When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Eicca, I might still hold on to it just incase. If I do sell it to you, Id give a good price but I might need to keep the vacuum fittings because I will need to reuse them on the procharger intake hose. Mine also has a small crack near where it meets the throttle body. There is still the one on ebay if you really want one and you could modify that one even. Itd be easier than what I did.
Could you use the passenger side PCV as an oil return spot? Mine has been disconnected for a while because the vacuum fitting broke but I see zero traces of oil coming out of the line.
Wow I would think the return pressure would be ideal because it would suck the oil back in from the procharger but I guess not.
Right, the PCV cant be used because it is too high up to the headunit and wont be gravity fed enough.
Oil pressure switch tap info: I found specs on the switch and it is 1/8 x 28 ISO is a british thread (a M10 x1.0 starts to thread, but then binds up). NPT are 1/8 x 27 so those have the same threading issues. Lextreme says to retap the female thread on the oil filter housing to 1/8NPT (1/8 x 27) to easier fit and thread any T-fittings that will send to the procharger, but, nowadays this is kind of an old method because they have adapters available with no re-tapping needed.
The switch is removed by a 1/2 drive 24mm deep socket too
1/8NPT equals -3AN fitting. But they have 1/8NPT to -4AN adapters that I will need to a 1/4 thick braided line, going to a -4AN fitting on the procharger.
A site carries block off plates for the oil level sensor. You can even get them with a -10AN fitting already in the plate for $30 but my oil return hose will be -8an (due to stock fitting on procharger head unit) so I will get a plain plate, drill a hole, and have someone weld a -8an bung fitting. https://www.driftmotion.com/Driftmot...Z-p/dm3409.htm
It says for 1JZ/2JZ/1UZ but he says they even work on the 3UZ because the plates are all the same size.
Yes I read about people suggesting to use an aux battery powered oil pump too but I think thats more than I want to do.
I called Aaron at driftmotion. They have a british-to-NPT "T" fitting that will fit right into the oil pressure location with no tapping needed. ALTHOUGH the problem with this is they don't have 1/8" BSPT to -4AN couplers for the send, only 1/8" NPT to -4AN coupler. All this means is that it is better to get the "T" connector on eBay (it has a 1/8" NPT coupler and is stainless steel) and the 1/8" NPT to -4AN coupler from driftmotion, along with the oil level block off plate that has a -10AN coupler in it.
If this is confusing, check post #2 which is the official parts list. It gives part numbers and where you can buy them as well.
That looks like I'm pretty much done on the parts research for this build (except power steering hose size which I'm pretty sure is 1/2" and 3/8") so Ill just have to buy the rest and install them. I have scoured the internet and mocked up, measured and fitted alot of parts from work to see what will work.
Thanks badblackgs for those awesome tips that was the last piece of the puzzle for me!
Here is a pic/description of the T fitting from eBay:
what can I say. I love this kind of ****. and the simplest solution is always the best. diaphragms and pumps just gets complicated. plus it helps to get tips from someone whos been there done that. i will be following this thread. since you are going the procharger route, it would do well with a higher stall converter. I just posted my PI converter for sale on the classifieds section. it'll help get your rpms up quicker allowing your boost to come on quicker.
I love this stuff too man. Yeah I'm really trying to share the smallest details with this build to get a well-rounded amount of info all in one thread for everyone.
I actually installed a re-stalled OEM 3,000 RPM stall converter about 2.5 months ago and I love it, but I appreciate that!
I bought an OEM from someone on here and got it sent to the only company who responded to me, and it was in Kennedale, Texas.
I bought the OEM for about $100 with shipping, and $400 including shipping to and from, to re-stall it. It only took them a day to ship it back.
JD is an awesome ex-military guy who I highly recommend.
Why did you sell the supercharger manifold? Different style supercharger? The M112 is a roots correct so you will do a twin-screw?
I know you said those pics don't require words but...
It looks like an OEM lower manifold with a flat super charger mounting plate. I'm guessing because of your new hood, you can allow more clearance now?
You're using the same blower so why the different manifold?
Aww YES! I'm loving this thread! Thanks for the details and I mean all the details your adding on this build. You and Badblack are confusing the hell out of me to whether go roots type supercharger or centrifugal.
It is really no problem, I'm actually learning alot, especially about oil fittings for both superchargers and turbochargers. The dash-number AN (army navy) fittings, BSPT (british thread or ISO tapered), NPT (national pipe thread) and all their SAE x thread equivalents. Also learning how to build my own AN fitting hoses with steel braided lines and those are cool because the male nipples go inside of the hose that gets clamped down and threaded. This creates a perfect seal for gas, oil, or coolant if done properly and can be re-used with different fittings later, cut to different lengths, and last decades because of their rigidity. I will add alot more info to this thread everytime I update the build which is often.
As for roots/screw top mount blowers vs. centrifugal, the roots/screw type win the sound category no question. They also have more bottom end which probably feels almost similar to the low-end torque of the V12 motor in the Aston I drove.
The centrifugal/prochargers almost sound inbetween a turbo and roots type whine, sometimes with a whiff of turbine plane sound to my ears, and sometimes unfortunately have that "bad alternating bearing" sound, but if it's the right frequency it can sound cool. This is luck I think, and I am mainly judging from videos because I haven't seen too many prochargers in person.
The other question is if you want to cool the charge air chemically with water/methanol on the roots because you can't put one between the manifold due to height and you will have to cool that air somehow. Or, you can physically cool the air with an intercooler on the procharger, with the option to also use methanol along with it if wanted. I believe the amount of methanol sprayed has to be factored into the tune as well. For water/methanol you would also need to add a tank somewhere, pump, lines, and boost switch which usually come in kits, as well as buying and refilling the liquids.
I agree, I believe that no bolt-on aftermarket unit provides 100% cylinder to cylinder air distribution.
Mainly because, like you said, the runners aren't designed this way. For example, in a perfect situation, the runner to cylinder #1 would have the same length as cylinder #6 or unevenly tapered for same air paths
But one could say that this effect doesn't even matter as much, because air is compressed and forced into the cylinder so maybe the negative effects are outweighed?
Also, the 1UZFE and 3UZFE supposedly have pretty smooth flowing ports into the cylinders and I'm sure the 2JZ is the same.
I know I was surprised when I heard of the turbos mounted in the valley of the 4.0L V8 in the newer Mercedes AMG GTS.
Apparently the exhaust to turbo is so short that it has virtually no lag. The V8 torque probably helps, but I know someone who had that car and said it was very linear for a turbo.
alright man, enough with the speculation of proper design and what not. get that thing on there and fired up, than start making your way to getting 10 plus psi out of it. it will be a phenomenal feeling when your making over 400 to the rear wheels. when i had the turbo for a short time, at 11 psi. at WOT it literally felt like the front wheels were lifting off the ground. dont plan on it shifting at that power but during the gear, itll be sick.
Haha awesome your turbo set up was pretty impressive and powerful, that is awesome
I heard that 1990 Cressida and MKIII N/A Supras with 7mge engine have 315cc injectors over the 1UZFE VVTi 250cc injectors and they are high impedance that drop right in, other than slightly dremeling the connecters' plastic. The 1jzgte with vvti from the toyota crown are 380cc and do not need plug dremmeling.
EDIT: These above injectors do not work without modding. You have to cut the fuel rail spacers down a bit, and delete the air assist valves on the intake manifold behind the throttle body for both above injectors.
Injectors that drop in the 1UZ vvti and 3uz: 1996-1997 cars with the 2JZGE naturally aspirated engine, non-vvti, with blue tipped california (not federal brown tips) emissions have air assist. These cars were the SC300/Soarer, the GS300/Aristo, and MKIV Supra. Plug connectors and impedance are the same. 14ohms but 310cc instead of oem 250cc
EDIT AGAIN: The 310cc injectors are a little dangerous for 350rwhp or more. They can probably work, but you do not want to chance this with forced induction. 370cc are usually for cars with 470hp (5.0L coyotes, SRT8s, Camaros et.c) but that is naturally aspirated. For forced induction, you want slightly bigger because we require a richer mixture.
I'll Mazda RX8 Yellow 430cc Secondary injectors from the manual cars with grommets from the Primary Red Injectors. Because they are denso connectors, they are 100% plug and play connector-wise with the 1992-2005 lexus gs/sc.
Talk to my boy at Osidetiger about injectors. tell him Ian from Austin sent ya'. hes the one I bought the 550cc nikki injectors from when I ran the turbo. I paid 350 for 8 of them. all cleaned and ready to go. but what are you gonna use to control the injectors??? and be prepared for the maf sensor to max out at that much air flow and set a p0101 code for mass air flow performance.
Okay awesome thanks for the contact. Thats a good price, I just hope mine are around that because the stock injectors on one bank are a different size than the other bank.
I have the APEXI neo. In closed loop it will probably tune itself and then I won't have to add as much fuel with bigger injectors during full throttle.
I've never heard of the MAF being maxed out with a procharger, in fact it's really difficult for most people to get 400rwhp on superchargers
If it does, maybe I can go with a supra TT MAF (part # 22250-46030), since the charge pipe will have a custom flange on it anyways. I'll just figure out the wiring which is an area I happen to shine in. This is all assuming it reacts with the Apexi and ECU okay. I have to cut the OEM MAF wires anyways when I do this because it won't reach right now.
05-23-17, 10:10 PM
