Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I decided to go with a prothane bushing set for the rear. The entire prothane rear end kit is cheaper than buying the 2 bushings I needed from super pro. Something to note for anyone that is planning on doing this - A hydraulic press will make it easier, but most of the rear end bushings can be done with a ball joint press. The rear UCA is the only one that having a press would work the best. Otherwise, you would have to burn out the bushing and use a hack saw to cut the sleeves and slowly chisel them out.

The prothane kit replaces - UCA, LCA inner and shock mount, Traction rod, toe rod, and knuckle. The toe rod bushing will also fit as the shock mount bushing just in case you guys ever needed to make it work.


Comparison of my prothane and old daizen bushings (from 10 years ago). The part numbers are identical.


Pressed out my old bushings


Mocked up the old bushings before applying grease (if you guys were wondering how it's installed)


After thinking about it, if my LCA was bent, then it's more likely I would have less camber. This swap may end up being a waste of time.

My friend suggested changing the eccentric bolts instead because when they wear down they don't operate as smoothly and can throw off the adjustments.

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

It's gonna be squeaking like rats in New York sewers on cold winter nights.

https://www.organizedgaragestatus.co...xus-SC300SC400

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I've always heard that, but my car has had poly front and rear on most of the bushings since 2010, and I've never encountered the squeaking.

Your diy was really helpful the 1st time I did the SC RUCA bushings. This is my 4th set now, so I already got it memorized.

*Edit* I wrote all this up for a fb post for Anthony, so I'm going to add it in here too.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I had my 1st successful trip to the junkyard to get SC parts. Every time I've been before, someone else already trashed the interior.

I found the A pillar trim and an undamaged rear speaker cover. The trim isn't perfect, but it's in better condition than my current trim.

I also been looking into finishing a project from earlier this year (refinishing the brakes and possibly the wheels). I received my sample colors for powder coating.


The grays aren't quite what I was hoping for. The yellows, the one on the far right is definitely the color I want for my brakes.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

After letting some friends test drive my car, they pointed out my car has a lot of wind noise. I tried a ghetto fix I found in the GS forums before ordering new door seals.




It worked great the first day, then the strip went flat and it stopped working. lol


Ordered a HD under tray from https://jzz30.com/






Came with some finger prints, but overall it's a really nice piece. The HD model is twice as thick as the standard version. I'm not sure if it's necessary, but I don't regret buying it. I need to find the black bar that attached to the sub frame before I can install it. I removed the factory bar when my stock plastic under tray got torn.

I also ordered their painted keyhole covers. I've been wanting these for a while, but was hesitant to buy them because of dwp paint match issues.


I had the tires dismounted from the volks since I'm unexpectedly selling them to my friend this weekend. He's going to be in town for a wedding and told me at the last minute he was driving instead of flying here. They'll be going on a black SC (which will probably look better). I told my friend that if he ever buys new wheels, I'll buy the volks back.


The wheels weigh 17.8lbs for a 18x10 +40 if anyone was curious.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I'm having more PS issues with the car. Over the weekends I noticed that there was a vibration when I turned the steering wheel full lock and backing out of parking spots. It happened a couple of times throughout the day. I'm guessing there is a small leak that allows air to get sucked into the rack when I turn the wheel full lock.


I found the bracket needed to mount the undertray, so it'll be getting installed some time this week.



I thought it was kind of weird that there wasn't a hole drilled to clear this nut, but it's not a big deal. The factory tray has nothing here either.


Also, went to the junkyard today to pull parts off a wrecked 98 DWP SC300. I got some nice good condition trims that weren't cracked. The scew holes broke when I removed the screws. I'm going to look for a solution to fix them.


I got the driver side door panel too. The passenger side had a cut, so I left it behind.


After the first round of cleaning.


I have about 2.5 weeks left to detail the car and install all the new interior bits before the Japanese Classic Car Show.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Ordered a harmonic balancer to replace mine when I change the radiator.


Finally got to install my JZZ30 under tray. Kind of regretting not buying the brand new hardware.




All washed up to cruise around for labor day weekend

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Installed my JZZ30 keyhole covers


Ordered spare clutch pedals (since they're prone to breaking) and manual brake pedal, so I'll have them before they get discontinued


Part numbers for anyone that is interested (clutch on the left, brake pedal on the right)

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Picked up my brand new lights from the dealer last weekend. I scheduled an appointment with Wrap Armor to install Suntek Ultra over the lights. Luckily, they were able to fit me into their schedule yesterday.

The film is amazingly clear. I couldn't tell that they installed the film even though I was watching them do it. lol





Tried out my new CR Spotless and washed the car last night. The CR filters the water for a spot free rinse which means I won't have to dry the car. I chickened out and didn't leave the car to dry. I only left the water on the wheels since any water spots could be polished off. I'm glad to say that there were no spots once it dried.


Lights will be going on later tonight since I need to buy new bolts to install the fogs. My old ones must have came loose from vibrations. Amazingly, the lights were still in my bumper.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I picked up some stainless steel hardware for my fogs. The fogs have 3 mounting points requiring 2 bolts + fender washers and 1 nut + fender washer. The bolts are M5x.8x12mm. I assumed the rear nut and washer would be M5 too, but it was smaller (I'm guessing a M4).



New on the left and old on the right. The new fogs, aren't much of a difference.


Swapping the bulbs on to the new bulb connectors


New fogs installed with headlight mocked up.




The lights and seals are sold separately and it took a few tries to get the seal installed correctly. At first, I installed them too far forward and it bulged out when I closed the hood (as seen in the picture).




At JCCS




The new headlight club:


The rest of my JCCS photos can be found in this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...jccs-pics.html

RudysSC

Those brand new lights are drool worthy! I hand polish mine every month or so to keep them clear currently.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I opened the box with my friends and it was dead silent for a couple seconds before we were all like, "wow...."

You should try sanding the lights down and spraying a good quality clear coat over them or installing a clear film with UV protection. Spraymax 2k clear is around $20 a can or a LaminX film kit is $60.

The lenses on my old lights weren't bad, but the issue I had was the chrome inside was damaged. I think this was because of me baking the lights to take them a part while doing the TSX retrofit. You can see the damaged chrome in this photo. It makes my lights look gunmetal instead of reflective like Nick's lights


I had PPF film installed on the new lights and used LED bulbs instead of a retrofit, but the light output sucks in comparison.

RudysSC

Ah I see what you're saying. I wouldn't have noticed unless you pointed it out to me.

I've definitely considered it and need to do something about it. A clear headlight on these cars goes such a long ways in maintaining their classic look.

shajbot

iTrader: (3)

Them headlights are mint AF. Didn't know you can still order them from Toyota/Lexus. Now the high beams need to match up .

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Clean headlights are the best cosmetic mod you can do to these cars.

Headlight Assembly - 5 pairs available, but I expect this number to drop in the near future once my friends heard. lol
Headlight housing - still available, but I didn't ask quantity
High beam assembly - discontinued
High beam housing - I didn't ask
97+ Foglight Assembly - Discontinued
97+ Foglight Housings - 8 Pairs available
97+ Tail light assembly - Discontinued
97+ Tail light housing - 7 Pairs available