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Cleared out my garage and put my 95 sc300 in there.
After much internal debate, I decided NA-T was the way I wanted to go.
I bought this car from an old man when I lived in Washington. Completely stock, factory 5 speed. Decent paint, no major body damage.
I figured if I was going to do a clean build with expensive parts, this was it.
Started the removal of stock components that won't be used for the build.
Picked these up in Washington, some old HA's that came off an MK4 Supra. Probably going to replace them with a baller set once I find wheels and get the turbo put in.
More stock part removal.
EGR delete in progress, if you need this let me know, Florida doesn't do emissions tests.
I've decided to go with the CX Racing kit. I know it's not the best or most expensive, but the reviews I read were a lot better than I expected.
The parts I'm replacing with name brand stuff include the BOV, oil feed and drain lines, the intake, probably the wastegate, and someday (when they give us a raise lol) the turbo.
I picked the kit up from my buddy's shop and when we were checking the kit for everything, I was extremely pleased at the quality of the turbo and the manifold. The gaskets are **** so I ordered some quality ones, as well as oem Toyota gaskets for various parts on the car like the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, throttle body, valve covers, intermediate plenum etc.. Who knew that exhaust manifold gaskets were close to 50 *****in dollars?
I also started fitting the manifold and the turbo to see where and how it would need to be clocked. It fits with the ABS unit btw, just super tight. I'll get specs on my kit next update if anyone's interested.
Also, I sent my valve covers off to get powder coated. I'll post pictures when I get them back.
Last edited by zneubauer; 04-09-17 at 04:50 PM.
Reason: name change
Traded in the SUV, the wife and I bought a minivan. Such a huge step up, with a lot more power than I expected it to have. #dadlife
I purchased an engine support bar from Harbor Freight at the suggestion of a few people. I'll be using it to drill the oil pan for the return line. I've included pictures of how I rigged up the chains. They seem a bit smaller than they should be but I tested them and they held up. I might just buy thicker chains for the piece of mind for when I actually keep the motor suspended for hours while I take off the subframe and the oil pan to drill it. I'll post more detailed photos of my oil pan adventure when it comes to it.
I went under the brace of the intake manifold and under the mount bracket on the exhaust side.
Exhaust gaskets came in. They were pretty expensive, but for good reason. Forgive the ****ty photo quality, all photos taken in a shady garage with a camera phone.
OEM oil filters are always my preferred way to go. Posted in case anyone needs the part number.
Went to the hardware store to replace a lot of the really nasty fasteners and the low quality ones that came with the turbo kit. I recommend grade 10 or better. The ones that came with the kit were too long so had to shorten them up when I bought replacements. If anyone needs the specs on the new bolts feel free to PM me. Fitting the turbo to the manifold with the new gasket I purchased. Pretty much all of the gaskets and bolts that came with the kit were cheap and I wouldn't use them unless its for a very short time. They've all been since replaced.
I'll post some more pics in the coming days of lowering the subframe and how I went about doing it. It's pretty straight forward.
Copped this online from an Austrailian site. Took a small mechanical break and now back at it.
I was extremely pleased at the quality of the turbo
If you can see tolerances less than .001" and detect alloy composition your eyes are better than mine. The Chinese have learned that buffing off the sharp edges and polishing the flat surfaces really helps sales, and is far cheaper than making a better product.
The Chinese are becoming a lot more intuitive when it comes to their customer base. First it was the price, now its the quality. I'm a lot more pleased than I expected to be.
300 is a practically stock engine with no speed equipment, not even a valve job, limited to 15 psi, 550cc injectors, big pump, intercooler and tune.
My stock JDM Aristo GTE using the original twins @ 15 psi, 550s, 255 LH, Apexi Neo, big piping, 3" Vibrant exhaust, and HKS 264 (baby) cams is about 520 at the crank.
What I have so far is gte hg, and arp studs, walbro 255. I'm planning to get log style bottom mount mani, t61, 440 cc injectors, running on aristo ecu. Do you think the t61 turbo is too big for the hp I'm looking for? It's rated for 550hp.
The valve covers are still at the shop getting powder coated. I don't have the equipment so doing it myself was out of the question. Will post pics when they return.
I have removed the upper and lower oil pan and will post pics of that hopefully today when I get back under the car. I sent the oil pan off to be drilled and cold-tanked.
I have since purchased and received my injectors from OsideTiger. This was actually recommended to me on here and I am very grateful for that because these guys are awesome. 10/10 would recommend.
I have removed my midframe/subframe thing to facilitate removal of the lower oil pan before removing the upper oil pan. Currently cleaning and pressure washing before re-installation.
I want to boost my sc300 soon too. When you say aristo ecu, does that mean that youre completely replacing your current ecu with that one (standalone)? The other option would be to use a piggyback (AEM) in addition to your current ecu - is that correct?
Just got some things in this past week and I picked up my oil pan from the shop. Valve covers are still gone.
I want to get some more pictures enderneath the car, that way anyone planning on removing that ***** of an oil pan will have a better game plan going in than I did.
The main thing is to just make space. The mid subframe must come off. The front subframe with the rack is a different story. This job can be done without completely removing the front subframe. With that being said, from personal experience, if you have the ability and the patience, remove it all together. It will make it so much easier. However, if you choose to go my route, you will still need to lower it on it's bolts.
Purchased from www.driftmotion.com
Very high quality, extremely pleased with the price. EGR block off plates for the 2JZ-GE.
Started the wrapping of the CX manifold. there are some issues with it, as there are very tight spaces even the wrap can't fit through. 99% of the manifold will still be able to be wrapped if you have the patience for it.
This bolt, on the inboard side of the exhaust housing, requires you to remove the rest of the turbo in order to bolt it to the manifold.
This bolt, on the outboard side of the exhaust housing, is almost impossible to get it, therefore I put in a set screw with a flange nut to hold it down. THIS ONE MUST GO ON FIRST.
The Russell part label for the AN hose end I've fitted for the CX turbo in case anyone needs it.
The Russell part label for the fitting adapter for the turbo oil drain. I highly recommend this one, as it fits perfectly, which is important due to space constriction.
Since your engine will not have all sorts of hottness under the hood and in the lines, I highly recommend going with the Mishimoto thermostat. This is the same one for the Supra. Note the factory placement of the hole in the rim of the thermostat.
Whiteline makes a very decent and affordable rack and pinion bushing kit. You might as well get these out of the way while your subframe is dropped/lowered.
Supra aftermarket AN drain flange. Again, very good quality and an affordable price. www.driftmotion.com
Aaaaaand this is what the drain hole looks like now. The bolt holes are drilled and tapped to the same specs as the oil pan bolts. Making the hole as big as it allows ensures freedom of flow for returning oil. Ill probably post the bolt specs in case anyone is curious.
yo yo yo if you can help me come up with a name for this thread, the one i choose will get a sticker in the mail. I promise no **** stickers either (sorry james).
On thing you should consider with the oil pan drain is to completely smooth it out. This way there is no restriction what so ever. I made my opening as big as possible to ensure that oil flows with no hesitation. Sense the pan is off and out, id take a dermal to it and "port it". Make it bigger on the inside like a cone shape. Draining oil from the turbo is very important as some turbo's don't like a lot of oil, just enough to keep the bearings cool lubricated. Just my 2cents from my experience.
04-09-17, 04:49 PM
NA-T build I guess
