CD009 350Z 6spd On 1JZ SC400
Just came across this thread. Yeah this tranny is massive. I have my tunnel beat enough that with the engine fully tilted back I can get it in and out, but it's not fun. I just had to pull it because my JWT clutch died. I'm going to be switching to the A340 setup when I put it all back in.
I found this though looking for some ideas for a better shifter. I'm on a row boat setup right now. If this helps me shorten that a bit, I might try to do it while it's out. I'm just having a hard time understanding exactly what I need. I think this is what you're saying I'd need.
-240sx short shifter setup.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Short...pWeavs&vxp=mtr
-BRZ short shifter setup.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NNR-SHORT-TH...dU8X6G&vxp=mtr
Is that it?
I found this though looking for some ideas for a better shifter. I'm on a row boat setup right now. If this helps me shorten that a bit, I might try to do it while it's out. I'm just having a hard time understanding exactly what I need. I think this is what you're saying I'd need.
-240sx short shifter setup.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Short...pWeavs&vxp=mtr
-BRZ short shifter setup.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NNR-SHORT-TH...dU8X6G&vxp=mtr
Is that it?
Haha, I may make a build thread after all. Been through hell working on a vvti NA-T.
I've been talking to Brett Fenning (the guy making shifter assemblies for cd9 to mkiv/sc) and he said he's managed to squeeze the CD9 into the mkiv chassis a few times with the engine in. Guess I'm gonna see how colorful my vocabulary can get and I'll update you guys if it's successful and share any tips he's got. Not optimistic, just stubborn.
I've been talking to Brett Fenning (the guy making shifter assemblies for cd9 to mkiv/sc) and he said he's managed to squeeze the CD9 into the mkiv chassis a few times with the engine in. Guess I'm gonna see how colorful my vocabulary can get and I'll update you guys if it's successful and share any tips he's got. Not optimistic, just stubborn.

Just came across this thread. Yeah this tranny is massive. I have my tunnel beat enough that with the engine fully tilted back I can get it in and out, but it's not fun. I just had to pull it because my JWT clutch died. I'm going to be switching to the A340 setup when I put it all back in.
I found this though looking for some ideas for a better shifter. I'm on a row boat setup right now. If this helps me shorten that a bit, I might try to do it while it's out. I'm just having a hard time understanding exactly what I need. I think this is what you're saying I'd need.
-240sx short shifter setup.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Short...pWeavs&vxp=mtr
-BRZ short shifter setup.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NNR-SHORT-TH...dU8X6G&vxp=mtr
Is that it?
I found this though looking for some ideas for a better shifter. I'm on a row boat setup right now. If this helps me shorten that a bit, I might try to do it while it's out. I'm just having a hard time understanding exactly what I need. I think this is what you're saying I'd need.
-240sx short shifter setup.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Short...pWeavs&vxp=mtr
-BRZ short shifter setup.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NNR-SHORT-TH...dU8X6G&vxp=mtr
Is that it?
Now, you can also use the V160 shifter. It is a bit cheaper than the BRZ, but I went with the BRZ for a couple of reasons. One being that there was more shaft between that reverse lockout ring/flange and the pivot ball, which means that I have a bit more material between my weld and reverse lockout mechanism. Also, the BRZ shifter has the spring built into the mechanism, not on top of the mechanism as the V160 does. So, you can use ANY shift ****, it doesn't have to be a shift **** with the recess in it to accept and hide the spring.
To make the shifter work, all you will need to do is remove the u-joint that is on the end of the shift rod and cut off the TOP tab. Get a step bit and drill the hole on the bottom tab until the plastic bushing on the 240sx shifter fits snug. Then JB weld that sucker in. Leave an electric heater or light bulb on it for 24 hours so that it cures as best as possible. Then its not going anywhere.
Also, I drilled new holes in the U-joint thing on the end of the shift rod so that it can sit further up the shift rod. I replaced the roll pin with a M6 screw for easier removal. Have a look throughout this thread and you will see everything that I have done.
I'm not sure where the A340 bellhousing is going to make the shifter sit, but with the full cd009 bellhousing, and all of the mods that I have done, along with the gated shifter bezel, it should sit just about center in that gated shifter trim. But we will have to see when everything gets installed.
Another option for you if a true mechanical reverse lockout is not necessary is Brett Fenning's shifter that he makes. It's very similar to just a 240sx shifter, but he makes a swan neck style shifter with a series of welds. He also instructs you to modify the neutral center return springs so that it is "tougher" to get the shifter over to reverse. So, not a true lockout, but harder to do unconsciously. I myself want the true lockout though because these shifts are insanely short between gears since you are directly operating the shift rod without the u-joint / lever slop. But you can look him up on facebook and friend request/message him. He will get back to you fairly quick. You can also look up AllBoost Motorsports on FB, which is his LLC name.
Keith
I think I'm going to pass on Brett's solution for now. The reverse lock-out is nice, but I've never had reverse lock-out on any of my cars in the past so I'm not going to lose any sleep if I don't have it.
I believe the A340 setup places the shifter in damn near the same spot. I think Collin's might have said fractions of an inch more forward, nothing major.
I also have a gated cover sitting at home as well. So might be a good time to just give this all a shot while the tranny is sitting on the floor.
I believe the A340 setup places the shifter in damn near the same spot. I think Collin's might have said fractions of an inch more forward, nothing major.
I also have a gated cover sitting at home as well. So might be a good time to just give this all a shot while the tranny is sitting on the floor.
If reverse lockout is not important to you, then you don't even need that BRZ shifter. I will only be welding the two together so that I can use the lockout functionality of the BRZ shifter.
Sweet!
You will also see in this thread how I stacked washers to use as standoffs when mounting that shifter plate, and how I cut up the OEM remote mount bracketry to create make shift brackets for the 240sx shifter. So I guess there is some misc hardware you will need to pick up. Most of the customization related to mounting the shifter is on pages 5-6.
Also, in the next day or two, I will get some measurements for you so that you know where to locate the mounting holes on the shifter plate. I originally missed it by about 1/5" when I eyeballed where everything needed to be for the shifter shaft to be centered in the housing when in neutral. As a result, I couldn't hit the forward gears (1,3,5) because the shaft was banging into the housing. So, I had to elongate my original holes. But I will get some dims for you
You will also see in this thread how I stacked washers to use as standoffs when mounting that shifter plate, and how I cut up the OEM remote mount bracketry to create make shift brackets for the 240sx shifter. So I guess there is some misc hardware you will need to pick up. Most of the customization related to mounting the shifter is on pages 5-6.
Also, in the next day or two, I will get some measurements for you so that you know where to locate the mounting holes on the shifter plate. I originally missed it by about 1/5" when I eyeballed where everything needed to be for the shifter shaft to be centered in the housing when in neutral. As a result, I couldn't hit the forward gears (1,3,5) because the shaft was banging into the housing. So, I had to elongate my original holes. But I will get some dims for you
Yeah, I gotta see if I still have that old stock mount laying around. I'm currently running the billet aluminum shorter base that saves a few inches (but still not enough lol).
pages 5-6? This is page 4 for me
pages 5-6? This is page 4 for me
yeah I ended up slotting out a few of my mounting holes so you can bolt it down just right. you guys are making me want to swap in the 350 trans already lol, but cant till later this year.
Only do this if you guys are after a real short shifter, cause as LoveSCs said, it makes the shifts incredibly short and crisp, but it doesn't require a lot of pressure to shift it actually feels nice to me.
Everything LoveSCs has said is spot on, something we both did that I didn't see mentioned is we both grinded the top part of the 350z trans housing flat, where the shift rod comes out its round and the shifter plate sits wierd on it, so I grinded mine a little flatter (I see LoveSCs also did this) but then I put a big washer on top of it before bolting down the 240sx base over it, so the big washer helps spread out the stress on the 240sx shifter plate (I am not sure of the quality of metal used here from china).
here you can see where I grinded it flat

you can see the edge of the washer in the top left of this photo, its just wedged between the plate and the trans.

I was using 3 bolt holes

32" with full 350z bellhousing on
Only do this if you guys are after a real short shifter, cause as LoveSCs said, it makes the shifts incredibly short and crisp, but it doesn't require a lot of pressure to shift it actually feels nice to me.
Everything LoveSCs has said is spot on, something we both did that I didn't see mentioned is we both grinded the top part of the 350z trans housing flat, where the shift rod comes out its round and the shifter plate sits wierd on it, so I grinded mine a little flatter (I see LoveSCs also did this) but then I put a big washer on top of it before bolting down the 240sx base over it, so the big washer helps spread out the stress on the 240sx shifter plate (I am not sure of the quality of metal used here from china).
here you can see where I grinded it flat
you can see the edge of the washer in the top left of this photo, its just wedged between the plate and the trans.
I was using 3 bolt holes
32" with full 350z bellhousing on
Last edited by Ali SC3; Apr 12, 2016 at 09:36 AM.
That's not too bad. I'm going to do it.
So I thought I read you guys could not drill through that shaft, it's too tough. So how did you attach that brass end onto the shaft then? You inserted a roll pin, you must have gotta a hole drilled in there. Maybe something I'm not understanding.
So I thought I read you guys could not drill through that shaft, it's too tough. So how did you attach that brass end onto the shaft then? You inserted a roll pin, you must have gotta a hole drilled in there. Maybe something I'm not understanding.






