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GS400 Phase Two: Forced Induction Procharger

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Old 05-17-17, 07:00 PM   #1
GS400V8
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Default GS400 Phase Two: Forced Induction Procharger

I got a great deal on this ATI Procharger.
With the 2.8" pulley and 3.05 step up ratio it came with:
At 550 rpm engine idle, the procharger will spin at 3,470 rpm.
When cruising the engine is usually around 2,000 to 2,500 rpm, so the procharger will spin at 12,620 to 15,775 rpm.
At 6,200 rpm redline, it will spin at 39,122 rpm which is still 20,878 less than it's max spin rate (60K) which seems like a good margin. These numbers are about what the RMM kits spun at, at a solid 6-7 PSI
I have a list of everything I need to buy and build, it will be pretty straight forward. I really like one-off projects.
Because of my transmission cooler, I will not be doing a front mount intercooler.
I'll be using a factory OEM side mount intercooler for the 1998-2005 (JZ161 body not earlier JZ147) JDM Aristos which is a direct bolt on.
The multiple brackets pictured are thin aluminum, but purely for prototyping and measurement reasons. Don't laugh!
The final bracket will be steel, one piece, with nicer curves. Maybe CNC cut/powder coated black at some point.
A metal ribbed pulley welded onto the power steering pulley will drive the ~28" belt to the procharger pulley
A small tensioner pulley will be mounted to the bracket to provide tension to the belt
I think it will end up being around 340 to 370 wheel horse power, so 430 to 460 HP crank at 20% drive train loss.
Because of the car's weight which is around 3800lbs, and all my mods, it will probably behave more like a 4,300lb car with 490+ horsepower.
All that and numbers aside, I know the 0-60 and 1/4 mile times will go down and acceleration will be even better, so in that I'll be happy.
Here is a diagram below of how it will be on the car (the charge pipe will be routed different, was drawn for illustrative purposes)
I have another thread that was an NA build, with all possible bolt-ons and transmission mods.

The cold pipe with the MAF flange to the throttle body is actually routed underneath and runs up between the fan shroud and engine.



Last edited by GS400V8; 09-05-17 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 05-18-17, 11:01 PM   #2
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I have an official parts list and will constantly update this with a date at the bottom.
I have fit them on my car, measured, and looked at OEM parts and custom parts at my work and confirmed they will work.

Hardware:
Procharger Headunit Housing Mounting Bolts for Bracket: 5/16 x 18 (coarse thread) x 3/4” length (x4)
Extended Cam Cover Bolt (Upper) for Bracket: M6 x 1.0 thread 2” length (x1 or x2)
Extended Cam Cover Bolt (Lower Right) for Bracket: M6 x 1.0 thread 4" length
Spacer for Lower Cam Cover Bolt to Bracket 3" length
Long 5/16 x 18 (coarse thread) 4" length (x1) and 3" length (x1) (bolts for the procharger belt tensioner assembly fitted to the custom bracket)
5/16 x 18 nut/coupler nut (x2) (welded to the supercharger bracket to thread the other tensioner assembly bolt)
OEM bolt from stock air box resonator mounting spot on valve cover closest to the front of the car M6 x 1.0 thread 1" length? (x1)
Extended Water Inlet Studs: M8 x 1.25 thread - 3.25" length (actually 90mm bolts with heads cut off)
OEM Intercooler to Frame Mounting Bolts: M6 x 1.0 thread 2" length (x3)
-4AN female fitting for oil send on headunit (straight) (x2)
-8AN female fitting for oil drain on headunit (right angle) (x2)
3 feet of -8AN hose size
5 feet of -4AN hose size
T fitting with 1/8" (x28 thread) BSPT female, 1/8" (x28 thread) BSPT male, with 1/8" (x27 thread) NPT female for intercepting oil at pressure switch to send to headunit (eBay seller p2p0 item number 132046408027)
-4AN to 1/8" NPT fitting for T fitting to oil send hose (driftmotion part DM3040)
-8AN aluminum weld bung for oil level switch block off plate for oil return (driftmotion part DM3409)


Main Items:
P600B ATI Procharger Headunit
Cheap Wideband Gauge Kit with O2 sensor (not permanent install, just for tuning)
Cheap boost gauge (not permanent install, just for tuning)
2001 Hyundai Sonata/Santa Fe 2.7L V6 Belt Tensioner Assembly
2001 Ford Lightning Smooth Idler Pulley (mounted in place of stock 6 rib sized Hyundai pulley on the hyundai tensioner assembly)
2001 Ford Lightning 8-rib Power Steering Pulley (center drilled out to 1" and welded to p/s pump pulley with pipe spacer)
2004-2009 Mazda RX8 (Manual) Denso 430cc Yellow Injectors.
-MAF Sensor Flange on Cold side of Pipe (aluminum flange section from cheap eba 1998-2000 GS300 CAI kits)
Aristo JZ161 (2nd Gen) OEM Side Mount Intercooler
3" ebay Aluminum Inter cooler Piping kit
Silcone couplers:
3" to 3.75" for air filter to procharger intake.
3" to 3" (included in kit) from procharger outlet to 3" hot pipe start (s-shaped)
3" to 2.5" for hot pipe end to enter SMIC intake
2.5" to 3" for the SMIC outlet to 3" cold pipe start
3.25" to 3" for cold pipe end into throttle body
Steel Bracket for Procharger
2.5" OD stainless steel pipe cut 1.75" long. (Fits in the back valley of the Ford pulley with good welding spots)
3x Thermostat Housing/Outlets (cut for just the flanges, to space out lower radiator hose to clear supercharger belt)
300K8 Sized Belt (30” belt length x 8 ribs)
Pod Air Filter/Pipe with 3 OEM breather/vacuum fittings attached
RKS Supercharger Bypass Valve (also need ~1.5 aluminum pipe 2x quantity about 2" each)
Braided Lines/Fittings for Oil Send/Return 4-5ft length (x2)
Power Steering Bracket/Different size Hoses (x2) (3/8"?)
1" diameter aluminum pipe cut to about 2.5" long (2x quantity) (one pipe welded to intake air filter pipe, and other welded to cold charge pipe for diverter/bypass valve hose attachments)
1/4" inner diameter aluminum pipe about 1" long (2x quantity) (for OEM vacuum fittings/PVC valve on the air intake pipe)


Updated 8/31/17

Last edited by GS400V8; 08-31-17 at 08:05 PM.
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Old 05-19-17, 07:27 AM   #3
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In the lower picture, you have (only) 2 brackets on the head unit, I would certainly try to use more bolts.
One has a "Z" bend in it - this should be nearly a chunk of solid metal as thick as the offset.
The left one appears to rest on the inner fender panel; where is it actually going to go?
You may have to build a 3-dimensional truss attaching to any engine bolts you can find, and bracketing to it. You'd be amazed at how easily belt tension bends a bracket.
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Old 05-19-17, 10:47 AM   #4
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I definitely don't underestimate the belt tension and engine torque.
Those brackets were really just for fitting the thing as I couldn't hold it, check alignment, etc.
Aluminum is also easy to drill, cut, and bend.
The hood closes fine, and where it is pictured is the final actual location it will spin at.
The headunit-to-fender panel bracket will be drilled into the fender. Discarded idea.
I've included a picture that will show how the CNC/powdercoated bracket will look.
The steel one I'm building now and seen on the car next wont be as curvy, but the same basic shape and just as strong.
It will also have less of a Z shape, and more right angular. That was a part of the fitting process.
It utilizes x7 bolts holding it in as included in the hardware list. x4 head unit bolts, x2 cam cover bolts, and x1 cam housing bolt.

Last edited by GS400V8; 05-19-17 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 05-19-17, 11:20 AM   #5
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Nice setup I wouldn't mind doing something similar to my 400.
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Old 05-19-17, 12:11 PM   #6
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The heavier bracket to the engine sounds good.
The bracket to the fender... what happens when the engine rotates? Even if it can completely stop engine torque rotation (and I know nothing about Lexus rubber bushing compliance) it will need more beam section against compression. I've never seen an accessory mount rigid between the engine and the sheet metal, even on a race car.
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Old 05-19-17, 12:50 PM   #7
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Thanks Plex! I have to say your Supra looks amazing. The TT is my favorite Japanese car of all time, in which is probably in my top 3 cars. Having a FI 2JZ and 1UZ would be really cool.

Kitabel, you are completely right. The bracket did help me hold it up for fitment, but there will be too much pressure on it when the engine rotates so that will have to be discarded.
Actually, there is a bolt on the valve cover that was used to mount the stock ait intake resonator.
It is hard to capture in a photo, but it aligns pretty well horizontally with the lower headunit bolt hole.
It's bracket will go from there towards the back of the car, behind the headunit, and mount on this valve cover bolt providing torsional rigidity.
This combined with the rigidity of the bracket legs going in front of the headunit, will be very strong.
Here is a mock-up of where I will move the power steering reservoir as well.


Last edited by GS400V8; 06-13-17 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 05-19-17, 02:12 PM   #8
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From what I've read, the brackets only bend when high belt tension is needed to keep pulley engagement for high boost - you may never have a problem. A very short bracket (as your right side) is inherently MUCH stiffer (resistance to bending) than one even a few inches longer such as the "fish" left-side bracket, the proportion is not simply length, but varies inverse to the cube of the unsupported span length. Example: two brackets using the same bolt pattern, one 6" long, one 9" long. Deduct 1/2" from each for the area next to the bolts = 5-1/2" and 8-1/2". 8.5^3 / 5.5^3 = 3.69. The shorter bracket is over 3 times as stiff as the longer.
This rule is true for many simple spans evaluated for stiffness (not resistance to breakage).

The left bracket away from the head unit will be stressed in tension (trying to pull forward), and easier to restrain.If you have a line of sight from a bracket on the left side of the head unit to something behind it on the engine, it may be useful, and be a simple tube with a clevis (heim joint not useful here) at both ends.

Last edited by kitabel; 05-19-17 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 05-19-17, 05:46 PM   #9
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If you can run a bracket to something like the bolt holes for the intake resonator that I know you no longer have, that'll be ideal. The more 3D you can make that bracket, the stronger it'll be.
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Old 05-19-17, 06:16 PM   #10
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Thanks for the idea!! I almost forgot about those bolt holes because I cut those stock bolts in half and put them back in to look OEM.
That might be a good option.
The final version might have something like this pictured below to add a lot of strength. The light red lines go under the unit.
The thickness of steel I'm using will have no flexing, and combined with the multiple mounting points, I know it'll be very rigid.
Again I will run it off the belt with the stock intake hooked up to the side, just to make sure it doesn't flex.
It will sad yet awesome to hear the whine/turbine type sound without it being plumbed to the intake but from there it will be close to finishing.

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Old 05-19-17, 08:55 PM   #11
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in for info. I too am a fabricator so it would be interesting to see how yours turn out.
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Old 05-20-17, 10:07 PM   #12
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Thanks, I'm trying to share as much info as I can.
I think for any one attempting to do this, most of it is research, trial & error, fitment, etc. but really rewarding once done right.
I've tackled how I will move the lower radiator hose to clear the ~35" 8 rib supercharger pulley belt.
I am buying 3 water outlets (although they are technically inlets) and sawing the tube/round part off, with just the flange section remaining.
They will be stacked, hence moving the hose out towards the front of the car.
Alot of supercharger kits included a single spacer, but this will work the same, with RTV in between each once. They will have to be cut really flat.
I will have to remove the x3 stock studs that hold the current inlet on, and buy x3 longer bolts, cut the heads off to make studs to replace them. (Added to hardware list above in post #2)
Because the 2002 Ford Diesel truck 8 rib metal pulley will be stacked on the power steering pulley, it might need a ~1/2" spacer between to line up still with the procharger pulley.
A 2.5" outer diameter exhaust pipe cut to 1/2" length fits perfectly in the back of the 8 ribbed pulley that will be welded to the power steering pulley. There are great spots to weld to without getting weld spots on any parts that contact the belt. This is too perfect.
I have a pic showing how the water inlet looks

Last edited by GS400V8; 06-13-17 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 05-22-17, 04:13 PM   #13
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Glad to stumble onto this, I have been toying with an idea very similar to yours. Best of luck on the build.
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Old 05-22-17, 07:40 PM   #14
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Thanks zander!
Basically, if someone wants to do this here are the main things:

1) Making that spacer for the water outlet to clear the belt
2) SAFC II or Apexi Neo will help immensely and fuel injectors.
3) Start with no check engine lights, this will complicate things
4) Making a strong procharger bracket
5 and 6 are if you need oil lines
5) T fitting to intercept the oil pressure switch to send oil to headunit,
6) Oil return to the disconnected oil level sensor, driftmotion makes a bolt-on plate where you can weld in an AN fitting

7) Welding the 8 rib power steering pulley to the oem power steering pulley with the 2.5" diameter pipe spacer
8) Adding the tensioner assembly to the bracket
9) Getting right belt size - I have measured roughly 30" inches for my particular setup
10) Measuring all the extended bolt thread sizes and lengths
11) Fabricating all the intercooler piping, supply intercooler
12) Make sure the pipe to the throttle body has an OEM width of 3" where the MAF is attached
13) Relocate power steering reservoir backwards towards firewall
14) tune it with AFRs

Last edited by GS400V8; 08-31-17 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 05-23-17, 07:59 AM   #15
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Excellent, keep it up!

Just as an aside: many of the alignment, position, etc. problems here are caused by the extremely tight confines of the engine compartment, and the fact that the engine is a "V" (which limits compressor discharge to the original TB or close, making a new manifold isn't an option).
Any L4 or L6 will be much easier (far more practical to modify the manifold, or even make one), and a V6 in a car which came with a V8 will have more room ahead of the engine (and sometimes along side if it's a narrower 60 degree bank angle).
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