwing money into a car that I don't plan on taking on the road anyway? I was planning on just taking it to a shop for those leaking problems, but if it was something that I could consider doing myself I would do it after getting suggestions here.
I really shouldn't have to explain myself, I wasn't rude in the slightest. If your "out", then goodbye. Pretty immature.
Anyway, I'm thinking it's the Crankshaft/Camshaft Position Sensors may be going bad or is bad. I've heard that could cause P0300 & entire bank misfire.
That's definitely never been replaced. Either that, or I'll try putting back in the old coils and see what happens.
Cam/Crank Sensors
Fuel Injectors (Not fuel injectors, but I used OBD2 tool to test Fuel Pump, ON/OFF both came back as Successful.)
EGR Valve stuck open etc are all possibilites that I haven't diagnosed yet. (I used OBD2 tool to test EGR Valve, ON/OFF both came back as Successful.)
Uploaded a video of what my scan tool is reading. I cleared codes, disconnected battery and took it for a 3 mile-ish drive and this is the readings when I got back and parked idle.
Also all of the codes that came back. For a minute, the misfire codes were gone and it was only P0171. Now they're all back as you see.
I appreciate the info, but coolant and oil leaks are the least of my problems if the car won't run well anyway.
What is meant by "going backwards" is the fact that you are trying to fight each relatively insignificant issue separately, while ignoring a much bigger picture that is unfolding. The problems you have with oil and cooling system may not end up being some simple leak, they are likely a result of a much bigger problem with the engine, and no amount of new coils and sensors will grow your engine back together.
Originally Posted by AptNull
I'm saying that I'd like to get the car to have drivability before moving onto coolant & oil leaks. To me, it seems redundant to fix a coolant & oil leak that only exists when the cars on the road; but not be able to take the car on the road successfully due to acceleration hesitation. At that point wouldnt I just be throwing money into a car that I don't plan on taking on the road anyway? I was planning on just taking it to a shop for those leaking problems, but if it was something that I could consider doing myself I would do it after getting suggestions here.
Throwing tons of new parts before making sure that the core of an engine is fine and working, you may as well be throwing all that money into thin air if at some point you will come to a conclusion that it is the engine itself that's a goner and in need of a replacement.
Originally Posted by AptNull
Anyway, I'm thinking it's the Crankshaft/Camshaft Position Sensors may be going bad or is bad. I've heard that could cause P0300 & entire bank misfire.
That's definitely never been replaced. Either that, or I'll try putting back in the old coils and see what happens.
Yet from my point of view, I would strongly suggest to take a closer look at your new coils and even better wires. We are not just joking when we talk about how some brands matter, and that not all the parts are created equal, because we've been through it ourselves.
