sxc300

Okay so i’m brand new to this, recently picked up a 95 manual sc300 and i’ve been doing some research on how to swap a 1j into my car. i’ve been noticing that the soarer 1j is basicallly plug and play with the sc, my only concern is if i’m going to have issues running an automatic ecu with my stock w58 tranny. i know i’m gonna have to extend my harness to 18in and not quite sure if i should do it myself (i know how to solder, learned from autotech classes in high school) or go worry free and pay a professional. also wanted to know what exact parts will i need besides engine mounts and throttle cable. i have a few friends that are going to be helping when i start the build just want to gather all necessary parts and go into the build well educated so i don’t **** up anything aha. keep in mind i don’t have experience with swapping engines, i’ve done break jobs, oil changes, fuel pump replacements, and just a bunch of maintenance. so any tips or pointers will be greatly appreciated

lets see if this forum is still active

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

sxc300, this forum is quite active. Not sure what might have given the impression that it wasn't.

A Soarer 1JZ-GTE long block fully dressed with the original harness should be a plug and play affair in an SC chassis other than the required 18" extension of the harness wires. Careful attention must be paid to the gauges of each wire being extended. If you're already familiar with proper soldering and heat shrink technique you can tackle this without having another outfit like Tweak'd Tuning do it for you. That is up to you. You can start practicing on some junk wiring to become more skilled.

For my GTE harness conversion I bought several boxes of 127 piece assorted size heat shrink tubes from Harbor Freight (#67524), a Weller soldering gun, Klein Tools multi-gauge wire stripper and cutting tool, a Tech Tron 350W heat gun, and a lot of Delta solder P/N 50-3000 sn60/Pb40 w/3.3% flux built in.

For harness tape I used MANY rolls of Scotch Professional Grade Super 33+ Vinyl Electrical Tape (#6132). At least for specific things that needs to be tidied up inside the harness such as two-int-one crimp connections for extremely thick gauge wires (there will be some of those). For the outer harness tape layer or even just the main harness tape layer you can also use Tesa #51036 flexible tape (this is the same harness repair tape that Toyota and Lexus dealers use).

I also HIGHLY recommend buying yourself an inexpensive dual respirator mask from Lowes or Home Depot and a set of safety goggles. A small Weller soldering vent-away fan helps but is optional if you at least have some other ventilation in the room you'll be working in.

The key thing with doing harness work is to triple-check everything and to test EVERY, SINGLE, CONNECTION. For instance just because you think part of the GTE harness you'll be using is perfect you should still unwrap it and check anyway.

You WILL be repairing a few connections in addition to the soldering work. Driftmotion carries all the major replacement connectors and repair terminals you will need.

You should especially unwrap and double check the wiring connections for every single injector connector and every single ignition coil pack connector. Both of those can suffer from heat damage over time and they also tend to be two of the main areas that get messed with by previous owners. Ask me how I know...

Something that helped me was to have handy a spare commonplace SC automatic wiring harness to cannibalize for high quality wires and terminals. Granted in my case I also needed that harness for the SC body connectors.... and in your case your Soarer harness already has those connectors built in.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

There are a couple of minor things you will also need to do in order to get things running such as pulling out your SC's instrument cluster and adding a 14ga jumper wire to the R180 resistor (to get your tachometer function working with the GTE). Look into Gerrb's big "wiring harness made easy" thread for extensive details on how a lot of wiring functions work in principle. You will have a MOSTLY plug and play swap with a 1JZ-GTE non-VVT-i going into your 1995 SC300 5-speed.

As to the automatic Soarer 1JZ-GTE ECU it should work OK in your 5-speed chassis. The engine operation will be the same but you will have no need for the additional auto transmission circuitry in that ECU. Also, it will not run 100% as perfect as it would with a Soarer 1JZ-GTE Non-VVT Manual ECU but many people also run 2JZ-GE NA-T builds just under 500whp with Aristo 2JZGTE Non-VVT-i ECUs (automatic only in those cars) and that is a common thing to see with NA-T's.

If you can find a Soarer 1JZ Non-VVT Manual ECU then of course it will be the very best solution but you should be able to do fine with the 1JZ Auto ECU.