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I drove it today! After replacing the coils, caps, rotors. I drove it to get the VIN inspection needed for a bonded title. When I got home I couldn't resist doing a baby burnout.
I don't know why there are TWO skids. I have not welded diff. It's probably the tires, they are like 8 years old and dry as a bone, and snow tires. I have some leg-work to do with title and registration before I get too invested in this thing. Next up is emissions testing for Phoenix.
P.S. This car qualifies for classic car registration which doesn’t require emissions testing.
Last edited by Gerrex; 03-20-19 at 08:04 AM.
Reason: To too dumb
Thank you for your kind words of encouragement, Darren.
I look for the simple solution. Sometimes it works out in my favor. I don't have loads of spare time to spend on the wrench, so I research, think, plan, and repeat until I know what I want to accomplish when I do get time to turn wrenches.
I know how these projects can turn into quicksand; I've been pulled in before and they are very difficult to get out of. I have to tell myself to take it slow, constantly. It's easy to get sidetracked by little fixes here and there that ALWAYS come up during the big fixes.
I have a TINY YouTube channel. NOT A 2J is the name of the channel. @NOTA2J on Twitter. NOT A 2J on Instagram also. I plan to SEND IT! in one of the Drift N Drags events that they have at Wildhorse Pass Motorsports Park in Chandler; some day.
I only have a TINY YouTube channel with two SHORT vids. Gerrett0114 is the name of the channel. I plan on running it in one of the Drift N Drags events that they have at Wildhorse Pass Motorsports Park in Chandler; some day.
Right on, I have one as well, I just subscribed to you on it. Look forward to seeing more updates! Idk if you are a big social media person, but there is a facebook group called Az.Lexus Club, and we tend to throw meets together every once and awhile.
So I went to move the SC so I could clean out my garage, and no start; no spark. So now I get to test ignitors. If I keep having problems with this ignition setup, I'm going to consider COP sooner rather than later.
I think my symptoms and history fit with ECU caps being the source of some , if not all of the issues I've been having, like;
car has been sitting a WHILE
idle is rough
trans shifts weird
stinky exhaust
now, no spark
Since it has been done before, and so well, I won't do a step-by-step, just a before and after shot of my findings. Unless I REALLY mess it up.
Thanks Megamax, I have several goals for this project. My first goal it to simply get it to run reliably. Next is to get ready for a drift event with as little money spent as possible (weld diff, tires, gas). If my project manager (wife) has enough fun, my budget for upgrades may get bigger.
A 2J swap doesn't interest me, it bores me. I'm a V8 guy in my soul. If the uz doesn't provide enough power NA for drifting, then a turbo may be in its future. If turbo is needed; the HP goal is a modest 350-400.
Bottom line; I don't have the budget to plan and execute a pro-quality build quickly. I'll take my time and progress as far as costs stay reasonable, for a hobby.
In response to my post above about performing detailed PCB repair/rework; I decided to take a crack at it. I mean, how hard can it be? I couldn't possibly screw it up MORE.
I immediately screwed it up more. I've been wrestling with the embarrassment and decided that someone may learn from my mistake and, so, here goes...
I ordered a set of replacement capacitors from ebay, the good ones, from a US based seller etc etc. I then opened it up and had a closer look around and noticed that one of the capacitors is difficult to access; it is tucked under the frame of the computer on the plug side and would be very difficult to get solder + iron in there at the same time. I thought it would be easier to take the board out of the frame like with the other side and it would be easier to access. I'll just unscrew it from the frame like I had done with the other board. I turned it over and opened the back of the computer. This is where one of the two boards, it seems, is not meant to be taken off of the frame, easily. there are 5 or 6 phillips screws holding the board to the frame and the heads are filled with solder... pretty good indicator that they should not be removed. So, yes, I used some tiny pliers and turned one screw loose.
DO NOT DO THIS TO YOUR COMPUTER!
The head of the screw is soldered to a ground path for some of the components on the board. This copper pad came OUT OF the board. So this meant an incomplete circuit for about 25% of the components on the board. This is not good. Here's the damage.
I have a plan to fix that eff-up. Also, I have ordered another used ecu which I'll send out for professional repair while I ghetto-fab this one and see of I can make it work.
I continued in a different area and de-soldered the bad capacitor in the photo at post #24, and also did a bit of clean-up with baking soda and alcohol.
You can see where the capacitor goes at C507(bottom left pic). Those ports are a bit corroded so some more cleaning is necessary. I got my meter out and tested the surface mount resistors around the corroded area. The ones marked 102 measured about 1K ohms, they are supposed to,. The one marked 202 measured like 6.8 Mega Ohms, it isn't supposed to, it should be 2k ohms. I ordered three replacements, just in case.
There is another area that needs attention that is apparent in this pic:
The trace coming out of the top of the 202 resistor at R885 is corroded and also does not form a complete circuit from the resistor to the end of the corroded area, as tested with my meter.
04-25-17, 08:49 PM
. The one marked 202 measured like 6.8 Mega Ohms, it isn't supposed to
, it should be 2k ohms. I ordered three replacements, just in case.