LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

cool man, thanks! I just friended/messaged him

SCSkidder

Man, I really appreciate this thread. I will be doing this swap in my SC300 in the next 2 weeks once my collins parts get here. I chose to go with the twin disc setup offered by collins.

I will ad that for anyone doing the same 1/2j - CD009 with the twin disc, the stock Auto flex plate spacer is required.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

No problem man My goal for the thread was to have concise and sequential information and steps that one would have to do to get this done. Hopefully it turns out that way. I have had to take my time because I've been busy, and really only get meaningful time to work on it during the weekends. Then trying to think it all through, and wait for parts to come in when I need them. Hopefully once this is done, all of the info will be here so that the next person can order everything all upfront and get it done in a weekend

SCSkidder

Yeah, I did a few threads like this on air ride stuff a while back when thats all I did. Very very time consuming and its easy to miss something and not want to back track, so i commend you.

I didnt do any research so the info is probably out there already, but ill ask regardless... Do you know what hydro line the swap will require for the nissan clutch slave? Thats probably the only thing i haven't really researched as of yet.

Im also on the horn with CBF performance about a forward mounted shifter for the CD009.. what did you pay for yours if you already have it?

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Thanks and yeah it does take a lot of time, but it also slows the pace of everything down, which is good because it gives you time to think things through and get feedback and ideas from members that are following what you're doing.

For clutch line, Halon said that he used a 240sx line. I will be doing something different because I can't get my hands on the hard line that connects into the master cylinder. It is discontinued and I can't find it anywhere. At this time, I am thinking of getting a standard line hardline at local auto parts store. Those are 3/16" line with 3/8-24 fittings. The clutch master cylinder has a M10x1.00 port on it, so I will need an adapter to mate it to the fitting on the hard line. Then, I will need to bend the hardline and get it down to where I want it to be, then get a stainless braided line with a 3/8-24 fitting on one end and a banjo (I think 10mm) to connect to slave cylinder.

I have not yet ordered my relocated shifter. But I did come up with a dimension of about 29-7/8" from cd009 bellhousing face should just about center it into the bezel trim. Reason I haven't ordered it yet is because I don't want the shifter to be really tall. CBF said that the base of the shifter sits about 4" up from the inspection plate on the trans. Then, he has an 8.5" shifter and 7" shifter. So that puts the shifter ball at at least 11" tall from the trans inspection plate. When I measure that, it just looks terribly long to me. I was hoping to have it no more than 8" from the plate. But when I told CBF that, he said that could make for some interesting shifting. I'm guessing that he's saying that it could be hard to find gears and or shift because you don't have much leverage and movement between gears. So, I have contacted Brett Fenning, whom NOLAGG recommended, and he seems to have a pretty nice solution. It is a swan neck design, and sits perfect and at nice height in the trim. I have to talk to him more about it tomorrow because he was busy with family today.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

I updated post 3. Got the flywheel and clutch mounted today.

I can also see that there is absolutely no way to mount this trans straight in with the pressure plate and flywheel on there. The engine will definitely need to be tilted, or removed to mate this trans

So, now I just have to wait to figure out what shifter I am going to go with, get it in, mount it and cut the tunnel for the shifter. Mate the trans to the motor, install trans crossmember, install driveshaft and adapter to diff. Then install clutch pedal and lines. Wow, still have some work to do..

NOLAGG

Shoot some pics, maybe I can give you a suggestion on easiest way to get it mated.also I upgraded the pivot ball to the concept z performance chromoley one,oem throw out bearing, pilot bushing(unless the Collins came with it pressed in the adaptor already), clutch fork, ands t.o.b retainer.
Make sure to use the RED thread locker on the adaptor plate bolts along with some good lock washers since all the bolts aren't used.if you want some advice,I used"(NORD LOCK WASHERS)"one of the best inventions to secure ANY bolt & nut and bolt hardware assembly out there.just check this out https://youtu.be/cDlmbMV9ICU
I also use these on my turbo& any where else that hardware usually backs out.guess what, never had the problem again.Anyways I don't mean to tell you what to do or deny your know how, I'm just giving you advice based on my experience and know how.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Awesome, that's good advice, thanks!!

I planned on getting the whole kit from concept z that included the pivot ball, tob sleeve, fork, dustboot and fork to sleeve clip. But, Collins provided an extended tob sleeve (I guess you can't use the OEM sleeve because it's too short?). The tob sleeve had a bearing pressed on already. The fork on my trans is already the upgraded cast type, and the pivot ball looks like it's in good condition, no wear at all. So I decided to just use what I have. But I do agree, it probably is worth the $150 for peace of mind to not have to pull the trans to fix any of this stuff if it wears out.

I will get some pics maybe tomorrow, thanks! I just did a little more test fitting before mounting the clutch today, and I am having a hard time shoving the trans up into the tunnel. I think that when I have it mated, I should be able to pull it up while tightening down the cross member bolts. I'm too afraid to get in there and bang anymore than I already have because the car is on jack stands, and I hate being underneath it banging. I tried to lift the trans lined up so that the bell housing is basically right on the adapter, so that the bellhousing is coming in where there is the most room in the firewall. It was hard to get it in coming in from that position. Now that the clutch is mounted and I have to come up into the tunnel 3-4" back more, there is just absolutely no way in hell that I'm going to have the space to do it. The motor has to be at least tilted back. I hope that's all that needs to be done because otherwise I have to drain fluids, disconnect things and lift the motor out. And in that case, I might as well pull it out completely, and clean up the bay and drop the oil pan and put the proper FIPG in to seal it up properly. We will see though. I really don't want to have to pull the motor, and was hoping to be able to show everyone how to do it without pulling the motor.

Thanks again!

Keith

SCSkidder

I cant imagine that the CBF kit is much taller overall than the stock setup. I talked to him today, he doesnt have any on hand to send out at the moment anyway, so ill be keeping my ears and eyes open for other alternatives, but so far i like his forward mount setup.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

yeah, it's going to pretty much be a custom make. SerialNine also makes a shifter. Check them out. They use a sort of collet adapter with a few different holes that you can easily swap between shifter positions by just adjusting a few screws.

I will see if I can get some feedback from forum members to see what stock height is of the shifter. But just using a measuring tape the other day, 11" seemed really tall. The thing is, there is that initial 4" taken up by the base of the shifter in order to accommodate the reverse lockout mechanism. If you didn't want to retain that, then you could save 4".

I will be talking more with Brett Fenning today about his shifter. The little bit that I talked with him yesterday seems that this might the way that I will go. I just have to confirm a few more things. This is a salesheet that he sent me:

SCSkidder

That looks good and is priced nicely. I would like to know more as well. how does it connect to the shifter rod?

SCSkidder

I did see the serial nine setup. They are 350 bucks and not available for purchase yet.

Here's a message from a guy in my area who did the swap and has been drifting with his setup for some time


On the trans tunnel I had to take a air hammer to the part of the tunnel where the widest part of the trans case sits.not very much though. And also where the bell housing sits. I beat it in a lot there to where it would make it even possible to get the input shaft lined up with the clutch disk. Then I had to meat it in even more to get to the bell housing bolts. I still have to use a jack to push up the front of my engine to tilt the back down so I can get the trans out. It's pretty easy to pull the trans out now minus the shifter. That's always a *****

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for that info!! So, it sounds like he did the swap with the engine still in the bay? That's good to know that it can be done. I have tried the air hammer, but I don't think my compressor is strong enough. It barely chipped the damn paint off My bellhousing area is all set to go, because after some beating (not a whole lot) I have more than enough room to set the bolts into the Collins adapter. I need to beat some of the tunnel part as your buddy says. But, I hate doing it under a car on jackstands. I am wondering if the tunnel will pull in a bit when I torque down the trans crossmember bolts? I just don't want to put stress on the bellhousing bolts while doing it because the motor will be mounted, and the assembly will want to deflect there.


Regarding the above shifter, I am not sure how it connects to the shifter rod. He did not say. I asked him for install documentation, but he didn't provide that bit yet. He did give me this though:






This doesn't make sense though because I opened up the inspection plate and the sole purpose of those detent pins is to return the shifter back to neutral position when taking it out of gear. There is one acting on each side of a lever to push it back into neutral. He said that he has springs in the shifter to do that, but I don't know why he shows to modify one to give reverse lockout. Makes no sense because they have nothing to do with reverse lockout. He says its got something to do with his design, but I don't know. I am thinking of fabbing something up myself.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Good progress buddy ...watching this thread closely. Maybe one day , I will do this in one of my SCs if it is all worth it . BTW , get a hydraulic puller so you can easily push the tunnel sides outward.

I hope someone will do a twin or triple disk and give a full review on the setup most especially the clutch since I need one that will hold at least 800 ft./lbs of torque that is not a pain to drive and of course need it to be reliable and strong. The twin / triple clutch is what I am most worried about . They are not cheap and if its a piece of junk then a lot of money wasted.

LoveSCs

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Gerry. Yeah, I have been trying to find a hydraulic tool that could do that for me, but haven't been able to find anything. Maybe I will try again with a different air hammer bit.

And yeah, I hear you about the twin and triple plate setups. Sounds like SCSkidder is going with the twin disc setup. Hopefully he can give us an in depth review of it But, he went with the Collins twin kit, which needs the auto flex plate and adapter. Whereas the maverick kit does not require the use of that