2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo X Hemi **JUNK**
04-01-11, 11:01 AM
#46
Lexus Fanatic
^ Thanks for the 2011 update, btw-what car is that (that would be helpful to know)?
fyi - Ford Explorer (4th generation) break-in procedure below since I think it was asked about earlier (and it gives some perspective on another major US automakers approach):
BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive
continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of
new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the
moving parts a chance to break in.
Drive your new vehicle at least 500 miles (800 km) before towing a
trailer. For more detailed information about towing a trailer, refer to
Trailer towing in the Tires, Wheels and Loading chapter.
Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since
these additives may prevent piston ring seating.
fyi - Ford Explorer (4th generation) break-in procedure below since I think it was asked about earlier (and it gives some perspective on another major US automakers approach):
BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive
continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of
new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the
moving parts a chance to break in.
Drive your new vehicle at least 500 miles (800 km) before towing a
trailer. For more detailed information about towing a trailer, refer to
Trailer towing in the Tires, Wheels and Loading chapter.
Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since
these additives may prevent piston ring seating.
Last edited by IS-SV; 04-01-11 at 11:05 AM.
04-01-11, 11:34 AM
#49
When we installed a new motor in a car built to be raced, it was broken in the exact same way we wanted to run it, as hard as possible...
I distinctly remember a car we put on the dyno - literally drove it from the service area to the dyno area (same parking lot), let it idle for a bit, put in a baseline tune, did a few partial throttle runs to see what a/f readings were looking like, then started out at 15 psi boost... made 325 whp... made a few changes, made a few more hp at that boost, and later that same day, at 26 psi boost, made just over 500 whp... the engine officially had zero miles on it, though if you would have looked at the odometer, we probably put 50 miles on it that day on the dyno...
that motor outlasted the car it was in and was sold, never consumed any oil or anything...
the more pressure you get in the cylinder, the better the chances the rings get broken in properly...
ps - it was a 2 liter...
I distinctly remember a car we put on the dyno - literally drove it from the service area to the dyno area (same parking lot), let it idle for a bit, put in a baseline tune, did a few partial throttle runs to see what a/f readings were looking like, then started out at 15 psi boost... made 325 whp... made a few changes, made a few more hp at that boost, and later that same day, at 26 psi boost, made just over 500 whp... the engine officially had zero miles on it, though if you would have looked at the odometer, we probably put 50 miles on it that day on the dyno...
that motor outlasted the car it was in and was sold, never consumed any oil or anything...
the more pressure you get in the cylinder, the better the chances the rings get broken in properly...
ps - it was a 2 liter...
04-01-11, 12:00 PM
#50
Lexus Fanatic
BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive
continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of
new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the
moving parts a chance to break in.
Drive your new vehicle at least 500 miles (800 km) before towing a
trailer. For more detailed information about towing a trailer, refer to
Trailer towing in the Tires, Wheels and Loading chapter.
Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since
these additives may prevent piston ring seating.
Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive
continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of
new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the
moving parts a chance to break in.
Drive your new vehicle at least 500 miles (800 km) before towing a
trailer. For more detailed information about towing a trailer, refer to
Trailer towing in the Tires, Wheels and Loading chapter.
Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since
these additives may prevent piston ring seating.
04-01-11, 12:07 PM
#52
Lexus Fanatic
Break-in today for consumer involves tires and brake pads more than anything else for first few miles, as I mentioned earlier.
04-01-11, 12:17 PM
#53
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
fyi - Ford Explorer (4th generation) break-in procedure below since I think it was asked about earlier (and it gives some perspective on another major US automakers approach):
BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive
continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of
new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the
moving parts a chance to break in.
Drive your new vehicle at least 500 miles (800 km) before towing a
trailer. For more detailed information about towing a trailer, refer to
Trailer towing in the Tires, Wheels and Loading chapter.
Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since
these additives may prevent piston ring seating.
BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive
continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of
new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the
moving parts a chance to break in.
Drive your new vehicle at least 500 miles (800 km) before towing a
trailer. For more detailed information about towing a trailer, refer to
Trailer towing in the Tires, Wheels and Loading chapter.
Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since
these additives may prevent piston ring seating.
regardless, i still think it's just cya by car companies. unless someone buy's a car and drives 500 miles on an interstate with hardly any stops, they're going to be varying their speed, and what do they mean by 'frequently' anyway?
04-01-11, 12:25 PM
#54
Lexus Fanatic
where is that in the manuals? i've got mine right here.
regardless, i still think it's just cya by car companies. unless someone buy's a car and drives 500 miles on an interstate with hardly any stops, they're going to be varying their speed, and what do they mean by 'frequently' anyway?
regardless, i still think it's just cya by car companies. unless someone buy's a car and drives 500 miles on an interstate with hardly any stops, they're going to be varying their speed, and what do they mean by 'frequently' anyway?
Regardless I've always driven the cars normally or same as usual for duration of my ownership experience (without any engine problems). And normally I don't drone for hundreds of miles at the same steady speed.
04-01-11, 01:14 PM
#55
Lexus Champion
Common sense should prevail. Just read the owners manual for break-in guidelines and follow them. They warranty the car so you can't go wrong.
I agree with two points brought up here. The guidelines seem to apply more to brakes and tires, and in many repsects they are a bit of CYA for the manufacturer.
I agree with two points brought up here. The guidelines seem to apply more to brakes and tires, and in many repsects they are a bit of CYA for the manufacturer.
04-01-11, 01:29 PM
#56
Lexus Fanatic
I do have the means to afford a 'gaff' like this and my time is better wasted other useless places than the dealer. We did get the ML350 and not sure why someone mention the engine was sluggish?? It's got very good pick up but admittedly it ain't a V8. We'll see about the quality and reliability. At least I know the service will be a bit more respectful.
.
Regarding Mercedes and the ML350, yes you will find Mercedes service to be very good (I've had mostly good dealings with Mercedes service departments over the last 15 years), almost as good as Lexus service. If you have a decent Mercedes salesperson, he can line you up with one of the better service advisors and you can stick with him/her through the entire warranty period.
The ML350 is quick in its class, for example C&D recorded 0-60 in low 7's, not bad for 3.5L in 4800 pound SUV.
Quality and reliability is average at best for the current gen ML. (Generalizations about Mercedes brand reliability are not all that helpful because each model is very different) The latest designs such as the 08-11 C-class are proving to be more reliable than most Benz's probably as a result of more durability testing prior to release.
04-01-11, 02:00 PM
#57
The OP had me laughing...funny story, though I am sorry to hear of your experience.
FWIW, I've driven a few HEMI-equipped cars and found them to be pretty weak as well. A few years ago I actually raced a Hemi Ram 4 door in a GX and also smoked him, so it has been done!
FWIW, I've driven a few HEMI-equipped cars and found them to be pretty weak as well. A few years ago I actually raced a Hemi Ram 4 door in a GX and also smoked him, so it has been done!
04-01-11, 02:55 PM
#58
Lexus Fanatic
In my experience the Hemi doesnt mean much. BTW the "hemi" engine design is ancient. It made a splash back in the day and it really only means something to the older drivers who remember all of the hype from back in the day. They are huge gas guzzling motors that lose their breath at insanely low rpm relative to todays motors.
the term hemi is purely marketing hype. In my V8 I want to hear words like direct injected and variable valve timing
the term hemi is purely marketing hype. In my V8 I want to hear words like direct injected and variable valve timing
04-01-11, 04:21 PM
#59
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Did you get the typical (and notorious) bed-weld rusting all around the rear-bed where it was attached to the frame? 80s-vintage Toyota trucks were known for that. It came from the fact that, for tariff reasons, the trucks were shipped over from Japan without the beds. The beds were all welded on at the West Coast Toyota warehouse, with crappy welds that rusted from the inside out.....there wasn't much you could do to stop it, short of living in a very dry climate.
Nice jeep!
And yes, expectations do come into play. I believe that my jeep would be in better condition if my mom and sister didn't treat it so poorly when they had it.
As for the Grand Cherokee itself, it was the result of Chrysler really trying to meld a lot of their products with Jeep products, and thus become one of the first "soccer mom" SUVs, because they were more Chrysler than an actual Jeep. However, during the very first year for the GC (92), they were offered with an Aisin automatic or manual - the same offered in the regular Cherokee. These were the most "Jeepy" GCs.
But I digress. This doesn't really have anything to do with your newer GC problems.
And yes, expectations do come into play. I believe that my jeep would be in better condition if my mom and sister didn't treat it so poorly when they had it.
As for the Grand Cherokee itself, it was the result of Chrysler really trying to meld a lot of their products with Jeep products, and thus become one of the first "soccer mom" SUVs, because they were more Chrysler than an actual Jeep. However, during the very first year for the GC (92), they were offered with an Aisin automatic or manual - the same offered in the regular Cherokee. These were the most "Jeepy" GCs.
But I digress. This doesn't really have anything to do with your newer GC problems.
In my experience the Hemi doesnt mean much. BTW the "hemi" engine design is ancient. It made a splash back in the day and it really only means something to the older drivers who remember all of the hype from back in the day. They are huge gas guzzling motors that lose their breath at insanely low rpm relative to todays motors.
the term hemi is purely marketing hype. In my V8 I want to hear words like direct injected and variable valve timing
the term hemi is purely marketing hype. In my V8 I want to hear words like direct injected and variable valve timing
Last edited by BLUEGXLVCR; 04-01-11 at 05:16 PM.
04-01-11, 05:19 PM
#60
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In my experience the Hemi doesnt mean much. BTW the "hemi" engine design is ancient. It made a splash back in the day and it really only means something to the older drivers who remember all of the hype from back in the day. They are huge gas guzzling motors that lose their breath at insanely low rpm relative to todays motors.
the term hemi is purely marketing hype. In my V8 I want to hear words like direct injected and variable valve timing
the term hemi is purely marketing hype. In my V8 I want to hear words like direct injected and variable valve timing
In general (and again I can only talk about trucks) it has been very reliable. It is the automatic transmissions that tend to be the most problematic. It is certainly not the most advanced V8 on the market, but it is certainly very different and much improved from the Hemis of the old muscle car era.
Here is a page from Allpar.com if anyone was interested (which on this site is probably not very many people):
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/new-mopar-hemi.html