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Posts here will be of the DIY type and I'll detail things I didn't find easily on the site.
UPDATE: two years later this is turning into build thread. I didn't see that coming but feel free to read along.
2013 2IS-350 F-Sport has 52,xxx mi and needs customization to call it my own.
Preliminary to do list looks like this:
Replace the HID bulbs as it turns off when warm. because of the car being under warranty I talked them dealer into handing over PN "81107-53501, COMPUTER SUB-ASSY, H" just in case.
Install new plugs.
Change the A760E fluid as WOT shifts are not as firm as I'd expect and I fear the fluid may be compromised. At a minimum, it needs inspected. Likely use OEM fluid until warranty runs out.
Contact the maker and find out if the A760E trans has an available update to aid its shift quality and reduce the paddle lag.
Change the rear diff fluid to synthetic.
Update Navigation unit from its 2012 install. Looks like PT219-HDD07-16 (Master USB SST LEXD-HDD07-16) is the the one but.... Site shows $160 purchase and hopefully self install??
New rear skins as the 255/40R18 are naked.
Install IS-F rear anti-sway bar
After cleaning inside and out 2013-08
tag JJD952
Last edited by 2013FSport; 10-21-20 at 04:50 PM.
Reason: IDK!
Hey thanks,
Mainly because the understeer is minimal and most miles are highway and perhaps some less than ideal roads. It seems like a good compromise without reducing the ride quality too much. Of course part of the need is purely for traction as the electronics are overly aggressive (IMO). Too bad an LSD is $2k.
Let us call it a starting point!
FWIW: its seems some sites list the PN as 06 - 08 and then go on to list 09-14. Seems strange...
This lists 08 - 14... I'm going with it... parts.autonationtoyotasouthaustin.com/oem-parts/lexus-stabilizer-bar-4881230400
Last edited by 2013FSport; 08-15-17 at 06:06 PM.
Reason: added content
Plugs are in. Pretty easy took about 45" as I cleaned and inspected along the way.
Left side is best done by unbolting the wire loom brackets at each end of the valve cover. Then pry the loom clip from the plastic manifold. Each COP comes out when the loom is pushed away a small amount. Right side just has the accordion hose to remove and the plugs are easily accessed. I highly recommend using an extension with the partial wobble built it. It makes getting the LF #2 COP out a lot easier.
Speaking of right side. #5 Rear plug was not like the others. It was slightly loose and had an oil film and more deposits on the ground straps.
Anyone pull the TB to clean that mesh trap behind the butterfly?
As found the new #4705 were at 0.038" (supposed to be 0.040"). I set them at 0.044", checking with a round wire gauge set, and setting with a precious metal plug tool designed to not contact the plug tip.
FWIW the Denso 4705 (IKBH20TT) is nearly 40% cheaper than the 3473 (FK20HBR11).
Other than the price, there are two changes, one is the OEM gap which is almost always off anyways and should be adjusted with the proper tool made for precious metal plugs, and the electrode diameter. The 20TT 4705 has a 0.40mm electrode and the BR11 3473 has a 0.55mm diameter. That's a difference of 0.0059". IMO, 20,000 volts is not going to care about this and I've got 49,900 miles on the 350 with the 4705 plug in them. Both are rated at 100,000 mile plugs.
Do as you see fit as far a choice goes, but I highly recommend people check and adjust the gaps. There is nothing that says you can't you just use the right tool that doesn't touch the easily damaged precious metal tips. Use a round wire gauge for checking the gap.
Also, I'd guess these are all original at 52,2xx mi.
Last edited by 2013FSport; 09-13-20 at 04:11 PM.
Reason: Added info...
Plugs are in. Pretty easy took about 45" as I cleaned and inspected along the way.
Left side is best done by unbolting the wire loom brackets at each end of the valve cover. Then pry the loom clip from the plastic manifold. Each COP comes out when the loom is pushed away a small amount.
Right side just has the accordion hose to remove and the plugs are easily accessed.
Speaking of right side. #5 Rear plug was not like the others. It was slightly loose and had an oil film and more deposits on the ground straps.
Anyone pull the TB to clean that mesh trap behind the butterfly?
I highly recommend using an extension with the partial wobble built it. It makes getting the LF #2 COP out a lot easier.
FWIW: Gapped all new plugs at 0.044". They were Denso #4705 at 0.038" (supposed to be 0.040")...
Also, I'd guess these are all original at 52,2xx mi.
I got the Denso TT's are these okay? What happens if the gap is 0.044?
Gap is supposed to be 0.044".
Engine is happy with TT. Very responsive with new plugs.
The 4705 / IKBH20TT is the same heat range, reach, 0.4mm Iridium tip as the $16 plug. Both are rated at 80k to 100k mi... If I still have it in 50k I'll be looking at them for engine health and if there, I'll replace them.
Apparently paying an extra $7.50 for plug Gapped at 0.044"?? Whaaaaa?
IS-F bar came. Yoda HID modules and Morimoto 5500K bulbs are here... Now to make time for install.
******* has Where used tool and shows the bushings and brackets are the same PN for bar so it seems it should bolt in without additional parts.
edit why do certain sites words get blocked?? WTF???
Bar installed. Yet to push it into a corner. FWIW bar turn out out on IS-F is parallel to end links while the IS-350 is 90° to accommodate floor pan.
It has nearly 3" of clearance and unless lowered/loaded to the hilt it will likely never rotate far enough to hit floor pan. End links look the same but I swapped mine as they resisted rotation more than used IS-F parts.
EDIT:
Rear OEM = 15mm, IS-F bar = 19mm spring rate is unknown.
Front OEM = 28.6 mm OD.
Bar helps understeer. Worth the $70 paid...
Anyone with F-Sport 18" Twin 5 Spoke wheels that need touch up to that charcoal gray metallic, grab this:
Dupli-Color ACC 0414
Application is Chrysler PDR Graphite (M)
I take no credit for this find but another member said it matched so I tried it to cover the white rash... It is a Good match for pen and brush applicator...
Note: Hold pen upright for both color and clear applications....
>> Reset Service Light:
With engine on, set trip meter to ODO.
Turn Engine off. Push and hold ODO and start car, continue holding trip until each segment zero's. 000000 and maintenance light turns off.
>> Power Window Reset after Battery Disconnect:
If the drivers door control no longer controls the other three windows, go to each window controller;
Power the window to the top.
Power window all the way down holding the switch a few seconds after the window bottoms.
Power the window all the way up holding the switch a few seconds after it tops out. Repeat on remaining windows.
Verify drivers door has control.
>> Smart Key Unlock all doors one press:
Default mode is one click opens drivers door (or door touch), two clicks unlocks all doors.
On key fob and when in range of car push and hold both lock and unlock simultaneously for about 5 seconds. Car Chirps repeatedly.
If drivers door is opened, all doors open. If Fob is pushed once, all doors unlock. Car chirps 4X.
To return to single door/single button press, push both buttons for 5 sec.
>> Trac/VDIM/VSC disable (turns off upon next start):
Disable traction control/stability control VDIM until restart engine:
With car stopped, engine on, press and hold the Trac until the TRAC OFF is displayed. ** do so at your own risk....**
The other option is the pedal dance before startup which seems to do the same as above but the steering is heavier.
Car off, E-Brake depressed, start the car, let off the brake.
Press Brake Pedal twice and hold it down.
While keeping brake down, Release and depress E-Brake twice.
That should enable the sliding car icon. If it doesn't repeat cycle.
>> 2IS Hidden Wiper Delay Features, continuous speed to interval when stopped - hands free!
In short our cars offer a wiper feature to go from full on no delay while in motion to delay wiper mode when stopped without you doing a thing!!
To enable wiper delay while stopped:
Car is on,it's raining hard, wipers on in the continuous speed setting (no delay); stalk down 2 clicks.
Turn the rotary delay **** to either the shortest or longest delay and leave it there for a second.
Turn the rotary delay **** from current position to the full opposite position and back to the original position.
-
About 2 seconds after you come to a complete stop, the wipers will go from continuous speed, to delay interval while the car is stopped. Once moving, they return to continuous operation. Car does not have rain sensor auto wipe function.
Observation:
If you move the rotary dial or turn the car off, the process has to be repeated. What year this applies too? I don't know. I looked in the 2013 electronic manual and it does not mention this feature, so you may or may not have it. Give it a shot as it's pretty nice during rain season!
Note: I'm pretty sure this does not apply to Rain-Sensing Wipers Systems
>> OEM F-Sport Split 5 Spoke details:
Pattern = 5 X 114.3mm
Front - 8.0 X 18" w/45mm offset factory 225/40R18
Rear - 8.5 X 18"w/50mm offset factory 255/40R18 PN: 42611-WY080
Hub Bore 60.1mm
Phones That Work with 2013 OEM Bluetooth:
Android: SS Galaxy S7, SS Galaxy S10
iPhone 6 Plus, iPhone 11
Last edited by 2013FSport; 09-13-20 at 03:36 PM.
Reason: Added window reset, add Wiper tip
08-08-17, 07:08 PM
2013 USB IS-350 F-Sport slow build
Please Confirm 2008 IS-F rear Stabilizer Bar Fits Gen2 IS-350
Plugs at 52k miles
Car does not have rain sensor auto wipe function.