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I felt like my boost was not doing the right things. No matter where I set my Manual Boost Control, the boost would not go over about 5 psi. I decided to do a pressure test on the intercooler system from the throttle body back to the intake air filter. When I did this, I quickly found that one of the hose clamps holding the tube to the turbo output was completely off and it was leaking air as fast as you can imagine. I put the clamp back on and tightened it up. I pressure tested again and all is tight now. I took as test drive and the car feels great again. I love my turbo SC.
Here is a picture of the kit I built to pressure test the system.
Hey Marcus, where have you been? Are you back on the road again? Are you still planning to move to Huntsville. Would love an update.
Bill
Mobile
Hey Bill! I've been quietly reading and continuing to build up my knowledge bank. I'm not back on the road yet. I'm currently waiting on a clutch. The car is undergoing almost a complete overhaul and don't have a lot of time to occupy the garage. So I need everything to be in place before I start working.
The potential move to Huntsville has been paused. My wife is scared of such a big shift. I still own my property there, and will not be selling it, but we may move once its time to retire. Thanks for checking on me!
I replaced my sway bar end links and bushings. The Moog end links are a bit beefier and have Zerk fittings so you can grease them and flush out debris, salt etc.
These will last a long time. I used these also when I replaced mine at the time I installed my front after market sway bar. Still have not installed my rear sway bar (part of the set) because I have not found the rear ones I want. If anyone has a source for the rear Moog one with the Zerk fittings I would love to know.
I had one of the LEDs from the Tanin Auto Electronix kit go bad. They were under a 5 year warranty and so they sent me an entire new kit for free. Now I have 7 extra LED bulbs in case any more drop out. They replaced the bulbs with no hassle at all.
I installed my new HKS coilovers and new Supra control arms today. Not too bad. I only had to cut 2 of the control arm bolts. A total of 4 cuts. I went through 4 blades. The car dropped 1.25”. Next up is an alignment.
Today I replaced my clutch master cylinder with a Wilwood.70” bore. Boy does it feel tight. I got it bled so good. The push is a little harder as the old bore was .625” but the throw is shorter. In any case it feels great.
I used these parts:
Wilwood Prod#: 260-15097 Clutch master cylinder (Amazon $65)
Chase Bays Clutch Master Cylinder Adapter - Lexus IS300 - SKU: CB-MK-CMCADAPT (Chasebays.com $40)
Brake Line Thread Adapter, Male 3/8" x 24 Inverted, Female M10 x 1 Inverted (Ebay $17)
B27083AZKT 5/16-24" Clevis Pin Kit (Amazon $7)
Had to open up the hole in the bulkhead a bit with a grind wheel on a Dremel.
Had to open up the gap on the clevis fork with a file a bit.
But other than that it was pretty straight forward.
Toyota and Lexus Join Mille Miglia For The First Time
Slideshow: A five-car lineup spanning more than five decades of Toyota performance and engineering will tackle one of Italy's most celebrated automotive routes.
Intercooler Pressure Test
