Drag Strip Discussion about Lexus straight line racing on the 1/4 mile, 1/8 mile and top speed flats.

Drag newby, please help estimate 1/4 mile from 1/8 mile times

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Old 02-13-07, 12:23 PM
  #31  
caymandive
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Originally Posted by phatboyc
I see. Here is another crazy idea then. To rap your JoeZ pipe in some sort of heat insulator. I know the metal vs plastic inlet pipe has been discussed before. But some sort of fiberglass insulator sure couldn't hurt. Even if it's just when your engine is idling on the line and producing allot of heat. It would prevent the pipe to get to hot and in return get cooled quicker after take off. Right?

I see you guys removing your engine covers. Is this only to allow the cool down of the engines between runs? According to Lexus these are for proper air flow in the engine compartment. Notice any difference with it on/off for you run?
Leaving the engine covers on for proper airflow? I think the reason they are on there is because they insulate engine noise and look pretty. As far as insulating the JOEZ pipe I'm fairly certain that it wouldn't make a difference in IAT's. I believe it was tested in a thread over in IS300.net by dasgalloway. The incoming air rushes in so quickly that the temp of the pipe has no measurable effect on performance.
Old 02-13-07, 01:05 PM
  #32  
phatboyc
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Originally Posted by caymandive
The incoming air rushes in so quickly that the temp of the pipe has no measurable effect on performance.
I agree, perhaps not greatly affecting results. But it's impossible that none of the heat is absorbed by the air. Just doesn't make sense that if we pass air so fast in a metal tube it will not be cooled by the flow of air during 13.38 seconds. All I'm saying is perhaps a cheap application of ceramic based heat paint couldn't hurt. Do I get a maybe?
Old 02-13-07, 02:14 PM
  #33  
caymandive
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Check out this thread on IS300.net. Click Here

In response to your question about wrapping or ceramic coating the pipe

Dasgalloway on is300.net
"When launching @ WOT the engine bay is quickly "blown out" and IATs quickly drop to numbers comparable to stock or the JoeZ. Same on the highway, the 6* cruising difference became much smaller as soon as you gunned it, with all intakes getting very similar temperature deltas.

Engine bay temps:
Plastic pipes retain less heat than metal pipes. The JoeZ showed higher surface temps than the OEM plastic piece, but only by a small margin (2-4 degrees). Not enough to affect air temps any noticable amount."
Old 02-14-07, 10:00 AM
  #34  
phatboyc
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Good read. Thanks. Just my kind with hard facts and numbers. Where is the follow up with some dyno's and noise measurement he was talking about? Did some searches and couldn't find it.
Old 02-14-07, 10:05 AM
  #35  
caymandive
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I don't know what ever happened, but he never did follow up with dyno results. At least he did some preliminary tests for us.
Old 02-15-07, 09:33 AM
  #36  
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Default Another Not So Original Idea

Ok here is my last not so original idea to improve 1/4 mile times. Removing the front engine cover. The side ones doesn't matter but since they have to go off before the front. It would allow more air into the intake. Instead of passing through two small vents.

Same as this picture (but without the Blitz).
Old 02-15-07, 09:59 AM
  #37  
Gernby
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Originally Posted by phatboyc
Ok here is my last not so original idea to improve 1/4 mile times. Removing the front engine cover. The side ones doesn't matter but since they have to go off before the front. It would allow more air into the intake. Instead of passing through two small vents.

Same as this picture (but without the Blitz).
I'm not really understanding how the front engine trim panel could restrict flow to the OEM snorkel, but I can see how removing the trim panel could prevent the hood from sealing well (reducing air pressure in front of the radiator.
Old 02-15-07, 10:14 AM
  #38  
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The last few times I hit the track I did it with the engine covers off including that front piece. I don't know if it helped or not, but by looking at the design I would think it would help somewhat. Another reason to pull all the engine covers is that it should help cool things down a bit in between runs.
Old 02-15-07, 11:34 AM
  #39  
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Default Here is some pics.

Originally Posted by Gernby
I'm not really understanding how the front engine trim panel could restrict flow to the OEM snorkel, but I can see how removing the trim panel could prevent the hood from sealing well (reducing air pressure in front of the radiator.
Circle in blue is where the air has to pass through with the front panel. 3 grills (not 2, my bad) and the hood latch hole.


Here is where the air now can go through to get to the inlet snorkel.


But your right on the reduced air pressure in front of the radiator. The hood has a second horizontal rubber seal that sits down on this front panel right after the snorkel (you can see the dirt line in the first pic). Seems to also force the air through the snorkel and prevent it to go between the engine cover and hood.

Pros and cons on both setup. Hard to call isn't it?
Old 02-15-07, 11:41 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by caymandive
The last few times I hit the track I did it with the engine covers off including that front piece. I don't know if it helped or not, but by looking at the design I would think it would help somewhat. Another reason to pull all the engine covers is that it should help cool things down a bit in between runs.
So you didn't notice any benefits in 1/4 time eh. Humm.

As for the cooling period, I think only by removing the center cover can help. As the other panels do not cover the engine itself.
Old 02-15-07, 11:42 AM
  #41  
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I'd say there is more performance benefit to removing these engine covers.
Pros: Shed a few lbs, engine can cool off more effectively between runs, more airflow towards the snorkel inlet, etc.

Cons: more noise, radiator may not get as much cooling, not as pretty but who cares when you are at the track.

I really can't say for sure if there is any gain or not to be had removing these pieces as my last few trips to the 1/4 mile I had them off.

Last edited by caymandive; 02-15-07 at 11:46 AM.
Old 02-15-07, 11:44 AM
  #42  
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I guess I hadn't really examined that cover fully, but I see your point about the small vents. It alsmost seems like it would be beneficial to just cut the front half of the cover off, and leave the back half in place.
Old 02-15-07, 11:47 AM
  #43  
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I think where on to something guys. Lets manufacture a replacement piece out of carbon fiber at sell it for 100$ a pop.
Old 02-15-07, 11:48 AM
  #44  
tt061880
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Originally Posted by phatboyc
]

Here is where the air now can go through to get to the inlet snorkel.


But your right on the reduced air pressure in front of the radiator. The hood has a second horizontal rubber seal that sits down on this front panel right after the snorkel (you can see the dirt line in the first pic). Seems to also force the air through the snorkel and prevent it to go between the engine cover and hood.

Pros and cons on both setup. Hard to call isn't it?

if you remove that piece, your air snorkel will suck in hotter air than normal. That plastic piece act like a heat shield against the metal frame which gets hot. I have taken it off before and I can tell you it gets pretty hot.
Old 02-15-07, 11:51 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by tt061880
if you remove that piece, your air snorkel will suck in hotter air than normal. That plastic piece act like a heat shield against the metal frame which gets hot. I have taken it off before and I can tell you it gets pretty hot.
The hot metal frame won't cause any differences in IAT's. See my post #33 in this thread. Even the metal intake pipes that get hot don't affect performance. Air rushes in to quickly to be affected by this.

Last edited by caymandive; 02-15-07 at 11:56 AM.


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