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I took this pic last time I was while I was waiting on pit road at barber.
Thought it was pretty cool that the gps actually showed the track lay out.
But then next time at Road Atlanta it didn't show it...
i don't think invidia can bolt onto other midpipe or axle-back. It has to be a set.
It does not fit. I tried using the midpipe with the stock axle back and the midpipe flange is just a little too big. It could just be me, but I was not able to get it on. I'm sure you can do some adjustments to get it to fit, but I was not willing to mess with my stock pipes. The only way I was able to kind of get it to work was to possibly go without the flange for the midpipe and get longer bolts. I did not want to do that either. If you would like to give it a try, I do have the midpipe sitting around for sale.
It does not fit. I tried using the midpipe with the stock axle back and the midpipe flange is just a little too big. It could just be me, but I was not able to get it on. I'm sure you can do some adjustments to get it to fit, but I was not willing to mess with my stock pipes. The only way I was able to kind of get it to work was to possibly go without the flange for the midpipe and get longer bolts. I did not want to do that either. If you would like to give it a try, I do have the midpipe sitting around for sale.
Thanks for the heads up.
I’m not wanting to mod the oem fit neither.
Holding my breath waiting for the PPE mid pipe to release.
Took some time today to wet sand then buff out my carbon fiber hood. It had some blemishes in the clear coat and didn’t want it on the car till the finish was right and then the xpel can gets put on.
Hood has been hanging on my garage wall for last few months. Finally can get it on the car now.
Disappointment!
I bought the Figs rear camber kit-links 1 & 2 a while back. Finally installed few days ago.
Waa hoping to get more camber on the rear since my fronts are at -3 now. Was wanting to set it at around -2 degrees.
But after setting at -2, my street wheels would scrub the coils. Had to go back to -1.2 in order to clear.
The oem arms were at -1.2 already after lowering with coilovers, so essentially the Figs goodies did nothing.
For people who want positive camber, great. For track junkies like me, not much benefit. At least not with the wheel off set & rim size. What a waste of money & effort. Super bummed.
Also, my RR Penske developed a leak on the right rear coilover.
RR was kind enough to ship me a shock first, so I can swap everything out and send the leaky one back.
Normally I’m suppose to dismount faulty one, send back for inspection, then they would send replacement. But that means a long down time or I’d have to reinstall the oem ones temporarily.
I thank Simon from RR for extending me the new part first. Great customer service.
Now I await Penske to see if my leaky shock is under warranty. I’m hoping so.
The ARH mid pipe I got is still rubbing & making grinding noises.
I thought I had the clearance issue fixed after I grinded down 2 bolts and a bit of the chassis cross bracing. But I was wrong. When the pipe heats up, I guess the pipe diameter grows, it rubs vs when it’s cold, it doesn’t.
Still haven’t taken the old meisterschaft mid pipe to the shop to see if they can cut a couple resonators in.
May hold out for the PPE version to release. Will see.
I'm running 20x11 & 305/30 and I'm NOT RUBBING...Plus, I DON'T have LINK-1 as well...
What's your Wheel & Tire Specs...
I've experienced this myself, but I was at -4 degrees...
Maybe, a Very aggressive wheel setup in the future will relief this situation on your quest for negative camber...
Originally Posted by Mingofish
Some updates:
Took some time today to wet sand then buff out my carbon fiber hood. It had some blemishes in the clear coat and didn’t want it on the car till the finish was right and then the xpel can gets put on.
Hood has been hanging on my garage wall for last few months. Finally can get it on the car now.
Disappointment!
I bought the Figs rear camber kit-links 1 & 2 a while back. Finally installed few days ago.
Waa hoping to get more camber on the rear since my fronts are at -3 now. Was wanting to set it at around -2 degrees.
But after setting at -2, my street wheels would scrub the coils. Had to go back to -1.2 in order to clear.
The oem arms were at -1.2 already after lowering with coilovers, so essentially the Figs goodies did nothing.
For people who want positive camber, great. For track junkies like me, not much benefit. At least not with the wheel off set & rim size. What a waste of money & effort. Super bummed.
Also, my RR Penske developed a leak on the right rear coilover.
RR was kind enough to ship me a shock first, so I can swap everything out and send the leaky one back.
Normally I’m suppose to dismount faulty one, send back for inspection, then they would send replacement. But that means a long down time or I’d have to reinstall the oem ones temporarily.
I thank Simon from RR for extending me the new part first. Great customer service.
Now I await Penske to see if my leaky shock is under warranty. I’m hoping so.
The ARH mid pipe I got is still rubbing & making grinding noises.
I thought I had the clearance issue fixed after I grinded down 2 bolts and a bit of the chassis cross bracing. But I was wrong. When the pipe heats up, I guess the pipe diameter grows, it rubs vs when it’s cold, it doesn’t.
Still haven’t taken the old meisterschaft mid pipe to the shop to see if they can cut a couple resonators in.
May hold out for the PPE version to release. Will see.
^^^
yeah bro, knew you were gonna comment on the rear camber.
I think my rear coilovers are way lower than yours.
Zero finger gap between tire & fender.
I think if I raised it up an inch, I could prolly clear.
Next time. Gonna roll like this for next track day and see how it feels.
put this weight saving lil mod in today.
Easy install.
Nice build! Installed my rr-racing lithium battery. How do I remove the thin metal rod that was used to hold the top bracket that held in the OEM battery? (Please see pics). It's that pesky lil guy hanging out by the relay and fuse box right across from the battery. Do I just tap it out with a hammer? Somehow I forgot about it until after my install. Lol. Thanks!!
^^^
Hey Koni
i actually don’t remember. It all just came out pretty smooth for me. Don’t remember anything I had to fight with.
Guessing it’s just jammed. Tap downwards to loosen may be? I don’t recollect. Sorry bro.
Heading out today to track for a bit to tune the rear suspension since I replaced the blown Penske.
Going with fellow CL member MisterEun. Gonna have fun with Eun! Couldn’t resist.
Saw a scrub mark on the rear coil while I was swapping track wheels...
That’s something new. Wheels has never scrubbed anything. Guess the blown shock allowed a lot more travel.
That wheel is all scratched up on the inside lip. Sigh..
Also a few pic of the Figs rear arms that were installed few weeks ago.
Could you clarify...So, the rim/spring scrubbing was from your (Street)wheels and NOT your(Track) wheels...
I'm asking because my new fitment is TIGHT and trying to figure out if I could change over to true Coilovers...If so, must run really aggressive offsets...Or just stick with what I got...
Thanks
Originally Posted by Mingofish
Heading out today to track for a bit to tune the rear suspension since I replaced the blown Penske.
Going with fellow CL member MisterEun. Gonna have fun with Eun! Couldn’t resist.
Saw a scrub mark on the rear coil while I was swapping track wheels...
That’s something new. Wheels has never scrubbed anything. Guess the blown shock allowed a lot more travel.
That wheel is all scratched up on the inside lip. Sigh..
Also a few pic of the Figs rear arms that were installed few weeks ago.
How much did you lower the car? Wheel arch heights are not what chassis tuners use to measure ride height. The best measurement is the inside LCA bolt to the ground. It is consistent from car to car and is never affected the way body panels are. If you lowered it more than 10mm, you probably made many things worse, not better.
Have you measured tire temperatures across the tread on all four wheels? That will tell you more about what you need to change than anything.
Could you clarify...So, the rim/spring scrubbing was from your (Street)wheels and NOT your(Track) wheels...
I'm asking because my new fitment is TIGHT and trying to figure out if I could change over to true Coilovers...If so, must run really aggressive offsets...Or just stick with what I got...
Thanks
Yes, the red Rennen wheels with “unknown” offset (which I think is 38 if my measurements are good) was the ones that scrubbed. The blk Advan wheels are 35 and didn’t scrub.
But..I had a blown shock so the rear end got sorta bouncy for a few days.
So you really can’t go by what happened on my car during that time as a judge for what you’re trying to do.
Also, if you set your car not super low, the oem camber won’t be so negative.
But I remember your car is pretty low currently.
Guess you will have to crawl under the car on an alignment rack while the suspension is loaded and measure.
How much did you lower the car? Wheel arch heights are not what chassis tuners use to measure ride height. The best measurement is the inside LCA bolt to the ground. It is consistent from car to car and is never affected the way body panels are. If you lowered it more than 10mm, you probably made many things worse, not better.
Have you measured tire temperatures across the tread on all four wheels? That will tell you more about what you need to change than anything.
"A fast car isn't usually easy to drive"
Lance,
I don’t recall the oem height so I couldn’t tell you how much it got lowered. My guess would be like 1.5” or more.
I’ve never done the height measurement like you said.
Always been told to measure from ground to center of wheel arch.
The instructions from RR on Penske install says to not lower more than 25.5” worth of distance.
Mine have always been 26-26.5” or so. Currently at 26.25”
I am considering raising the back end back up to like 26.75 to get a lil more travel on the stroke.
The compression is fairly neutral but rebound is set almost max ( like a 1/4 turn from max of 4 whole turns) but yet I feel the car still is a tad bit bouncy on rear end when I hit larger bumps on the track.
No I haven’t measured tire temp. Was planning on getting a pyrometer but got slack and never ordered. I will do that.
Once again today on track, my braking power was not where I like it to be, so I’m sure camber is too negative for the car/track. On next alignment, will prob go back to around -2 on the front vs currently -3.
Well..1st lap out on track today and got flagged for sound.
Even now with the ARH resonated mid pipe—my Mesti Ti exhaust wide open—still hit 105db.
Had to close the exhaust valve almost all the way shut to get the car to stay under 98db sound limit at AMP.
Sigh....
10-03-17, 09:06 PM
