Nice numbers! should be able to hang with the vette now

 

I've been having a heck of a time dialing in my clutch pedal. I think i got it all in check though so I'll see how it is tomorrow. I banged a few gears today HARD and it didn't even care.

I pick up the vette from my buddy whos detailing/correcting it. It looks brand new! It'll be WEIRD to drive that after this thing lmao

Put the front end together today, I love how you can't even really see the intercooler or anything. Sure sounds like a supra though, very loud.


annnnnd of course i had to put the interior back together, MINT


Here's the most powerful pull on e85:

 

That squat though!! I'm thrilled for you man - it's nice to see someone's project come together after spending so much time and money to do it right. Excellent work!

 

Somehow broke my crank sensor wire, guessing i snagged it during installation of the harness and the vibrations/heat made it weak. Temporarily got home with a butt connector. I'll fix it this week with new pins.



Does anyone need this gauge pod?

 

That sucks! But glad you could get it temporarily fixed until you can do a proper repair soon. I would recommend ordering three new OEM repair terminals for that connector from your dealer. If you can see the five digits embossed on it you can look up the correct wires that you'd need to order.

You just add "90980-" before the five embossed digits to get the full Toyota part number for that connector. Then you can actually look up the corresponding factory repair wires using the wiring repair TSRM linked here:

https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf

I'd post my own copy of it but we have a maximum 7.63MB file attachment limit here and it's 8MB large :/

For OEM Toyota terminal repair wires the starting prefix to add before the last five digits of the specific wire type is "82998-".

 

I have my wiring guy sending me the crimp pins for the dizzy connector. I also got one coming from wiring specialties as a back up.

Ive been hunting for where you can source these pins without the repair wire. I mean these harness builders are getting them somewhere. I ordered some motorcycle ones i believe are the right sizes i need to pull my other harness out and take a look. I wouldn't mind building harnesses for friends if i can figure out where to source some of this crap lol

I'm pretty sure the body plug pins are 040 II, ecu is like 090 II

 

I think i figured out how this works. Here's the 2.3 MM pins (090 II)

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...waAjbMEALw_wcB

 

Those are very close to some of the Toyota OEM ones that I've bought but they're just a little different. However they may work. The main thing will be if the plastic "catch" area is in the right place. You'll have to add your own rubber grommets of course. Actually... for that specific type of terminal you've probably found it. Good work!

From doing my GTE harness conversion (and without tearing it 100% apart at that) I can definitely see the value in finding the raw materials and using a proper crimping device in order to save on costs. I just modified, added, removed and repaired wiring as necessary and it was still somewhat costly when all said and done.

Doing everything from raw materials based on a harness jig or pre-measured pattern can get very expensive if using all OEM stuff. I do believe this is a secondary reason that most turnkey harness companies tend to require a core harness from your car... including being able to reference all the original interface points prior to modification.

The Toyota OEM repair wires are VERY high quality but if you had to do en entire harness from scratch all of them will seriously add up. Not to mention you still need to use the OEM connectors for any connections that aren't aftermarket.

The alternatives I'd have suggested were Wiring Specialties and Driftmotion but I don't believe they go as far as to keep the raw terminal parts like the company you've linked above.

 

I ended up ordering new shielded wire from prowire, and ordered more ecumaster pins. (ecumaster doesn't even have these in stock had to buy them on ebay..) Man it sucks to get parts right now.

 

Re-wired the crank/cam sensor yesterday, I'm pretty happy with it. Got the supplies from Prowireusa.

I basically just ran it along my harness and down until the passenger area zip tied it to the harness.

 

crank/cam wiring holding up super well! No issues thus far. Been having a hell of a time with the clutch adjustments but i finally got it to 99%. I'd like to bleed it some more because when i let it sit after driving and it gets heated up it'll ever so slightly stick to the floor for the first pump or two, which i think might be related to a little bit of air in the system. Other than that it's great!

Had to take it off full e85 as my injector duty is pegging 100% at 6700rpm+ I'll have to take that target boost down a couple psi or not run a full mix of e85. It's still just as fun on 30-40% E85 and arguably faster due to my tiny hard 235 tires lol.

 

Wow, interesting bit about maxxing out the injectors. I would have though they could handle that with room to go!

 

I think it was fine on the dyno making 23-24 psi in the 90 degree heat but as i started driving it in and it cooled off outside its making like 2-3 extra PSI lol I just need to turn it down probably that amount to compensate.

I've been rolling around on pumpgas/e85 mix about 40% and its been fine. I really need to align the thing and get tires and brakes.

 

Took her to the drag strip for some base line's on the crap 235's, no two step, and it was kinda hot. 12.95 @ 127mph.

This is turned down 2.5 PSI from when it was dyno'd to keep injector duty in check under 80%. I've ran the car before and made 26psi so i imagine the trap speed would be nuts like that. Need more fuel overhead!!

I want to get the 60,330 down better before more power anyway.

 

12's are nothing to sneeze at. That is faster than like 90% of the cars out there!