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Love the audio setup! How difficult was the install? Planning on doing a similar setup on my SC in the future here
The front speakers were pretty easy.
The rear deck speakers were a pain... The 4" > 6.5" adapters were pretty much an exact fit, but getting the screws in to mount them (especially the ones in the far corners closest to the window) to the deck were a problem... Patience is key.
The subwoofer requires a bit of ingenuity. I had to trim the existing plastic mounting ring. That would've probably been easier if I had just made my own ring from MDF. Then the metal mounting ring, the one that secures the 3rd brake light, had to be re-drilled so that the subwoofer could be completely mounted.
The wiring was really easy. The power wire I ran down the side of the car. The signal wires and remote wire were run down the top of the transmission tunnel right into the dash. I used the front door wires that were already there to connect to the 4 channel amp, ran new wires to the rear deck speakers. Left the stock tweeters and used the low pass filter on the amp to make sure that no bass made it to those speakers.
Started preparing for the NA-t upgrade. Here is my task list:
- Replace Valve Cover Gaskets
- Install Cometic GTE head gasket
- Install Oil Filter Flange O-ring and ensure that all other bolts are sealed appropriately
- Drill & Tap the Union Bolt for the Oil feed
- Drill the Pan for the return line
- Clean and paint the throttle body, intake pieces, and valve covers
- EGR Delete
Still chugging along with the HG replacement project... Day 2 was mostly aesthetics:
Painted valve covers using truck bed liner, repainted the Lexus timing belt cover with a very light gold, throttle body & visible top pieces of the intake manifold painted silver (not pictured).
Removed the camshafts
Removed the head, and spent about 10 hours scraping the old head gasket off of the block and head... I think I’ll pay if this has to be done again. Placed the new HG in place and screwed the ARP studs in place. Waiting on the appropriate 12 point socket to fit the ARP nuts... Neither the 14mm or 13mm that were recommended fit...
Anyway, there are two broken bolts in the head... One of the EGR tube bolts broke and one of the VC bolts... So I’m waiting on the appropriate tools to remove those.
While I was waiting, I did the oil drain
Next, I’ll continue to clean off the block... There was a really bad coolant leak down there... This car had so many leaks!
So I hit a snag today... I was able to remove the broken valve cover bolt, but when it came to the EGR bolt, I just made it worse... I feel like crap... I mean I really messed this screw hole up. I’m not sure what to do. I feel like there are a few options:
1) buy a new head... Would rather not do that
2) Tap the EGR hole and put a big (15mm) screw/plug into it - I’m deleting the EGR anyway.
I went on vacation and haven’t updated the thread since I returned! I got the car put back together and running. I used a freeze plug in the head to block the EGR tube port.
This is how it looks right now:
Since getting the car up and running, I have noticed that it doesn’t come back to idle normally.
It runs and drives really well, very strong. When coming to a stop, though, the idle will intermittently drop down to about 300 and then jump back up to a normal 650 RPM. Many times, the car will stall from that low idle. The issue seems vacuum related, as the idle sounds much better when i remove a vacuum cap...
My current list of mods are:
- GTE ECU Mod - VVTI Coilpacks, Aristo ECU, 500CC osidetiger injectors, DS62 Igniter, GTE Map Sensor, GM IAT, Iridium BKR7EIX11 plugs
- EGR Delete
- GTE Head Gasket
- ARP Head Studs
- PCV valve removed in favor of crank case breather filter.
The fuse for your amp power wire looks like it's hooked up in the trunk at the amps. It needs to be less than 18" fromt he battery, disregard this if I'm seeing it wrong but I'd hate to see your car burn down.
The fuse for your amp power wire looks like it's hooked up in the trunk at the amps. It needs to be less than 18" fromt he battery, disregard this if I'm seeing it wrong but I'd hate to see your car burn down.
You are right. I’m going to fix that this week also. Thanks for the reminder.
Since you had the throttle body off I would start there looking for a leak. I just put this in another thread yesterday, but check around the throttle body with some brake cleaner and see if you get a response. Vacuum hoses too, check anything, it doesn't take much. If not a leak, check the IACV connection.
Since you had the throttle body off I would start there looking for a leak. I just put this in another thread yesterday, but check around the throttle body with some brake cleaner and see if you get a response. Vacuum hoses too, check anything, it doesn't take much. If not a leak, check the IACV connection.
Ok, I'll do that.
I replaced the IACV harness connector... Funny thing, I removed the connector while the car was running and there was no change in the idle.
I also replaced all the vacuum lines with silicone and plugged all the unused vacuum ports on the throttle body and intake.
04-10-18, 06:12 AM
