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The Xs power kit comes with most of what you need but you can run to the hardware store and get any fiittings you might think you need just try to see everything in your mind.
It doesn't matter the kind of turbo you got. You got it and your using it lol. Because thats what you could afford. Its not coolant cooled just oil. On the top you use the smaller line feeding the turbo then a big return line.
I got the XS power kit myself and i got new oil feed and return lines because why not make sure your cheap turbo has good oil flow for 80 bucks. I also took my Lower oil pan off (the easy to remove one) and had a shop tig weld a fitting for the return onto it. SO i wasnt trying to drill a hole on the upper pan with it connected to the car.
I got the XS power kit myself and i got new oil feed and return lines because why not make sure your cheap turbo has good oil flow for 80 bucks. I also took my Lower oil pan off (the easy to remove one) and had a shop tig weld a fitting for the return onto it. SO i wasnt trying to drill a hole on the upper pan with it connected to the car.
Yeah thats why i think Imma buy the kit mr posted above. It is expensive but if it means making the lil cheap turbo last longer then why not. Plus once this turbo goes out I can upgrade it and already have great lines for the new turbo ya know? And I think imma go the drilling route and use the oem spot since its pointing up, maximizing flow. Howd the XS power kit treat ya?
Hey everyone, so now that its summer I have all the time in the world with my car and to relax AND do it right. So heres the progress in 2 days.
Removed front bumper
Removed intake and y body
Removed fuel rail
Removed in tank fuel pump
Removed exhaust manifold
Removed downpipe
Removed EGR system (Will delete it)
I think thats about it so far.
So now I plan on getting the fuel system in place with the 550cc high impedance injectors. Get the walbro fuel pump in, and then maybe begin bolting up the turbo and stuff. But on that note.
The studs that bolt the exhaust manifold and turbo together only have enough length to bolt 1 nut per stud. Not 1 on each side. I imagine this is an issue.
Next note, it seems my 97 SC does not have a fuel pressure regulator. I may be mistaken tho. I think this should be no concern in terms of running it rich for a lil bit. Reminder Im doing this build in stages, right now is the foundation being built.
Heres some pics! Old pic, current status is the fuel line has been removed Pay no attention to the homie lol
So. Im still doing reading on the fourms and everywhere else on vaccum lines, bolts and nuts galore. Hope to hear from you all soon!
Good progress. I imagine that your turbo flange is threaded on the manifold? If so, you don’t need a nut on the back of the flange, just thread the stud all the way into the manifold and then set the turbo down onto the studs and put the bolts in place.
Your fuel rail does have a regulator on it. It’s the part of the rail that has a vacuum line going to the manifold. It’s very small but that’s the regulator.
One more thing, you may find that you need shorter exhaust manifold studs when you go to install the exhaust manifold. Here is the part number for the shortened studs from Toyota: 90116-10149
Good progress. I imagine ...... the studs and put the bolts in place.
Your fuel ..... manifold. It’s very small but that’s the regulator.
One more thing, you may find........shortened studs from Toyota: 90116-10149
DUDE WHY DIDNT I THINK OF THAT! Imma check to see if its threaded just to make sure when I get a chance. Thank you!
And wow I didnt want to believe that lil dude was the regulator lol but at least I have one
Wow, didnt even know I needed those. I have a hookup at the toyota dealer here so I'll prob get em asap for the cheap thank you so much! I truly appriciate it sir.
I think today Im going to do the part I dread and fear most... the drilling of the upper pan... I need all the advice I can get on this to be safe as possible without removing the pan (contradicting, I know lol).
I know to use a step bit (idk what size), take it nice and slow with grease. wipe, grease, wipe, grease. And to tap the small holes on the sides for the studs. I feel like I wish I had more info on this part tho.
I think today Im going to do the part I dread and fear most... the drilling of the upper pan... I need all the advice I can get on this to be safe as possible without removing the pan (contradicting, I know lol).
I know to use a step bit (idk what size), take it nice and slow with grease. wipe, grease, wipe, grease. And to tap the small holes on the sides for the studs. I feel like I wish I had more info on this part tho.
i would not leave the pan on, any minor shaving in your lower end will break ****. It's good to re-seal the pan anyway.
I understand the risk and your concern with it. Although, everyone on the fourms seems to do this method. I believe if this is done right, I could maybe have one or two shavings in the oil, which would be flushed out with repeated oil flushes. Plus removing the pan is a ***** and half
take your time and you can flush the rest out, get a couple of those big containers of the cheap oil and use it to flush with.
dropping the pan on a SC3 requires dropping the crossmember (super pain) or pulling the engine (normal pain).
I think today Im going to do the part I dread and fear most... the drilling of the upper pan... I need all the advice I can get on this to be safe as possible without removing the pan (contradicting, I know lol).
I know to use a step bit (idk what size), take it nice and slow with grease. wipe, grease, wipe, grease. And to tap the small holes on the sides for the studs. I feel like I wish I had more info on this part tho.
SOOOOO i just took my lower pan off and had a shop weld a bung onto the side of it for the oil return line. No need to **** with drilling on the car or trying to get the upper pan out.
That isn't really the best way to do it, that lower pan is usually pretty full of oil so you will have to be very careful about your oil level if you choose to do it that way.
If there is oil at the same level as the return it will not gravity drain properly, oil backs up in the return line, then the turbo, then out the exhaust and then you get a smoke show.
Eventually the oil starts to cook in the return line and turbo and then you have to take it all apart and clean it and replace the bearings.
The lowest point I would use is the spot for the oil level sensor, but on a 2jz it is on the wrong side of the engine for that to work, and there is a factory return spot already.
Also from the pan, any shavings that you miss would have to get past the oil pickup screen, and then past the main oil filter to be able to do damage.
So flush it out, and then do a change with cheap oil/filter, and then do another one with good oil and filter after you run it for a while.
Not saying it isn't possible to damage stuff, but I haven't heard it happen yet. If you have the engine out then by all means go ahead and pull the upper pan and weld it.
05-08-19, 07:44 PM
