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^^^ I hear you . The less rotating parts put together better... less parts that can get loose specially in high RPMs.
Maverick uses the SPEC twin clutches which doesn't have the best review with MKIV owners. Collins said he has Tilton triple but I hate being a guinea pig for a $6k setup. So am on a wait and see if others have good reviews. It is not like I need the SC to be converted now. I can use it with the built ATF TT so far. Just looking at possibilities of trying the CD009 eventually.
Harborfreight has a portable hydraulic puller for $120 which had been useful for me in pulling / pushing fenders and bend and what not .
^^^ I hear you . The less rotating parts put together better... less parts that can get loose specially in high RPMs.
Maverick uses the SPEC twin clutches which doesn't have the best review with MKIV owners. Collins said he has Tilton triple but I hate being a guinea pig for a $6k setup. So am on a wait and see if others have good reviews. It is not like I need the SC to be converted now. I can use it with the built ATF TT so far. Just looking at possibilities of trying the CD009 eventually.
Harborfreight has a portable hydraulic puller for $120 which had been useful for me in pulling / pushing fenders and bend and what not .
Awesome, thanks. I looked at those at HF, but didn't think I would be able to push/spread with it. I will have to check out some videos of using them when I get home because work blocks youtube, darn it lol
instead of removing the detent springs in the transmission, what I did was cut a little bit off the detent springs on the shifter so it was weaker there (leaving the trans ones alone). if you leave both sets of springs the shifter is super tight. it looks like they are using a 240sx style shifter there but with a different machined base. they would have to have a modified shifter arm to accept the bottom of the 240sx shifter like I did on my version cause its not a bolt on like the 350z, its a socket and ball type one on the 240 shifter. I would personally go for the serial nine one when its available, not a fan of the forward looking angle on this one and does it keep reverse lockout? important things to ask. good luck with the setup!
instead of removing the detent springs in the transmission, what I did was cut a little bit off the detent springs on the shifter so it was weaker there (leaving the trans ones alone). if you leave both sets of springs the shifter is super tight. it looks like they are using a 240sx style shifter there but with a different machined base. they would have to have a modified shifter arm to accept the bottom of the 240sx shifter like I did on my version cause its not a bolt on like the 350z, its a socket and ball type one on the 240 shifter. I would personally go for the serial nine one when its available, not a fan of the forward looking angle on this one and does it keep reverse lockout? important things to ask. good luck with the setup!
You are running a 350z trans? yeah, I asked him what needs to be done to install and he said just to remove those detent pins on the transmission. Then he said that to retain reverse lockout, you had to modify one of the pins and re-install it. I'm guessing that what he is trying to do is add more spring resistance to the one lever that pushes up against the shift rod when attempting to go into reverse. So, its not really "locking it out", just requires increased resistance to get it over. And I was also a bit skeptical about how he is connecting it to the rod. I was thinking the same, that he must require mods to the shifter rod.
I hope someone will do a twin or triple disk and give a full review on the setup most especially the clutch since I need one that will hold at least 800 ft./lbs of torque that is not a pain to drive and of course need it to be reliable and strong. The twin / triple clutch is what I am most worried about . They are not cheap and if its a piece of junk then a lot of money wasted.
Yeah Im going twin disc with the collins kit, I'll do a pretty in depth review of my install and performance. My car is only producing 400hp or so, so i dont necessarily think ill have any issues in that department.
Im a little worried about crank walk, thats the reason i opted for the twin disc.
You are running a 350z trans? yeah, I asked him what needs to be done to install and he said just to remove those detent pins on the transmission. Then he said that to retain reverse lockout, you had to modify one of the pins and re-install it. I'm guessing that what he is trying to do is add more spring resistance to the one lever that pushes up against the shift rod when attempting to go into reverse. So, its not really "locking it out", just requires increased resistance to get it over. And I was also a bit skeptical about how he is connecting it to the rod. I was thinking the same, that he must require mods to the shifter rod.
yeah thats why I think the other one is a better option, I am not running the 350z trans but I have one in my garage I was working on the shifter solution with. I wont run one until there is a "good" shifter solution out there and clutch adapter kit. the couple that were mentioned looked viable and retained reverse lockout, this one looks only marginally better than the one I made at home with a 240sx short shifter to be honest (and what the likely copied).
yeah thats why I think the other one is a better option, I am not running the 350z trans but I have one in my garage I was working on the shifter solution with. I wont run one until there is a "good" shifter solution out there and clutch adapter kit. the couple that were mentioned looked viable and retained reverse lockout, this one looks only marginally better than the one I made at home with a 240sx short shifter to be honest (and what the likely copied).
ahhh OK, gotcha
I'm curious what SerialNine and CBF performance guys are doing about connecting their shifters to the shift rod... Wonder what transmission modifications are required?
How did you connect the 240sx shifter to the shift rod?
the proper way would be to mod things inside the black box which is where one of the other ones connect.
what I did was I removed the brass looking part that comes out the back of the trans that connects to the bottom of the stock shifter (it is held in with a pin) and I removed the ball joint thing on that piece (I cut it out), and then that left me with like a U bracket with 2 holes and I cut off the top part and enlarged the bottom hole, that way the 240 shifter just sits in the bottom hole and you can shift properly then. I can tell they did that cause the bottom of that shifter is the one with the little plastic cone on it (non-remote), versus the stock kind is the one that a bolt goes through (remote style). One could also just make a custom piece for this or who knows there may be a piece from another nissan that might do this already.
you can kind of see it in this video, ignore the allen key it is just temporarily taking the place of the stock detent pin.
only difference on theirs is their shifter rod is bent some to get it to the stock location and they made a fancier plate where I used a $40 ebay 240sx short shifter plate.
the stock location is around 30" and mine is sitting around 32", but I found out you can just use a gated shifter bezel that sits 2" further back and this works presto (I dislike bent shifters).
You can even retain reverse lockout by welding the top of the v160 short shifter (ebay again) to the top of the 240sx shifter.
the reason you cant just put the v160 stuff on the 240sx shifter is that the diameter of the rod is different. if you do the welding then you could retain it.
Looking at the first video, I'm wondering how the shifter actually rotates the shift rod? I would think that it would only present a side load on the rod? Unless the shifter just happens to be perfectly placed in the hole that you drilled, and the taper on the shifter end "cone" just happens to be the right pitch, and sized with your drilled hole perfectly in a way that actually gets the rod to rotate, and actually rotate enough to hit all gears? Crazy..
Am I thinking about this correctly, or am I way off? lol
The way it rotates is that you leave the bottom piece of the brass 350z U joint "thing" that I hacked up in place and not the top one, that way when you move the shifter, it moves the bottom part of the U joint thing and that turns the rod the correct way. If it was on top of the rod the gears would be reversed, which is part of the problem people have when modifying this transmission (will come back to this later). I went through a few different versions and this was the only acceptable shift feel to me that got it short enough leaving the factory shift rod intact and only modifying the part that fits into it. The hole was already drilled so yes I went 1 drill bit at a time till I found one where the plastic piece of the shifter fit into it very snug. this was just a test though I was planning on making a better arm where the plastic thing is secure in there, cause you dont want it popping out on you. you could even use what I made and stack the right size washers underneath and tack weld them on, or you might be able to find the right nissan "Striker arm" is what they are called, or if you have a spare one from a toyota laying around you could always get something welded. for alignment I took care of that with the mounting of the 240sx shifter plate, just make the holes a little bigger and align it when you tighten it down. It was just to see if it could be done but there are better solutions coming out, personally I would still wait and buy the serial nine one, its like a better version of what I did and it looks like it shifts better and retains reverse lockout. all those things are worth the extra coin to me vs a bent shifter.
There is another version that sits above the black box part but its 28" and too far forward for us. So coming back to the part I said earlier, since the shifter has to connect under the shift rod to turn the right way, that poses a problem cause the shift rod extends out the back of the trans, and a shifter cannot magically go though the shift rod, so I think people are cutting/modifying the shift rod on this version, and using a nissan part (from the xterra or other car) and attaching that to the shift rod. This would make the trans unusable for remote shift, but would properly convert it to top shift (you can see the shift rod in the 2nd video there is no place for a shifter to go through it and attach underneath for correct pivot, nissan uses a pivot below the shift rod, most of our toyota trans have the arm on top of the shift rod which makes things much easier for mods).
Then there was the version of this one, where they bent the shifter back 2 inches to get it to our spot @ 30".
I think this version would be alright if the shifter is done properly, but the serial nine one looks more interesting and has a proper bracket like the factory style.
OK, so I think I know what I'm going to do for the shifter. I will be going with a derivative of Ali SC3's shifter. I have a 240sx shifter/housing coming in hopefully Saturday. Plan is to cut that first linkage joint same as Ali did. But, I will bend that bottom part down 90 degrees, and use one of these rod end swivel joints:
Then, I will have to chop the bottom of the shifter and then drill and tap a hole so that I can use a piece of threaded rod to come down through that swivel joint. This will give me a nice tight fit, and will also allow the shifter to pivot inside that joint as the shifter is moved around. I have dual bend shifter for an Integra also coming in. I am hoping to be able to use it to get the shifter back into the stock-ish location without needing to find a gated shifter trim bezel.
For reverse lockout, the plan is to try and get a pin pressed into the side of the shifter, and somehow fix a spring plunger type component in that will require you to forcefully push over to reverse.
Either that, or the v160 shifter mod that Ali also mentioned
Was able to open it up quite a bit. Unfortunately, I already mounted the clutch, so I can't test fit again to see how it is going to set when installed. But it was only catching a little bit before, so should hopefully be fine now
I don't think my 240sx short shifter will be in until Monday, so I guess this weekend I will be mounting the clutch pedal and master cylinder
03-08-16, 07:29 AM
