2017 Lexus CT200H - To HID kit or not.
08-16-17, 06:55 AM
#1
2017 Lexus CT200H - To HID kit or not.
Hey Guys,
Check out this fantastic and well written review by a 2017 Lexus CT200h owner that was on the fence about getting a XenonDepot H11 HID kit for his CT200h...
Review also compares XenonDepot HID bulbs to another brand of HID bulbs....
http://www.xenondepot.com/2017-ct200...bulbs-s/99.htm
Sneak Peek:
Please check out the review for more pictures and concluding thoughts.
Steve
Check out this fantastic and well written review by a 2017 Lexus CT200h owner that was on the fence about getting a XenonDepot H11 HID kit for his CT200h...
Review also compares XenonDepot HID bulbs to another brand of HID bulbs....
http://www.xenondepot.com/2017-ct200...bulbs-s/99.htm
Sneak Peek:
Please check out the review for more pictures and concluding thoughts.
Steve
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XenonDepot (08-22-17)
How did the relay harness work out for you?
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XenonDepot (08-22-17)
09-07-17, 04:07 PM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Care to elaborate?
Thanks to Halo for the great review- it was very helpful for me to decide on Xenon Depot for my HID kit. I've ordered the extreme kit, and while I'm waiting for it I'd like to hear what the 'issue' was, and if there is any wisdom for me ahead of time that will help me on the install to get the best results without discovering the issue again?
09-07-17, 04:15 PM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thanks to Halo for the great review- it was very helpful for me to decide on Xenon Depot for my HID kit. I've ordered the extreme kit, and while I'm waiting for it I'd like to hear what the 'issue' was, and if there is any wisdom for me ahead of time that will help me on the install to get the best results without discovering the issue again?
The issue was that, without harnesses, the headlights would fail to fire with the engine off. Flicking the headlight switch to "on" would cause the headlights to turn on, then flicker and turn off. It would take a second or even third ignition to work. This was also the case when starting the car at night with the switch set to auto. They would turn on and then off, and I'd have to reignite them. This is likely due to the thin stock wiring not providing enough current to fire my OEM Lexus Denso ballasts (from a different Lexus). I installed the Xenon Depot harnesses and the issue was fixed.
Will you have this issue with XD's ballasts? No idea, but be prepared to buy the harnesses. Long term use on the stock wiring can overheat and melt it.
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NCBuckeye (09-07-17)
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09-07-17, 04:17 PM
#8
Driver School Candidate
4300K is the OEM HID color, yes. 5000K is a cooler yellowish white, not pure white but a bit whiter. 6000K is where it starts to get a little blue. 4300K is the easiest on the eyes and the brightest.
09-07-17, 04:46 PM
#9
Driver School Candidate
Sure thing. I think you'll be happy with the XD kit. I'm not just some dude, I am pretty well versed in lighting. While HID kits are not ideal, for the CT a quality kit isn't a bad idea at all. XD is a quality kit 100%.
The issue was that, without harnesses, the headlights would fail to fire with the engine off. Flicking the headlight switch to "on" would cause the headlights to turn on, then flicker and turn off. It would take a second or even third ignition to work. This was also the case when starting the car at night with the switch set to auto. They would turn on and then off, and I'd have to reignite them. This is likely due to the thin stock wiring not providing enough current to fire my OEM Lexus Denso ballasts (from a different Lexus). I installed the Xenon Depot harnesses and the issue was fixed.
Will you have this issue with XD's ballasts? No idea, but be prepared to buy the harnesses. Long term use on the stock wiring can overheat and melt it.
The issue was that, without harnesses, the headlights would fail to fire with the engine off. Flicking the headlight switch to "on" would cause the headlights to turn on, then flicker and turn off. It would take a second or even third ignition to work. This was also the case when starting the car at night with the switch set to auto. They would turn on and then off, and I'd have to reignite them. This is likely due to the thin stock wiring not providing enough current to fire my OEM Lexus Denso ballasts (from a different Lexus). I installed the Xenon Depot harnesses and the issue was fixed.
Will you have this issue with XD's ballasts? No idea, but be prepared to buy the harnesses. Long term use on the stock wiring can overheat and melt it.
09-07-17, 05:16 PM
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thanks again. I can tell you know more than most about this. I think the Xtreme kit includes a relay, but it seemed like most didn't use it? I haven't looked into what a relay does yet, but isn't the idea to pull power from the battery directly? I don't want to use if it if it really isn't neccesary, but sure don't like the idea of overheating the wires either, and definitely want to do things once and correctly. Would love to hear Steve's input on this too.
Even the Xtreme ballasts work, I'd use a relay. The stock wiring is real thin, and if it can't handle OEM ballasts, I'm sure a quality ballast will stress it. Stress on wires is basically heat due to resistance. No bueno. I'd use them if it were me, and I did! My other car runs modded Hella Gen 3 ballasts that are 35W but do 55W on demand and the stock wiring could handle it. I installed a relay harness anyway.
Installation of the harness is real easy. I can post pics for you if you'd like! You're right, the idea is bypassing the stock wiring and pulling power directly from the battery, using the stock plugs as triggers for the relay to turn on. When I told Steve about my issue with the CT, he recommended the harnesses.
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NCBuckeye (09-07-17)
09-07-17, 05:42 PM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Even the Xtreme ballasts work, I'd use a relay.
Installation of the harness is real easy. I can post pics for you if you'd like! You're right, the idea is bypassing the stock wiring and pulling power directly from the battery, using the stock plugs as triggers for the relay to turn on. When I told Steve about my issue with the CT, he recommended the harnesses.
09-07-17, 10:30 PM
#12
Driver School Candidate
Here's the write up I did for my build thread on a different forum:
I ran the two power wires to the fuse box power feed (one shown). Interestingly, on the CT the main power feed bolt is hidden by this elaborate clipped in swing out door. I couldn't find it for quite a while! So this will be hidden by a cover and the wires running down will be covered halfway down the fuse box.
I bought these adhesive zip tie bases to route wiring easier, since the CT is pretty packed but no wiring actually runs along the radiator support. They're amazing and I'm in love.
First harness installed. Relay bolted to the fuse box mount and all the wiring from the harness and bulb zip tied into a bundle and stuck to the face of the relay.
I ran the ground up underneath/alongside the fuse box to a metal bracket bolted to the chassis. I had it running above the fuse box mount, but I had to go back and hide it better for my own sanity.
Passenger side power wire was routed underneath inside the rad support with the adhesive mounts, completely invisible. Relay was mounted to the only flat part on the passenger side. Since the relays are potted I'm not worried about water intrusion, plus the engine bay is sealed shockingly well. I zip tied the bundle of wires and adhered them inside the rad support, you can see a bit of it through a hole.
I ran the ground to a factory ground and used an adhesive mount to keep the wire from ever touching the coolant hose.
Done! Even without the plastics on, the install is invisible. The plastics cover whatever clues there could be.
I ran the two power wires to the fuse box power feed (one shown). Interestingly, on the CT the main power feed bolt is hidden by this elaborate clipped in swing out door. I couldn't find it for quite a while! So this will be hidden by a cover and the wires running down will be covered halfway down the fuse box.
I bought these adhesive zip tie bases to route wiring easier, since the CT is pretty packed but no wiring actually runs along the radiator support. They're amazing and I'm in love.
First harness installed. Relay bolted to the fuse box mount and all the wiring from the harness and bulb zip tied into a bundle and stuck to the face of the relay.
I ran the ground up underneath/alongside the fuse box to a metal bracket bolted to the chassis. I had it running above the fuse box mount, but I had to go back and hide it better for my own sanity.
Passenger side power wire was routed underneath inside the rad support with the adhesive mounts, completely invisible. Relay was mounted to the only flat part on the passenger side. Since the relays are potted I'm not worried about water intrusion, plus the engine bay is sealed shockingly well. I zip tied the bundle of wires and adhered them inside the rad support, you can see a bit of it through a hole.
I ran the ground to a factory ground and used an adhesive mount to keep the wire from ever touching the coolant hose.
Done! Even without the plastics on, the install is invisible. The plastics cover whatever clues there could be.
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09-08-17, 05:50 PM
#15
Driver School Candidate
But from what I've been told, the adhesive on them sucks. They'll fail. This will happen to me eventually. What I'd do BEFORE installing them is rip off the foam adhesive and replace it with 3M mounting tape: