Ways to stretch those gas dollars.
09-01-05, 06:13 PM
#1
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Ways to stretch those gas dollars.
Gas prices, of course are affecting almost everyone.....but we don't necessarily have to give up our cars or driving. Many of you already know how to make those hard-earned gas dollars go further, but for those of you who don't, here are some time-honored tips:
Drive as much as possible with the engine warm. Cold starts and extended warm-ups make the engine run rich and use more gas than when warm.
Consolidate trips if possible. Combine as many errands as you can into one run.
Avoid as much stop-and-go as possible. Most of the gas is used just getting the car moving from a stop.
Keep the engine, transmission, and final-drive fluids changed....engine oil at 3000-5000 miles, transmission fluid at 15,000-30,000 depending on driving conditions. Good lubrication obviously means less drag and better mileage.
Keep the engine RPM down and accelerate and brake slowly and smoothly. However, TOO low an RPM for the gear you're in will lug the engine and DECREASE mileage.
Try to avoid hills if possible.....flat roads are usually better for mileage. Coasting down hills in neutral or in too high a gear will save gas, yes, but it can damage the transmission and also be dangerous by eliminating compressional engine braking in lower gears and throwing too high a load on the brakes if you need to stop. This can lead to many different brake problems. And, of course, in hilly country you will use a lot of gas going UP.
Take all the excess and unnecessary junk of of your car...trunk, cargo area, under the seats, etc......it just adds weight and burns more gas. Keep only what is important or truly needed.
Try and avoid strong headwinds and crosswinds if possible......weaker ones won't hurt much. Strong headwinds increase air resistance and strong crosswinds increase tire drag by forcing the tires to steer off a centerline to keep the car on a straight course.
Make sure the wheels and tires are properly aligned and inflated. Significantly misaligned tires ( especially toe-in / out) will add unnecessary rolling friction and cause drag. Air at most gas stations is free. The correct pressure for the OEM ( stock ) tires and tire size will be found on the drivers' door jamb, inside the glove compartment, or in the Owners' Manual. A couple of extra pounds of air in the tires will increase mileage by bulging out the center of the tire slightly and lessening the tire contact patch....but this will also give a rougher ride, jar the suspension and body structure more over bumps, decrease traction, and lessen steering response with the smaller contact patch.
Check the tires when COLD.....less than three-quarters of a mile or after sitting 3 or more hours.
Turn off the A/C compressor if not needed ( on some vehicles it goes on and off automatically with the front windshield defroster ). A/C compressors, particularly older and less efficient types, can use as much gas as 4 MPG.
Take off any body parts (if possible) that adds air drag. Stuff that may look " cool ", at most normal driving seeds, can decrease gas mileage by creating that drag. Some rear-deck spoilers, for example, not only create drag but can be unbolted.
Don't run larger-than-standard tires on your car. I know a lot of you guys want the big-diameter and low-profile steering response so you can throw your car around corners, but depending on the type of the rubber tread compound involved, a larger road contact patch on the tire usually means more drag, more rolling friction, and less gas mileage. This is why high-mileage vehicles like the Prius and Civic Hybrid generally have tall, high-profile, narrow tires......less rolling friction for better mileage.
Don't take the Suburban, at 11-15 MPG, down to the grocery store if you are only getting a few things and can take a Hyundai Accent or other small vehicle that will get 2 or 3 times that mileage. You would be amazed the number of people driving big SUV's ALONE or for trips that can be done by much more economical vehicles.
Drive with windows up whan possible. Open windows and vents cause added drag and air turbulence and lower mileage. However, the question inevitably comes up of the choice between open-window driving and using the A/C...which is better? Studies have been done on this subject and it has been found on a number of vehicles that the A/C compressor actually causes less of a mileage drop than opening the windows.....it is important to keep smooth airflow on the outside of the car.
If possible, try to stay on dry pavement. Dirt, gravel, snow, slush rain, etc..... decreases mileage by increasing the drag on the tires rolling through it. This can be as much as 2 MPG. Driving in precipitation also means more use of the lights, wipers, fog lights, defroster, A/C, etc....which uses electricity and makes the engine and alternator work harder recharging the battery.
If your vehicle has a driver-controlled electric switch that chooses between 2WD, 4WD, AWD, 4HI, 4LO, etc......like Explorers, Grand Cherokees, Troopers. etc........keep it in 2WD as much as possible or feasible. Fewer driven wheels means less drag and better mileage.
Try to drive in daylight hours rather than at night. Headlights consume a small amount of power by requiring more electricity from the alternator.....but many of today's lights are so efficient and take such a small amount that this is becoming insignificant....and DRLs are on permanantly anyway. Driving in daylight also usually means higher air temperatures...and better mileage.
Look for sale gas prices.....but don't use cheap, cut-rate brands. I know that not everyone will not agree with me on this, but buying cheap gas from Smiling Sam's El Cheapo station down the street can often compromise the quality of what you get....the underground tanks could water or dirt-contaminated and the gas itself may not have the high-quality detergent package needed to keep today's advanced fuel-injecion systems clean.
( For the record, I highly recommend three brands, if available in your area....Chevron with Techroline, Shell V-Power, and BP / Amoco ). Chevron, especially, has proved itself in many tests.
Resist the temptation, also, to use 87-octane if 91 or 93 is recommended. I know this is another area where not everyone will agree, but the engineers who actually designed the engine usually know best. They recommend ( or require ) certain grades for a reason. Different grades and octanes of gasoline have markedly different vapor pressures, burning characteristics, and resistance to knocking. Some engines with knock sensors can be safely run on lower-than-recommended octane for brief periods, but this was not intended to be a long-term measure, and you must also consider the fact that retarding the spark timing........which is basically what knock sensors do.........will result in less power and lower mileage, so all else being equal, you will probably burn more gas that way and may not end up really saving any money anyway.
So....those are my recommendations. Feel free to add any of your own as well.
I have deliberately avoided the subject in detail of buying large quanitities of gas when the price is down and storing it at home for future use because the quality of gas containers, state and local laws on the subject, fire ordinances, safety of storage areas, flammability hazards, etc...simply varies too much from place to place, but in general it is not a good idea because gas can deterorate with age as well.
Drive as much as possible with the engine warm. Cold starts and extended warm-ups make the engine run rich and use more gas than when warm.
Consolidate trips if possible. Combine as many errands as you can into one run.
Avoid as much stop-and-go as possible. Most of the gas is used just getting the car moving from a stop.
Keep the engine, transmission, and final-drive fluids changed....engine oil at 3000-5000 miles, transmission fluid at 15,000-30,000 depending on driving conditions. Good lubrication obviously means less drag and better mileage.
Keep the engine RPM down and accelerate and brake slowly and smoothly. However, TOO low an RPM for the gear you're in will lug the engine and DECREASE mileage.
Try to avoid hills if possible.....flat roads are usually better for mileage. Coasting down hills in neutral or in too high a gear will save gas, yes, but it can damage the transmission and also be dangerous by eliminating compressional engine braking in lower gears and throwing too high a load on the brakes if you need to stop. This can lead to many different brake problems. And, of course, in hilly country you will use a lot of gas going UP.
Take all the excess and unnecessary junk of of your car...trunk, cargo area, under the seats, etc......it just adds weight and burns more gas. Keep only what is important or truly needed.
Try and avoid strong headwinds and crosswinds if possible......weaker ones won't hurt much. Strong headwinds increase air resistance and strong crosswinds increase tire drag by forcing the tires to steer off a centerline to keep the car on a straight course.
Make sure the wheels and tires are properly aligned and inflated. Significantly misaligned tires ( especially toe-in / out) will add unnecessary rolling friction and cause drag. Air at most gas stations is free. The correct pressure for the OEM ( stock ) tires and tire size will be found on the drivers' door jamb, inside the glove compartment, or in the Owners' Manual. A couple of extra pounds of air in the tires will increase mileage by bulging out the center of the tire slightly and lessening the tire contact patch....but this will also give a rougher ride, jar the suspension and body structure more over bumps, decrease traction, and lessen steering response with the smaller contact patch.
Check the tires when COLD.....less than three-quarters of a mile or after sitting 3 or more hours.
Turn off the A/C compressor if not needed ( on some vehicles it goes on and off automatically with the front windshield defroster ). A/C compressors, particularly older and less efficient types, can use as much gas as 4 MPG.
Take off any body parts (if possible) that adds air drag. Stuff that may look " cool ", at most normal driving seeds, can decrease gas mileage by creating that drag. Some rear-deck spoilers, for example, not only create drag but can be unbolted.
Don't run larger-than-standard tires on your car. I know a lot of you guys want the big-diameter and low-profile steering response so you can throw your car around corners, but depending on the type of the rubber tread compound involved, a larger road contact patch on the tire usually means more drag, more rolling friction, and less gas mileage. This is why high-mileage vehicles like the Prius and Civic Hybrid generally have tall, high-profile, narrow tires......less rolling friction for better mileage.
Don't take the Suburban, at 11-15 MPG, down to the grocery store if you are only getting a few things and can take a Hyundai Accent or other small vehicle that will get 2 or 3 times that mileage. You would be amazed the number of people driving big SUV's ALONE or for trips that can be done by much more economical vehicles.
Drive with windows up whan possible. Open windows and vents cause added drag and air turbulence and lower mileage. However, the question inevitably comes up of the choice between open-window driving and using the A/C...which is better? Studies have been done on this subject and it has been found on a number of vehicles that the A/C compressor actually causes less of a mileage drop than opening the windows.....it is important to keep smooth airflow on the outside of the car.
If possible, try to stay on dry pavement. Dirt, gravel, snow, slush rain, etc..... decreases mileage by increasing the drag on the tires rolling through it. This can be as much as 2 MPG. Driving in precipitation also means more use of the lights, wipers, fog lights, defroster, A/C, etc....which uses electricity and makes the engine and alternator work harder recharging the battery.
If your vehicle has a driver-controlled electric switch that chooses between 2WD, 4WD, AWD, 4HI, 4LO, etc......like Explorers, Grand Cherokees, Troopers. etc........keep it in 2WD as much as possible or feasible. Fewer driven wheels means less drag and better mileage.
Try to drive in daylight hours rather than at night. Headlights consume a small amount of power by requiring more electricity from the alternator.....but many of today's lights are so efficient and take such a small amount that this is becoming insignificant....and DRLs are on permanantly anyway. Driving in daylight also usually means higher air temperatures...and better mileage.
Look for sale gas prices.....but don't use cheap, cut-rate brands. I know that not everyone will not agree with me on this, but buying cheap gas from Smiling Sam's El Cheapo station down the street can often compromise the quality of what you get....the underground tanks could water or dirt-contaminated and the gas itself may not have the high-quality detergent package needed to keep today's advanced fuel-injecion systems clean.
( For the record, I highly recommend three brands, if available in your area....Chevron with Techroline, Shell V-Power, and BP / Amoco ). Chevron, especially, has proved itself in many tests.
Resist the temptation, also, to use 87-octane if 91 or 93 is recommended. I know this is another area where not everyone will agree, but the engineers who actually designed the engine usually know best. They recommend ( or require ) certain grades for a reason. Different grades and octanes of gasoline have markedly different vapor pressures, burning characteristics, and resistance to knocking. Some engines with knock sensors can be safely run on lower-than-recommended octane for brief periods, but this was not intended to be a long-term measure, and you must also consider the fact that retarding the spark timing........which is basically what knock sensors do.........will result in less power and lower mileage, so all else being equal, you will probably burn more gas that way and may not end up really saving any money anyway.
So....those are my recommendations. Feel free to add any of your own as well.
I have deliberately avoided the subject in detail of buying large quanitities of gas when the price is down and storing it at home for future use because the quality of gas containers, state and local laws on the subject, fire ordinances, safety of storage areas, flammability hazards, etc...simply varies too much from place to place, but in general it is not a good idea because gas can deterorate with age as well.
Last edited by mmarshall; 09-01-05 at 07:25 PM.
09-01-05, 06:23 PM
#2
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I've read that driving at 55mph gives your car the best gas mileage. Is this still true? That is to say, that driving at 75mph gets you there faster but gives you much worse gas mileage.
09-01-05, 06:29 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by kingkong5
I've read that driving at 55mph gives your car the best gas mileage. Is this still true? That is to say, that driving at 75mph gets you there faster but gives you much worse gas mileage.
09-01-05, 06:36 PM
#5
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by AutoCoutureSC
of course it's true. Your RPM's are lower in the 55mph range than 75mph range. 
For instance, say, 2500 RPM at 25 MPH is obviously not going to give you the same mileage as 2500 RPM at 55-60 MPH....common with many overdrive transmissons.
Last edited by mmarshall; 09-01-05 at 06:40 PM.
09-01-05, 06:45 PM
#6
Originally Posted by mmarshall
What is more significant than RPM's (revolutions pre MINUTE) is revolutions per DISTANCE travelled. This is determined by many factors.....gearing being the most important.
For instance, say, 2500 RPM at 25 MPH is obviously not going to give you the same mileage as 2500 RPM at 55-60 MPH....common with many overdrive transmissons.
For instance, say, 2500 RPM at 25 MPH is obviously not going to give you the same mileage as 2500 RPM at 55-60 MPH....common with many overdrive transmissons.
09-01-05, 06:50 PM
#7
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I got one, I bought a car that with it's mileage and use of regular unleaded saves me enough money to cover the car payment. although this doesn't necessarily lower how mush I spen per month with the insurance rate change and such of the additional, it's costing me about $20 more than before and I now have a 4 door gas saver than I can park anywhere and not worry which kees the miles and damage off my other vehicles worth much more.
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09-01-05, 06:57 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by SDuquette
I got one, I bought a car that with it's mileage and use of regular unleaded saves me enough money to cover the car payment. although this doesn't necessarily lower how mush I spen per month with the insurance rate change and such of the additional, it's costing me about $20 more than before and I now have a 4 door gas saver than I can park anywhere and not worry which kees the miles and damage off my other vehicles worth much more.
Take my new Outback, for example. Its overall mileage, due to AWD, isn't really much higher from the IS300 I had before.......just a few MPG......but it is significantly cheaper to run because of the 87-octane requirement vs. 93 on the old car. It also was not expensive to get due to its moderate price and the good retail and trade-in value of my old car.
Last edited by mmarshall; 09-01-05 at 07:05 PM.
Thanks Marshall
09-05-05, 12:45 PM
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If you're very serious about cutting back on gas consumption, you can also try out public transportation, join a van/car pool, telecommute or take vacations on heavy traffic days (i.e. Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday).
Don't drive the SUVs. SUVs eat gas like crazy. I wouldn't recommend buying or driving one around town.
Don't drive the SUVs. SUVs eat gas like crazy. I wouldn't recommend buying or driving one around town.
09-05-05, 12:52 PM
#11
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Has anyone used one of those gas supplements that increase your gas mileage? I think someone I know had used a product once a long time ago and he said it really worked. You just pour a bottle in your gas tank. But I can't remember what it was called! I just remember he gave me positive feedback on it. Does anyone know?
09-05-05, 03:02 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by AsianGirl007
Has anyone used one of those gas supplements that increase your gas mileage? I think someone I know had used a product once a long time ago and he said it really worked. You just pour a bottle in your gas tank. But I can't remember what it was called! I just remember he gave me positive feedback on it. Does anyone know?
Snake-oil miracle-mileage claims are a dime a dozen. If they actually WORKED engineers would use them and install them at the factory.
09-05-05, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by AsianGirl007
Has anyone used one of those gas supplements that increase your gas mileage? I think someone I know had used a product once a long time ago and he said it really worked. You just pour a bottle in your gas tank. But I can't remember what it was called! I just remember he gave me positive feedback on it. Does anyone know?
09-05-05, 05:51 PM
#15
Lexus Champion
I can personally vouch for the fact that driving at 55 mph is NOT your best gas mileage. We took the GS430 up to Wisconsin and got a consistant 28 mpg at 75-80 mph, when the recommended highway is 25.
I took the ES300 to ISU, and got ~29 mpg at 75 mph (did that through math).
I took the ES300 to ISU, and got ~29 mpg at 75 mph (did that through math).