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I'll get some acceleration, exhaust, and drive by runs soon. I'm also going to re-visit some exhaust stuff. I said I'd do figs sways and wheels first, but I miss the sounds! I currently have stock resos with a muffler delete and X pipe which is very mild. I've done every exhaust set up out there except this one: Basically I'm going to continue where I left off on modding the mufflers. (If you haven't seen my thread on how to mod them and whats inside check it out here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-mufflers.html
The principle and goal is a loud exhaust with no-drone. With the 10-13lb each mufflers (haven't weighed them, might be more which would be better) they seriously dampen the vibration at the weakest resonant point on the exhaust because they hang from rubber hangers at the end and they are prone to vibrate wildly combined with the bombarding exhaust pulses from no resonators down-stream. So I will essentially make the mufflers straight-through (also adding a couple grams of weight inside them when I weld in block off plates on certain areas and believe it or not if you look at my thread there is a glass pack style tube in the stock muffler which I will retain) and this will have the nice loud sound with minimal drone. Many manufacturers use this principle including aston martin and that was a lot of research believe me.
I very much understand the issue of timing. I'm not that familiar with the 2JZGTE timing and AFR maps. Although, I'm actually pretty familiar with the tuning parameters of the new Z06 corvette and ZL1 camaro. I watch alot of videos of these and kindof found out where they are at. For anyone who doesn't know, the Z06 (ZL1 didn't get engine till '16) share the same direct injection LT4 in-the-block cam derived from the LT1 but this one's internals are much stronger for the 1.7L eaton tvs supercharger. The LT1 was 11.5:1 compression, and the LT4 is 10.0:1 which is fairly high for forced induction but makes a great comparison to our 10.5:1 compression in the 1UZ/3UZ motors. The 2017 LT4 ECU/CANBUS is different but they have cracked that download already as well.
So, with an upgraded exhaust and an intake on a stock Z06/ZL1, the LT4 can be tuned safely with around -10 to -12 retarded timing in the upper RPMS while safely having a 12.5 to 13.0 AFR. Yes this is in forced induction! When timing is taken out, you can go leaner just like you said kitabel. Although, some noteable differences in this motor, AFRs can be much leaner due to the nature of this engine, and the fact that it is direct injection.
On a Z06 making 1000 lb ft of torque to the wheels on a dyno (1000cc injectors, NOS, fuel pump, headers, exhaust, intake, different blower, smaller pulley) they pulled roughly -15 to -17 degrees at the higher RPMS. This is no where near power levels most average 2JZ or 1UZ turbo owners make, but interesting for comparison's sake none the less.
The FIC8 is piggyback that can retard timing by skewing the cam/crank signal. It is known to be a nightmare by a couple of our members, and it sometimes has a mind of it's own. Car not starting every time, and not accurately re-producing the cam signals because it is a universal unit. Some cars have different cam sensor wave outputs than others, and I don't think the unit likes our cars. It also splices into every coil pack/spark plug so it is a lot of wiring to do.
The Haltech interceptor is another piggyback that can retard timing but I'm not sure about it's quality or similar problems to the FIC8.
I also called a tuner in Indiana from Cozzolino motor sports. I saw his video on youtube about how it took him a while to help tune a Blue Oval Chip's customer's GS400 with a procharger. He told me on the phone that he was trying to use an AEM piggy back unit and could not get it to work. He said the cam sensor would never correctly be translated from the unit (sound familiar from the FIC8?) he tried different resistor values (in an effort to smooth out voltage spikes or wave shapes) like badblackgs did, but it just didn't work. He had to wire in relays to switch different things on/off and said it was a pain.
Maybe I got lucky with tuning with my Apexi?
I'll really don't want to go standalone on this car and lose alot of comfort features with the CANBUS system.
If I could R&D and make a small unit that tapped just into the crank sensor and accurately re-produced the cam signal, but delayed it a tad (make the ECU think it's going slower so spark goes slower, hence retard spark) I could make alot of money. It would be wired to a boost switch, that could safely retard timing only at WOT. You'd just have to run it in series with the crank sensor, wire it to the boost switch, and maybe run a positive and negative to power it. Hmmm...
If retarding the timing and going leaner could get me 30-40 extra wheel horsepower it might be worth it. But for now it seems there is no good way to do this except for maybe water/methanol in addition to my intercooler I already have to maybe get a tad bit more power out without knock or pre-det.
"For 6-cylinder Tacoma, 4Runner and many other Toyota applications. It calibrates the 0-5 V MAF sensor signal and intercepts the variable reluctance cam and crank sensor signals. This unit is has an internal enrichment module that works with either narrowband O2 sensor or wideband air/fuel sensors. The module allows a richer fuel mixture in boost at part throttle.
The R4 software is included with this unit."
It said they used the FTC1-017B on the ISF build but I don't see that one on their site. Maybe they meant FTC1-017D like on the website
They delayed the timing by 6 degrees by delaying the crank trigger sent to the ECU.
Also clamped the MAF sensor to 4.6v so it wouldn't cut fuel but I could do that with a 4.6 volt zener diode in series with the output wire for the MAF which would be simple
im so proud of you for reading that. most people wouldn't of even taken the time. than they would have kept asking questions and bothering other people when the actual proof of the products functionality is presented on a working and functioning car. good job!!!!!!!
And on the topic of the 6 cylinder device being on a 8 cylinder is as simple as the guy that runs split second is an engineer and brilliant so he could of easily modified it to work with 8 cylinders but if you think about it, the cam signals dont matter on the number of cylinders. just the rotation speed of the cams vs. rotation speed of crank. its not controlling any injectors. just skewing maf signal, voltage clamping maf, and retarding cam. He now has a device though thats capable of advancing the timing. some would be skeptical but he said he literally captures the cam crank signal and slows it down 720 degrees than can advance it from there. and it works.
one more thing. you dont need to go screwing with the maf clamp until you actually have a problem. the simpler the better. im running 9 psi. with out any voltage clamping at all and i know im over five volts easily. the beauty is, the factory computer is still using voltage over five volts to calculate air flow. at my current flow rate at wide open throttle im at about 5.6 volts and not setting any maf performance codes or fuel cut.
badblackgs, I haven't been following very closely, but are you running FI on a stock ECU?
yes, kind of. if you are interested on reading up on it my post "roots blown gs430" has everything you need to know. just allow some time to get through it.
Thanks bro, I'm so thankful for that info you shared. I read it all. I thought it was cool as hell.
I think a large reason of our success is that we tune around the factory ECU rather than trying to fight it, and that article proved it like you said.
Only us drivers "really" know what fuel/air is going in the engine by safely measuring it outside the ECU with boost and AFR gauges.
We just manipulate some things to prevent the ECU from knowing the difference and freaking out.
If you really want you could rip the ECU out and put in a standalone. But it will take a while, you will lose many features, and possible have driveability issues all the time.
Yeah youre right about the voltage clamping. Now that I think about it, I don't need to, because my piggyback clamps it at a voltage at what I set anyways.
I'd highly recommend reading badblackgs' roots supercharger thread as well as the single turbo thread. Both very interesting and I've read both of them page to page
I emailed split second. I want to know: 1) If I can use that unit strictly as a timing retard device from the crank/cam. I want to know if it will work with out freaking out if I don't have the the O2 sensors spliced in, and MAF (install instructions state this) because I don't want it to interfere with my well-working piggyback unit. 2) If the FTC-017D is the updated version of the FTC-017B. The old tacoma guys with the TRD superchargers were using the same FTC1-017B as the ISF guys used. Although again only the FTC1-017D are on the site.
So I received a response today from split second. Here is what he said:
The current revision is FTC1-017D. This is set for 6-cylinder applications. You can use a standard FTC1-017D, but the retard will be 1.5 times the indicated value. I think the FTC1-017D/4 would work properly. It is set for 4-cylinder. That will work because we use one of the IGF signals as a tach input. The V8 engines use a pair of IGF signals that each pulse at a 4-cylinder rate. You could use it for timing retard only. I can take your order for the FTC1-017D/4 by email.
dont skimp out on the o2 sensor skewing. its a big help for overall transition from closed loop to open loop. i know bc ive done alot of data logging to see how the fuel trims react when its activated. its the perfect transition to open loop bc the factory ecu sees a lean condition and throws more fuel right at the same time your adding fuel for boost to go richer. so they both work together seamlessly when its set up right. i tested my enricher module the other day by unplugging it and putting in the bypass and watching my afr gauge. it was obvious it took longer to go richer and stay there. make sure you hook up the o2 signal wires. WORTH IT.
Thanks bud, I think I'll just keep my setup the same for now, I dont hear any knock even on these 100 degree days. If it is detecting knock and retarding, I cant notice any power difference.
Here are some quick videos, Since them I have deflated my rear tires a bit. If I roll into the throttle to 20mph and stab it, it would spin. Actually anywhere below 40mph it will. I haven't drove it with the less rear tire PSI but it has to help. I have to be careful launching it, it's quite the difference from stock. Ill get better videos out too. Exhaust clips, drive bys, etc.
Vid 1 is 0-60 (rev limiter 1-2 bounced a tad but still not bad), Vid 2 is 80-100, and Vid 3 is them spliced together
I also got new 2012 IS350 wheels with 300 wear sticky summer tires already on them. Perfect condition, the owner only drove them one year before putting aftermarkets on and gave me a great deal. They look so much better than the completely rusted 2006 IS350 rims before. In fact they were so bad that the inner barrels would not hold wheel weights. They would always fly off, and the front two were bent anyways. So I'm really glad to not have a shake above 60mph any more!
I have some extra Michelin pilot super sports from the old rims though to put on when these other ones wear out.
I made an emblem as well with all OEM Lexus/Toyota badges. I bought a brand new 2010 "SC" portion of the "SC430" badge and cut the "S" and "C" apart. I was looking for something to use as the "/" in between to make the complete "S/C" badge. One day driving around at work I got stuck behind a Rav4 in traffic and knew exactly. I cut the "/" part out of the "v" in that emblem I bought and trimmed it. I then heavily sanded all emblem piece edges and surfaces and painted them with Satin Black engine enamel. I have to say, I really like the way it turned out.
09-03-17, 09:17 PM
