CD009 350Z 6spd On 1JZ SC400
Also, as Ali stated, the shifts are very nice and crisp. But at the same time, at least to me, there is a noticeable amount of extra pressure required to get through the gears as compared to OEM shifter setup. In addition to the existing neutral return springs that are in the trans, there are also neutral return springs in the 240sx shifter housing. So that is more force that you have to overcome. I have been trying to brainstorm with myself how to get away with removing those springs out of the 240sx housing to make it easier to get through the gears. Also, I would think that the spring tension somehow gets transferred along the shaft and applied to the JB welded plastic shifter bushing. Which is not ideal, even though I know it is not going anywhere.
Only problem is that in the shifter housing, the springs are located underneath the plate being held down with 4 screws. There is a dowel pin pressed through the shaft that acts on the springs when the shifter is moved around. The springs are also what keep the shaft down inside the housing. Without them, you could pull the shaft up and down inside the housing (which would in turn pull the little pivot ball at the very bottom of the shifter out from the JB welded plastic bushing).
So, I thought of maybe removing the springs inside the trans, but would rather not do that and figure out a way to remove the springs in the shifter, while also being able to keep the shifter seated in the housing. Or maybe even cutting the springs back a little bit so that there is not as much tension..
All of this sounds a little hodge podge, but just to clarify that I think it is definitely a viable solution. Just trying to achieve the most ideal setup. I guess time will tell once I get it installed
Only problem is that in the shifter housing, the springs are located underneath the plate being held down with 4 screws. There is a dowel pin pressed through the shaft that acts on the springs when the shifter is moved around. The springs are also what keep the shaft down inside the housing. Without them, you could pull the shaft up and down inside the housing (which would in turn pull the little pivot ball at the very bottom of the shifter out from the JB welded plastic bushing).
So, I thought of maybe removing the springs inside the trans, but would rather not do that and figure out a way to remove the springs in the shifter, while also being able to keep the shifter seated in the housing. Or maybe even cutting the springs back a little bit so that there is not as much tension..
All of this sounds a little hodge podge, but just to clarify that I think it is definitely a viable solution. Just trying to achieve the most ideal setup. I guess time will tell once I get it installed
That's not too bad. I'm going to do it.
So I thought I read you guys could not drill through that shaft, it's too tough. So how did you attach that brass end onto the shaft then? You inserted a roll pin, you must have gotta a hole drilled in there. Maybe something I'm not understanding.
So I thought I read you guys could not drill through that shaft, it's too tough. So how did you attach that brass end onto the shaft then? You inserted a roll pin, you must have gotta a hole drilled in there. Maybe something I'm not understanding.
We used the existing hole. Just have to take an angle grinder to the shaft to shorten it up a little bit. Then drill a new set of holes in the little brass piece to get the brass piece closer to the trans in effect helping to center the shifter easier
There is no way to drill through that rod. My center punch tip broke off lol
Also, I replaced the roll pin with a screw to make it easier to remove in the future. There will be no way to get a hammer and punch in there in the tunnel when trans is mounted
Gotcha, so there was an existing hole there. I think I missed that part. Cool well hopefully the shifter gets here soon enough and I'm planning on trying it out. My row boat shifter got me by for a few years, and actually wasn't too bad in the end. But it'll be nice to have a little bit more normal shifter again.
Gotcha, so there was an existing hole there. I think I missed that part. Cool well hopefully the shifter gets here soon enough and I'm planning on trying it out. My row boat shifter got me by for a few years, and actually wasn't too bad in the end. But it'll be nice to have a little bit more normal shifter again.
oh mine is still a few weeks away as well. I have 2 kids that don't let me work on my car very often, lol. Plus I am still waiting on my new clutch setup, and also the new adapter setup from Collins. I'm also swapping in a different FFIM. So it'll be awhile yet!
Are you pulling the motor for the FFIM?
I FINALLY got all ,my stiff from Collins today. only took like a month and 6 days. lol.. I blew up my W56 at Pats Acres Race Complex on sunday, sooooo, time to get moving.
I ordered the AllBoost shifter which i have yet to receive do to their 2 week lead time on the setup.
Im not sure if i will do a separate thread for this collins install considering you knocked it out of the park, maybe I will highlight the difference in the Twin Disc install.
Now hurry up. I want to see this done!!!
I ordered the AllBoost shifter which i have yet to receive do to their 2 week lead time on the setup.
Im not sure if i will do a separate thread for this collins install considering you knocked it out of the park, maybe I will highlight the difference in the Twin Disc install.
Now hurry up. I want to see this done!!!
I FINALLY got all ,my stiff from Collins today. only took like a month and 6 days. lol.. I blew up my W56 at Pats Acres Race Complex on sunday, sooooo, time to get moving.
I ordered the AllBoost shifter which i have yet to receive do to their 2 week lead time on the setup.
Im not sure if i will do a separate thread for this collins install considering you knocked it out of the park, maybe I will highlight the difference in the Twin Disc install.
Now hurry up. I want to see this done!!!
I ordered the AllBoost shifter which i have yet to receive do to their 2 week lead time on the setup.
Im not sure if i will do a separate thread for this collins install considering you knocked it out of the park, maybe I will highlight the difference in the Twin Disc install.
Now hurry up. I want to see this done!!!
Oh, and at the track I bumped Into a dude ive been friends with on FB that messaged me about the collins install that he did. He offered help if I need it. He mentioned his trans went in no problem with the engine in the car..
That's not too bad. I'm going to do it.
So I thought I read you guys could not drill through that shaft, it's too tough. So how did you attach that brass end onto the shaft then? You inserted a roll pin, you must have gotta a hole drilled in there. Maybe something I'm not understanding.
So I thought I read you guys could not drill through that shaft, it's too tough. So how did you attach that brass end onto the shaft then? You inserted a roll pin, you must have gotta a hole drilled in there. Maybe something I'm not understanding.
The brass piece already has a hole on it that will line up, but if you drill another hole in the brass piece more towards the front, you can save like 1/2", and the brass is easy to drill through like butter.
so hole on output shaft stays where it is, and you drill a new hole on the brass piece to reduce the length some.
You don't have to do it but I was doing everything that was possible and relatively easy to get the shifter to 32"
here you see where the original hole is
here you see where I drilled a new hole at the front and cut the back portion off where the original was, forgot I had these pics saved.
So, I thought of maybe removing the springs inside the trans, but would rather not do that and figure out a way to remove the springs in the shifter, while also being able to keep the shifter seated in the housing. Or maybe even cutting the springs back a little bit so that there is not as much tension..
All of this sounds a little hodge podge, but just to clarify that I think it is definitely a viable solution. Just trying to achieve the most ideal setup. I guess time will tell once I get it installed
All of this sounds a little hodge podge, but just to clarify that I think it is definitely a viable solution. Just trying to achieve the most ideal setup. I guess time will tell once I get it installed
I did a lot of small stuff but honestly it doesn't take more than 15 minutes to do once you figure out the right way to go about it.
We used the existing hole. Just have to take an angle grinder to the shaft to shorten it up a little bit. Then drill a new set of holes in the little brass piece to get the brass piece closer to the trans in effect helping to center the shifter easier
There is no way to drill through that rod. My center punch tip broke off lol
Also, I replaced the roll pin with a screw to make it easier to remove in the future. There will be no way to get a hammer and punch in there in the tunnel when trans is mounted
There is no way to drill through that rod. My center punch tip broke off lol
Also, I replaced the roll pin with a screw to make it easier to remove in the future. There will be no way to get a hammer and punch in there in the tunnel when trans is mounted
Last edited by Ali SC3; Apr 12, 2016 at 12:38 PM.
I FINALLY got all ,my stiff from Collins today. only took like a month and 6 days. lol.. I blew up my W56 at Pats Acres Race Complex on sunday, sooooo, time to get moving.
I ordered the AllBoost shifter which i have yet to receive do to their 2 week lead time on the setup.
Im not sure if i will do a separate thread for this collins install considering you knocked it out of the park, maybe I will highlight the difference in the Twin Disc install.
Now hurry up. I want to see this done!!!
I ordered the AllBoost shifter which i have yet to receive do to their 2 week lead time on the setup.
Im not sure if i will do a separate thread for this collins install considering you knocked it out of the park, maybe I will highlight the difference in the Twin Disc install.
Now hurry up. I want to see this done!!!







