CD009 350Z 6spd On 1JZ SC400
nothing against the cd009....but why not just buy a transmission that is made to be mated up to jz motor.....be alot easier and in long run probably spend a similar about of $$$
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 47
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I'm at $1400 for my whole swap. That is clutch,trans, everything. A r154 would cost 1400 alone.
I would like to think that someday I will be in the 600hp range, that's why I did it. Otherwise yes, R154 is a ton easier. As long as you don't plan on being near any levels that could harm it. If you break one, then you're looking at a $2k replacement rather than a $600-$800 replacement
If you want a manual trans, and you want to make power, in the past your options were more or less a Marlin Crawler built R154 (5spd), or a V160 (6spd). R154 mates up nice sure, but they have their drawbacks. They are slowly climbing in price. They aren't always extremely easy to find locally, and you are often forced to just wait and see what comes up for sale online. Add in the cost of getting it built with the Marlin Crawler bits and the correct shifter arrangement, and you end up with a trans that can handle some power, but still is a bit of a ticking time bomb for anyone making a bit of torque or launching it. Add in the fact that it will likely have the common leak issue, and notchy shifting, just doesn't make it a solid option for some of us. The V160 option, I don't think I need to explain how expensive that is becoming, especially now that they've been discontinued.
The CD009 swap in my opinion is a great concept, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't think it was still a little bit in the maturing phase. These transmissions are a dime a dozen used, there's probably couple for $500-$700 at your local junk yard right now, or under $2000 for a brand spanking new one. So should you manage to blow one up, replacements are easy to find quickly and very affordable, and don't require additional cost/time to get 'built'. They seem to be able to handle a good amount of torque in stock form. As much as a V160, maybe yes maybe no, I'd say it's debatable at this point and not proven over and over to consistently hold tons of torque like the V160 has. But even holding 'almost' or 'not quite as as much' as a V160 is still pretty stout in my book and a great pitch to those of us in the 500-800 flywheel torque range. The gearing is excellent for our cars, almost identical to the V160. They shift excellent.
But there are drawbacks of course. The shifter location has been an on going concern, but we're slowly starting to see solutions arise as this swap starts to mature with the SerialNine and Fenning shifters available to purchase, and this other potential DIY option we're working on here. The physical size has been a concern, but once again as this swap is maturing we're seeing solutions from Collins and others to address that with the new bellhousing swap versions. Lack of a speed sensor, but there are solutions for that now. These things take time, but we're seeing these issues start to get ironed out.
I still think there is a bit of maturing that is happening with this swap, and I think it may nearly be there. And I think it's important for us to continue to support it so that it does reach a fully matured state. Once it's matured, and there's proven solutions for all of the little 'nuances', perhaps in the future it will be as normal as a TH400 swap is today.
Same could be said to anyone whose mated a 2spd or 3spd auto then...?
If you want a manual trans, and you want to make power, in the past your options were more or less a Marlin Crawler built R154 (5spd), or a V160 (6spd). R154 mates up nice sure, but they have their drawbacks. They are slowly climbing in price. They aren't always extremely easy to find locally, and you are often forced to just wait and see what comes up for sale online. Add in the cost of getting it built with the Marlin Crawler bits and the correct shifter arrangement, and you end up with a trans that can handle some power, but still is a bit of a ticking time bomb for anyone making a bit of torque or launching it. Add in the fact that it will likely have the common leak issue, and notchy shifting, just doesn't make it a solid option for some of us. The V160 option, I don't think I need to explain how expensive that is becoming, especially now that they've been discontinued.
The CD009 swap in my opinion is a great concept, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't think it was still a little bit in the maturing phase. These transmissions are a dime a dozen used, there's probably couple for $500-$700 at your local junk yard right now, or under $2000 for a brand spanking new one. So should you manage to blow one up, replacements are easy to find quickly and very affordable, and don't require additional cost/time to get 'built'. They seem to be able to handle a good amount of torque in stock form. As much as a V160, maybe yes maybe no, I'd say it's debatable at this point and not proven over and over to consistently hold tons of torque like the V160 has. But even holding 'almost' or 'not quite as as much' as a V160 is still pretty stout in my book and a great pitch to those of us in the 500-800 flywheel torque range. The gearing is excellent for our cars, almost identical to the V160. They shift excellent.
But there are drawbacks of course. The shifter location has been an on going concern, but we're slowly starting to see solutions arise as this swap starts to mature with the SerialNine and Fenning shifters available to purchase, and this other potential DIY option we're working on here. The physical size has been a concern, but once again as this swap is maturing we're seeing solutions from Collins and others to address that with the new bellhousing swap versions. Lack of a speed sensor, but there are solutions for that now. These things take time, but we're seeing these issues start to get ironed out.
I still think there is a bit of maturing that is happening with this swap, and I think it may nearly be there. And I think it's important for us to continue to support it so that it does reach a fully matured state. Once it's matured, and there's proven solutions for all of the little 'nuances', perhaps in the future it will be as normal as a TH400 swap is today.
If you want a manual trans, and you want to make power, in the past your options were more or less a Marlin Crawler built R154 (5spd), or a V160 (6spd). R154 mates up nice sure, but they have their drawbacks. They are slowly climbing in price. They aren't always extremely easy to find locally, and you are often forced to just wait and see what comes up for sale online. Add in the cost of getting it built with the Marlin Crawler bits and the correct shifter arrangement, and you end up with a trans that can handle some power, but still is a bit of a ticking time bomb for anyone making a bit of torque or launching it. Add in the fact that it will likely have the common leak issue, and notchy shifting, just doesn't make it a solid option for some of us. The V160 option, I don't think I need to explain how expensive that is becoming, especially now that they've been discontinued.
The CD009 swap in my opinion is a great concept, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't think it was still a little bit in the maturing phase. These transmissions are a dime a dozen used, there's probably couple for $500-$700 at your local junk yard right now, or under $2000 for a brand spanking new one. So should you manage to blow one up, replacements are easy to find quickly and very affordable, and don't require additional cost/time to get 'built'. They seem to be able to handle a good amount of torque in stock form. As much as a V160, maybe yes maybe no, I'd say it's debatable at this point and not proven over and over to consistently hold tons of torque like the V160 has. But even holding 'almost' or 'not quite as as much' as a V160 is still pretty stout in my book and a great pitch to those of us in the 500-800 flywheel torque range. The gearing is excellent for our cars, almost identical to the V160. They shift excellent.
But there are drawbacks of course. The shifter location has been an on going concern, but we're slowly starting to see solutions arise as this swap starts to mature with the SerialNine and Fenning shifters available to purchase, and this other potential DIY option we're working on here. The physical size has been a concern, but once again as this swap is maturing we're seeing solutions from Collins and others to address that with the new bellhousing swap versions. Lack of a speed sensor, but there are solutions for that now. These things take time, but we're seeing these issues start to get ironed out.
I still think there is a bit of maturing that is happening with this swap, and I think it may nearly be there. And I think it's important for us to continue to support it so that it does reach a fully matured state. Once it's matured, and there's proven solutions for all of the little 'nuances', perhaps in the future it will be as normal as a TH400 swap is today.
Another update:
I have just about 600 miles on the setup now. Still driving strong. Did a nice 2-4 pull yesterday and everything held fine. I have read reviews on this southbend clutch kit that the engagement point seems to get higher (more away from the floor) on the clutch pedal as you put mileage on. And this does seem to be the case. So, my clutch seems to be breaking in just fine. This clutch is amazing. Seriously. So easy to drive. I have stalled out stock clutches easier. This thing just grabs into 1st. But not jerky at all. Still no weird noises, smells, klunks, nothing. Other than that very subtle vibration in 4th gear. But I guess that's just something I will have to get used to.
I am getting used to the gearing. With the stock SC400 diff, 1st gear is basically a waste. Can't do any exciting pulls, and is extremely short. It's good for getting the car moving and into 2nd, that's it. I think I will be changing out to my LS400 diff very soon. I am also getting used to the extremely short throws in between shifts. Just still a bit cautious when going into 6th because I don't have the reverse lockout feature yet. I am still very happy. I think I will like it even more once I change out the diff and can actually play around on the streets a little
I have just about 600 miles on the setup now. Still driving strong. Did a nice 2-4 pull yesterday and everything held fine. I have read reviews on this southbend clutch kit that the engagement point seems to get higher (more away from the floor) on the clutch pedal as you put mileage on. And this does seem to be the case. So, my clutch seems to be breaking in just fine. This clutch is amazing. Seriously. So easy to drive. I have stalled out stock clutches easier. This thing just grabs into 1st. But not jerky at all. Still no weird noises, smells, klunks, nothing. Other than that very subtle vibration in 4th gear. But I guess that's just something I will have to get used to.
I am getting used to the gearing. With the stock SC400 diff, 1st gear is basically a waste. Can't do any exciting pulls, and is extremely short. It's good for getting the car moving and into 2nd, that's it. I think I will be changing out to my LS400 diff very soon. I am also getting used to the extremely short throws in between shifts. Just still a bit cautious when going into 6th because I don't have the reverse lockout feature yet. I am still very happy. I think I will like it even more once I change out the diff and can actually play around on the streets a little
I highly recommend getting the 3.26 SC400 / SC430 diff. I have 3 of them. They are pretty inexpensive, and they used to be very easy to find on eBay or wherever. But as people are catching on, they are starting to become a little less easy to find. I'm always keeping an eye out for em!
PS - I ordered the SB Stage 3 clutch w/ Sprung 6-puck rated at 715tq
PS - I ordered the SB Stage 3 clutch w/ Sprung 6-puck rated at 715tq
Got my new clutch. It's a South Bend Stage 3, 2700lb pressure plate, sprung 6-puck disc. Rated at 715tq. Should do nicely. If I run into issues, with it not holding, I can upgrade to their Extreme pressure plate in the future (3000-3200lb).
Nice! You will like that pressure plate. Not very firm at all! I imagine it might be a little more on/off than mine with the puck disc, but at least you won't be fighting the clutch pedal while finding gears. Let us know how it drives
Also, what is the break in period on that puck disc?
Also, what is the break in period on that puck disc?
I'm pretty used to driving pucked clutches, so I'm not worried. And the Pressure Plate is about the same force as my previous JWT one was. So pedal pressure I'm not worried about either.
Break in period, no idea.
Break in period, no idea.
nice, looking to hear how your rattle changes Halon. You are getting the new flywheel too though eh? I am pondering if i can get away with just a different clutch/pp or if my problem really is the fact that my flywheel is 5/8" thinner. (and my transmission now too.. doh)
i might basically have to rebuy almost everything to fix this rattle :|
i might basically have to rebuy almost everything to fix this rattle :|