Protecting Chrome OEM rims in winter
05-19-17, 01:11 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Protecting Chrome OEM rims in winter
I was kicking around the idea of chroming my stock 19 F-Sport rims on my GS. I have been putting on my 20s in the summer and stocks in the winter, but have really been enjoying the smooth stock ride of the 19s. I live in NJ, so salt in the winter months can get crazy, is there any heavy coat of wax that I can use to put on the chromes so I can drive in the winter months and avoid pitting.
And yes, I have had black cars with chrome rims going on 17 years now and still enjoy the classic shine with the fresh black paint and chrome spinning. Let me know if any products exist.
And yes, I have had black cars with chrome rims going on 17 years now and still enjoy the classic shine with the fresh black paint and chrome spinning. Let me know if any products exist.
05-19-17, 04:45 PM
#2
Lexus Fanatic
Most of the pitting that takes place on paint and trim is not due to salt, but to the sand and abrasives that are mixed in with the salt for traction. Salt can be washed or rinsed off before it does any real corrosion damage.....abrasives can't. The more they hit the car when kicked up by tires, the more damage they are likely to do. That's why, in the Northeast, many people with nice cars don't drive them at all in the winter....or during and soon after winter storms.
05-19-17, 05:07 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Gotcha, I never really had issues with the body or trim on the cars I've driven through winter, was just worried about the chrome on the wheels...maybe if washed right after driving I'll be good?
05-19-17, 06:36 PM
#4
Lexus Fanatic
05-19-17, 08:15 PM
#5
Mike I have to disagree with you on this one.
If you have ever been to Colorado or have seen a Colorado vehicle that was used during winters for several years, they don't have any corrosion on chrome wheels or any corrosion or rust at all on the underbody. This is because they use sand and other abrasives to control the roads during the winters. They don't use road salt and other harsh chemicals that we get in the rust belt.
Colorado and other norhwestern states that get snow up in the mountains are all good places to buy a used older car. Although obviously not as good as getting it from a state that has a completely dry and warm climate.
The main disadvantage to using sand in the winter is that is does pit the splash zones of the vehicle. Mainly the lower rocker panels, the areas behind the front and rear wheel wells and the front end if you follow cars too closely at higher speeds. This is why Colorado has such a huge PPF market for people that want to protect their paint. Getting mud flaps helps a ton in this regard.
Wheels don't see the same pitting, so abrasives getting blasted onto the chrome would not speed up the deterioration process of the finish because chrome is an extremely hard surface that is resistant to abrasion.
Ever try to scuff or sand down a chrome surface? Not fun, not gonna happen unless you really get down to a low grit (under 100) sandpaper. Ever try to sand blast or media blast a chrome finish? That ain't happening either because the chrome is so abrasion resistant. You would need to use such coarse media and pressure feed sand blaster with large air compressor to get through the chrome that you would badly pit the aluminum surface underneath. Siphon feed sand blasters would take forever to get the job done. This is why powder coaters and other chrome refinishing services chemically strip chrome with an acid product.
Chrome damage on wheels is directly linked to salt and chemicals like sodium chloride, NOT abrasives. Brake dust that sits on the chrome for years and doesn't see proper maintenance and cleaning can also quickly etch into the finish and permanently ruin the chrome finish. Fix-a-flat tire products will cause the chrome to peel from the inside of the wheel if left for prolonged periods of time. This is why you sometimes see southern cars with peeling chrome while the rest of the vehicle might be perfectly rust and corrosion free.
If you have ever been to Colorado or have seen a Colorado vehicle that was used during winters for several years, they don't have any corrosion on chrome wheels or any corrosion or rust at all on the underbody. This is because they use sand and other abrasives to control the roads during the winters. They don't use road salt and other harsh chemicals that we get in the rust belt.
Colorado and other norhwestern states that get snow up in the mountains are all good places to buy a used older car. Although obviously not as good as getting it from a state that has a completely dry and warm climate.
The main disadvantage to using sand in the winter is that is does pit the splash zones of the vehicle. Mainly the lower rocker panels, the areas behind the front and rear wheel wells and the front end if you follow cars too closely at higher speeds. This is why Colorado has such a huge PPF market for people that want to protect their paint. Getting mud flaps helps a ton in this regard.
Wheels don't see the same pitting, so abrasives getting blasted onto the chrome would not speed up the deterioration process of the finish because chrome is an extremely hard surface that is resistant to abrasion.
Ever try to scuff or sand down a chrome surface? Not fun, not gonna happen unless you really get down to a low grit (under 100) sandpaper. Ever try to sand blast or media blast a chrome finish? That ain't happening either because the chrome is so abrasion resistant. You would need to use such coarse media and pressure feed sand blaster with large air compressor to get through the chrome that you would badly pit the aluminum surface underneath. Siphon feed sand blasters would take forever to get the job done. This is why powder coaters and other chrome refinishing services chemically strip chrome with an acid product.
Chrome damage on wheels is directly linked to salt and chemicals like sodium chloride, NOT abrasives. Brake dust that sits on the chrome for years and doesn't see proper maintenance and cleaning can also quickly etch into the finish and permanently ruin the chrome finish. Fix-a-flat tire products will cause the chrome to peel from the inside of the wheel if left for prolonged periods of time. This is why you sometimes see southern cars with peeling chrome while the rest of the vehicle might be perfectly rust and corrosion free.
05-19-17, 08:21 PM
#6
Lexus Fanatic
Mike I have to disagree with you on this one.
If you have ever been to Colorado or have seen a Colorado vehicle that was used during winters for several years, they don't have any corrosion on chrome wheels or any corrosion or rust at all on the underbody. This is because they use sand and other abrasives to control the roads during the winters. They don't use road salt and other harsh chemicals that we get in the rust belt.
If you have ever been to Colorado or have seen a Colorado vehicle that was used during winters for several years, they don't have any corrosion on chrome wheels or any corrosion or rust at all on the underbody. This is because they use sand and other abrasives to control the roads during the winters. They don't use road salt and other harsh chemicals that we get in the rust belt.
Brake dust that sits on the chrome for years and doesn't see proper maintenance and cleaning can also quickly etch into the finish and permanently ruin the chrome finish.
Chrome damage on wheels is directly linked to salt and chemicals like sodium chloride, NOT abrasives.
Last edited by mmarshall; 05-19-17 at 08:30 PM.
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05-19-17, 08:44 PM
#8
To answer the OP's question, if you really want to drive around with nice chrome wheels in a NJ winter, there are some products that would help protect the surface.
Regular car wax is not going to do it. You need a clear undercoating type product to do the trick. But it's not going to look pretty.
Look at these three (we've spent months researching pretty much everything that's available to the general public and these 3 seem to be a very safe bet). I personally have used these products on my vehicles in various areas to protect the finish.
Fluid Film (AS/NAS): this is a wet undercoating product that never cures and is absolutely amazing at protecting all exposed metal areas of the vehicle. It is marketed to be used as an undercoating to save the frame from rotting and all other suspension components/engine bay/body cavities, etc. A ton of guys use this product to spray their trucks once or twice a year (fall and spring), especially the Tacoma owners that were plagued with cheap DANA build frames that had the notorious recall. You can get either the aerosol can or the gallon and apply with a spray gun. It's got a very slight yellowish tint to it, but mostly clear. The heavier the coat, the more yellow it will look. If applied like a wax with a waxing pad, it should be very clear and almost invisible. The only downside is that because it is a wet lube/coating/penetrant, it will attract some dust and whatnot and wipes off easily because it never hardens. If used on wheels or chrome bumpers, you would need to reapply every time after you thoroughly clean your wheels. If left untouched, it should very easily last an entire winter season. On my old daily driver car that I did not care about at all and mainly used as a test object for these products, I went an entire winter without washing the car once. I had FF applied on the wheels and lower sections of the car and although the paint didn't look pretty, you can clearly tell the FF was still on there and doing it's job. FF doesn't have great UV protection so it's much more suited for areas that don't get a ton of sun exposure, but with frequent application should still do a phenomenal job of protecting the chrome.
Boeshield T9: Similar to FF, but it is more clear and has solvents in the formula. This coating cures dry. The formula of T9 is interesting because it is also an amazing penetrant and dry chain lube. It takes a while for the solvents to fully evaporate and leave a dry coating. If you spray a heavy coat and leave it indoors without air circulation, it could take weeks to dry. This is great if you're applying it over a chassis that has some light surface rust to really penetrate the metal and slow down/stop the rust from spreading and getting worse. This coating is completely waterproof. If applied with a wax applicator in a thin coat, it will dry very quickly and leave behind a clean and almost completely invisible layer. For thicker coats, just put an air fan on it to accelerate the curing process or leave the parts in some place with good ventilation for a few days. T9 comes in aerosol can form and gallon sizes to use with spray gun (which I recommend because the spray pattern is very tight in the aerosol can and many people report having issue with the rattle cans. I na spray gun, you can control the spray pattern and it sprays out amazing). Same this as FF, this is a 1-2 year product depending on how heavy a coat you put on. T9 from the various tests seen online, has better UV protection than FF. Once fully cured, T9 can't be wiped off unless you use a solvent product or reapply more T9 to soften the cured first layer.
Amsoil Metal Protector HD (MPHD): This is the most durable coating of the three here. It only comes in an aerosol can. It leaves behind an amber finish (the heavier the coat the more amber it looks). If applied with a wax applicator, it will go on clear but leave behind a dull look that is very similar to how car wax hazes up and has streaks. Not the prettiest finish, but will do an amazing job at protecting chrome and other metal surfaces. This coating dries completely dry very quickly (even a heavy coat will cure in about 24 hours). MPHD is the most resistant of the three when it comes to pressure washing and other chemicals (for instance if you wash your wheels with a brush and sponge/mitt during normal cleaning routine). Even heavy scrubbing won't get it off. To remove the coating you need either a light solvent and it wipes right off, or to spray it with Fluid Film and it softens up in a few minutes to the point where you can wipe it off with a rag.
Hope that helps.
Regular car wax is not going to do it. You need a clear undercoating type product to do the trick. But it's not going to look pretty.
Look at these three (we've spent months researching pretty much everything that's available to the general public and these 3 seem to be a very safe bet). I personally have used these products on my vehicles in various areas to protect the finish.
Fluid Film (AS/NAS): this is a wet undercoating product that never cures and is absolutely amazing at protecting all exposed metal areas of the vehicle. It is marketed to be used as an undercoating to save the frame from rotting and all other suspension components/engine bay/body cavities, etc. A ton of guys use this product to spray their trucks once or twice a year (fall and spring), especially the Tacoma owners that were plagued with cheap DANA build frames that had the notorious recall. You can get either the aerosol can or the gallon and apply with a spray gun. It's got a very slight yellowish tint to it, but mostly clear. The heavier the coat, the more yellow it will look. If applied like a wax with a waxing pad, it should be very clear and almost invisible. The only downside is that because it is a wet lube/coating/penetrant, it will attract some dust and whatnot and wipes off easily because it never hardens. If used on wheels or chrome bumpers, you would need to reapply every time after you thoroughly clean your wheels. If left untouched, it should very easily last an entire winter season. On my old daily driver car that I did not care about at all and mainly used as a test object for these products, I went an entire winter without washing the car once. I had FF applied on the wheels and lower sections of the car and although the paint didn't look pretty, you can clearly tell the FF was still on there and doing it's job. FF doesn't have great UV protection so it's much more suited for areas that don't get a ton of sun exposure, but with frequent application should still do a phenomenal job of protecting the chrome.
Boeshield T9: Similar to FF, but it is more clear and has solvents in the formula. This coating cures dry. The formula of T9 is interesting because it is also an amazing penetrant and dry chain lube. It takes a while for the solvents to fully evaporate and leave a dry coating. If you spray a heavy coat and leave it indoors without air circulation, it could take weeks to dry. This is great if you're applying it over a chassis that has some light surface rust to really penetrate the metal and slow down/stop the rust from spreading and getting worse. This coating is completely waterproof. If applied with a wax applicator in a thin coat, it will dry very quickly and leave behind a clean and almost completely invisible layer. For thicker coats, just put an air fan on it to accelerate the curing process or leave the parts in some place with good ventilation for a few days. T9 comes in aerosol can form and gallon sizes to use with spray gun (which I recommend because the spray pattern is very tight in the aerosol can and many people report having issue with the rattle cans. I na spray gun, you can control the spray pattern and it sprays out amazing). Same this as FF, this is a 1-2 year product depending on how heavy a coat you put on. T9 from the various tests seen online, has better UV protection than FF. Once fully cured, T9 can't be wiped off unless you use a solvent product or reapply more T9 to soften the cured first layer.
Amsoil Metal Protector HD (MPHD): This is the most durable coating of the three here. It only comes in an aerosol can. It leaves behind an amber finish (the heavier the coat the more amber it looks). If applied with a wax applicator, it will go on clear but leave behind a dull look that is very similar to how car wax hazes up and has streaks. Not the prettiest finish, but will do an amazing job at protecting chrome and other metal surfaces. This coating dries completely dry very quickly (even a heavy coat will cure in about 24 hours). MPHD is the most resistant of the three when it comes to pressure washing and other chemicals (for instance if you wash your wheels with a brush and sponge/mitt during normal cleaning routine). Even heavy scrubbing won't get it off. To remove the coating you need either a light solvent and it wipes right off, or to spray it with Fluid Film and it softens up in a few minutes to the point where you can wipe it off with a rag.
Hope that helps.
05-19-17, 08:50 PM
#9
Lexus Fanatic
To answer the OP's question, if you really want to drive around with nice chrome wheels in a NJ winter, there are some products that would help protect the surface.
Regular car wax is not going to do it. You need a clear undercoating type product to do the trick. But it's not going to look pretty.
Regular car wax is not going to do it. You need a clear undercoating type product to do the trick. But it's not going to look pretty.
It has a long-standing reputation of providing good protection, especially back in the days before clearcoating. The flip side, of course, was its expense....it has to be imported from Brazil, the only country what produces the carnauba tree.
05-19-17, 09:00 PM
#10
What do you think of Carnauba wax? It has a long-standing reputation of providing good protection, especially back in the days before clearcoating. The flip side, of course, was its expense....it has to be imported from Brazil, the only country what produces the carnauba tree.
It has a long-standing reputation of providing good protection, especially back in the days before clearcoating. The flip side, of course, was its expense....it has to be imported from Brazil, the only country what produces the carnauba tree.The industry shifted to using paint sealants a long time ago, which are essentially a longer lasting, synthetic wax that was easier to apply and remove and lasted longer (4-6 mos vs 2-3mos with a wax).
Now, even paint sealants are more of an "in between washes" kind of product, because the industry has shifted to using paint protection coatings (ceramic) such as Opti-Coat, CQuartz, Modesta, 22PLE, Gtechniq, etc. These are essentially a very thin (much thinner than your oem clearcoat) secondary clearcoat that cures extremely hard and has the same properties of a wax but are chemical resistant and can only be removed with abrasive polishing (or sanding in some cases with some of these brands). These coatings can last between 2-7 years and are a much better investment than getting your car waxed 2-3 times a year like back in the old days.
The only advantage a carnauba wax has is it leaves the paint with the slick feeling, until the first couple washes of course. I know a ton of old school guys still use carnauba before car shows and whatnot or if you simply prefer the paint to feel slick, but aside from that, waxes are dinosour-era products in today's market.
The only wax I remember that was popular to use for winter time were the Collinite 845 and 476S that were commonly known to be the most durable carnauba waxes. They are still used today and have their fair share of fans, but they are no match to ceramic coatings or a true undercoating product like the three mentioned above.
05-19-17, 09:07 PM
#11
OP, I want to note that if you get your chrome wheels ceramic coated, then do not put anything on top. I've tried the three metal protectant products (FF, T9, MPHD) on top of ceramic coated surfaces and the application is just not right. The ceramic coating will try to resist the metal coatings and will make it bead up a bit (as it should). Ceramic coatings are designed to prevent and minimize anything from sticking to them and to make clean up very easy (brake dust still sticks although washes off super easy with no need for wheel cleaners if washed routinely).
05-19-17, 10:10 PM
#12
Just clean them a lot in the winter would be my suggestion. Also make sure that whoever does the chrome plating knows what they are doing, don't go with the lowball offer. Chrome plating stuff now days is EXPENSIVE due to the EPA really cracking down on chrome shops, the heavy metals and toxic waste they produce is pretty nasty stuff.
I detailed cars back in high school/college, 2003/2004ish. Back then the big chrome plated rims on your SUV was the thing, 20's, 22's, or if you were really balling, 24's. The chrome finish on those aftermarket wheels, for the most part, was absolute junk. Wasn't that shiny, wavy chrome, main thing I saw was the chrome finish peeling or delaminating. And most of those wheels with junk finish were not cheap, they were name brand stuff like Lexani, etc
I detailed cars back in high school/college, 2003/2004ish. Back then the big chrome plated rims on your SUV was the thing, 20's, 22's, or if you were really balling, 24's. The chrome finish on those aftermarket wheels, for the most part, was absolute junk. Wasn't that shiny, wavy chrome, main thing I saw was the chrome finish peeling or delaminating. And most of those wheels with junk finish were not cheap, they were name brand stuff like Lexani, etc
05-19-17, 10:48 PM
#13
Lexus Fanatic
I would suggest you look into PVD chrome. Looks like chrome, but it's really a powdercoar type product with clear cost. Won't be any different than your painted wheels.
www.
detroitwheelandtire.com
www.
detroitwheelandtire.com
05-20-17, 04:47 AM
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
I would suggest you look into PVD chrome. Looks like chrome, but it's really a powdercoar type product with clear cost. Won't be any different than your painted wheels.
www.
detroitwheelandtire.com
www.
detroitwheelandtire.com
05-20-17, 04:48 AM
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
To answer the OP's question, if you really want to drive around with nice chrome wheels in a NJ winter, there are some products that would help protect the surface.
Regular car wax is not going to do it. You need a clear undercoating type product to do the trick. But it's not going to look pretty.
Look at these three (we've spent months researching pretty much everything that's available to the general public and these 3 seem to be a very safe bet). I personally have used these products on my vehicles in various areas to protect the finish.
Fluid Film (AS/NAS): this is a wet undercoating product that never cures and is absolutely amazing at protecting all exposed metal areas of the vehicle. It is marketed to be used as an undercoating to save the frame from rotting and all other suspension components/engine bay/body cavities, etc. A ton of guys use this product to spray their trucks once or twice a year (fall and spring), especially the Tacoma owners that were plagued with cheap DANA build frames that had the notorious recall. You can get either the aerosol can or the gallon and apply with a spray gun. It's got a very slight yellowish tint to it, but mostly clear. The heavier the coat, the more yellow it will look. If applied like a wax with a waxing pad, it should be very clear and almost invisible. The only downside is that because it is a wet lube/coating/penetrant, it will attract some dust and whatnot and wipes off easily because it never hardens. If used on wheels or chrome bumpers, you would need to reapply every time after you thoroughly clean your wheels. If left untouched, it should very easily last an entire winter season. On my old daily driver car that I did not care about at all and mainly used as a test object for these products, I went an entire winter without washing the car once. I had FF applied on the wheels and lower sections of the car and although the paint didn't look pretty, you can clearly tell the FF was still on there and doing it's job. FF doesn't have great UV protection so it's much more suited for areas that don't get a ton of sun exposure, but with frequent application should still do a phenomenal job of protecting the chrome.
Boeshield T9: Similar to FF, but it is more clear and has solvents in the formula. This coating cures dry. The formula of T9 is interesting because it is also an amazing penetrant and dry chain lube. It takes a while for the solvents to fully evaporate and leave a dry coating. If you spray a heavy coat and leave it indoors without air circulation, it could take weeks to dry. This is great if you're applying it over a chassis that has some light surface rust to really penetrate the metal and slow down/stop the rust from spreading and getting worse. This coating is completely waterproof. If applied with a wax applicator in a thin coat, it will dry very quickly and leave behind a clean and almost completely invisible layer. For thicker coats, just put an air fan on it to accelerate the curing process or leave the parts in some place with good ventilation for a few days. T9 comes in aerosol can form and gallon sizes to use with spray gun (which I recommend because the spray pattern is very tight in the aerosol can and many people report having issue with the rattle cans. I na spray gun, you can control the spray pattern and it sprays out amazing). Same this as FF, this is a 1-2 year product depending on how heavy a coat you put on. T9 from the various tests seen online, has better UV protection than FF. Once fully cured, T9 can't be wiped off unless you use a solvent product or reapply more T9 to soften the cured first layer.
Amsoil Metal Protector HD (MPHD): This is the most durable coating of the three here. It only comes in an aerosol can. It leaves behind an amber finish (the heavier the coat the more amber it looks). If applied with a wax applicator, it will go on clear but leave behind a dull look that is very similar to how car wax hazes up and has streaks. Not the prettiest finish, but will do an amazing job at protecting chrome and other metal surfaces. This coating dries completely dry very quickly (even a heavy coat will cure in about 24 hours). MPHD is the most resistant of the three when it comes to pressure washing and other chemicals (for instance if you wash your wheels with a brush and sponge/mitt during normal cleaning routine). Even heavy scrubbing won't get it off. To remove the coating you need either a light solvent and it wipes right off, or to spray it with Fluid Film and it softens up in a few minutes to the point where you can wipe it off with a rag.
Hope that helps.
Regular car wax is not going to do it. You need a clear undercoating type product to do the trick. But it's not going to look pretty.
Look at these three (we've spent months researching pretty much everything that's available to the general public and these 3 seem to be a very safe bet). I personally have used these products on my vehicles in various areas to protect the finish.
Fluid Film (AS/NAS): this is a wet undercoating product that never cures and is absolutely amazing at protecting all exposed metal areas of the vehicle. It is marketed to be used as an undercoating to save the frame from rotting and all other suspension components/engine bay/body cavities, etc. A ton of guys use this product to spray their trucks once or twice a year (fall and spring), especially the Tacoma owners that were plagued with cheap DANA build frames that had the notorious recall. You can get either the aerosol can or the gallon and apply with a spray gun. It's got a very slight yellowish tint to it, but mostly clear. The heavier the coat, the more yellow it will look. If applied like a wax with a waxing pad, it should be very clear and almost invisible. The only downside is that because it is a wet lube/coating/penetrant, it will attract some dust and whatnot and wipes off easily because it never hardens. If used on wheels or chrome bumpers, you would need to reapply every time after you thoroughly clean your wheels. If left untouched, it should very easily last an entire winter season. On my old daily driver car that I did not care about at all and mainly used as a test object for these products, I went an entire winter without washing the car once. I had FF applied on the wheels and lower sections of the car and although the paint didn't look pretty, you can clearly tell the FF was still on there and doing it's job. FF doesn't have great UV protection so it's much more suited for areas that don't get a ton of sun exposure, but with frequent application should still do a phenomenal job of protecting the chrome.
Boeshield T9: Similar to FF, but it is more clear and has solvents in the formula. This coating cures dry. The formula of T9 is interesting because it is also an amazing penetrant and dry chain lube. It takes a while for the solvents to fully evaporate and leave a dry coating. If you spray a heavy coat and leave it indoors without air circulation, it could take weeks to dry. This is great if you're applying it over a chassis that has some light surface rust to really penetrate the metal and slow down/stop the rust from spreading and getting worse. This coating is completely waterproof. If applied with a wax applicator in a thin coat, it will dry very quickly and leave behind a clean and almost completely invisible layer. For thicker coats, just put an air fan on it to accelerate the curing process or leave the parts in some place with good ventilation for a few days. T9 comes in aerosol can form and gallon sizes to use with spray gun (which I recommend because the spray pattern is very tight in the aerosol can and many people report having issue with the rattle cans. I na spray gun, you can control the spray pattern and it sprays out amazing). Same this as FF, this is a 1-2 year product depending on how heavy a coat you put on. T9 from the various tests seen online, has better UV protection than FF. Once fully cured, T9 can't be wiped off unless you use a solvent product or reapply more T9 to soften the cured first layer.
Amsoil Metal Protector HD (MPHD): This is the most durable coating of the three here. It only comes in an aerosol can. It leaves behind an amber finish (the heavier the coat the more amber it looks). If applied with a wax applicator, it will go on clear but leave behind a dull look that is very similar to how car wax hazes up and has streaks. Not the prettiest finish, but will do an amazing job at protecting chrome and other metal surfaces. This coating dries completely dry very quickly (even a heavy coat will cure in about 24 hours). MPHD is the most resistant of the three when it comes to pressure washing and other chemicals (for instance if you wash your wheels with a brush and sponge/mitt during normal cleaning routine). Even heavy scrubbing won't get it off. To remove the coating you need either a light solvent and it wipes right off, or to spray it with Fluid Film and it softens up in a few minutes to the point where you can wipe it off with a rag.
Hope that helps.
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