FSport's IS-350 running list of service & maintenance DIY
#32
Instructor
iTrader: (1)
I had my tranny flushed around 100k as well as spark plugs because I don't know if they were ever changed before I did them. My car is going in for fuel damper recall next week I'm going to get them to change the diff fluid as well. I'm at 108km now so I'm expecting my water pump to get tired soon
#33
Racer
^ almost at 150k kms and water pump is still holding out. Got the replacement one but have been procrastinating the installation.
^^ Also highly agree with the transmission flush! Haven't seen any more members getting transmission problems recently but better safe than sorry!
^^ Also highly agree with the transmission flush! Haven't seen any more members getting transmission problems recently but better safe than sorry!
#35
Lead Lap
iTrader: (13)
I recommend the Mobil 75W-90 LS for the differential. I have 30k on it now no problems for Front, and rear Diffs.
#36
At 50K my tranny fluid was black probably means nothing. I drained it, and filled it a couple of times to get it fully red again. Fast forward to 200 miles short of 80k. I did another drain and fill just to see the condition. The fluid was dark, but not nasty like the first time. It was dark red at the most and still looked new. Maybe I'll switch it out to Amsoil at around 110k. I used the AISIN WS fluid vs OEM Toyo this time around. It's cheaper getting it from RockAuto.com.
I recommend the Mobil 75W-90 LS for the differential. I have 30k on it now no problems for Front, and rear Diffs.
I recommend the Mobil 75W-90 LS for the differential. I have 30k on it now no problems for Front, and rear Diffs.
If black and smells burned that is a huge deal. You'll know a burned smell if put your nose in it.
Fingers crossed all is well.
Our work has a machine shop, its temping to machine a longer over flow tube and say start threading it out until it trickles at 185°F. Then I need a vacuum for mess free install. But we would have a ball park figure on normal temp fluid fill volume.
#37
Lead Lap
iTrader: (13)
If black and smells burned that is a huge deal. You'll know a burned smell if put your nose in it.
Fingers crossed all is well.
Our work has a machine shop, its temping to machine a longer over flow tube and say start threading it out until it trickles at 185°F. Then I need a vacuum for mess free install. But we would have a ball park figure on normal temp fluid fill volume.
Fingers crossed all is well.
Our work has a machine shop, its temping to machine a longer over flow tube and say start threading it out until it trickles at 185°F. Then I need a vacuum for mess free install. But we would have a ball park figure on normal temp fluid fill volume.
I guess I'm lucky I have an AWD. The drain, and fill is exactly 4 qts every time. I think it's like 9.8 or so QTS max fill for the trans.
For the RWD it's probably best to get it fluid exchanged all at once.
#38
350 is in for recall work on the bag and fuel rail. Through a different service advisor I asked about trans fluid replacement and that's $300 service for four quarts of fluid. He said they make one pass and this didn't include a new filter and gasket. What a joke!!!! I said no.
Per the fuel rail recall thread there was talk of car washing, vacuuming and topping off the tank. I declined the wash, car is clean inside, and with the 2018 IS-300 AWD having 1/3 tank of fuel, I doubt mine will come back full!
Being the FSK vs FSE with the same A760 trans, its nice to know the paddles actually shift the trans on command so they fixed that in the 3IS... Not sure I care for all the extra nannies and wobble yoke for menu selection.
Back to the FSK, I'd guess most would be happy with it's performance. It pulls ok from a dig and is more than happy to drop multiple gears at once when pinned. Our 2IS FSE fits my needs better.
Hopefully whomever is working on the car does a good job. I'm told the same guy is doing both recall procedures.
Per the fuel rail recall thread there was talk of car washing, vacuuming and topping off the tank. I declined the wash, car is clean inside, and with the 2018 IS-300 AWD having 1/3 tank of fuel, I doubt mine will come back full!
Being the FSK vs FSE with the same A760 trans, its nice to know the paddles actually shift the trans on command so they fixed that in the 3IS... Not sure I care for all the extra nannies and wobble yoke for menu selection.
Back to the FSK, I'd guess most would be happy with it's performance. It pulls ok from a dig and is more than happy to drop multiple gears at once when pinned. Our 2IS FSE fits my needs better.
Hopefully whomever is working on the car does a good job. I'm told the same guy is doing both recall procedures.
#39
I used Bushes off an G series (I think) harder but still rubber which I like..
Recommended in another thread.
#40
Installed new brake pads and hardware on 03 Nov 2018, @72,745 mi.
I'm writing to say do not use the Russel speed bleeder on the rear of our cars as they do not seat properly. I didn't have a means to measure the angle of the seat but once tight it leaks. Gently bedding it by tightening it repeatedly crushed the tip as it collapsed around the bleeders side port. I've never seen a bleeder crush itself ever.
The only obvious change is there bleeder is pointed while oem is blunt but the pointed tip was not making contact.
Calipers were cleaned, slide pin greased, pistons easily pushed in by hand with the bleeder open and dumping into that same syringe (think mess free).
Fluid was new DOT3 synthetic made by Prestone. To speed the bleeding process I used a large syringe and sucked the MC dry, filled w new fluid and manually bled with the aid of a warm body in the front seat.
Note when manually bleeding and just before done, have the helper hold pressure and tap the caliper from the bottom using a block of hardwood to knock any trapped bubbles free, then open bleeder so they escape, seal bleeder. Repeat a few times and you get a very firm brake.
Don't buy these; Russell #639570
OEM brake parts used....
Rear brake pads: 04466-22190
Shim kit: 04946-22090
Spring kit: 04948-30210
I'm writing to say do not use the Russel speed bleeder on the rear of our cars as they do not seat properly. I didn't have a means to measure the angle of the seat but once tight it leaks. Gently bedding it by tightening it repeatedly crushed the tip as it collapsed around the bleeders side port. I've never seen a bleeder crush itself ever.
The only obvious change is there bleeder is pointed while oem is blunt but the pointed tip was not making contact.
Calipers were cleaned, slide pin greased, pistons easily pushed in by hand with the bleeder open and dumping into that same syringe (think mess free).
Fluid was new DOT3 synthetic made by Prestone. To speed the bleeding process I used a large syringe and sucked the MC dry, filled w new fluid and manually bled with the aid of a warm body in the front seat.
Note when manually bleeding and just before done, have the helper hold pressure and tap the caliper from the bottom using a block of hardwood to knock any trapped bubbles free, then open bleeder so they escape, seal bleeder. Repeat a few times and you get a very firm brake.
Don't buy these; Russell #639570
OEM brake parts used....
Rear brake pads: 04466-22190
Shim kit: 04946-22090
Spring kit: 04948-30210
#44
A review of the 2012 2IS 350 F-Sport by a RH drive team in AU....
https://performancedrive.com.au/2012...t-review-1201/ It states it was the quickest of all available at that time. Lots of reference to the IS-F but no clue what the production release dates were in Australia.
https://performancedrive.com.au/2012...t-review-1201/ It states it was the quickest of all available at that time. Lots of reference to the IS-F but no clue what the production release dates were in Australia.
#45
Took the 350 on a 1,400 mi road trip. The 350 made this very fun. A bit of the trip the cruise control was set around 90 mph which didn't yield the best economy but neither did my right foot! That said with 4 fuel ups we averaged 24.9mpg with a high of 25.8mpg... Not bad for the rate of travel.