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I'm normally a proponent of soldering everything but Toyota viewed those crimps as suitable throughout the harness. I'm not aware of any issues with them failing. I'd just leave them alone and be sure I covered them well with heat shrink.
Originally Posted by jdmek998
I would deff heat shrink them to be safe. Those crimps are ok.
Okay, thanks guys. I'll set to giving them double heat shrink tubing. It is easier to just leave them as is and they are tidy factory connections.
Thanks guys! I also can’t wait— I miss driving my SC ;D
Progress is slow by myself and can only happen when I have access to a ride over to the garage. So far I cleaned up the workspace, removed the GE ignition system and throttle body (I am SO glad to be done with that stupid coolant bypass hose over the spark plug galley) and pulled the EFI main fuse.
Tomorrow I’ll drain the fluids, get final compression numbers from each cylinder of the GE and continue the removal process.
Also, my driver’s side tail light had been letting in water and needed replacement. It turns out that Lexus has discontinued the early style 1992-1994 tail lights so I ordered a good looking replacement from ebay. However that one also allows water in, so I sent the best of the two out to Organized Garage Status for restoration and repair.
There are many interior and cosmetic restoration projects I want to jump ahead to but I have to be strict with myself for now
Soon I’ll post the relevant TSRM pages I am using as an engine and R154 removal guide. I’m actually surprised by how straightforward the process is.
Several things to update on with my progress, but first I have to return to this as it is now the last thing holding me up from final wrapping of the wiring harness:
Originally Posted by gerrb
Just to confirm :
.......
Theft horn wires ... they go only from IJ1-4 and IJ1-9 (SC Body plugs) to the horn. They have nothing to do with the engine harness (MKIV harness)
....
I think I may have screwed up in this case. I completely forgot to route a new wire from the SC300 body plug 1J1-4 which appears to be the other part of this connection to the early SC "Theft Horn". I have one new wire routed from SC body plug 1J1-9 that is waiting to go into a connector (which I may have to cut off from my original harness-- the 1997 SC300 Auto harness doesn't have it) but if the only way to complete this connection is to run a wire from IJ1-4 then I may need to do a bit of unwrapping to get it in there or just run it externally :/
Edit/Update:
I just confirmed this. Gerry, I'm not sure how I missed your note weeks/months ago but in the haste of getting all the other wires marked off the checklist I apparently did not add it to my checklist.
I have found the correct gauge wire from my spare SC harness and it looks like I at least ran the same gauge for IJ1-9. I only need to run this one wire so maybe I can keep the amount of harness unwrapping and re-taping to a minimum without removing it from the engine.
I'm kicking myself that I didn't catch this long before the harness left the work table back in December of last year.
For anyone interested, on the early SC's if you want to retain your Theft Horn function when wiring a GTE or other harness:
SC body plug IJ1-9 appears to be the "hot"/Red wire while IJ1-4 appears to be the Ground/White wire. Since there appears to be no OEM P/N on the engine bay connector on my 1993 SC300 harness I think the only way to get one is to find one used or cut yours off (if applicable) and just re-use the wire pigtails to splice into.
1997+ harnesses do not appear to have this early theft horn connector for the engine bay but early SC's appear to have it. Perhaps the connector changed in later years?
1997+ harnesses do not appear to have this early theft horn connector for the engine bay but early SC's appear to have it. Perhaps the connector changed in later years?
They do exist on all years Craig BUT the connector changed ! Having owned 14 SCs manufactured from 1992 to 2000 and still currently have 5 now , I believe I have seen every change on these cars .
They do exist on all years Craig BUT the connector changed ! Having owned 14 SCs manufactured from 1992 to 2000 and still currently have 5 now , I believe I have seen every change on these cars .
I think by now you must have your own comprehensive SC TSRM and schematic list in your head, Gerry!
Well... if you happen to have one of the very early theft horn harness connectors with some pigtails I'll buy one from you ;D But I think I'll just cut the one from my original 5-speed harness to solder in. I wanted to leave it fully intact to sell but I guess that is not a huge thing to remove. I can't tell which one it is on the now severely hacked up 1997 GE Auto harness and I don't have that version of the horn anyway.
I really have to get the thread up to date. Progress has been made but for the last couple of weeks I've only been able to work 2-4 hours on the car late at night. I need a running car again soon.
Off the top of my head:
--Pulled TT fan shroud and leaking old TT Koyo radiator. I have a new TT Koyo radiator waiting to go in. The old one from 2013 worked fine but did have pinhole leaks.
--Pulled the nearly new OEM crankshaft damper from the GE and transferred it onto the GTE. I did end up getting that Tekton wrench to put it right at 243 ft-lbs.
--Pulled the PS pump pulley. Haven't had day time to remove the pump. I'm planning to use an OEM rebuild kit on it but maybe I should get the reman that Driftmotion sells.
--Pulled most of the '93 2JZ-GE M/T Cali harness. I just have to jack up the car to undo the starter and transmission connections. The firewall port has been blocked off with painter's tape.
--Pulled all of the GE/Cali emission system and upper manifold.
--Pulled the stock GE airbox and cruise control... but it seems that I can't fit the GTE Supra cruise control unit with the SC300 ABS piping in the way. The stock Supra GTE airbox won't fit (I think?) with the stock SC300 cruise control mounted behind it. When I pull the headlights out I'll remove the last air duct part and try again. Maybe I need to buy the CARB legal (for 93-95 Supras) K&N cone filter kit instead just so that I can keep cruise control function (with the TT Auto cruise cable swapped over).
I test-fit the Supra TT charcoal canister but it turns out I need a bracket or two to hold it in place.... which of course Toyota has discontinued. I'm going to have to look for a set of those as the stock SC300/GE charcoal canister bracket won't work.
--The GTE harness is done now. I ended up using a 10ga crimp connector for the fuel pump wire and I spliced the smaller EFI relay wires at each end. Heat shrink tubed and soon to be wrapped. All that's holding it up is routing that one other wire through the harness for the theft horn. A lot of unwrapping and re-wrapping to do all over again but I want the stock function so I have to (I wish I hadn't missed your note for that wire months ago Gerry!).
I also think I should figure out how to create a factory-like relay harness to operate the auxiliary A/C electric fan before fully taping the GTE engine harness again. I do believe the A/C Fan Clutch wire has something to do with triggering at least one of the aux fan relays.
All the parts to change out the old clutch to the SouthBend are now in and set aside, along with four new bottles of Redline MT-90 fluid.
I have all my used OEM/stock MKIV IC piping set aside for cleaning with soap water. Waiting for a morning when I can do that when the sun is out.
The intercooler I will be using is an OEM SMIC unit (with metal end tanks!) from a Soarer and a 1996+ Soarer 1JZ VVT-i SMIC shroud that fits my 97+ front bumper. I do have a stock MKIV SMIC but it doesn't fit as well as the Soarer SMIC. The OEM Soarer SMIC flows roughly 100cfm less than the comparable OEM MKIV SMIC... which I hope will be okay for stock boost.
Also on the list:
--investigating whether or not I can use all or part of my factory under-body O2 sensor wiring (since I have a Cali-Spec car) or if I must create another direct wire connection harness to that O2 sensor after all.
The result today after a thorough plain soap scrub and tire degreaser scrub of the Soarer & MKIV side mount intercooler hoses and plastic tubing (most of it) and the early MKIV TT radiator shroud and SC under engine diffusers.
And removing the hood from the car prior to pulling the stock 2JZ-GE and R154. There are still a few things to do before that stage but it’s getting close.
Due to the cramped garage we hoisted the hood down using two thick ratchet straps secured to a thick wooden beam in the ceiling and wrapped it in furny pads before setting setting it aside.
we have all been been waiting for this!! Probably not as much as you have, but still. I am SO happy for the progress and am extremely excited that this is finally happening! I want to fly out to California just to hang out and watch this all come together! Can I?? Lol
great work sir. I am truly impressed by your persistence on this build. MANY people would have thrown in the towel a long time ago but you stayed with it and I’m glad. SO GLAD
Jim - Let's take a drive down South FL and help him out and play along the way ! I need to get that GE short block he has anyway ...that will fit at the back of the SC .
04-16-18, 06:57 AM
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