NA-T build I guess
11-05-17, 08:52 AM
#16
UPDATE
Sorry for such a long wait, I've been dealing with school and work, all the while stocking up on parts for this and figuring out little
odds and ends for you who plan on choosing this kit as your go-to NA-T kit.
I've had quite a bit of trouble getting some things situated at first. Once you remove
the expectation that everything will fit as intended, you really open your mind up instead of
trying to power through something that won't work.
So if you get the CX kit, expect to spend some extra money on little things like hoses, washers, bolts, nuts and fittings.
With that being said, everything is a tight fit on this. CX did a very good job of keeping the necessary body modifications to a minimum in order to run this kit.
This kit allows you to keep your A/C and ABS.
Absolutely no need to remove either of those things, unless you want the extra room or reduced weight.
For the oil drain line, I know I posted that I bought a 90 degree elbow for the drain. That end will be going to the oil pan.
The other end, on the turbo, will be a 45 degree elbow of the same size. Get more hose than you need because you will need to cut an exact fit once it is mocked up.
The heat wrapping was very tight, I wasn't able to go all the way around everything, I'm sure there is a way to do it. I did make sure that where my oil drain goes through the center of the manifold (going under the turbo will not work due to the necessary position at which the turbo need to be clocked to utilize the intercooler piping provided with the kit) the manifold is wrapped up there. You might have to double it up, but you will also need a large cable to cover the two tubes.
To clear up some question I had when doing it, the oil pan can be dropped, you just need to lower the subframe and remove a few braces to get it out. I used a hoist that rested on the engine bay itself.
Everything else as far as putting it back together is pretty cut and dry. You will need to remove the front bumper in order to fit the intercooler, and the headlights need to go to get to the bumper. Only one hole should need to be cut and that's the hole that the throttle body IC piping will use. The IC piping from the turbo will go underneath the frame of the car.
I will post more pictures through the week, I just need to get un-lazy and actually do it.
Sorry for such a long wait, I've been dealing with school and work, all the while stocking up on parts for this and figuring out little
odds and ends for you who plan on choosing this kit as your go-to NA-T kit.
I've had quite a bit of trouble getting some things situated at first. Once you remove
the expectation that everything will fit as intended, you really open your mind up instead of
trying to power through something that won't work.
So if you get the CX kit, expect to spend some extra money on little things like hoses, washers, bolts, nuts and fittings.
With that being said, everything is a tight fit on this. CX did a very good job of keeping the necessary body modifications to a minimum in order to run this kit.
This kit allows you to keep your A/C and ABS.
Absolutely no need to remove either of those things, unless you want the extra room or reduced weight.
For the oil drain line, I know I posted that I bought a 90 degree elbow for the drain. That end will be going to the oil pan.
The other end, on the turbo, will be a 45 degree elbow of the same size. Get more hose than you need because you will need to cut an exact fit once it is mocked up.
The heat wrapping was very tight, I wasn't able to go all the way around everything, I'm sure there is a way to do it. I did make sure that where my oil drain goes through the center of the manifold (going under the turbo will not work due to the necessary position at which the turbo need to be clocked to utilize the intercooler piping provided with the kit) the manifold is wrapped up there. You might have to double it up, but you will also need a large cable to cover the two tubes.
To clear up some question I had when doing it, the oil pan can be dropped, you just need to lower the subframe and remove a few braces to get it out. I used a hoist that rested on the engine bay itself.
Everything else as far as putting it back together is pretty cut and dry. You will need to remove the front bumper in order to fit the intercooler, and the headlights need to go to get to the bumper. Only one hole should need to be cut and that's the hole that the throttle body IC piping will use. The IC piping from the turbo will go underneath the frame of the car.
I will post more pictures through the week, I just need to get un-lazy and actually do it.
Last edited by zneubauer; 11-05-17 at 09:00 AM.
11-07-17, 11:43 AM
#18
Nice build! Almost there. I have a couple quick qeustions. I have the same manifold but with a BW S360 but I have some issues. Can you post a pic of your drain line? Also how do you have the thermostat housing mounted? It doesn't fit factory for me. I had to flip it down so the radiator hose goes straight down. But that created anohther problem. Now I have to somehow squeeze my dumptube in between intercooler piping and radiator hose. I was wondering maybe you noticed something I haven't yet! Lasts steps so we can both start cranking lol.
11-13-17, 03:57 PM
#19
Nice build! Almost there. I have a couple quick qeustions. I have the same manifold but with a BW S360 but I have some issues. Can you post a pic of your drain line? Also how do you have the thermostat housing mounted? It doesn't fit factory for me. I had to flip it down so the radiator hose goes straight down. But that created anohther problem. Now I have to somehow squeeze my dumptube in between intercooler piping and radiator hose. I was wondering maybe you noticed something I haven't yet! Lasts steps so we can both start cranking lol.
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