E46CT

*List of parts used on my blog*

Hello! I realize there's probably tons of DIYs on this, possibly on Prius forums. But wanted to add my own simplified take on it. I like to show efficient/cheaper ways of doing things, while maintaining excellent quality. I hope this encourages those to DIY. Just use common sense and be safe. If you don't feel comfortable undertaking an oil change, definitely ask a friend for help or see a mechanic. But really, it's easy! Just go slow and don't strip the oil drain plug. Also for those who want, you can modify your oil filter housing as someone posted earlier to accept the newer style 16+ Prius, 18+ Corolla style metal oil filters.

I purchased my car with 40,000 miles on it. Dealer said they did an oil change but I do not think so. You be the judge. The filter did look pretty good and a peak inside the valve cover looks clean. The oil looks as if it has about 8-10k miles on it. Peace of mind! I plan on changing the oil around every 7,000 miles or so. I may invest in an ***to make things even simpler. Or even relocate the oil filter to the top of the engine for a double-whammy simplification. Never need to lift the car again!

Anywho...

I purchased literally everything on Amazon. Got everything to my door the next day. Too easy lol. What you'll need:

1) Oil. I used Castrol 020 Not only is this oil the cheapest, there's a video series on youtube showing this oil has the best protection for high temp metal to metal contact. Beating out expensive oils. Win/win. This engine calls for 4.2 quarts. This jug is $20 (price can fluctuate) for a 5 quart container. So you'll have some left over.

2) Oil filter.

3) o rings for oil pan

You should have all these things. But if not, here's the tools:

Ratchet with 14mm socket and 10mm socket (14mm for drain plug and 10mm for bottom oil pan cover)

Oil filter socket

Flat tip screwdriver (For little clip that retains oil filter housing--makes things easier if you remove it)

Ramps

Drain pan to catch the oil

Funnel

Gloves


Drive car onto ramps. The electric motor makes this smooth. Put car in EV mode!


Perfect. Set parking brake! Place extra wheel/support/jackstand under car for extra layer of safety.


Pull dipstick out a few inches and remove oil cap and set aside. This just helps the oil drain faster. Probably not necessary but good habit.


The three main ingredients. Oil, filter, o-rings. Don't forget all three.


Remove the 10mm screws around the perimeter of this square drain pan cover using a 10mm socket and ratchet. Be sure to reinstall the cover correctly after you are done.


Pic done for illustration purposes. Drain oil first. Then remove filter using the special tool. Remove silver retaining clip which stops oil filter housing unscrewing as you drive. Use a flat tip screwdriver to help squeeze the pin down to unlock it from its home. You may need to spread/bend that pin open slightly again when you reinstall because it tends to get bent out of shape upon removal.


Drain into pan. Make sure there's no old gasket remaining on the oil pan. Feel with your fingers. If you feel a raised lip, the old gasket is stuck and dried hard on the oil pan. You may need to (Gently) tap it sideways with a screwdriver.


While oil is draining, work on oil filter. Install new filter AND filter housing O-Ring (it comes with the filter inside the box). You'll need a small pick tool or tiny screwdriver to remove this old O-ring from the filter housing. Lube the new one with motor oil so the housing screws into place easily.

Button up the bottom. Ensure everything nice and snug. You can use torque specs if you want which is 27 lbs for the oil pan bolt. I just made sure it's nice and snug. I'm usually a stickler for torque specs, but not on a plastic oil pan. Just tighten it down, but no need to use superhero strength. Do what you are comfortable with.

Refill car with 4.2 quarts of oil.

Check dip stick, make sure the fill line is somewhere on or around the top dot.

List of parts used on my blog

gshadow325

Learned something new today. Not all belly pans are the same. Mine is different on my 13. No Belly pan just 3 clips to get the access door opened. I did add an awesome accessory to speed this up. A fumoto valve www.fumotousa.com I have them on all my cars except the mk7 GTI. That car is super easy oil change.

Great write up.

shadow1118

Dude this is a great write up. Have had bad luck with dealers lately so just going to be doing this myself now. Thank you.

E46CT

Thanks.. definitely worth doing it yourself. Especially with how cheap the oil is. This is the same oil I use on my Lexus IS200t as well.

Sfcyclist

Thanks for sharing! Great write up with links too!

I thought Mobil 1 at Walmart for around $22 was great deal.. this Castrol is even better and it's delivered too.. hard to resist that deal as a Prime member.

Only comment is I don't like ramps and prefer jack and stands. Love the CT lift points.

E46CT

I was thinking of using stands on the lift points where the pinch welds are... but the CT is new to me so was wondering if that front metal point towards the front-center of the car was a lift point to raise the car. Googled and couldn't find any info. It looks dense enough but not 100% sure. I did put a block of wood and a jackstand under the car just in case.

Like I said though... eventually i'd like to relocate the oil filter to the top. Then i'd never have to lift the car =)

Sfcyclist

I do my best not to use the pinch points to lift or support the car. I placed the jack stand on the CT on the sub-frame. The large pads on the Esco jack stands work great to distribute the load too.

The pinch weld location seems like an lazy engineer's way out. to provide a quick "safe" spot for consumers to use. European cars seem to do it right with a nice large pad to lift or place jack stands. The pinch points easily collapse from just a slightest lateral movement.

E46CT

I have a hockey puck type attachment for the pinch welds. Extremely stable. It's fairly heavy gauge triple layered sheet steel. Used it many times to lift my 3IS. I get what you mean though... never fond of the japanese style lift points. Just takes more care to use. I do like the BMW style though.. worked on many of my BMWs for over 10 years with them. But i've seen those bend too. Also the jack they come with tends to twist and fall as well. The japanese method is more stable for consumers in emergency situations.

cusco

i had my CT oil change done at 10K complimentary service. now it's 20K and it's time for oil change. i got the socket and tried it yesterday. after 4hrs, i still can't get the damn cap off. apparently someone at the lexus dealership didn't ready don't over torque the oil filter cap. it's stuck on there really good.

i even tried using my 20v dewalt 1/4" impact driver to try and loosen it, but it wouldn't budge. Any suggestions?

also, i notice the cap is plastic... is there an aluminium/ metal version available? i know they make them for the tundra, but not sure if they have something like that for the CT. thanks~

gshadow325

This may sound stupid but there is a little clip that prevents the cap from backing out that's needs to be bent back. Kind of like a anti back out thing. In this video it's on the bottom left. Silver looking thing. You also have the special wrench right??

gshadow325

forgot to link video

cusco

hi, thanks for the response. yes i have the special tool for the filter cap and saw the silver cilp and saw this video as well. i did notice the clip, but it's not blocking the filter cap tabs at all. there's still plenty of room before it touchs that silver clip.
unfortunately i don't have an impact wrench that powerful.. so going to swing by my buddy's place over the weekend to use his impact wrench to take out.

E46CT

Are you sure the cap is plastic? Seemed metal to me. There is a conversion you can do using 14+ corolla parts which converts the oil filter to the simpler spin on filter system and you can just use typical Corolla oil filters. You can use oil filters from other models too like the Camry which has more capacity.

The conversion is about $90 and is a direct bolt on. You have to remove the current contraption which is held on by a few bolts.

https://www.ptetra.com/blogs/blog/pr...ter-conversion

lexusrus

You need one of these breaker bars:




From Harbor Freight ..... There is currently a 20% OFF coupon too. Just to make sure you get the correct size, .5 vs .25 vs 3/8, and etc......

This tool will give you great mechanical advantage when removing stubborn bolts and such......

I have used this

E46CT

I'd be afraid of cracking the engine block applying such a heavy torque at an extreme angle using a breaker bar. The engine block is very thin. With an air/electric impact, it generates lots of powerful short bursts that should break the fastener free without having to apply a steady torque to it which could stress the block. Just my opinion