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Installed the head, camshafts, oil pump, front seal, rear seal housing and seal, cam gears, timing belt tensioner, crankshaft gear, timing belt, oil filter housing, drilled and tapped oil union bolt, shorter exhaust manifold studs, and both coolant temp sensors.
Need to install oil pan, EGR cooling plate gasket, and all the covers. I've decided to do a new set of valve covers since I didn't prep the first set as well as I would have liked to.
Getting to this point was was extremely frustrating. The exhaust bolts weren’t bolts anymore, they were more like rust blobs which needed to be cut off. Once the bolts were removed (cut off). I found that the MKIV mid-pipe is about 2.5” too long. I’ll be remedying that tonight.
Installed the manifold with the wastegate dump port pointing directly at the motor mount. The screw and bolt for the WG clamp are in the worse possible position, so turning the wastegate was an hour long affair.
I ordered the CXRacing Intercooler kit because it was supposed to be plug and play with no cutting required. Some of it seems to deliver on that promise, but my install will require a bit of reworking of the pipe routing. Hoping to have that done tonight also.
The oil line and fittings that I ran a few weeks ago were perfect. I will be starting the car up tonight.
Keep up the good work, Where did you get the crankcase breather filter set up you've got? it looks a lot better than mine with a hose on the stock pvc going to one of those little filters
Keep up the good work, Where did you get the crankcase breather filter set up you've got? it looks a lot better than mine with a hose on the stock pvc going to one of those little filters
Purchased a rear sump oil pan from a guy on Facebook and at found that it had two broken screws in it. No biggie. A self-centering drill bit, a bit of oil, a screw extractor, and 5 minutes later both screws were removed.
Then applied the FIPG to the upper pan and installed the o-ring to the block and placed the pan on the block. Next installed the rest of the pan parts and screws.
Next I installed the serpentine belt tensioner and the middle timing cover. Then it was time to swap out the 6176 turbo for the T67 I bought for this project. When I removed the oil drain from the old turbo, the hose came loose from the fitting, so I had to take some time to put that back together. Clocked the new turbo correctly and changed the way that the drain is setup. Since the oil pan was from a 1JZ, it was already drilled out and tapped correctly, so that was easy.
Lastly, I took some time to clean most of the trash that was accumulated from the build out of the garage. Also since the engine is closed up, I swept up the saw dust. All that is left is to remove the alternator from the old engine and put it onto the new engine. Also have to find a way to tighten the harmonic balancer... The Fluidamper had a 3 bolt pattern whereas the original damper had two bolts. Why does that matter? Well the tool that I bought to do the damper is configured for two bolts instead of three...
What do you use to hold these things? I have to tighten it to 239 ft/lb... No way to do that without a method to hold it in place.
I'll have to tighten the Harmonic Balancer bolt once the engine is in the car. Put the car in gear and then tighten it.
Got my valve covers back from being powder coated yesterday. Put the new gaskets in them and placed them on the engine (new screws on order). They look great!
Can't wait to get this engine done... Supposed to get it swapped into the car next weekend!
Marcus, the progress is looking very nice! That engine is looking better and better!
Regarding the harmonic dampener pulley, you can tighten that with the engine on a stand. I think it is much easier to with the engine out than in.
You should have the right crank pulley tool-- a Schlley #64300. That tool has only two bolts to go into the OEM crank pulley so whether it's that model or a knockoff you have the right thing.
For bracing, use a breaker bar to go into that tool and put a metal cheater bar onto that. Ideally a friend should help you by bracing that bar while you apply torque to the bolt. Alternatively you can lay the bar with cheater onto the concrete surface on your garage floor to brace the crank dampener in place while you apply torque with a big torque wrench. With an engine stand that is in a "T" rather than a "V" configuration I'd still get a friend to brace the engine itself using this alternative method just to make sure nothing topples. The engine always turns clockwise so whatever pulley bracing method you use you just don't want to crank it in the other direction.
For the torque wrench, if you don't already have one capable of up to 250ft-lbs or more, I found the cheapest decent one in that range is sold by Tekton. When you apply the required 239 ft-lbs you also will need a second cheater bar slipped onto the torque wrench for more leverage.
With two people on both cheater bars it makes this step much easier and faster.
Marcus, the progress is looking very nice! That engine is looking better and better!
Regarding the harmonic dampener pulley, you can tighten that with the engine on a stand. I think it is much easier to with the engine out than in.
You should have the right crank pulley tool-- a Schlley #64300. That tool has only two bolts to go into the OEM crank pulley so whether it's that model or a knockoff you have the right thing.
For bracing, use a breaker bar to go into that tool and put a metal cheater bar onto that. Ideally a friend should help you by bracing that bar while you apply torque to the bolt. Alternatively you can lay the bar with cheater onto the concrete surface on your garage floor to brace the crank dampener in place while you apply torque with a big torque wrench. With an engine stand that is in a "T" rather than a "V" configuration I'd still get a friend to brace the engine itself using this alternative method just to make sure nothing topples. The engine always turns clockwise so whatever pulley bracing method you use you just don't want to crank it in the other direction.
For the torque wrench, if you don't already have one capable of up to 250ft-lbs or more, I found the cheapest decent one in that range is sold by Tekton. When you apply the required 239 ft-lbs you also will need a second cheater bar slipped onto the torque wrench for more leverage.
With two people on both cheater bars it makes this step much easier and faster.
Hey Kahn, thanks!
So I do have the Schlley tool, it made it really easy to remove the original pulley, but the Fluidampr has three bolts in a triangular pattern instead of the normal 2 bolts. I'm sure I could fab something up to hold the pulley in place, though...
Finally got the engine into the car! The hardest part was getting the slip yoke into the transmission, it really helped to have my brother here to help me out.
So now I need to do the following before I start it:
- Tighten bolts for motor mounts
- Clock turbo to clear frame
- Install power steering line to pump and refill with ATF
- Screw fuel damper to block
- Connect fuel lines to rail
- Connect vacuum to brake booster
- Connect all grounds to block and starter
- Connect and install coils
- Secure igniter to frame and clean up any loose wiring
- Install O2 sensors and turbo vBand
- Add Oil to engine
- Add gear Oil to transmission
- Install radiator and lines & Fill with coolant
Seems like a lot, but it can be done relatively quickly! I'm pretty excited at this point!
Looking good in there! Take your time and give everything a double check on your to-do list which will get shorter and shorter every day Excited for you!
Looking good in there! Take your time and give everything a double check on your to-do list which will get shorter and shorter every day Excited for you!
And 2200cc injectors?? Wowzers
Yessir! I'm trying to contain my excitement
2200cc because they were a good price and can grow with me.
Originally Posted by gerrb
almost there
good progress !
Thanks Gerry! Also thanks again for your help with my build!
Finally got the engine into the car! The hardest part was getting the slip yoke into the transmission, it really helped to have my brother here to help me out.
So now I need to do the following before I start it:
- Tighten bolts for motor mounts
- Clock turbo to clear frame
- Install power steering line to pump and refill with ATF
- Screw fuel damper to block
- Connect fuel lines to rail
- Connect vacuum to brake booster
- Connect all grounds to block and starter
- Connect and install coils
- Secure igniter to frame and clean up any loose wiring
- Install O2 sensors and turbo vBand
- Add Oil to engine
- Add gear Oil to transmission
- Install radiator and lines & Fill with coolant
Seems like a lot, but it can be done relatively quickly! I'm pretty excited at this point!
How she sits right now
All that's left of that list is:
- Install the rest of the intake piping (TB, Y pipe, IC Piping)
- Add Oil to engine
- Add gear Oil to transmission
- Install radiator and lines & Fill with coolant
Then I can start it up! Tomorrow is going to be nice so I plan to complete this then
I also ordered the ShiftGasm bushings for my W58. Those bushings will be here on Monday, so I'll install those bushings and refill the transmission(since I have a non-tripod W58) at the same time). I'm thinking that it will be ok to start the engine (and not drive) without gear oil.
After the initial startup, I will also be doing the following:
- Replacing the battery terminals
- Replacing the fuel pump ECU
- Adding a 40A fuel pump relay
- Replacing the fuel pump
11-20-18, 03:12 PM
