CharlesCA

I decided to add some sound deadening to the doors. I don't have any objective data but I would say they helped decrease road noise, improve door shutting sound and improve stock speaker sound quality. It was very easy to install.

I used Noico 80 mil and 18sq ft was more than enough to cover the the front and rear doors with about 25-50% coverage, with plenty left over. According to what I read, 25% coverage is all you really need.
Overall I am pretty happy and it was simple to install.

Before/after and how-to:

USLEX

Great vid! To be honest I can't tell much difference from the sound in your vid though. Glad you are happy with the results however.

tofuprod

I thought the CT rode pretty smoothly and quietly as it is, but that just may be all my current and vehicles have been rough (lol).

Thanks for sharing, I may look to do this myself.

gshadow325

You took great time to make the video. Kudos.

I'd disagree with only 25% coverage will suffice. Going with your observations, you said didn't notice much of a difference. Probably because you used so little. It is also important on how it was applied. It is very important the type of material used. Butyl is good for vibrations such as door closing but does nothing for acoustics and road noise suppression. You need sound dampening material that has acoustical suppression properties​.

Another issue you might not even be aware of, is how much water will this retain? Will this mildew and mold since it is in the door. Will it absorb moisture?

Surface prep is also a big issue since with out it there installation is useless if it doesn't adhere properly.

did you remove the vapor barrier? Was that replaced?

Did you remove the foam block that is attached in each door?

In my experience, you would need to do a proper job with proper material approx 12 square feet per door. It would be best in getting a material that has a proper buytl backing and also acustical foam. It is usually around 180 mil thickness. You would need to apply it completely to the outer door skin, remove the vapor barrier, apply a second layer in its place and the final layer is on the back side of the actual door panel. That's where you would use 12 square feet. This is also where you would realize the difference in $35 for 18sq ft and $129 for 11sq ft. When you remove your door panel after a 115 degree day in the hot Arizona sun. Will your sound dampening material still be stuck on the door? Or will it be a hot glob of gory gooey mess in the bottom of the door skin? The cold effects these materials in a different way but the end result is the same.... Ends up at the bottom of the door.

Things to consider before jumping in on this blindly.
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CharlesCA

Try using headphones. There should be considerably less echo/tinny sound between the before and after.

My goal was to remove the tinny sound from the doors. It also helped sound but I did all the doors at once. I can't prove there is less road noise and better speaker sound but basing upon other people's tests on youtube, there is a difference.

Since this is material that is meant to go into car doors, and is similar material as Dynamat which goes into the same locations, I am going to say no mildew or mold.

As the video mentions, clean with rubbing alcohol.

I did not remove the vapor barrier. As the video mentions, removing the speaker gives you access to almost the entire door panel. I don't have long arms and I could reach all but the absolute far corners.

I don't recall any foam block being in the way.

The material I chose is similar to Dynamat but at less cost. The product has 4.6/5 stars on amazon after rate correction: https://reviewmeta.com/amazon/B012B5EMGO . My budget was not hundreds of dollars. If at some point in time I am willing to spend more $$$ then doing all of the things you suggest might be more appropriate. The material I chose is not known to fall off in the cold or heat. But for me and my music listening style (rarely turned up loud) I am happy with the results.

USLEX

CharlesCA:
Let me correct myself, I can't tell much of a difference from the inside. Thanks for the effort again in making this video. I have done the same with a Dynamat material type in the past on an '05 Prius on the doors but not the floor. Better but still not Lexus quiet I am used to.

ct200hot

Other than sound deadening, does this material also insulate the car? Does your car feel cooler during hot days and warmer during cold days? I would really consider doing it if it does sound deadening and insulate the car.

gshadow325

You know that's a real interesting question.

Here's what I know about my car. You're scenario might be different
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my car has the following done.
55% tint on whole windshield
20% front two
5% rears
77 square feet of sounds skins sound proofing. 3 layers on each door, double on all the floors, under the rear seat and rear hatch area.

On several drives up and down the East coast last summer on board computer said it is 86 degrees outside and I had my air on auto at 76 and the kids in the back was complaining it was cold.

I know on my 4 runner I removed the passenger side exhaust heat shield and the passenger floor got hot. I put this down on that side and it kept the heat down. That's just my observations.

ct200hot

So it's possible that it also insulate the car. Did you put this material in your roof?

Clutchless

When I added sound deadening to my 2012 I found that the paint on deadener that I used inside the wheel wells (under the liner) made the most difference especially in the front for reducing engine noise. In front you only need to do the back halves as that is all you can really coat. You need to do several coats to build up enough thickness. Products like Spraydead are similar to what I used, as I cannot recall the brand name. I may have posted about it a few years ago when I still owned the car.
I also installed Raamat in the rear hatch floor and sides and front doors which helped reduce road noise.

There is no reason to put sound deadener in your roof, it would not reduced wind noise. Plus removing and re-installing the liner would be a royal PITA. You want to stop road, engine and tire noise and reduce vibrations in metal panels. Thus focus on floor and doors and wheel wells.

ct200hot

Thanks for the info. I understood what you are saying but you didn't get my point. I was asking if the sound deadening layers not only does sound deadening but also insulate the car from heat and cold. If it does both, I have more reasons to apply the sound deadening layers on my car. Apply sound deadening layers on the roof may not do much for reducing cabin noise but will definitely will help with temperature.

There are advantages to insulate the ct200h hybrid. First, heat reduce the life of hybrid battery. If the car is insulated, it should reduce the temperature in the car while the car is parked. Second, the AC and heat run on the hybrid battery. If the car is insulated, the AC and heat should work more efficiently and use less juice from the hybrid battery, hence more juice for the drive motor and may even increase MPG.

gshadow325

To the average joe that doesnt work on cars everyday, yes removing the headliner is a PITA
To the average joe that doesnt install sound deadening at least once a week, then there is no reason why do it to the roof.

From the guy that installs sound dampening material at least once a week. I would put it on any fixed panel you can get to.
but what do i know. I'm just a keyboard warrior LOL