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Last night I pulled the engine harness from the firewall and began unwrapping it up to the big joint near the EGR valve. I also unwrapped a lot of it starting from the resistor pack connector to trace that wire. I could not find that particular resistor pack Pin 1 wire anywhere once it became buried inside the big engine harness joint/elbow behind the EGR valve.
I kept testing continuity of that pin with the body plug SC IJ1 and then the other body plugs. Still nothing... but much easier to do this with the plug side of the harness on top of the engine.
Then I tried something different: the wires on my SC IJ1-3 and SC IJ1-7 are both black with white stripes. I have always considered this to not be a positive power color but since that's what I'm looking for and that's what the pins are for... I began testing both pins with other similarly colored wires that I found on the resistor pack connector and other connectors next to it.
I got continuity from IJ1-7 to one pin of the Noise Filter that is on the side of the TT Igniter. My interest was piqued!
Then I started testing OTHER pins on the injector resistor pack. There was indeed a black with white stripe wire on Pin 2 of my resistor pack connector. I put my multimeter leads to SC IJ1-3 and that Pin 2 and got continuity! Had someone swapped two (or more?) wires on my resistor pack connector? I'm not sure but I pulled out that terminal end and the off-white colored wire in Pin 1. I inserted that black with white stripe wire into resistor connector Pin 1 and the white wire into Pin 2.
NOW I got continuity between SC IJ1-3 and resistor pack Pin 1!!!
Could it be this simple? Someone just pulled out two wires for some reason and then put them back incorrectly? And I hope injector #1 is OK since this means that with the wiring done incorrectly it was getting all of the SC IJ1-3's 12V power with no resistor in-line.
I could not just leave it like that and assume so. I had to be sure that the other wires on the resistor connector were doing what they should be doing. I also had to be sure that the rest of the injector circuit was going to behave correctly.
So I pulled out injector connectors #2, #3 and #4 (the injector #1 connector is very hard to get to as are injector connectors #5 and #6) and tested each of their Pin 1 terminals to the corresponding pin for each of those injectors on the resistor pack connector.
I got continuity for each of those injector wires. So far so good! Even if that test wasn't for every injector I was satisfied.
Next, I went to the 80-pin ECU connector "B" and found pins 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20. As an incomplete sample I tested:
All of these tested with good continuity!! Now I was feeling much better about having solved this issue.
But now I had to re-wrap 2/3rds of the engine harness and get its ECU and body plug side back through the firewall. That took a while and killed plenty of Scotch Super 33+ electrical tape:
It took a couple of hours but I got everything sealed back up and reset good as new. Yes, Ali... definitely a LOT of work. Moral of the story (aka hindsight is 20/20): before unwrapping an engine harness under the assumption that a factory wire that should be there is somehow missing or buried... try first testing wires adjacent to each other in a given connector in case someone pulled them out and put them back in the wrong way. That's a much easier mistake for someone to have made in the first place.
The ECU plugs, SC body plugs and custom accessory plugs were all reconnected and the interior carpet was laid back into its normal position.
Before I finished up last night I also added the resistors to the Sub-Throttle TPS connector which used to be part of the Supra's TRAC system. When I get to start up the car again hopefully the CEL Code 47 for that will now be defeated.
...
I was too tired to write all that last night so this is a belated update only a couple of hours before I reconnect the battery and attempt to start up the car again
I'm tempted to cycle the oil again with the EFI fuse, resistor pack and Igniter disconnected. Just to be safe and kind to the new engine.
And yes, Gerry... I agree with you that SC IJ1-7 would be able to carry more power since it should theoretically be a bigger wire than SC IJ1-3. In my engine harness the two were about the same gauge so I just left Pin 7 for the Igniter power and Pin 3 for the injector/resistor power.
Congrats and wow glad you figured that out but darn how could that have happened 🤔.
Same thing sort of similar happened to me when I was wiring my ds62 igniter for TT ECU mod. When I reverted the mod to stock I could not started the car initially. Afterward, I traced it back to the igniter connector I have swapped two wires that I thought for sure that I had wired it up correctly. 😂
after a couple of days, emails and a lot of text messages trouble shooting the wiring to get it started , finally got it to start , but it was really rough with metal to metal scratching noise as I heard it on the videos he sent me. After more trouble shooting , it wasn't an internal noise , just some accessory noises.. it finally is now purring like a kitten... just having done the 20 minute 2000-32000 varying rpm run as initial startup / breaking in
he was right there about to throw up the towel and wanting to burn it to the ground and even contacted a local Toyota Master Mechanic who could eventually work on it .... hahaha ... just classic startup problems I would say that many who are new to engine builds and wiring go through ! You give up , you loose. It is not really rocket science as I keep saying. Just some loose ends to tie up now .
Now after a while , Craig , you can test drive it to my place and bring my short block so I can slap a GE VVTi head on it, boost it and see what it gives us and where it leads us. I just finished my engine harness for a boosted 2jzGE VVTi !
^^ Ali, everything Gerry just stated above is what has been going on since my last post. Yes, it did FINALLY start correctly and it was thanks to Gerry helping me troubleshoot through several minor but compounded problems. The engine is in fact in perfect shape and does purr now.
I indeed was this {--} close to stopping all together if the grating metal on metal noise turned out to be an internal engine issue. Thankfully it wasn't.
But even with all the wiring harness wrapping and unwrapping logged to date I should have fully inspected the injector and coil wiring more closely far sooner.
The lesson learned here is that while I did go through 80% or more of the harness wiring for connector conversion, running some new wires and connector and terminal end repairs... since they looked untouched (to me) upon inspection I never actually inspected the wires for the injector connectors and ALL coil pack connectors. I did inspect and repair those that were obviously broken or frayed but what I had not realized is that one injector connector (for cylinder #5) was causing voltage contamination to the ECU negative terminal for that injector (how it is possible that plastic can become conductive is beyond me but replacing the connector fixed this issue)... and also there were some REALLY bad and amateurish solder splices with frayed wires on some of the injector connector wires as well as with several coil connector terminal wires.
All of those issues had to be repaired before the engine fired up smoothly. While I did go through many things before installing the harness onto the engine, the lesson is that I should not have assumed quite so much that these wires would have been untouched.
There was also the my mistake of accidentally reversing which wire constituted the tachometer output and tachometer input wires for the MSD Tach Adapter (which I could have just used the other cluster jumper method for).
Ali, the TT fuel pump ECU wiring as I showed in earlier posts has worked out beautifully by the way. Perfect operation there.
The worst issue has been the awful noise that Gerry described above and which I shared with him in a few videos. I really thought this could have been an internal engine issue-- something with either the crank bearings or camshafts-- but these were incorrect assumptions on my part. When directed to simply remove the accessory drive belt and start the car for less than a minute (and no more since there was nothing to drive the water pump, mechanical fan or alternator) the sound wasn't there at all!
Putting the accessory belt back on and starting the car for the piston ring seating procedure I became extremely certain of it being the new re-manufactured power steering pump because of the varying bad oscillations through the steering wheel depending on how I turned it.
Imagine the sound of bearings in something going bad, combined with a truly horrible constant screeching noise. And then imagine those bearing and screechy squeaking noises getting worse the more the accessory pump is run. That's how bad it is.
I did the run-in of the piston rings as Gerry described (2000-3000 RPM for 20 minutes exactly while varying the revs in 200-300 rpm stages) with the bad noise and that went smoothly. The ECU did throw a Code 24 (Intake Air Temp Sensor located in the MAF) thirteen minutes in and there was some stumbling occasionally when I would approach 3,000 rpm. So each time I would back off a bit 300 rpm at a time and then work my way back up... always keeping the engine rpm level changing all the way to 3k and all the way down to 2k over and over.
I turned the house A/C down until it got to 73F indoors and tested the USDM TT MAF from the car and my spare MAF. Both were well within the K-Ohm resistance range specified in the 2JZ-GTE Troubleshooting TSRM. I also inspected the MAF connector and wires for any signs of insulation cracking, fraying or poor solder repair--- all good and original untouched wires in clean condition.
So I just replaced the same MAF unit and will assume it was a fluke occurrence.
I'm going to buy one of the MVP Motorsports "Max Air" dividers for MKIV TT's that allows sectioning off an open element filter from hot engine bay air. Maybe too much underhood head (even with the hood being open) with 20 minutes of sustained revving was what caused the CEL 24 to be thrown.
......
I really need a GoPro camera to post a video of something with this car. I have bigger camera equipment but I have no rigs for in-car mounting right now. After this years' long thread I think everyone would enjoy a good video, lol.
What is left to do now is:
--replace all the spark plugs tomorrow with new Denso IK20's. Overkill perhaps but I just want a solid baseline from here on out. They were not expensive.
--Replace the bad power steering pump and ever so *slightly* not true pulley. I am waiting on a brand new factory TT PS pump from a dealer which has it on order. I have a new factory pulley on order from Japan. I need to pick up a new crush washer for the pressure line banjo too.
--monitor a very minor leak at the water pump upper coolant elbow near the gasket surface that mates to the cylinder head. This elbow had a rock hard petrified gasket on it during the parts prep and cleaning phase of the build many months ago. I took it to a machine shop and they were able to remove that petrified gasket material but I wonder if the surface was left 100% flat and even. I will monitor and address it later... maybe with another TT upper coolant elbow.
At current time... that's it! Only a couple of small things left to address but the car is ready to be driven now I'm just reluctant to at the moment due to how absolutely horrible the PS pump is making steering effort and how close it sounds to totally failing and maybe even seizing up its own internal shaft... if that is even possible with these pumps. It is so bad that people at stoplights will likely be turning their heads in disgust at me And to boot I will probably lose my power steering in short order.
Once that PS pump arrives in the mail... in it goes and then it's drive time
Also, in the near future I want to figure out a proper solution for building a quality bracket for a small PS cooler that can be mounted in the driver's side bumper vent. I decided to put that off until after the engine is broken in but I do think it will make a difference with any "fun" driving? Or even fun technical mountain canyon driving involving a lot of constant steering angle changes?
....
Gerry, I am going to begin the prep of the 2JZ-GE block before I get the rest of the SC sorted. After all the details we discussed as to what you'll be doing with it, I can't wait to see the results! You are FAST with your electrical work, having finished that VVT-i harness already. It's very cool to know that soon it will still get the boosted life that I'd have liked to give it before I decided on doing the 2JZ-GTE swap.
I love that the Non-VVT-i blocks can be converted to give a VVT-i oil feed to those heads.
Congrats and wow glad you figured that out but darn how could that have happened 🤔.
Same thing sort of similar happened to me when I was wiring my ds62 igniter for TT ECU mod. When I reverted the mod to stock I could not started the car initially. Afterward, I traced it back to the igniter connector I have swapped two wires that I thought for sure that I had wired it up correctly. 😂
Coming back to your post, shajbot. I'm not sure how it could have happened or if I did it or the previous user of the harness did it but it's as you say... a simple mis-insertion of the pins
Over the course of this project I have learned the hard way that we really do have to check every connection to be sure it's all in good shape.
Gerry, I am going to begin the prep of the 2JZ-GE block before I get the rest of the SC sorted. After all the details we discussed as to what you'll be doing with it, I can't wait to see the results! You are FAST with your electrical work, having finished that VVT-i harness already. It's very cool to know that soon it will still get the boosted life that I'd have liked to give it before I decided on doing the 2JZ-GTE swap.
I love that the Non-VVT-i blocks can be converted to give a VVT-i oil feed to those heads.
Craig , get everything sorted out on your car and get it running good first. You are gonna use it anyway to bring that short block.. hahaha . You know that boosted GE VVTi will be a side project for me. It is not something I need to have soon. It is just something that will keep me busy so get your car in tip top condition first.
Something else is keeping me busy at the moment . A local member here wanted to junk a 1993 5 speed shell since he moved everything he had into a 2000 shell. He told me about his plan on the 5speed shell so I decided to let him tow it to my place up there in Atlanta. You know I can't stand a good 5 speed shell with a good title being junked and brought to the scrap yard. Now am back to 7 SCs in that place . I have just installed a complete black interior, complete +1997 body kit in it . I did replace every wiring and electrical component with that from a 2000 too. You will see it there when you come over. I will install your unopened block in it together with a GE VVTi head I have around after installing all ARP hardware (head, mains , rods) and see where that block brings me.
That is great news! congrats on the start up. all those are pretty minor and sure you will get it sorted out soon.
You can try getting some of the air out of the PS pump, sometimes they make a terrible noise until you get some of the air out, wheels up in the air and move wheel side to side.
Craig , get everything sorted out on your car and get it running good first. You are gonna use it anyway to bring that short block.. hahaha . You know that boosted GE VVTi will be a side project for me. It is not something I need to have soon. It is just something that will keep me busy so get your car in tip top condition first.
Okay, I'll focus on the SC for now. But... as you'll read below I may have some wait time into next week before I can get it all sorted so I may just use the time to remove the cylinder head from the 2JZ-GE and prep it for you anyway.
Speaking of which... I'm considering one of those vehicle specific rear hitches (a "Curtis"?? model?) to be able to pull a small trailer with the short block on it. I know you said I should use the trunk but I don't want to mess up the liners and other bits in there. And I have been considering a hidden hitch the use of a very compact rear trailer for moving purposes later on anyway. I'd never tow anything major with my SC of course.
Originally Posted by gerrb
Something else is keeping me busy at the moment . A local member here wanted to junk a 1993 5 speed shell since he moved everything he had into a 2000 shell. He told me about his plan on the 5speed shell so I decided to let him tow it to my place up there in Atlanta. You know I can't stand a good 5 speed shell with a good title being junked and brought to the scrap yard. Now am back to 7 SCs in that place . I have just installed a complete black interior, complete +1997 body kit in it . I did replace every wiring and electrical component with that from a 2000 too. You will see it there when you come over. I will install your unopened block in it together with a GE VVTi head I have around after installing all ARP hardware (head, mains , rods) and see where that block brings me.
Back up to that many SC's already, haha But I do support this good cause. Even if it were to be sold as is you have saved it by prepping it for someone to take over. Did it come with the W58 transmission or will you install a stronger transmission into it since you plan to install my old GE block with the GTE VVT-i head and set it up for a turbo from the start?
Originally Posted by Ali SC3
That is great news! congrats on the start up. all those are pretty minor and sure you will get it sorted out soon.
You can try getting some of the air out of the PS pump, sometimes they make a terrible noise until you get some of the air out, wheels up in the air and move wheel side to side.
Thank you Ali! Yes, I agree. Compared to what was on the table before these are minor things. And thank you for telling me that about PS pump noise-- I didn't know that was a thing since I already had plenty of ATF fluid in the system. Today I actually did try getting some air out of the PS pump even though it's getting replaced regardless but for another reason entirely I wasn't able to drive the car just yet.
.....
Tonight I was planning to start up the SC and drive it through warmup and then home. I changed out the spark plugs with all new IK20's and turned the ignition. The engine ran smoothly as before aside from the PS pump bearings being noisy and bad. And the CEL light came back on again (I didn't check it this time but I suspect it may still be the Intake Air Sensor Code 24... will see later).
If there truly is a problem with my MAF (which contains the IAT sensor) I'll switch to my spare one.
But... the dang R154 wouldn't go into gear when the engine was on. It would when it was OFF but not with the engine running. I shut it off and looked up this symptom and it sounds like the issue is either low clutch fluid, a bad clutch slave cylinder or a bad clutch assembly. I checked my clutch fluid and it looks like it is at the low mark. I also remembered that I seemed to have a little damage to my slave cylinder once the boot was torn. That's my main suspicion now, so I am ordering a new slave and will get all new clutch fluid.
And since the car is going to be sitting longer anyway, I figure I'll just wait on the new PS pump and pulley to just do it all at once.
Yet again I am VERY close but there are still just enough holdups to keep me from driving it right now ;D
Okay, I'll focus on the SC for now. But... as you'll read below I may have some wait time into next week before I can get it all sorted so I may just use the time to remove the cylinder head from the 2JZ-GE and prep it for you anyway.
Speaking of which... I'm considering one of those vehicle specific rear hitches (a "Curtis"?? model?) to be able to pull a small trailer with the short block on it. I know you said I should use the trunk but I don't want to mess up the liners and other bits in there. And I have been considering a hidden hitch the use of a very compact rear trailer for moving purposes later on anyway. I'd never tow anything major with my SC of course.
short block is only around 225lbs , just like a grown up dude at the back seat OR all your video equipments & stuff you had in the car the last time you were in my place in Atlanta . Those were even heavier .. hahaha. You can put planks of 2x4 and probably remove the trunk floor liner / carpet. Well , up to you my friend.
Originally Posted by KahnBB6
Back up to that many SC's already, haha But I do support this good cause. Even if it were to be sold as is you have saved it by prepping it for someone to take over. Did it come with the W58 transmission or will you install a stronger transmission into it since you plan to install my old GE block with the GTE VVT-i head and set it up for a turbo from the start?
The shell was only $100 towed to my place so I told him bring it on. It didn't have any drive train but the 4.08 diff was still there , bits and pieces of interior , no front bumper and pedals. The shell is in great shape ... no rusts and no signs of any bad accident both in and out of the car and the best is it had a clean title. It was going to the scrap yard and couldn't take it that a 5 speed is just about to be brought to the bone yard . So for that price knowing I had a complete black interior , complete 5 speed pedals, complete +97 body kit and complete wiring / electrical components to convert it to a 2000 SC300 functionality and look , I just had to let him tow it to my place. What is left of the 93 now is the bare shell and the title for which being 25 years old do not need any gov't mandated inspections.
I will get it running but really no plans of keeping it for good. You know , I already made a decision of keeping only TWO ... . All the rest, at the right time will have to go.
short block is only around 225lbs , just like a grown up dude at the back seat OR all your video equipments & stuff you had in the car the last time you were in my place in Atlanta . Those were even heavier .. hahaha. You can put planks of 2x4 and probably remove the trunk floor liner / carpet. Well , up to you my friend.
The shell was only $100 towed to my place so I told him bring it on. It didn't have any drive train but the 4.08 diff was still there , bits and pieces of interior , no front bumper and pedals. The shell is in great shape ... no rusts and no signs of any bad accident both in and out of the car and the best is it had a clean title. It was going to the scrap yard and couldn't take it that a 5 speed is just about to be brought to the bone yard . So for that price knowing I had a complete black interior , complete 5 speed pedals, complete +97 body kit and complete wiring / electrical components to convert it to a 2000 SC300 functionality and look , I just had to let him tow it to my place. What is left of the 93 now is the bare shell and the title for which being 25 years old do not need any gov't mandated inspections.
I will get it running but really no plans of keeping it for good. You know , I already made a decision of keeping only TWO ... . All the rest, at the right time will have to go.
Keep them alive Gerb! lol
I bet your excited Khan, I've been following the thread and know how much work you've put in. It will all be worth it!
short block is only around 225lbs , just like a grown up dude at the back seat OR all your video equipments & stuff you had in the car the last time you were in my place in Atlanta . Those were even heavier .. hahaha. You can put planks of 2x4 and probably remove the trunk floor liner / carpet. Well , up to you my friend.
You know, you are right. All together I did have a LOT of extra weight from my luggage plus all that work gear I was carrying in the trunk and back seat. I'll look into cutting a 1/2" think board to fit in the trunk. Just trying to figure if the bottom of the oil pan will clear if I set the engine in upside down or if it would need to rest on the side. I'll have to start taking measurements soon and figure out which route I want to go.
Originally Posted by gerrb
The shell was only $100 towed to my place so I told him bring it on. It didn't have any drive train but the 4.08 diff was still there , bits and pieces of interior , no front bumper and pedals. The shell is in great shape ... no rusts and no signs of any bad accident both in and out of the car and the best is it had a clean title. It was going to the scrap yard and couldn't take it that a 5 speed is just about to be brought to the bone yard . So for that price knowing I had a complete black interior , complete 5 speed pedals, complete +97 body kit and complete wiring / electrical components to convert it to a 2000 SC300 functionality and look , I just had to let him tow it to my place. What is left of the 93 now is the bare shell and the title for which being 25 years old do not need any gov't mandated inspections.
I will get it running but really no plans of keeping it for good. You know , I already made a decision of keeping only TWO ... . All the rest, at the right time will have to go.
Okay, then you are still sticking to your original decision I understand. Well... what you are doing is a good thing my friend. You've saved SC 5-speeds before and now another one. I do think this will be significant in years to come.
Originally Posted by scsexy
Keep them alive Gerb! lol
I bet your excited Khan, I've been following the thread and know how much work you've put in. It will all be worth it!
He certainly is! And thank you scsexy! I am excited for sure. I am also very tired and worn out from the whole process, haha It has been a learning curve for me. At this point I am ready for the engine swap gremlins to be gone for good. I just want to enjoy the SC again as it is for the... you know... "Mind Cruising"... as Toyota promised us, haha ;D
Originally Posted by BLK13X
Man what a journey! Congratulations on getting her fired up.
Thank you BLK13X!! It has been a huge journey. Going on eight years now since I bought the car. Planning to drive it as close to indefinitely in this tune as is possible
.....
Tomorrow I'll receive the new R154 slave cylinder in the mail. Hopefully, fingers crossed, that the transmission not going into gear with the engine on is just a combination of a bad slave cylinder and low hydraulic fluid or air in the clutch line. If it is determined that I did something wrong with the clutch install (my first one)... I am going to have the dealer redo that for me. I'm just not doing that again myself. Especially with the car in the driveway.
I already have the new factory Toyota power steering pump. I'm waiting to install that until I have the new factory PS pump pulley. I'm told it has shipped already but I have no tracking info to confirm it. I don't like the idea of spending unnecessarily but if it's just sitting in a warehouse in Japan right now with no action being taken I may just order another new one from a U.S. Toyota dealer (they cost a LOT more inside the U.S.) and just sell the other one at a later time.
I also still need to confirm whether or not the USDM TT MAF I used is actually in good shape. It threw a code the last two times I had the car running despite my having tested it as being within range.
Over the long term I want to see if the Intake Air Temperature sensor inside that MAF assembly can be rebuilt or replaced. Standard Motor Products and Airtex/Wells seem to have offered rebuilt USDM TT MAFs in the past (or still do occasionally... possibly). I want to see if this is possible to have done since there was only one version for all 93-98 USA/UK/Euro spec Supra TT's.
^^ dang Omar , what are you up to now ? You haven't been on the forum for a while ! Hope everything is going on well with you and family ! Busy with the kids .. hahaha ?
Craig - got all your parts in to get the car moving ?
07-27-18, 10:08 AM
and even contacted a local Toyota Master Mechanic who could eventually work on it .... hahaha ... just classic startup problems I would say that many who are new to engine builds and wiring go through ! You give up , you loose. It is not really rocket science as I keep saying. Just some loose ends to tie up now .
I'm just reluctant to at the moment due to how absolutely horrible the PS pump is making steering effort and how close it sounds to totally failing and maybe even seizing up its own internal shaft... if that is even possible with these pumps. It is so bad that people at stoplights will likely be turning their heads in disgust at me 
.. hahaha. You can put planks of 2x4 and probably remove the trunk floor liner / carpet. Well , up to you my friend.
