Halon

iTrader: (6)

I don't think it's a "problem" you "fix". I think it's the nature of these transmissions. A heavy dual mass flywheel or something along those lines is what I believe will quiet it down, but I don't know of any options like that for this swap. Even the 350z guys note an increase in noise when switching to aftermarket flywheels.

estomax

iTrader: (2)

it does make the car sound broken at stop lights, luckily it goes away over ~2k rpm so during driving it is not there. i have one of the first kits from back in 2013 that have a slightly thinner flywheel because i had to mill my bellhousing 5/8 inch also. i guess the new kits still do it also then.. Halon i know you redid your setup, did the noise change at all? did your flywheel get heavier? some people here report a totally stock sounding car so i am confused at what the differences are (LoveSCs for example)

Mandrake

I think the issue is caused by vibrations from the engine, not the transmission. The dual mass fly wheels are supposed to restore some balance. I suppose you could try having your crank and pistons balanced and see if that helps. I know some 4 cylinder motors even with balance shafts have to use dual mass flywheels. An example is the VW FSI engine. I6 engines should inherently be more balanced though and I don't think the 1JZ or 2JZ have balance shafts so something as simple as balancing the internals could "fix" it.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

Mine has always made a bit of noise in neutral with my foot off the clutch pedal. A whirring sound with maybe a little rattle kinda sound. The issue seems exaggerated to me, I don't find it to be a big deal.

estomax

iTrader: (2)

i think it is different in different cars and setups and variance in engine/transmission combos. if your noise is light it is probably acceptable. i can record mine again next time with the window down and throw it on youtube, it is not something i can write off as normal. i actually even got the superdampr front pulley on my 1jz, was hoping to make things even smoother. the noise goes away if i idle the engine at like 400 rpm i know that much

Mandrake

You got a what?

estomax

iTrader: (2)

ati superdamper. i read the stock pulleys tend to fall apart so when i got my motor i went all out with the front end parts haha.

http://realstreetperformance.com/Pro...ra-Toyota.html

anyway, here is a current video of the rattle i grabbed in the garage. i have ~2.5 quarts redline mt90 and 1 quart redline 75w140 oil in the trans.

cheers
Marko

AlexLeger

First off, nice wet paint job lol. Second, mine has the exact same characteristics as this. Sounds almost like rod knock, but disappears when the clutch pedal is pushed in.. I’ve noticed that the noise gets louder the more I drive it. It’s almost non existent from a cold start.. which leads me to believe that when the gear oil in the trans gets hot, it thins out, thus making it louder. It’s weird.. I know a few more people with this exact same issue & then there are some people who don’t have noise at all..

Halon

iTrader: (6)

Mine makes that similar sound. It's hard to tell from a video, but I'd say mine isn't quite that loud. What clutch are you on estomax?

I've ran 75-85, and 75-90, both Redline and Amsoil, I've never really noticed the fluid changing the sound.

Yes I guess you can say the noise is caused by the engine. That's the whole purpose of the OEM's using these heavy dual mass flywheels. The output of an engine is not a perfect continuous motion because each piston is hitting at a different time. Those flywheels help dampen that to deliver the transmission a 'smoother' input. Here we are running lighter solid flywheels that really are designed around performance more so than dampening pulses from the engine at idle. These transmissions are known to be noisy in this situation. Even the 350z guys report similar sounds when they go to an aftermarket flywheel.

The lighter the flywheel/clutch assembly, the louder it'd get I'd imagine.

I don't really see how an ATI dampener would do anything more about this particular sound than the OEM dampener would.

estomax

iTrader: (2)

i have whatever clutch came with the collins kit, it is a sprung 6 puck clutch, by the part number on the box it's this thing:
https://gripforce.com/product/fx-sta...rbo-3sgte.html

ati damper is mostly for harmonics, i doubt the rattle thats audible would be affected by it, i agree. and you are right on the lighter flyhweel/clutch being louder, a guy locally put a twin disc on his with a very thin flywheel and it was setting off his knock sensor from the rattle.

it is definately annoying enough that if i am in the drive through i keep the clutch down because it is embarassing and makes it hard to hear when it is echoing off the wall next to you. also the noise definately gets worse as things warm up and the transmission fluid becomes more viscous like alex said.

Marko

SERIALN9NE

The transmission noise is normal. Any transmission that came standard with a heavy dual mass flywheel will rattle when changed to a normal type flywheel/clutch. The lighter the setup, the louder the transmission at idle. This is simply the gears rattling together under zero load condition. Nothing to worry about. V160/R154/J160/all CD/JK’s do it. Yes it sounds broken, yes it’s annoying but it is a sacrifice you will have to make in order run this trans. I wouldn’t recommend changing the fluid. You will find it works (shifts) “better” for a while then will become worse than when you started (depending on what you use). I highly recommend OEM NISSAN fluid with these trannies. It is incredibly consistent and works under 80% of all situations. By all means for a dedicated race/drift car perhaps there is something better, but I’ve used a few different fluids and I drive my car every day from dead cold to drifting hot. And nothing has worked as well as the Nissan fluid. It shifts well when cold/ warm and hot. Unlike the others that shift well when cold/hot but poorly when warm (75% of your driving because it actually takes a LOT to get these trannies hot). I have over 7 months daily driving this one particular transmission with the same fluid. Why reinvent the wheel?

Also. You guys screwing around with adaptor plates and home brewed shifters, etc. i hope it’s worth it, yes it is “cheaper” but realistically what is your time worth? There is a reason certain things cost money, usually because companies spent a bunch of time R&D’ing it so YOU don’t have to.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

^^ I was with you 100% until that last paragraph. Agree with everything, and yes Nissan fluid or even the Redline MT-85 I feel is a great choice as well as an OEM weight replacement.

But regarding your last paragraph, how does this conversation even exist without adapter plates? And I can't think of anything that embodies the spirit of hot-rodding more than DIY tinkering in your garage. Nobody is casting their own pistons here like Burt Munro, you're talking about pretty basic DIY shifter assemblies. I'm sure there are plenty of advantages to your R&D and well thought out shifters, but there will always be a place for the DIYer in this hobby.

SERIALN9NE

https://www.serialnine.com/cd-pro Just saying there are legitimate options out there for JZ guys, its not 2010 anymore where its acceptable to have adapter plates with holes that don't line up etc. and shifters that you have to "mod" to get to work correctly. To each their own though, it all just reminds me of megasquirt and android phones, good on paper but lackluster IRL.

I've been there myself cutting and hacking away at your car/bellhousing/adaptor plate etc shimming this and modding that because either you're the guinea pig for some company with limited experience, the proper solution doesn't exist, or you're "adventurous" or "economical". At the end of the day, time is money and i'd rather be spending it with my son or actually driving the car vs, reinventing the wheel.

Sometimes its nice to just buy something that actually works, regardless of the price.

G.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

I will be completely honest and say I had never heard of that (your) kit before. I didn't even realize there was a "non-adapter plate" option out there. Thanks for sharing that.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

Your adapter housing is really interesting. I like that it uses the tilton slave and the bulkhead line connectors. I like how the shape of the bellhousing matches the shape of the transmission better than the other current options. Overall seems much more refined. I have to give credit to the folks who pioneered this whole swap in the beginning, and have to give credit to the folks who have come in and really started to refine this swap. I said it before that the CD009 swap is a viable option, but it still needed maturing. This is one heck of an example of that refinement/maturing I feel.

Couple comments / questions. Are there plans to have it SFI certified? Also the clutch, do you have any plans to go to a little bit larger clutch option (i.e. 8.5" vs. 7.25")?