gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Nice wheels ... damn , now I guess you can help us know what is the biggest rotors and calipers that will fit on those o-disk rims at 18" . Though I am getting 19x12" , knowing info about the 18s" will help a lot. There will be less chances for me at least to get the wrong offset and not fit the kind of BBKs I wanted .

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I'm working on that already. I don't have access to a brembo gt-r kit. The best I can do is the gs-f which is also a 380mm 6 piston bbk.

*Edit* I tried the 355mm stoptech trophy kit with a ST40 caliper (4 piston) template on the 18" meister and it won't work. The face of the wheel touches the caliper edge and the inner diameter of the rim isn't large enough.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Car guy arts and crafts = making bbk templates. haha

355mm Stoptech trophy kit 6 piston
355mm Stoptech trophy kit 4 piston
380mm Brembo GTR 6 piston


None of the above will fit 18" meisters or my 18" hre. They're both stepped lip, so it hits the 17" face.

18x10 +40 TE37SL barely clears a 380mm 6 piston GS-F brake




I should be able to test fit a set of 19" meisters for you over the gs-f brakes in about a month.

jimmymac30

iTrader: (8)

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Would you say then that with 19" and a smaller offset than +40 , like let's say +25 , all the aforementioned BBKs will fit ? ... more space for the length of the caliper and 15mm more space in between face of caliper and back face of meister spokes since it will push the wheel outward ... what do you think ?

The O-DISK will be great since they will have the widest lip .

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

They won't even come close to clearing.

The offsets won't fix anything in this situation. Changing to a 19" wheel will allow the 355mm brakes to clear.

This is what the 355mm with a ST40 (4 Piston) looks like behind the 18" Meister with an R-disk face. The areas where it hits are circled in red.


I added a 5mm spacer to simulate a T-disk face. It stops the caliper from touching the face, but the barrel is still too small.


Here is the Brembo GTR 380mm, 6 piston template in my 18" TE37SL. It doesn't have any contact issues with the face, but it does touch the barrel of the wheel. This means the caliper is larger than the one used on the GS-F. (All the clothes pins are used to balance the weight of the cardboard, so I can take pictures.


The area where the ST40 caliper made contact with the meisters measured roughly 16.125" in diameter and the area where the 6 piston/380mm combo hit on the TE37SL was roughly 17".

I was looking over the CAD files for the brakes and the coordinates where it makes contact would need a spacer + T-disk to clear. There is no way around it. In the link I posted in your thread, Robert mentioned a 10mm + T-Disk to clear the 380mm brakes.

If you want to avoid spacers, then look for a 19" reverse lip with a front mounted face (like the vs-xx).

RudysSC

Brakes too big = good problem to have!

Looking forward to seeing those orden's w/the step lip (begins to shiver and drool).

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

It's an expensive problem to have when it comes to wheels.

These came in today.


Had to make sure they all said Sumitomo. The last set I bought that were re-manufactured didn't have any of the oem markings.

I have rebuild parts coming in tomorrow, but I need to decide on the color 1st before I can do the rebuild. Anyone have a suggestion for a nice shade of yellow high temp paint or epoxy?

I'm going to start stripping the paint and splitting the calipers tomorrow night.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Something always breaks whenever I touch this car.

My speakers stopped working last week when I hit a hard bump on the highway. I figured it was because of me yanking on all the wiring to pull out the power and air lines for the air suspension. I took the trunk apart to reattach the remote wire for my speaker amp to find out that all the wiring was still attached and the amp no longer works. This is the 2nd speaker amp to go bad in the last 7 years. I'm guessing the amps are going bad because of my suspension setup. The panel the amps mount on also broke away from the brackets that attach it to the car. Surprisingly, the sub amp has held up fine for the last 13 years (I had it in my accord too). To help fix this, I'm going to try and mount the new amps behind the driver seat, but below the rear seats in the secret compartment. My plan is to install riv nuts into the body of the car and use rubber isolating mounts between the body and the amps.

It might be time to rethink the suspension setup and part ways with the HKS coils. I'm leaning towards KW v3, but someone I met recently threw the idea of trying Aragosta into the mix. They're a bit pricier than the KW, but he claims they're a lot better even though no one talks about them. After doing some research, they use parts from AST/Moton suspension and assemble the coilovers in Japan. I really want to try them, but this is something that I'll be stuck with forever or I'm going to lose more than 50% of it's value when I try to sell.

Back to the brakes:
I spoke with the company in the UK about caliper paint, and it's illegal for them to ship their products internationally, so that route is a dead end. I also spoke to a few of my friends that own import/export businesses and they said only licensed companies are allowed to import chemicals from overseas, so asking someone in the UK to ship it to me as a consumer isn't likely either.

Now that I can't get the epoxy, I'm going to try spray paint. The annoying part about using spray paint is that the faces have to be sanded smooth for it to look nice. Epoxy is self leveling, so it fills in all the casting marks and leaves a smooth finish.

I found some sample pictures on Rennlist for a good match to Porsche yellow brake calipers. The combo they use is: VHT SP100 flameproof primer ->VHT SP738 yellow caliper paint -> VHT SP730 high gloss caliper clear. This combination should be good up to 900 degrees F if prepped correctly.

For anyone that is interested, the paint code for Ferrari yellow is: PPG 84028, Giallo Modena. This setup won't be as high temp if you have a body shop paint them, but it'll look nice.

I started stripping the paint:


This is how the calipers look after 2 rounds of stripping and a quick run with a wire wheel on the fronts. The original powder coat is a ***** to take off. It starts smearing and melting into the cracks. The calipers are now clean enough for the primer to adhere properly.


The rest of these pics are for the person that asked me for more info about rebuilding the calipers (from the last time I did this). This is how I setup the clamps while applying air pressure to pop them out.



The front pistons (left side) has some rust marks and has to be cleaned. Ideally your pistons should look like the rear ones (right side)


The bolts near the bleeder valve has a bit of corrosion. The torque spec for these bolts is 23 ft lbs according to Curt at Elmhurst.


How the calipers look once split


The two internal o-rings pop right out. These seals are only included in the Centric rebuild kit. The OEM Toyota rebuild kit doesn't include this seal.


The square cut seals for the pistons pop right out.


Everything is pretty straight forward for the rebuild. Use lots of brake cleaner to make sure everything is clean before reassembling and coat all the rubber seals with rubber grease. Also wear gloves, a mask, and eye protection. Last thing you'll want is to get blasted with brake fluid in your eyes and mouth.

The rest of the info can be found in these post:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...l#post10060222

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...l#post10060740

Zerodrag

iTrader: (5)

I looked into caliper paint awhile back and came across one by G2 (thick and applied via a brush) that was supposed to be pretty good. Maybe you can look into that if you haven't already, as they have a lot of colors available.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

The lime green calipers on my car was done with G2 caliper paint.

I like the product, but I would never use their application method again. The brush that comes with it sucks. The bristles come off and stick to the epoxy. The paint also tends to run while applying. I would recommend buying a better paint brush and trimming down the bristles so they're shorter and stiffer or buying a Preval compressed sprayer to apply the paint. If you look in the background of the first 2 pictures in my last post you can see a G2 lime green caliper kit and preval sprayer box.

I haven't seen the G2 yellow paint in person yet, so I didn't want to risk trying it and not liking it. I can't imagine it is going to be easy to remove the G2 paint once the hardener is mixed in.

Zerodrag

iTrader: (5)

I watched a few youtube vids on people applying the G2 and the first thing they said was ditch the brush that came with it. I think that stuff is pretty durable though compared to most normal caliper paints.

shajbot

iTrader: (3)

Take a look at high temp vinyl caliper wraps too from Avery.

Also I think the new F90 M5 calipers GOLD look sick af personally.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I need to figure out the top hat situation with the KW coils. The OEM SC top hats won't work in the front. I've asked a few supra owners I know if they still have theirs, but with this weekend being Chinese New Year everyone told me to wait until next week for a response.

KW North America has 2 sets of JZA80 V3's left in stock. If these sell out, then I have to wait for the next shipment from Germany.

I wasn't aware that Avery made a high temp caliper vinyl. I knew 3m and vivid offered it, but not avery.

I believe the color on the m5 calipers is anodized, so it's hard to replicate.

P.S. I'm really starting to regret not being able to head down to SD to pick up your old supra suspension right now.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I got sick of sanding down these calipers to even out the casting marks and decided I would look into paying someone to powder coat the calipers. I stopped by a shop earlier today to look at color samples and called a couple of others. I didn't realize how much powdercoating cost. I was expecting it to be $200 for all 4 calipers, but the best price I got was $75 per front and $65 per rear for a single stage powder. A 2 stage powder cost 50% more, so about $450 to do all 4 calipers. I know this shop does good work because they powdercoated all the accessories in my friend's engine bay and ceramic coated his full race manifold and exhaust.



Left to right
- Sunburst - single stage
- Gecko Green - single stage (this is almost identical to my current calipers)
- Lollipop Lime - 2 stage (but I was warned the calipers would be darker since the sample was done over aluminum).

Refinishing the brakes and the HRE is costing way more than I had anticipated, but the detail work is always the most expensive.