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GS400 Phase Two: Forced Induction Procharger

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Old 08-09-17, 04:38 PM   #76
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I'm rocking coppers in mine too. The idea is that copper dissipates heat better than any other metal, so that means that they will not stay as red hot during high cylinder pressures causing pre ignition. so far so good. problem is, they should be replaced around 30k miles. no problem though.
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Old 08-14-17, 07:16 PM   #77
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Yes copper absorbs heat better and dissipates better than the other metals used in spark plugs such as platinum and iridium. Copper absorbs heat better than aluminum but aluminum dissipates heat better but alum is not used in spark plugs. It is a physics property I cannot full understand but this is why copper is used primarily in water/heater pipes and aluminum is used in heat sinks for electronics/computers. Very high end heat sinks use a mixture of copper/aluminum.

More news! Here's some pics of my intercooler piping (a few pieces not shown for pic size, diagram also shown) and extended MAF harness. I had to extend it about 1.5 feet because it has to reach the cold side of the pipe near the throttle body. I used double shrink tubing on each solder joint on each wire which there were 5. So that was 20 pieces of heat shrink. Then I twisted the whole harness and taped it in 3 spots to hold the twist. Then used 3/8" conduit and taped it all the way down and then back up for a total layer of 2x layers. This is how the OEM harnesses are done. I use 3M Super 33 electrical tape which is the best I've used. It is super thin, sticky, and very stretchy/flexible. I haven't tried the Super 88 yet. More pics of some things I've described below.

I have almost all the parts here. I'm just waiting for a few more. Mainly one fitting, a 4" hose clamp, and oil return plate/-8an weld bung. I also ordered some plastic fuel rail spacers I hope will work. The mazda rx8 injectors are shorter, and the 1UZ/3UZ fuel rail spacers are very specific with these special lips. I can cut them in half, take a 3/8" chunk out the middle and glue them back together but I'm hoping the ones I ordered will work so I can use one piece. I ordered 4x from an RX300 (or Toyota 4Runner V6) and 4x from a 2nd Gen GS300. Total shot in the dark on these. The crazy thing is, the first gen 1UZ (non-vvti) injectors are the SAME size as the RX8. Identical. But even though the injectors for the VVTi are longer, the fuel rail spacers for the 1st gen 1UZ motor and the 2nd Gen 1UZ (vvti) are the same, hence me ordering different ones.

The diverter valve from RKS is very high quality for $45 shipped on eBay. There was a video on youtube showing the quality differences between it and standard aluminum valves and this one was much better. Also much better than the standard OEM plastic ones which are about $20. The plastic and standard aluminum no brand valves both would leak and stop releasing the valve and used weird o-rings to seal the piston to the bottom. The RKS uses a precision machined lip that seals metal to metal and works perfectly. It came with 3 different spring ratings, 8-22psi red spring, 22-30psi blue spring, and 30psi and up yellow spring. It had the blue in so I had to put the red in. It also included hose clamps, instructions, and 3 o-rings for a future rebuild.

I hooked it up to the fitting pictured below and it works great. I used the throttle cable on the throttle body to test it. For those who don't know, a bypass/diverter valve bypasses boost during idle (high vacuum holds up/open valve.) It shuts the valve for full PSI boost the second the vacuum is dropped in the manifold at wide open throttle. You can re-route it to the air intake before the blower for low noise or just vent it to the air. These are used on all roots style superchargers, some turbos (the one I bought is a direct replacement for some turbo cars) and should be used on centrifugals. You can use a blow off valve but they are trickier to set it. If not done right, they can cause excess heat, and hard on the compressor. Mine will be right before the MAF and divert back to the intake but I'll try to the atmosphere too for fun. I think that way it will just sound like a vacuum cleaner (was told this from an experienced guy too) because boost is rushing out the pipe into the atmosphere at idle/cruise. I bought a 1" hole saw from ACE Hardware and it created a perfect hole for the 1" aluminum pipe that will be TIG welded. This is so I can attach hoses to the valve if I ever need to take it off.

This fitting on the manifold is perfect! It was not used and I think it looks alot better with a hose and clamp on it rather than a cap. The line I'm using is washer fluid/vacuum line 5/16" and using 3/8" (the smallest I could find) spring hose clamps












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Old 08-14-17, 07:59 PM   #78
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looking forward to some videos...
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Old 08-15-17, 05:27 PM   #79
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I'll definitely do some videos man. I wont be that guy to disappear once everything is running.
I borrowed my neighbor's chop saw today to cut the intercooler piping and make a $20 bead rolling tool. The piping is almost done, and I have a picture of pretty much how the final product will look as well as the tool. Only thing not pictured is the bypass valve, I'll need to get a few things TIG welded for that. Very easy though, super easy. It was fairly straight forward cutting the pipe except the bottom. I had to use a 45 degree coupler, ~30 degree pipe (had to cut from a 180 degree pipe) and use two right angles to go up to the throttle body. It sits lower than I'd like in the bottom, but it had to clear the lower radiator hose and other things because of the exit angle from the intercooler.

I'm still surprised the hood closes with the air filter like that.

The tool is basically a special pair of wire cutters/crimpers, with the tip cut off, and parts grinded to create more space for the "bead" shape and not being bitten by any sharp spots made for thin wire. I saw this from a video on youtube, and looks very professional. I like to torch the pipe before hand just to soften the pipe a bit so it is not as brittle when crimping/stamping the bead into the aluminum. The picture below is shown on a test piece. The tool was not 100% finished and I did not torch that piece.

Here is something badblackgs taught me as well, a big thanks to him. Because I'm using the oil level switch plate for the oil return per his suggestion, I bought an oil block off plate for this, that will drill a hole through and TIG weld a -8AN bung in there. The switch has two wires that short together in the oil to keep the oil light from coming on. When you take the plug out, you have to short them together since you're removing the switch. So I took a piece of solid core wire (stranded would be a mess) and put it in the plug making sure the pins bit the wire tight. The middle of the wire was still insulated, and tucked flush inside negative space of the plug. Then it was wrapped in Super 33 electrical tape 3 different directions, and then zip tied to another wire harness conduit.

I'll also need to go to ace hardware store tomorrow and get 2x flanged head M6 x 1.0 bolts about 1" long because the stock MAF bolts aren't threaded all the way but will need to be for this new aluminum flange. No biggy










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Old 08-15-17, 07:14 PM   #80
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rock on. looking forward to some good videos. and great sound clips.
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Old 08-17-17, 08:53 PM   #81
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I definitely look forward to making some. Now sound, it is a more quiet setup right now, but the guy at the exhaust shop said it is the best GS he has ever heard. He told me on two different occasions, once a month ago, and then today when I had to stop by there for something.

I don't know, it's not that loud at WOT, I wish it had a tad more rasp I told him. He said that when the procharger goes on and I make more power, it will sound even better and more powerful/louder and I might like that better. So I am anxious. If anything the quieter exhaust will let me hear that procharger more and I do like the minimal drone. I haven't posted any clips of this new exhaust since I got it like 6 months ago so I'll definitely get some exhaust-focused videos.

More news again, it's getting so so close. One of the next posts it will probably be running.
I'm currently going to get some stuff TIG welded in the next few days. I already started on the fuel injectors.

It turns out that! - Ive confirmed that RX8 fuel injectors are a 100% drop in. Same plug connector, not even the fuel rail spacers need to be changed. HOWEVER you MUST use the red injector (primary) grommets for the injector tips. Or just use the red injectors but Are only 350cc and I wanted the 420cc yellows so I put the red grommets on those. The red grommets are larger and fit perfect unlike the 1UZ non vvti or yellow (from manual cars 420cc or blue injectors from autos 520cc) RX8 grommets. (I didn't have enough of those red grommets so I ordered some and will let the car sit till Saturday morning till I get them bolted back in)

You don't even have to block off the air injection because the grommets do that as pictured below. Also, you can use the noise/heat insulators on them as well from the most rearward 4x fuel injectors on the engine if you want.

Confusing info warning: The RX8 and 1UZ NON vvti injector are same height and interchangable. The VVTi are taller but have the same fuel rail spacer heights as the RX8/NON vvti because of manifold design. Although, with the red primary grommets, the RX8 injectors do not need shorter spacers inside the VVTi motor because of the way they sit in there. Perfect! Basically, the stock fuel rail spacers fit will 100% accuracy and precision and hold the rail/injectors in perfectly.

I'm guessing Toyota/Mazda really designed their engines around Denso's injectors but is really cool that they swap perfectly, especially the connectors. I'll run the car naturally aspirated with the bigger injectors to make sure they all work.

I also did the oil lines. For the first time I made some AN fitting hoses and it was actually pretty fun. Now tapping the oil pressure switch for the send line to the procharger was not fun. It was near the oil filter housing, and space was so tight. The oil pressure socket (1 and 1/16") was too tall and wouldn't allow any type of 1/2" drive ratchet/breaker bar to fit or it would hit the motor mount/submember/frame. So! I used the chop saw (so glad my neighbor let me use this, I did the inter cooler piping and other stuff like perfectly cutting the AN hose) to cut part of the socket off. Worked perfectly with enough clearance to get a 1/2 breaker bar in there. Was just a pain again cause I couldn't wrench it, I had to do it 1/4 turn at a time till hand loose. Also, there was a 8mm x 1.25 thread hole near the AC compressor on a bracket for some reason, so I used a rubber wire clamp/protector and threaded a bolt in there. I think it looks great and holds the hose away from the hot oil pan, and spinning crank pulley.












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Old 08-17-17, 09:05 PM   #82
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These are 5 or so TIG welds I need done for the intercooler piping and oil return plate, and that's literally it for the build.
(Besides those 8x grommets and 3.25" coupler I'm waiting for, should both be here Saturday the 19th, today is the 17th.
The local performance shop said they can do the welds very quick as well)


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Old 08-17-17, 09:15 PM   #83
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such a great build..
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Old 08-19-17, 09:25 PM   #84
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Thanks man, but not perfect. Here are the troubles I'm facing:

Injectors are way too big for the ECU to control at idle. Anything under 1500 RPM and the car dies. It idled great for the first start up, ran like stock for about 2 minutes. After that, every time I would rev it up, it would fall back down, flood, and die.

The Apexi adds/subtracts fuel by skewing the MAF signal. Even though I was pulling fuel according to the Apexi Neo piggyback for low throttle, closed loop ECU configuration was not able to accept it because 1) closed loop *somewhat* ignores MAF signal, relies on O2 sensors which Apexi cannot intercept and 2) because these injectors are almost 2x as large, but the ECU can honestly probably only pull 15%-20% max fuel and has to do with pulse width signals to injectors

They worked great at cruising and wide open throttle though. I just pulled fuel at the top end, and it ran like stock.

Also, because I'm using a proper bypass/diverter valve combined with the nature of centrifugal supercharger's low boost at low rpm idle, air flow won't be much different than naturally aspirated so the larger injectors won't help here either at idle even with the procharger on. In other words, the air won't "match" the extra fuel at idle because air flow will be almost the same

I will be taking the original supercharger master builder's advice from badblackgs: Stock injectors, purchase a wideband, a split second aux fuel injector controller for a 9th 1000cc injector in the pipe right before the throttle body.

The large injector will only turn on during boost and he has complete great idling, stock lexus/toyota reliability and driving, with boost when ever he needs it

Quote:
you can do the simplest thing which is us a huge 9th injector welded in the intake manifold like i have and use a split second injector controller to control it which is very simple and ease to use.
So I'l be selling the RX8 injectors, along with the boomslang harness/apexi neo as I have found it useless for my application now



Also, the bead-roller tool I made didn't work on all sections of pipe. It seemed some spots were WAY more dense than others (aluminum quality control?) than softer spots which were easy to crimp. I'm having them rolled at a shop.

Some of my pieces are being TIG welded right now too. Just have to pick them up soon.
I'll need to take them back again though because I need a 9th injector mod.

I'll need an extra bung in my exhaust too for the wideband

Last edited by GS400V8; 08-19-17 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 08-21-17, 11:03 PM   #85
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Huge update. When I put the 420cc injectors in I was in a rush (long story) and forgot to tighten down the two bolts that squeeze the MAF gasket to the housing. It created a huge air leak, no engine codes though, and caused the ECU to freak out. It sensed this extra air, dumped fuel to protect the engine, and kept flooding it at a stop, reverse, or idle. The larger injectors didn't help.

But I have let my car idle for an hour total today (Midday, Night and Late night minutes combined) and also drove the car hard those 3 times too on public roads at WOT and full stops. I can't get it to die at idle anyway after tightening those bolts/gaskets.

Moral: Don't rush and overlook simple things. The Yellow RX8 420cc drop-in injectors work fine now.

I'll be running the procharger hopefully wednesday. If I don't have tuning issues it will ready for driving.
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