SERIALN9NE

Thanks! We felt there was no professional level options out there and SO many confusing choices, we tried to make it VERY simple and include everything needed for an OEM quality conversion. We have numerous units in Supras, IS's we're doing a JZX100 and 110 pretty soon here so we felt it was essentially a replacement for the R box in that sense. Currently no plans to SFI certify it, but we take all precautions to ensure a high quality product (99.5% of the kit is made in CANADA/USA). that may happen in the future.

Currently no plans for a different clutch setup, we wanted to provide simplicity and transparency to our customers. YOU can choose which clutch to run based on YOUR needs, we're not limiting you to OUR clutch whether re-branded or not. The single is a great option for MOST street users with capacities up to 580tq. sprung for great drivability. For high powered cars we wanted the most available choices for the end user and the 7.25" provided that. I DO however agree that a larger clutch would provide a longer street life and perhaps better characteristics. with that said, I daily drive the triple (720lb/ft capacity) over 400km a week since April. We feel that once you're over 550wtq you should be prepared to have some sacrifices regarding components related to handling that amount of torque just like the rest of your car. Being realistic is a big part of building a car, EVERYONE wants 800 hp but with 800 hp comes a bunch of things that perhaps aren't quite worth the sacrifices you've gained bumping up from 600hp. I think some of these dudes should just be using W58's!! theyre great transmissions and DEAD easy to install lol.

Anyways, I'm sure all of this is not allowed so, yeah. A photo of our SEMA display?


G.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

Hows that bellhousing size? I was one of the original ones who did the swap with the standard CD009 bellhousing, and it was just a terrible fit into our tunnels. This bellhousing looks large still. My biggest issue has always been transmission removal/insall with the motor still in the car. Even on the current A340 bellhousing kits, I still need to tilt the engine a bit to get it in/out. I wonder how this would install/remove, any information on that?

estomax

iTrader: (2)

That is a cool adapter, i hadn't seen it either. At the end of the day though the only thing that bothers me about the swap (and i admit i was one of the early adapters so i shaved my bellhousing and have an adapter plate and all that jazz) is the rattle noise. if you can solve that with 1jz/2jz engines and this transmission then i would find it a lot more agreeable. i am sure people with w58's and v160's dont have to listen to a broken diesel clatter when the window is down at a drive through. Just adding a goal to your to do list with taking this further.

cheers
Marko

PS, i refuse to subscribe to the apple ecosystem though.

SERIALN9NE

I can 10000% guarantee V160's sound the same. I had one with an HKS twin on it. Same ****. It is simply a function of large gears and their backlash no longer being absorbed properly by a 40lb flywheel. It is the precise reason V160/CD009/J160 and Subarus's etc (any modern performance manual transmission) transmissions have dual mass flywheels, to absorb this EXACT noise and rattle.

https://www.exedyusa.com/wp-content/...-Guide-web.pdf EXEDY themsleves TELL you to expect this when running ANY of their light weight systems. (scroll down to page 37)

This is also the reason for our Single plate version. the total clutch/flywheel assembly weighs around 30-33lbs (depending on clutch chosen) to HELP with this annoying rattle yet still provide sportiness through decreased inertia. The Multi system weighs 20-21lbs (depending on clutch) There is a discernable difference between a 30lb assembly and a 20lb assembly. But a race car is a race car and a street car is a street car. .

G.

SERIALN9NE

Its actually slightly smaller than OEM Toyota. Easier to remove than W58 out of the car. The starter bulge was decreased by 50%, this was a key factor in the design of this system. Our sponsored driver @mikeprez used to have to remove his complete engine trans assembly to do anything on his trans, now its 1.5 hours to pull, repair and reinstall from running to running again. It was previously said that the CD could not physically fit into an IS300 and yet ours is in there like stock with no cutting of the tunnel, (except enlarging the shifter hole) only changing the shape at the top and it only hangs below the rails by 5mm and the shifter is 100% oem location. One thing notable is the kit actually moves the transmission FORWARD rather than BACKWARD. for example compared to maverick adaptor our transmission sits 1" further forward. This helps fitting IMMENSELY. (the input shaft is shortened by 3/8")

This is in my Aristo, completely flush with the floor and only reshaped not cut.

G.

estomax

iTrader: (2)

i guess what i challenge you to (since you seem to be able to come up with some nifty solutions) is to get a dual mass flywheel made to cure the rattle or adapt the 2jz dual mass flywheel somehow The stock 350z dual mass is 31 lbs from a quick google and not all of us want a race car. i still rock the stock sc400 exhaust with my 1jz.. i guess i'm getting old lol.

Marko

Halon

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the info. I think your kit is very cool, I like what you've had to say about it. Personally the one remaining drawback for me is still the 7.25" multidisc offerings (did you say your triple is only rated at 720lbf? ). Otherwise the rest of it sounds very promising. Very interested to start hearing and seeing some real world feedback.

SERIALN9NE

I dont think we'll be doing that anytime soon unfortunately, the flywheels are completely proprietary and even on a stock 350 Z once you put a light flywheel on it it rattles. Also NOBODY runs the stock flywheels, they tend to fall part and are extremely expensive to replace. . You are correct the FLYWHEEL is 31lbs, add to that the clutch cover (pressure plate) and it ends up around 40-45 lbs.


My personal clutch is rated to 720lb/ft. Tilton has metallic offerings well above that with just a different spring, I use the softest spring (BUFF) for daily driveability and I'll likely top out at 600lb/ft of torque. This pedal is about as soft as stock, but you could get an ultra high ratio Triple Grey spring in there and it holds 1365 lb/ft! I wouldn't want to drive that though. These clutches are all under $1200 (the flywheel is included in the kit)

The 7.25" configuration is used to allow the use of the carbon clutch as well. This would be the solution for anyone serious about driveability, reliability, and holding power. The SAME quad carbon that most high powered Supra guys run is a complete bolt onto the CD-PRO with simply a release bearing sleeve change. This clutch STARTS at 1640lb/ft but comes in at a lofty $6250 haha.

G.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

For comparison I currently run a single disc from SB rated at 715tq. After the break in period it is very drivable and slippable. I am pushing the limit tho so I recently purchased an 8.5" twin disc setup rated at over 1000tq. My perception (which i admit could be wrong) is generally the smaller multidisc clutches are less street friendly. But perhaps I'm wrong in your case, but it's still my initial reaction none the less. So I look forward to hearing some real world feedback, hopefully proving my impression wrong.

BlueJ

Hope I'm not thread jacking but just a question for Mr. SerialN9ne,
-So every manual transmission running a lighter fly wheel from factory will experience the rattle? Despite the use the correct transmission fluid?

SERIALN9NE

The purpose of the OEM heavy or dual mass flywheel is to help provide a smooth easy to driving experience for the largest possible audience. Vibration and NVH is unwanted so they design accordingly.
When you install a lighter then stock flywheel you throw all of this criteria out the window in favor of quicker revs and acceleration. The severity of the difference from stock will depend on the original transmission and how much lighter your new assembly is.

The rattle or noise you hear is simply backlash between the gears and thrust surfaces in the transmission no longer being cancelled out by a heavy (enough) flywheel/clutch assembly. The fluid has very little impact on this phenomenon. Adding thicker fluid may help this particular “problem” but cause a new problem by way of poor shifting performance or less protection than stock (all dependent upon application)

I’ll tell you what, under certain circumstances my transmission is completely silent. Usually stopped on a slight upward incline and just getting warm. It is the SAME intersection every single day I get to sit st the light in peace. 😊

G.

BlueJ

Got it, so under no circumstance go for a light weight flywheel if trying to avoid the noise, and at the beginning of this thread, LoveSC's said that he'd be going with a "NSK1000-SS-TZ with silent disc" and according to concept Z performance that shroud eliminate some of the rattle noise, but could this be used with a Nissan trans and Toyota motor combo? Be it a jz or 1uz?

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

How does one get speed signal to speedometer with this setup

estomax

iTrader: (2)

serial9, i noticed the same thing when sitting at uphill intersections, the rattle noise is much lower (or not at all) in those cases.

bluej, i suspect a different clutch disc could also affect the rattle noise. i have about 20-25k miles on my setup so far over the last 3 years, if i ever feel like taking the trans out again i will definately try a different clutch.

lex, the speedo signal would come from a GPS adapter or a signal adapter hacked into an ABS wheel sensor. i have the GPS adapter on my car, works well, takes a minute to find the satellites and drops to 0 speed in tunnels though

Marko

BlueJ

People using this Nissan Trans would probably have to go with a gps type speed that hooks up to the cluster.