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You can also skip the can and filter if you put the filter right on the valve cover like in the picture above, just for the passenger side.
This thread I made a while back has some good info in it, look at post 13. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...catch-can.html
Alright fellas, we got the ball rollin now! now the next steps are simply buying another #2 wire for the 4runner cap, and then running the vacuum lines. So here's the pic I was using way back and just wondered if you guys still think its a good diagram to follow. Posted by user Gunnar
This was the diagram I also used for my EGR delete.
Just want to double-check. Also, I'm keeping my power steering
I really do thank you guys working with me seeing how I run in circles and keep asking simple questions. appreciate it!
Last edited by vinyvin; Jul 26, 2019 at 10:54 AM.
Reason: changed a request
Alright guys we got thibgs moving this is great. Do now all that seems to be left will be vaccum lines, and then the ECU. So just double checking, I will be T'ing into the line Mrmj2u suggested for both the WG and BOV. After that I will be wiring up the ECU and do some small maintence and we should be good to send it to the tuner! Piping as of late
Also one more quick thing. Due to the craziness of our piping. You all can see in the pic that follows that its a tight sqeeze for an turbo inlet filter. Our idea is to get a 90 or 45 silicon coupler and point it down and slap on a tiny air filter, not too tiny tho. All advice is appriciated
Just registered after a year of lurking. I'm doing the same route as you, going NA-T with the XS power kit and doing the TT ECU mod as well.
From the looks of it, I think you'll have a better time with the turbo clocked the opposite way but you'll need the coil on plugs. I brought coils myself for $64 on ebay so it's not that crazy, as well as a 3D printed cap for $38. Good luck with the build and keep at it!
Just registered after a year of lurking. I'm doing the same route as you, going NA-T with the XS power kit and doing the TT ECU mod as well.
From the looks of it, I think you'll have a better time with the turbo clocked the opposite way but you'll need the coil on plugs. I brought coils myself for $64 on ebay so it's not that crazy, as well as a 3D printed cap for $38. Good luck with the build and keep at it!
-Lu
Hey thanks and welcome! I was going to go that route with the turbo clocked down but when you look back in the thread the reason we went with the turbo clocked up was that the oil return fitting would hit the housing and the intercooler pipe from underneath so we said screw it and went from up top.
At least it looks funky lol good luck with your build!
Gotcha, I noticed when I read up with the last few posts.
So if you were to do it again for the oil lines, what would you have done differently? I didn't notice Ali's oil line kit or what he did. He ran the XS turbo kit for a good while too. I was planning on using the oil lines they provided but welding a 10an bung hose on the oil return since I had to take out the engine to redo the oil pan gaskets(both).
I have a bit to do to get to your stage and your thread has been very helpful.
Gotcha, I noticed when I read up with the last few posts.
So if you were to do it again for the oil lines, what would you have done differently? I didn't notice Ali's oil line kit or what he did. He ran the XS turbo kit for a good while too. I was planning on using the oil lines they provided but welding a 10an bung hose on the oil return since I had to take out the engine to redo the oil pan gaskets(both).
I have a bit to do to get to your stage and your thread has been very helpful.
-Lu
Okay so theres alot of factors that I didnt look into that well and it cost me around 300 to fix SO, first what size turbo you running?
Test fit the turbo and clock it and see how much play you will have between the turbo flange and the oil return. Further back in my thread you could see that my oil return fitting actually grinded against the turbo flange. So first go ahead and bolt the turbo onto the manifold, clock the turbo around 10-5 degrees clockwise (dont go past 15) and see how much space you have to use.
Next, your oil line may not be that great. The oil line I got was a simple rubber hose... some run that and more power to them so thats another factor you will have to consider.
I will post a picture of my current set up to give you an idea of how my finished line looks
I picked up the same turbo kit as you so same turbo and everything. Although it looks like they forgot a few bolts. Since I had to remove the engine, I'm giving her the works with a TB, TT-HG w/ ARP studs and resealing the oil pans. So I think I'll be welding a 10an bung for the return. I'll mock it up tomorrow before I get the head off to get more of an idea but I definitely don't want to waste more than I have to on the lines.
I picked up the same turbo kit as you so same turbo and everything. Although it looks like they forgot a few bolts. Since I had to remove the engine, I'm giving her the works with a TB, TT-HG w/ ARP studs and resealing the oil pans. So I think I'll be welding a 10an bung for the return. I'll mock it up tomorrow before I get the head off to get more of an idea but I definitely don't want to waste more than I have to on the lines.
-Lu
Would you be open to learning how to cut and make your own lines? Thats another part we ending up doing and it was actually quite easy. There are plenty of youtube videos online on how to do so and would explain it way better than me. But heres my advice if you have a matching set up
First find a good welder (not aircraft grade lol) and get a pipe welded onto the return fitting (the part that screws onto the return from the turbo) and also buy some AN line and some AN fittings that match your AN bungs. Then get an AN bung welded onto the pipe (as I did) and then get it all tightened, slap it on the engine and measure how much line you need and cut to length (measure 100 times, cut once as they say) then follow the youtube video instructions and boom now you know how to make your own AN lines and have a set up custom made by you!
I hope this advice was of some use to you, I reccomend doing this as you get to learn how to make your own lines and it really is satisfying to do so. Also since you removed the engine this should all be much easier for you!
If you have anymore questions just ask me or any one of the super helpful members on this fourm!
Alright guys so, I have until Wendsday to get this thing ready to tune. All thats left seems to be wiring and oil flushing and tune up stuff.
Im running a MAC valve solenoid and its going to go the AEM for boost control. Got an AEM wideband and MAP sensor along with GM IAT sensor.
If anyone has any advice for wiring this stuff up lemme know. I plan on tapping into the FPR for thr MAP sensor and Im placing the IAT sensor before the throttle body. Its just the wiring with the wideband and the solenoid that got me iffy rn.
Alright guys so, I have until Wendsday to get this thing ready to tune. All thats left seems to be wiring and oil flushing and tune up stuff.
Im running a MAC valve solenoid and its going to go the AEM for boost control. Got an AEM wideband and MAP sensor along with GM IAT sensor.
If anyone has any advice for wiring this stuff up lemme know. I plan on tapping into the FPR for thr MAP sensor and Im placing the IAT sensor before the throttle body. Its just the wiring with the wideband and the solenoid that got me iffy rn.
Hope to hear from yall soon thx!
Ready for tuning?! Nice work bud, you've come a long way on this!
Ready for tuning?! Nice work bud, you've come a long way on this!
Yess sir!! Turns out we shall just let the shop finish the wiring so that its done right and the way they like it. Then the tune will be wendsday and hopefully we will be good!
Also, question gentlemen. Since I drilled with the pan on, what can I use to flush it? As in is there any kind of cheap oil or is it just the cheapest 5W30 I can find? Also should I flush it from both the oil refill cap and thr oil return hose?
