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Diff is back on. I’ll have to call DSS tomorrow to verify if this gap between the u-joint and adapter is OK/normal. This is with the driveshaft fully extended. I can tighten the bolts and the gap will close, but im
not sure what I’m pulling on at that point. The diff is also as far forward as possible already, there’s a small adjustment. Once I loosen the u-joint bolts, the gap opens up again by what’s shown in the picture (about 3/16”)
Made this thing years ago. It has served its purpose many times!
That is gorgeous.
Originally Posted by lobuxracer
I need to make a tool like that for crank dampers. Love the Snap-On torque wrench. I have one just like it...
I made one not too long ago with just some flat metal, drill three holes, and make a Y shape with a bolt at the pivot point, and one at each end of the Y. Cheap and very effective at the crank pulley/damper.
^^^ Neat tool..!! I know at the dealership they just gun them down..
What did they say in the driveshaft fitment?
Joe Z
I was told to take a measurement between the face of the shaft end to the face of the CV joint once everything is buttoned up, spec is 3.25"-3.75". I got 3.875", so, I'm definitely pre loading the CV. I'll have to call them again today to give them that information. Bryson, the guy I've been dealing with there, has been very helpful so far, we'll see what he has to say.
Originally Posted by lobuxracer
I need to make a tool like that for crank dampers. Love the Snap-On torque wrench. I have one just like it...
I have the SST one for Toyota dampers from my days with 5M, 7M, and 2J engines. Love my Snap-On torque wrenches, especially the angle feature.
Originally Posted by ultimase
That is gorgeous.
I made one not too long ago with just some flat metal, drill three holes, and make a Y shape with a bolt at the pivot point, and one at each end of the Y. Cheap and very effective at the crank pulley/damper.
When you reassemble the rear before installing the shock assembly do you think you could move the suspension up and down to see if and where the poly joints bind?
After the front UCA bushings, there’s no rubber bushing left to replace!
Great job for sure, wondering what kind of effect all this will have on ride quality. Back in the day a swapped bunch of my bushings to poly from Energy suspension on my Eclipse, the ride quality became unbearable.
SuperPro are supposed to be the best in this regard, but really looking forward to your feedback.
After the front UCA bushings, there’s no rubber bushing left to replace!
Any plan for the UCA ball joints??? I replaced mine many years ago with the SPC and it's been set to ZERO ever since.. Hope to dial it in on next tire and wheel alignment
When you reassemble the rear before installing the shock assembly do you think you could move the suspension up and down to see if and where the poly joints bind?
Thanks! None of them bind, I made sure I used plenty of their grease during assembly. How long before they need re-greasing? I hope a long time..
Originally Posted by Rossi
Great job for sure, wondering what kind of effect all this will have on ride quality. Back in the day a swapped bunch of my bushings to poly from Energy suspension on my Eclipse, the ride quality became unbearable.
SuperPro are supposed to be the best in this regard, but really looking forward to your feedback.
Thanks. I sure hope the ride quality will not be unbearable, I've prepared myself for some increase in NVH, but we'll see!
Originally Posted by Joe Z
Any plan for the UCA ball joints??? I replaced mine many years ago with the SPC and it's been set to ZERO ever since.. Hope to dial it in on next tire and wheel alignment
Joe Z
No plans to replace them unless they go bad. I actually want to run a little negative camber so I even got the offset inner bushings, and set them to max negative (-1 degree)
