Yotafun's 1993 SC400 a.k.a Project Fluffy
#16
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
yotafun, good luck on the exhaust man. I just went through this with my land cruiser (well, not quite as bad as yours, but very rusty). I literally replaced 100% of it.
I just got back into an SC (98 SC400) and am fixing a lot of stuff. it sucks.
but isn't it a good feeling re-doing it and seeing how nice and "properly done" it is?
I just got back into an SC (98 SC400) and am fixing a lot of stuff. it sucks.
but isn't it a good feeling re-doing it and seeing how nice and "properly done" it is?
#17
Thanks for putting this great car back on the road. The reward is indeed the happiness of seeing it come back to life.
Are you planning on replacing control arm bushings? Given the price of the arms, I've wondered why folks aren't replacing bushings instead.
Fix that power steering leak soon, or you'll be replacing the alternator.
-Tim
Are you planning on replacing control arm bushings? Given the price of the arms, I've wondered why folks aren't replacing bushings instead.
Fix that power steering leak soon, or you'll be replacing the alternator.
-Tim
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Yotafun (04-07-18)
#18
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thanks for putting this great car back on the road. The reward is indeed the happiness of seeing it come back to life.
Are you planning on replacing control arm bushings? Given the price of the arms, I've wondered why folks aren't replacing bushings instead.
Fix that power steering leak soon, or you'll be replacing the alternator.
-Tim
Are you planning on replacing control arm bushings? Given the price of the arms, I've wondered why folks aren't replacing bushings instead.
Fix that power steering leak soon, or you'll be replacing the alternator.
-Tim
I have read about the pump, I cleaned up everything as best I could and it stayed dry for about a day..., I am looking to try to rebuild the pump but I haven't seen any threads on here about doing it or if anyone has been successful...
#19
#20
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/steer...mprebuild.html
There is no noise coming from the pump so I was just going to do a seal kit.
I am not looking to spend money on dealer parts and found a rebuild kit off rockauto.
Worth a shot, just hadn't read any success stories.
#21
I found this one:
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/steer...mprebuild.html
There is no noise coming from the pump so I was just going to do a seal kit.
I am not looking to spend money on dealer parts and found a rebuild kit off rockauto.
Worth a shot, just hadn't read any success stories.
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/steer...mprebuild.html
There is no noise coming from the pump so I was just going to do a seal kit.
I am not looking to spend money on dealer parts and found a rebuild kit off rockauto.
Worth a shot, just hadn't read any success stories.
I just had my PS pump replaced, with new lines and a new alternator. Not enough time or resources to do it myself, unlike you - you are a machine!
-Tim
Last edited by tsmith1315; 04-08-18 at 08:01 PM. Reason: no good reason
#22
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Yep, that's the article I was thinking of. I agree, I wish I could have done a rebuild myself. Check your lines and fittings to be sure it's leaking at the pump.
I just had my PS pump replaced, with new lines and a new alternator. Not enough time or resources to do it myself, unlike you - you are a machine!
-Tim
I just had my PS pump replaced, with new lines and a new alternator. Not enough time or resources to do it myself, unlike you - you are a machine!
-Tim
I wish the progress was a bit faster, but other projects in the fleet are getting some needed love. I at least need one of my vehicles to work right so I can get to work lol!
#23
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Long time no update...
Have a slight deadline to get this thing fully road worthy and registered now.
First thing is getting the exhaust sorted. It isn't pretty but it doesn't leak!
First I had to drill out the broken stud on the back of the manifolds:
So I can't find my pictures, but when I removed the exhaust and CATs, I found that there were done and gone, so I installed some o2 sensor spacers for the time being to keep the CEL at bay.
Also my buddy did his best to clean up and weld close the horrible welds the previous guy did, but there was still a pin hole so I had to add some metal putty.
Then to make sure there was no leaks, I did some exhaust wrap on the area to hopefully keep everything in place and at bay.
Then I got some new gaskets:
The flanges were shot, that is why they were welded together to being with, I cleaned them up the best I could but with so little material left, I needed a little extra material to take up the difference, I will get a picture later but at least the exhaust is back on and the car runs!
Have a slight deadline to get this thing fully road worthy and registered now.
First thing is getting the exhaust sorted. It isn't pretty but it doesn't leak!
First I had to drill out the broken stud on the back of the manifolds:
So I can't find my pictures, but when I removed the exhaust and CATs, I found that there were done and gone, so I installed some o2 sensor spacers for the time being to keep the CEL at bay.
Also my buddy did his best to clean up and weld close the horrible welds the previous guy did, but there was still a pin hole so I had to add some metal putty.
Then to make sure there was no leaks, I did some exhaust wrap on the area to hopefully keep everything in place and at bay.
Then I got some new gaskets:
The flanges were shot, that is why they were welded together to being with, I cleaned them up the best I could but with so little material left, I needed a little extra material to take up the difference, I will get a picture later but at least the exhaust is back on and the car runs!
#24
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
After finally getting the car running again I could test to see if the new coolant temp sensor I installed would fix the cluster gauge not working...
It did but a little too well.... It would go to operating temp after like 10 seconds of running and then would peg past the red when warm.
I decided to give it a shot an install a temp sensor from one of my 4Runner engines to see if maybe I got a bad sensor.
First I made a test wire since the 4.0 sensor has a tiny pin in a circular connector.
But then when I went to unplug the sensor this happen:
So I just stripped the end of the wire and installed the sensor and I am now good to go!
I don't know if it was the breaking wire or the sensor itself, I think it was the sensor itself, one thing I noticed is that the Toyota sensor I installed had some kind of coating on it and the one I bought and installed didn't.
It did but a little too well.... It would go to operating temp after like 10 seconds of running and then would peg past the red when warm.
I decided to give it a shot an install a temp sensor from one of my 4Runner engines to see if maybe I got a bad sensor.
First I made a test wire since the 4.0 sensor has a tiny pin in a circular connector.
But then when I went to unplug the sensor this happen:
So I just stripped the end of the wire and installed the sensor and I am now good to go!
I don't know if it was the breaking wire or the sensor itself, I think it was the sensor itself, one thing I noticed is that the Toyota sensor I installed had some kind of coating on it and the one I bought and installed didn't.
#25
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Working on also fixing a few little things, bought a new screen and bulbs and my buddy was able to help me out and soldered it in, nice to have a visual!
Then I have been trying to get the radio working since it would not power up. Coincidentally while looking for any blown fuses, I found that the dome fuse was blown, replaced that and the power locks and the steering column adjustments sprung to life Score!
However, when I replaced the radio fuse it blew instantly. At first I thought it may have been the radio itself till I got the wiring diagram out and started digging. The previous owner really did a number. I found this when searching for the amp, I also chucked the CD changer since when I went to remove it to get to the amp, all the pieces inside rolled around -_- I will get back to it after I have another project completed.
Also in my search for the amp wiring I found the ABS sensor unplugged, I plugged it back in and the ABS light is out and it works!
Then I have been trying to get the radio working since it would not power up. Coincidentally while looking for any blown fuses, I found that the dome fuse was blown, replaced that and the power locks and the steering column adjustments sprung to life Score!
However, when I replaced the radio fuse it blew instantly. At first I thought it may have been the radio itself till I got the wiring diagram out and started digging. The previous owner really did a number. I found this when searching for the amp, I also chucked the CD changer since when I went to remove it to get to the amp, all the pieces inside rolled around -_- I will get back to it after I have another project completed.
Also in my search for the amp wiring I found the ABS sensor unplugged, I plugged it back in and the ABS light is out and it works!
#26
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
So to get this thing road worth, I need to get the lower control arm bushings replaced, it is way to scary to drive without they are shot!
In typical rust belt action, the rear eccentrics are seized in collar of the bushing. I tried to sawzall them out while in the car and was having no luck.
then I discovered this!
It comes out! so now I can use other sources of tools to get the arms out, I already have new eccentrics on order.
Also you can see the wonderful exhaust gaskets I have lol they don't leak!
In typical rust belt action, the rear eccentrics are seized in collar of the bushing. I tried to sawzall them out while in the car and was having no luck.
then I discovered this!
It comes out! so now I can use other sources of tools to get the arms out, I already have new eccentrics on order.
Also you can see the wonderful exhaust gaskets I have lol they don't leak!
#27
Man what a disaster! But hey it was cheap and when youre done you could easily flip it.. But dont do that keep it and love the car. They are fantastic, comfortable on the road but can hang in the turns when the suspension isnt shot.
#28
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
And about the suspension.... its shot, like I didn't realize how shot it was till I was working on removing the arms, no fluid is left in any of the shocks...
So, before anyone bashes me on this, please read through the thread and understand this build is on the cheap, I will probably be getting these coil overs to correct the blown suspension issue... https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/Coilo...MaAi1DEALw_wcB
#29
I just recently put a used set of Tein cruising masters on my car i got for $300 and a bit of a road trip and they retailed for something like 1,400 originally. Id go used high quality vs new low quality if at all possible as long as you're not buying blown-out coils. Check craigslist etc and see if you can find partouts or spend a week or two searching ebay before you pull the trigger on buying those.
But i have heard ok-ish reviews of those ones you linked but id be concerned about longevity if they only last a year they werent really worth saving the $ to spend it twice ya know? Not trying to bash on you at all youre doing great work on that car. just stating my opinion. Suspension and tires.. The things that keep your car on the road.. Kind of a big job with the way many of us choose to drive our fine pieces of japanese craftsmanship. If oem equivalent "non performance" struts cost 350+ for a set with top mounts how can a $218 "performance" coilover be made well and to last?
Either way i am glad to be seeing your car come back from a basket case to road worthy again. Mine was much less drastic the problems came over the course of a few months with only a couple there when i bought it.
But i have heard ok-ish reviews of those ones you linked but id be concerned about longevity if they only last a year they werent really worth saving the $ to spend it twice ya know? Not trying to bash on you at all youre doing great work on that car. just stating my opinion. Suspension and tires.. The things that keep your car on the road.. Kind of a big job with the way many of us choose to drive our fine pieces of japanese craftsmanship. If oem equivalent "non performance" struts cost 350+ for a set with top mounts how can a $218 "performance" coilover be made well and to last?
Either way i am glad to be seeing your car come back from a basket case to road worthy again. Mine was much less drastic the problems came over the course of a few months with only a couple there when i bought it.
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Yotafun (03-04-19)
#30
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Unfortunately the time line to get this thing on the road is the end of March, so holding out for a used set might not be an option at the moment.
If they last a year I will be more then thrilled, I just need it to get down the road.
I am going to keep the struts and install new shocks in them eventually, if my research is correct (you never know, can't believe everything on the internet lol) it seems the aftermarket coil overs are way stiffer over factory, I don't want to break my back, I already have my trail truck for that lol!
If they last a year I will be more then thrilled, I just need it to get down the road.
I am going to keep the struts and install new shocks in them eventually, if my research is correct (you never know, can't believe everything on the internet lol) it seems the aftermarket coil overs are way stiffer over factory, I don't want to break my back, I already have my trail truck for that lol!