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Awesome car! Goes to show that if taken care of, these things can go almost forever without issues.
If you're interested in a refresh, I put together LED retrofit kits for the 2IS. Made a huge difference for my 07 IS250 - feel free to reach out to me or check out our website if you're interested!
Are you an original IS350 owner like I am with over a decade of ownership?
Got the IS350 in Jan 2006, within the first 3 months that the 2IS was released in the USA! Over 13 yrs ago!
Originally Posted by redspencer
That's a great list of future upgrades/refreshes. You should be fine with mixing upgraded sway bars with coilovers.
I read on CL that someone was having issues with the bars and coils, I'm going with 12/10 spring rate if that helps. This is going on a daily driver which potentially "could" be used to drive canyon roads occasionally.
Originally Posted by redspencer
Though pricey, getting an OS Giken TCD LSD would greatly enhance your daily drives as you can enjoy every traffic light turn with an entirely new perspective (torque vectoring throttle steering).
I wish I could try it out in person before purchasing. I have torque vectoring on the Macan and it's pretty nice but I rarely use it.
Originally Posted by redspencer
You can also look into replacing your worn out bushings with a full set from Figs Engineering. I believe they offer a full kit for high mileage cars.
The full kit is $1300 and I assume the install is not straightforward? I don't feel like I need it yet either, I was pretty happy with the ride of the car on F-sport shock and H&R's.
There's the figs bushings kit (superpro polyurethane, no subframe but you can get new OEM rubber there + figs/superpro inserts), strongflex kit, whiteline polyurethane (rear only, haven't seen them mentioned much), various febest/jikiu/etc unknown quality aftermarket rubber bushings for the individual components. Figs also makes probably the best version of the rear knuckle spherical bearing "bushing", assuming you don't face winter conditions, as it's a non-sealed "self-cleaning" design. I did see a mention of a potential sealed version for the 1IS/2GS somewhere... don't know what happened with that. The other options are... again, unknown quality ebay bushings, or febest & jikiu (no clue where and how those are made, and what their quality actually is, probably the same). Hardrace makes hardened rubber bushings for the front UCA.
Then, of course, you can just replace everything with OEM, but that'll probably be around $5k. Yes, the rear knuckles have wear components in them that are not sold individually by Toyota. I mean, it's an aluminum part (and alu does pick up stress over time), but still, c'mon...
Wow, that's insane for OEM replacement. Once I install the coilovers (and now maybe sways...), if I'm not satisfied with the tightness of the ride then will look at bushings as the next step. Even after almost 200k miles, it still feels tight and direct. Maybe the bushings are completely shot and I'm getting direct feedback that way! I'll look at them when I do the wheel well steps (taking off wheels for refinishing, installing BBK & coilovers).
Originally Posted by Lwerewolf
What's the problem with braided brake lines?
The OEM lines are tougher and not prone to unraveling per this post from Lobuxracer.
Forgot you mentioned BBK... If $,$$$ is not a hold back there are plenty of chassis braces to add too.
And while you're at it (if it remains a DD), hands free / bluetooth is pretty much mandatory in most places these days.
For DD duty, chassis brace may not be needed? Especially if I end up going sway bars.
Definitely looking at a replacement infotainment unit. I have the non-Nav version and want to upgrade to either OEM or the Tesla like interface. Need to do research there.
Back on topic... to add more badges... Apparently one can pickup 8 to 10 "L" badges on the outside between all the caps... there seems to be 3 in a row here...
Likely available as F-Sport also!
LOL! Yes, I like the way you think! Added valve caps to the list with credit! Will keep the Volk center caps though, I love the mix of polished & matte "R". Pic below!
Awesome car! Goes to show that if taken care of, these things can go almost forever without issues.
If you're interested in a refresh, I put together LED retrofit kits for the 2IS. Made a huge difference for my 07 IS250 - feel free to reach out to me or check out our website if you're interested!
Wow, that's insane for OEM replacement. Once I install the coilovers (and now maybe sways...), if I'm not satisfied with the tightness of the ride then will look at bushings as the next step. Even after almost 200k miles, it still feels tight and direct. Maybe the bushings are completely shot and I'm getting direct feedback that way! I'll look at them when I do the wheel well steps (taking off wheels for refinishing, installing BBK & coilovers).
If it's tight and direct, the bushings are probably OK. Alternatively, you've gotten used to it over time
I'm still doing full PU on the back of my gs this Monday (subframe aside - IS-F rubber, they're sold separately), but I'll be saving the old bushings (press out, no burns... want to take measures too, don't think anybody's done that yet, and it should help a lot), so we'll see.
Originally Posted by autovation
The OEM lines are tougher and not prone to unraveling per this post from Lobuxracer.
You just saved me a ton of trouble. I was about to order ss lines in preparation for potential track time, I'll stick with high performance brake fluid and potential rotors/pads after. Many thanks!
If it's tight and direct, the bushings are probably OK. Alternatively, you've gotten used to it over time
I'm still doing full PU on the back of my gs this Monday (subframe aside - IS-F rubber, they're sold separately), but I'll be saving the old bushings (press out, no burns... want to take measures too, don't think anybody's done that yet, and it should help a lot), so we'll see.
You just saved me a ton of trouble. I was about to order ss lines in preparation for potential track time, I'll stick with high performance brake fluid and potential rotors/pads after. Many thanks!
Are you talking about the Sub-frame to body mounts? In the IS-F section there was a track build, should be easy to find as one of the few with CF roof to ditch moon roof and hardware for weight savings. I don't think he took measurements tho but went straight to aluminum.
I'd think this would stiffen the chassis a good deal and once solid, its fairly free game to tie it down structurally but this isn't a track car so....
On that note mine gets wheel hop so if an LSD goes in the diff will be mounted in urethane. At least in this application it can't squeak!
Are you talking about the Sub-frame to body mounts? In the IS-F section there was a track build, should be easy to find as one of the few with CF roof to ditch moon roof and hardware for weight savings. I don't think he took measurements tho but went straight to aluminum.
I'd think this would stiffen the chassis a good deal and once solid, its fairly free game to tie it down structurally but this isn't a track car so....
On that note mine gets wheel hop so if an LSD goes in the diff will be mounted in urethane. At least in this application it can't squeak!
I'm using OEM "IS-F" subframe to body mount bushings, even though they appear to be no different to the ISx50 ones, part-number-wise (I realized later, maybe I'm still wrong... who knows). I daily the car, and these are available OEM separately from the assembly that they slot into, so I went for them. Everything else on the rear (diff aside) - track/toe/control arms and the knuckles, is officially "not service-able" - Toyota won't sell you the bushings, ball joints and spherical bearing on the knuckles, so it's either all new OEM or alternatives. I haven't seen quality rubber alternatives, so I went with the softest polyurethane that I could find. Hopefully the ball joints will be alright. Alternatively, an OEM arms-only refresh is not too expensive. The alu knuckles are the VERY annoying bit.
Solid (alu/Delrin/nylon/whatever) bushings... no way I'm doing this to the car, especially for the subframe bushings. Chassis braces are another story.
Track cars... if it's a pure track car, for tracks with excellent surfaces, then maybe a full solid might be worth it. The right amount of compliance tends to increase performance in other conditions. Since the roads here are... not so well maintained, and given that the car is a daily & long distance tourer...
Need to add a rear spoiler, after polishing the car I noticed the paint on the rear spoiler was faded. Was planning to do another OEM splitter but will look at some of the other options before ordering. The rear spoiler was a dock added option so the paint apparently is not the same quality as the factory paint.
Changed the air conditioner filter and cleaned the carrier. And installed the F-sport mats, replacing the 200k mile floor mats. Was so satisfying to throw them out, lol.
07-02-19, 05:37 PM
