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There would be no point to connect the WG & BOV to that since there is no boost/vacuum reference. The PCV serves to ventilate the crankcase. So if you want to keep it, you must connect that to a vacuum source also. The shiny black like shown to the left in this image is a good boost/vacuum source. The left of this image is the firewall.
the blue or red arrow?
Also what should I do with the PCV hose on the left since its not going to connect to the charge pipe? Just leave it loose or? The charge pipe doesnt have anywhere to connect it to. I wouldnt be able to have one PCV connected and have the other loose or something right?
You should do do something with it. You can remove the tube and put a breather filter on it, but it will leak oil because of the right angle. That’s why I removed it and replaced it with a vertical barb for the filter to attach to.
You should do do something with it. You can remove the tube and put a breather filter on it, but it will leak oil because of the right angle. That’s why I removed it and replaced it with a vertical barb for the filter to attach to.
Okay will do, by chance do you have a list of the parts I can use to change out the pvc to become vertical? Also heres a pic of the blue on my car Its T'd right now but I would just cap off what ever the T goes to right? Also this area i keep it how it is correct?
Also just to make sure I understand. Fliter the PVC on the left, and use the hose that was marked blue for the WG and BOV, correct?
Alright, I'll just cap off the line it went into on the right. I think I may just run a line off the pvc to a catch can for now.
Also, more issues again check it out Blue) Coupler is hitting the pipe for the oil return. Red) Due to the blue issue, you can see the housing does not go on all the way.
Issue after issue baby. But this is my first time so its expected lol
I used to shave some length off that coolant hose there that is touching the intercooler piping.
It will bring the hose closer to the block and give you a better angle on the shot to the turbo with the IC piping.
You can also remove that coolant outlet housing, shave the tab off, and flip it to give more room for the turbo piping.
If its full of coolant now, I would just shave some of the length off till its not touching and call it a day.
You can do it without draining the coolant if you just take a loose blade and cut like a quarter inch off at a time (like go around the hose like a ring while its still mounted), and then slide the hose up.
Repeat till you have enough clearance.
If there is no coolant in there, then just slide it off and cut off the right amount, or maybe even the coolant outlet housing flip.
on the return fitting, maybe you can just bent the return thing you made enough to not touch. It should not be touching that coupler, it will eventually melt through it.
I was also trying to understand what you are saying for the PCV and wg and bov lines, and got really confused.
I think you should look up how people are doing their PCV setups, it is completely unrelated from WG and BOV which just go to a regular vacuum/boost source.
If the PCV is setup incorrectly, that is the worst case scenario. I would run the 2 filters like in MMRJ2's pics, even if you connect it right (which is basically the way it was before) you will get oil in the intake and piping.
And never use the ports near the throttle body for any of that stuff, only off the intake manifold. If your turbo has a vacuum nipple coming off of it, use that one for the WG only.
I used to shave some length off that coolant hose there that is touching the ..... room for the turbo piping.
on the return fitting, maybe you can just bent the return thing you made enough to not touch. It should not be touching that coupler, it will eventually melt through it.
I was also trying to understand what you are saying for the PCV and wg and bov lines, and got really confused.
I think you should look up how..... it, use that one for the WG only.
Hey Ali!
Yeah me and my pops were thinking about that. Only issue is that as seen in the pic the coupler is a 90 and the IC pipe comes straight up.
The return pipe is aluminum and maybe we could find a way to bend it but it seems a reweld is in place.
So about the PCV and stuff. I sae that some people run bov and wg lines off some of the vaccum lines left after deleting the EGR system. So I thought that was in place to do. And in terms of the PCV Im thinking about just buying a catch can and running both lines or just one line and capping off the other.
Don't cap off PCV lines, as your crankcase will not breathe as it should and that could be detrimental to some of your engine seals under boost.
Also, when you deleted your EGR, did you do anything with your Intake Manifold butterfly valve? I would definitely make sure that you have a boost/vacuum line going to the butterfly valve so that you can maintain the torque that it affords you.
Don't cap off PCV lines, as your crankcase will not breathe as it should and that could be detrimental to some of your engine seals under boost.
Also, when you deleted your EGR, did you do anything with your Intake Manifold butterfly valve? I would definitely make sure that you have a boost/vacuum line going to the butterfly valve so that you can maintain the torque that it affords you.
Yes the butterfly valve was modifed its not modified.
Also by capping the pcv I meant the catch can. As catch cans have 2 holes made. I was gonna run the passenger side PCV to the can and cap off the other side as others have done before.
Also any advice on the turbo piping issue? Me and my dad think we are going to have to have the turbo outlet point up, route the piping from up there down to the intercooler to avoid anything goin wrong with the turbo return and such.
viny, the hard part is at the turbo compressor, shave the coolant hose so you have more space, put the 90 degree coupler on the turbo like in the picture, put the pipe into it and see where you can best get it to come down, then make an extra bend or rework the bends at the bottom where you have a bunch more space. on these cars you need to work from the turbo outlet not the other way around since that is where it is tight.
The pcv side hardly lets any crank case pressure out, so if that is the only thing going to the can and you cap the other side, you will spray oil everywhere and blow something pretty soon.
also the PCV closes under boost and only opens with vacuum, so the first time you boost there is no where for the pressure to go, it will back up the oil in the turbo, cook it, and blow the turbo, and then start to mess with the rings.
The most important side to vent is the passenger side without the PCV, this must have a filter on it, or go to a can with a filter, those are your only real options when turbo.
The PCV side you have a few options.
1) leave pcv in and connected to intake manifold exactly like stock. this will keep the PCV working, but only for low boost and will get oil in the intake etc.. get pistons carboned up etc.. fine for a normal car but not the best for a turbo setup.
2) remove the PCV and tap and install a fitting to put a filter on that side just like the passenger side.
3) remove the PCV and tap and install a fitting to run a hose to a can just like the passenger side.
there is no scenario where the PCV runs to a catch can, it needs vacuum to work so its essentially plugging it off if its not connected to the intake.
So most people choose to remove the PCV and run both sides to a can, or put a filter on both sides. if you have to leave the PCV on the drivers side (connected to the intake manfiold like stock), you must vent the passenger side with a filter or run the passenger side to a can that has a filter on it.
Do not cap anything generally speaking. it is rarely a good idea.
viny, the hard part is at the turbo compressor, shave the coolant hose so you have more space, put the 90 degree coupler on the turbo like in the picture, put the pipe into it and see where you can best get it to come down, then make an extra bend or rework the bends at the bottom where you have a bunch more space. on these cars you need to work from the turbo outlet not the other way around since that is where it is tight.
The pcv side hardly lets any crank case pressure out, so if that is the only thing going to the can and you cap the other side, you will spray oil everywhere and blow something pretty soon.
also the PCV closes under boost and only opens with vacuum, so the first time you boost there is no where for the pressure to go, it will back up the oil in the turbo, cook it, and blow the turbo, and then start to mess with the rings.
The most important side to vent is the passenger side without the PCV, this must have a filter on it, or go to a can with a filter, those are your only real options when turbo.
there is no scenario where the PCV runs to a catch can, it needs vacuum to work so its essentially plugging it off if its not connected to the intake.
So most people choose to remove the PCV and run both sides to a can, or put a filter on both sides. if you have to leave the PCV on the drivers side (connected to the intake manfiold like stock), you must vent the passenger side with a filter or run the passenger side to a can that has a filter on it.
Do not cap anything generally speaking. it is rarely a good idea.
Okay so if I understand correctly Ali, I have to run the PCV hose on the passenger side to a can with a filter in or on it and keep the PCV system of the driver side plugged in?
Also in terms of the intercooler tubing, I would shave down the radiator hose and stuff but the cost of rewelding the oil outlet pipe is too expensive so what my dad wants to do is run the turbo outlet pointed up, run a pipe off of it and have some of the pipe sticking out of the hood and re-aim it to the intercooler. this is just to make sure we have the system working. once it runs and works well we will fine-tune everything.
I don't think Im leaving too much out but if I am please do ask me any questions for clarification
I think you could have done it with just a 45 degree AN swivel fitting coming off the bottom of the turbo, you can tighten those down at the right angle it needs to be.
I wouldn't chop up the hood but its your call.
At first all you really need to do is leave the drivers side (the pcv side) stock, where there is the purple 90 degree fitting and run that hose to the intake manifold just like stock.
AND on the passenger side which is just that black 90 degree fitting, run a hose from that to a can, and put a filter on the can.
I think you could have done it with just a 45 degree AN swivel fitting coming off the bottom of the turbo, you can tighten those down at the right angle it needs to be.
I wouldn't chop up the hood but its your call.
At first all you really need to do is leave the drivers side (the pcv side) stock, where there is the purple 90 degree fitting and run that hose to the intake manifold just like stock.
AND on the passenger side which is just that black 90 degree fitting, run a hose from that to a can, and put a filter on the can.
That was the plan originally but the turbos oil return flange was so close to the T4 flange that it wouldve been rubbing right against it. Not only that but with 45 degree swivel, the oil line would rest on the manifold itself. So this was sadly one of the only options available.
Also gotcha okay, so I do understand for once lol so I'll see where I can but a can and filter for the passenger side line then
You can also skip the can and filter if you put the filter right on the valve cover like in the picture above, just for the passenger side.
This thread I made a while back has some good info in it, look at post 13. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...catch-can.html