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GS400 Phase Two: Forced Induction Procharger

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Old 05-17-17, 07:00 PM   #1
GS400V8
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Default GS400 Phase Two: Forced Induction Procharger

I got a great deal on this ATI Procharger.
With the stock 2.8" pulley:
At 550 rpm engine idle, the procharger will spin at 3,474 rpm.
When cruising the engine is usually around 2,000 to 2,500 rpm, so the procharger will spin at 12,635 to 15,794 rpm.
At 6,200 rpm redline, it will spin at 39,170 rpm which is still 20K less than it's max spin rate.
I have a list of everything I need to buy and build, it will be pretty straight forward. I really like one-off projects.
Because of my transmission cooler, I will not be doing a front mount intercooler.
I'll be using a factory OEM side mount intercooler for the 1998-2005 JDM Aristos which is a direct bolt on.
The multiple brackets pictured are thin aluminum, but purely for prototyping and measurement reasons. Don't laugh!
The final bracket will be steel, one piece, with nicer curves. Maybe CNC cut/powder coated black at some point.
A metal ribbed pulley welded onto the tensioner pulley will drive the belt to the procharger pulley
This will allow the ~35" belt to be placed on it with the tensioner pulley loosened, and it will tension up with the rest of the belt when released.
I think it will end up being around 340 to 360 wheel horse power, so 430 to 450 HP crank at 20% drive train loss.
Because of the car's weight which is around 3800lbs, and all my mods, it will probably behave more like a 4,300lb car with 470+ horsepower.
All that aside, I know the 0-60 and 1/4 mile times will go down so in that I'll be happy.
Here is a diagram below of how it will be on the car (the charge pipe will be routed different, was drawn for illustrative purposes)
I have another thread that was an NA build, with all possible bolt-ons and transmission mods.


Last edited by GS400V8; 05-26-17 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 05-18-17, 11:01 PM   #2
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I have an official parts list and while there are a few things I'm not sure about, I have verified the rest of them.
I have fit them on my car, measured, and looked at OEM parts and custom parts at my work and confirmed they will work.

Hardware:
Procharger Headunit Housing Mounting Bolts for Bracket: 5/16” x 18 (coarse thread) x 3/4” length (x4)
Extended Cam Cover Bolt for Bracket: M6 x 1.0 thread 2” length (x1 or x2)
OEM bolt from stock air box resonator mounting spot on valve cover closest to the front of the car M6 x 1.0 thread 1" length? (x1)
Extended Belt Tensioner Bolt: M10 x 1.5 LEFT HAND thread - 3” length to 3.5" inch length (longest found was 100mm, ordered from china)
Extended Water Inlet Studs: M8 x 1.25 thread - 3.25" length (actually 90mm bolts with heads cut off)
OEM Intercooler to Frame Mounting Bolts: M8 or M10? x 1.0 thread? (x2)
-4AN female fitting for oil send on headunit
-8AN female fitting for oil drain on headunit
T fitting with 1/8" (x28 thread) BSPT female, 1/8" (x28 thread) BSPT male, with 1/8" (x27 thread) NPT female for intercepting oil at pressure switch to send to headunit (eBay seller p2p0)
-4AN to 1/8" NPT fitting (driftmotion part DM3040)
-8AN or -10AN fitting in oil level switch block off plate for oil return (driftmotion part DM3409)

Main Items:
P600B Headunit
Aluminum or Steel Piping and Silicone Couplers/Clamps (Cut/Welded)
-MAF Sensor Flange on Cold side of Pipe
Aristo JZ161 OEM Side Mount Intercooler
Steel Bracket for Procharger
8 Rib Tensioner Pulley from a 2002 Ford F250 Diesel (Welded on the GS smooth idler pulley. This matches the 8 rib pulley on the Procharger)
2.5" OD stainless steel pipe cut ~1.5" long. (Fits in the back valley of the Ford pulley with good welding spots)
3x Thermostat Housing/Outlets (cut for just the flanges, to space out lower radiator hose to clear supercharger belt)
360K8 Sized Belt (36” belt length x 8 ribs)
Pod Air Filter/Pipe with 3 OEM breather/vacuum fittings attached
Blow-off-valve
Braided Lines/Fittings for Oil Send/Return 4-5ft length (x2)
Power Steering Bracket/Different size Hoses (x2) (3/8"?)

Updated 5/25/17

Last edited by GS400V8; 05-25-17 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 05-19-17, 07:27 AM   #3
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In the lower picture, you have (only) 2 brackets on the head unit, I would certainly try to use more bolts.
One has a "Z" bend in it - this should be nearly a chunk of solid metal as thick as the offset.
The left one appears to rest on the inner fender panel; where is it actually going to go?
You may have to build a 3-dimensional truss attaching to any engine bolts you can find, and bracketing to it. You'd be amazed at how easily belt tension bends a bracket.
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Old 05-19-17, 10:47 AM   #4
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I definitely don't underestimate the belt tension and engine torque.
Those brackets were really just for fitting the thing as I couldn't hold it, check alignment, etc.
Aluminum is also easy to drill, cut, and bend.
The hood closes fine, and where it is pictured is the final actual location it will spin at.
The headunit-to-fender panel bracket will be drilled into the fender. Discarded idea.
I've included a picture that will show how the CNC/powdercoated bracket will look.
The steel one I'm building now and seen on the car next wont be as curvy, but the same basic shape and just as strong.
It will also have less of a Z shape, and more right angular. That was a part of the fitting process.
It utilizes x7 bolts holding it in as included in the hardware list. x4 head unit bolts, x2 cam cover bolts, and x1 cam housing bolt.

Last edited by GS400V8; 05-19-17 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 05-19-17, 11:20 AM   #5
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Nice setup I wouldn't mind doing something similar to my 400.
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Old 05-19-17, 12:11 PM   #6
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The heavier bracket to the engine sounds good.
The bracket to the fender... what happens when the engine rotates? Even if it can completely stop engine torque rotation (and I know nothing about Lexus rubber bushing compliance) it will need more beam section against compression. I've never seen an accessory mount rigid between the engine and the sheet metal, even on a race car.
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Old 05-19-17, 12:50 PM   #7
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Thanks Plex! I have to say your Supra looks amazing. The TT is my favorite Japanese car of all time, in which is probably in my top 3 cars. Having a FI 2JZ and 1UZ would be really cool.

Kitabel, you are completely right. The bracket did help me hold it up for fitment, but there will be too much pressure on it when the engine rotates so that will have to be discarded.
Actually, there is a cam housing bolt that is hard to capture in a photo, but it aligns perfectly with the lower headunit bolt hole. It's bracket will go from there towards the back of the car, behind the headunit, and mount on this cam housing bolt providing torsional rigidity.
This combined with the rigidity of the bracket legs going in front of the headunit, will be very strong.
I now have a new picture of how it will go, as well as a mock-up of where I will move the powersteering reservoir.





Last edited by GS400V8; 05-19-17 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 05-19-17, 02:12 PM   #8
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From what I've read, the brackets only bend when high belt tension is needed to keep pulley engagement for high boost - you may never have a problem. A very short bracket (as your right side) is inherently MUCH stiffer (resistance to bending) than one even a few inches longer such as the "fish" left-side bracket, the proportion is not simply length, but varies inverse to the cube of the unsupported span length. Example: two brackets using the same bolt pattern, one 6" long, one 9" long. Deduct 1/2" from each for the area next to the bolts = 5-1/2" and 8-1/2". 8.5^3 / 5.5^3 = 3.69. The shorter bracket is over 3 times as stiff as the longer.
This rule is true for many simple spans evaluated for stiffness (not resistance to breakage).

The left bracket away from the head unit will be stressed in tension (trying to pull forward), and easier to restrain.If you have a line of sight from a bracket on the left side of the head unit to something behind it on the engine, it may be useful, and be a simple tube with a clevis (heim joint not useful here) at both ends.

Last edited by kitabel; 05-19-17 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 05-19-17, 02:46 PM   #9
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Yeah I don't really plan to go past 8psi, and the longer brackets will have a lot of thick reinforcement steel.
I updated the last picture with this as I forgot it before.
Thanks alot for your input on this, it really did help with discarding the fender bracket.
When you say "If you have a line of sight from a bracket on the left side of the head unit to something behind it on the engine, it may be useful, and be a simple tube with a clevis (heim joint not useful here) at both ends." do you mean the side towards the fender wall (right side/passenger side?)
Once the steel bracket is done along with the lower rad hose move and addition pulley on the tensioner, I will put the belt on it, and run it for a while but with the stock air hose/maf sens hooked up off to the side.
I'll rev it up, and watch that it doesn't twist, or move. Then I'll go on to intercooler piping, other misc things and be done.
Here is another picture showing the rearward bracket fab'd up.



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Old 05-19-17, 05:46 PM   #10
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If you can run a bracket to something like the bolt holes for the intake resonator that I know you no longer have, that'll be ideal. The more 3D you can make that bracket, the stronger it'll be.
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Old 05-19-17, 06:16 PM   #11
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Thanks for the idea, I almost forgot about those bolt holes because I cut those stock bolts in half and put them back in to look OEM.
That might be a good option.
The final version might have something like this pictured below to add a lot of strength. The light red lines go under the unit.
The thickness of steel I'm using will have no flexing, and combined with the multiple mounting points, I know it'll be very rigid.
Again I will run it off the belt with the stock intake hooked up to the side, just to make sure it doesn't flex.
It will sad yet awesome to hear the whine/turbine type sound without it being plumbed to the intake but from there it will be close to finishing.
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Old 05-19-17, 08:55 PM   #12
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in for info. I too am a fabricator so it would be interesting to see how yours turn out.
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Old 05-20-17, 10:07 PM   #13
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Thanks, I'm trying to share as much info as I can.
I think for any one attempting to do this, most of it is research, trial & error, fitment, etc. but really rewarding once done right.
I've tackled how I will move the lower radiator hose to clear the ~35" 8 rib supercharger pulley belt.
I am buying 3 water outlets (although they are technically inlets) and sawing the tube/round part off, with just the flange section remaining.
They will be stacked, hence moving the hose out towards the front of the car.
Alot of supercharger kits included a single spacer, but this will work the same, with RTV in between each once. They will have to be cut really flat.
I will have to remove the x3 stock studs that hold the current inlet on, and buy x3 longer studs to replace them. (Added to hardware list above in post #2)
Because the 2002 Ford Diesel truck 8 rib metal pulley will be stacked on the tension pulley, it might need a 1/2" spacer between to line up still.
A 2" diameter exhaust pipe cut to 1/2" length fits perfectly between the idler and ribbed pulleys, with great spots to weld to without getting weld spots on any parts that contact the belt.
Even the stock tensioner pulley washer fits perfectly inside the Ford pulley! This is too perfect.
I have a pic showing both how the water inlet looks as well as the pulley.


Last edited by GS400V8; 05-22-17 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 05-22-17, 04:13 PM   #14
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Glad to stumble onto this, I have been toying with an idea very similar to yours. Best of luck on the build.
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Old 05-22-17, 07:40 PM   #15
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Thanks zander!
Basically, if someone wants to do this here are the main things:

1) Making that spacer for the water outlet to clear the belt
2) SAFC II or Apexi Neo will help immensely
3) Preferably start with no check engine lights, this will complicate things
4) Making a strong procharger bracket
5) Bolt on sandwhich filter adapter to the oil filter, for an oil send to procharger. Have to find correct AN threads, I think mine is -8 (will update)
6) Tap into oil pan for return line, I will weld a bung here. AN thread here I think is -18 (will update)
7) Welding the 8 rib pulley I have sourced to the tensioner with possible spacer
8) Finding a 2.75" to 3.5" LEFT hand threaded bolt for tensioner. I will have to have one machined or ordered from china
9) Getting right belt size - I have measured roughly 35" to 38" inches for my particular setup
10) Measuring all the extended bolt thread sizes and lengths
11) Fabricating all the intercooler piping, supply intercooler
12) Make sure the pipe to the throttle body has a width of 3", same as OEM, where the MAF is attached
13) Relocate power steering reservoir backwards towards firewall
14) Dyno tune

Here is another picture of the 8-rib 2002 Ford Diesel tensioner pulley. (Will add more pics tomorrow of this held up to the car)

Last edited by GS400V8; 05-22-17 at 07:47 PM.
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