Flyboyzack

Hi, so I'd like to introduce myself. I'm definitely not new to the Supra game, but just purchased an EXTREMELY clean, one-owner SC300 with only 74k miles! My goal is to do a high horsepower build that is still daily drivable (I plan on DD this car!)

So in the beginning I'll just be running the distributor, but I anticipate later I'll be running a GTE type setup (cam/crank sensors and coil-on-plug), or possibly a full GTE swap with an Aristo engine which I have purchased as a backup engine for the Supra. Here are the details of the car:

Engine: 1997 SC300, Auto with 74Kmiles!
1. Stock GE engine and distributor (later run a ARP studs and TT headgasket/ GTE type setup with sensor/coil on plug setup, possibly a full GTE swap but now stock engine).
2. Garrett 6466 .84 A/R journal bearing turbo.
3. HKS type manifold, with 50mm HKS wastegate.
4. 3" FMIC. custom piping welded up by me.
5. 3" Downpipe, the rest of the exhaust is upgraded as well with a high flow cat(s) for emission purposes. Basically 3" all the way back. I later may do a 4" DP/MP.

Transmission/Drivetrain:
1. GTE Aristo A340e Auto.
2. Stall: 3500 to 4000 stall, unknown exactly which one at this time, but in that range.
3. GTE Auto LSD (I think the drive ratio of this differential is 3.76??)
4. 2 row B&M trans cooler

Electronics/Engine Management:
1. ProEFI 128 SELF TUNED BY ME :-)!
2. AEM 5 bar MAP sensor (I may later swap my 3.5 bar MAP sensor in the Supra into this car)
3. MAC boost control solenoid
4. 5 position boost switch (I'll prob just use the AEM switch)
5. 150 PSI fuel press sensor, WHP
6. 150 PSI oil press sensor, WHP
7. Flex fuel: GM contenential flex fuel sensor
8. GM IAT sensor, 2 wire
9. Stock coolant sensor
10. Stock trans temp sensor
12. Bosch UEGO LSU 4.2 wideband O2 sensor (may run a 2nd one later)

Fuel:
1. ID1300 Injectors
2. FIC -8AN fuel rail
3. -8AN fuel lines, -6 return
4. Fuel lab regulator
5. Dual Walboro 450 pumps

Suspension:
To be determined! But the plan is to do the bushings, possibly coilovers or lowering springs/shocks. I can take these out of the Supra. I also may consider using the Supra sway bars.

I think that covers it. Like I said, this will be an NA-T build in the beginning and will probably progress to a GTE engine. I'm probably going to stick to the auto transmission, as I don't want an R154, and the V160 is way too expensive. There are other trans options (CD009/T56 Magnum), but those can be a little tricky as well. Also a daily driver! On to a few pics :-).

Supra:

Flyboyzack

Here is some dirty pics of the car:






Now accumulating some parts:

Maximo018

This is going to be interesting. Where are you? Austin or San Antonio? Just judging by the rock in the background

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Nice! I'm sure you know this is already, but in case not, if you plan on keeping the auto trans you will need to have it built to handle that power and will need a couple coolers for it

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Good Luck on the build !

scsexy

iTrader: (1)

Looks good man, The only thing is don't use a stall torque converter if your planing on daily driving the car. It will be horrible on gas and trying to drive on the street if you need 3500 rpms to get rolling.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Hey bud, I think you have a misunderstanding of how torque converters work. The stall speed is the point at which the TC will "lock up" and begin transferring power through the transmission whether the car is moving or not. So, the car will still idle and creep and drive just fine. It's just for racing so that you can build RPM's at the start line so that you are launching in the vehicle's power band. Whereas with a stock TC that might be rated around 1500 RPM stall speed, that would be the point at which the tires already start spinning and you are no where near boost. Hope that helps

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I bet what scsexy meant was having a high stall converter . Though choosing your stall will depend on your overall setup. How is your low end torque , how heavy is the car , what size of tires do you have and so on. Ideally , you want your stall to lock up near where your engine's peak torque is. You really need to consider your torque output and power curve when choosing your stall speed. Like I have a 3500 stall on Red Mamba One and the Old Man's Tan SCs and they are perfect on the street for the power and torque I am making on each car.

OP .. nice alpine silver MKIV you got there. More and more MKIV owners are building SCs now for their sleeper daily drivers since they are a lot cheaper to start out with.

lilSCsteve

iTrader: (71)

Super clean SC, build is going to be top notch too!

kagoostin

WOW very excited to see everything put in

Flyboyzack

I'm in Austin! Good guess!

Yes, I forgot to mention that. I'm putting one cooler on, should I add two additional coolers? Is that what most guys do?

Well the newer stalls from Induction Performance are supposed to be really good. I'm leaning towards the 3500 or 3600 RPM stall. I was told NOT to go below 3200, but the 4000 stall may be a little bit much for my setup:

So I got my fenders cut. I was starting to scrape the tires as the are really wide in the back. So far, so good.



Wow, this built GTE VVti head is sooooo tempting right now!


I have to get the exhaust downpipe situation under control as I have a lot of piping to deal with here.

GTX580

iTrader: (3)

definitely subscribed.

aswang

iTrader: (4)

Welcome! Looks awesome so far, I have no doubt it will keep getting even better.

1A1

I'd do 2 coolers since you are in TX and have to deal with heat, not to mention the traffic in ATX sucks. I'd do one with a puller fan behind it and one without. Your set up is very close to what I am doing, except I am converting to coil on plug and using the digital cam/crank sensors along with Head-Games cam sensor boss in my GE head. I am using GTE cams with a GE motor. PHR makes a driveshaft you can use for the GTE trans and Supra Auto TT rear end. Should be fun. I look forward to updates from you.

Steve

SupraTurbo

Very nice. Subscribed.