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I'm in the middle of one myself and willing to help out with any knowledge I can shed.
I did notice you talking about truck accessories. Pretty much, you'll be fine length wise, but not height wise. The truck intake and truck alternator will NOT clear the hood.
This allows you to run truck accessories and relocate the alternator and all use of both an f-body power steering pump and water pump, which is what you would want anyways. From there, get a different intake and no more clearance issues!!!
sounds like you did some homework. make sure to post as much info as you can. im having the opposite problem your having. i got the engine already. just need a nice clean sc300
I wish I had done more research before committing, to be honest. T56 are made of gold apparently and stock LS1/6 parts aren't cheap either.
I'm in the middle of one myself and willing to help out with any knowledge I can shed.
I did notice you talking about truck accessories. Pretty much, you'll be fine length wise, but not height wise. The truck intake and truck alternator will NOT clear the hood.
This allows you to run truck accessories and relocate the alternator and all use of both an f-body power steering pump and water pump, which is what you would want anyways. From there, get a different intake and no more clearance issues!!!
I know the shop owner personally and this is a great kit. I would call to inquire about it rather than just buying it through the site.
Yeah I knew it wouldn't clear the hood, so until I can blow the money on an LS1/6 intake swap, I probably won't run a hood lol.
Thanks for the link on the accessories brackets. Would it be more cost-effective to get that package or find used LS1 brackets? I don't know what LS1 accessories and brackets go for.
Yeah I knew it wouldn't clear the hood, so until I can blow the money on an LS1/6 intake swap, I probably won't run a hood lol.
Thanks for the link on the accessories brackets. Would it be more cost-effective to get that package or find used LS1 brackets? I don't know what LS1 accessories and brackets go for.
If you can find all the necessary F-body accessories and brackets for under 189.95, you sir have struck gold... Lol
If you can find all the necessary F-body accessories and brackets for under 189.95, you sir have struck gold... Lol
I gotcha haha. I come from the teeny weeny miata motor family so I don't know enough about the ls motors yet. But I do have a question: with that bracket kit from ebay, you have to use fbody water pump and ps pump. I wont have AC and all LS family alternators are basically the same (right?) what actually truck accessory would I be using other than the crank pulley?
Keep in mind, when you change from truck to factory fbody accessories, you need to change the crank pulley as well. That kit will require the stock truck belt tensioner and crank pulley, waterpump and power steering pump will be from an fbody, it includes spacers and bracket for everything else to align the belt properly.
Another option is to ditch the power steering, and use a low mount truck/suv alternator bracket. Such as this.
This kit says that the only fbody part I would need would be the ps pump, using truck everything else and cheaper, so I'll probably go that route. I have to keep PS. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS-Truck-Alternator-Power-Steering-Pump-Bracket-Accessory-Kit-LSX-5-3L-551569/141537796282?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D28791%26meid%3Ddc4fd37aa43d4cb2942da8d8d84a3aad%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D131400537303&rt=nc
Hey are you friends with Andrew Dimartino?
Im one of his friends from Louisville that just built a 2jzgte SC300. gonna create a build thread sometime soon for it.
Hey are you friends with Andrew Dimartino?
Im one of his friends from Louisville that just built a 2jzgte SC300. gonna create a build thread sometime soon for it.
Yep he's a good friend of mine. And this was actually his car, I just bought it from him when he pulled his 1j out. I'd be interested in your build thread, let me know!
Small update. Got the diff out, cleaned up, and ready to be welded.
Got my Sikky aluminum diff mounts in the mail which look amazing. I can't find much on how to get the diff mounts out of the subframe, if someone could shed some light on that, it would really help me out.
Also picked up some used battle version rear traction and toe links and tie rod ends off of Luv2xl on here, huge thanks!
Sikky Diff Bushings Battle Version Arms
Last edited by Oochi; 07-06-17 at 02:47 PM.
Reason: Screw Photobucket
I know it's been a real long time since I've updated this. Adult life hit me hard and fast. I got a new job, moved to a different city, bought a house, bought a truck, drifted all season with my miata, and got a dog. So it's been busy. BUT I have been making moves on this build recently and motivated to get it going.
I sold my daily and picked up a T56 and a complete LS1 with harness and ecm. I didn't plan on going LS1 but I wasn't having luck finding a truck motor at a good price and this was too good of a deal to pass up. Came from a 99 or 2000 trans am. Therefore - I won't have to worry about finding an fbody oil pan, LS1 accessories, or ls1 intake. It's all there and ready to rock.
The trans came with a remote bleeder and Hurst shifter
Also picked up a brand new aero kit for $200
But anyway, I will be spending a lot of time this winter working on the car. It would be awesome to get it running for next season but only time will tell. There is a lot to do and a lot to purchase.
If anyone has any advice or grand ideas at the stage I'm in now, feel free to shoot them to me
Last edited by Oochi; 07-06-17 at 02:51 PM.
Reason: Screw Photobucket
Time for another overdue update.
I got the motor stripped down some for test fitting and the SC really makes the LS engine look really small.
The notching for the subframe to clear the fbody oil pan
Pulled the subframe for Sikky subframe bushings, prothane control arm bushings, and Sikky diff bushings. It took a 30 ton press, soaking in liquid wrench, and a lot of fire just to get the axles out of the hubs.
And my rear subframe mounts were way too rusty to use, so I had to source others from a friend
Cleaned and prepped up stuff for paint (POR15)
Slapped some POR15 on this stuff
Most of the bushings were easy to get out, but the rear upper control arms were the absolute worst.
Got the diff welded up, all the bushings in, and got the subframe back together.
It's a shame this will never be seen. Also the driftmotion driveshaft adapter installed.
I spent way too much time on that suspension and subframe but it should hold up for a while now. I started on the front, and of course snapped a bolt that hold the bottom strut mount on the control arm on each side,. Tried drilling them out and retapping but it didn't work out so well. I think I'll just run a nut and bolt through it cause this sucks.
Many other parts have come in and I will do my best to keep this updated as I get them installed.
Last edited by Oochi; 07-06-17 at 03:14 PM.
Reason: Screw Photobucket
How hard was it to line up those rear diff mounts? Do they move at all once pressed into place? I have some to put in and am kinda afraid that I'll put them in crooked and not be able to get the diff to line up correctly haha.
How hard was it to line up those rear diff mounts? Do they move at all once pressed into place? I have some to put in and am kinda afraid that I'll put them in crooked and not be able to get the diff to line up correctly haha.
I was in the same boat. But fear not! I put a block under the diff to support it while I bolted the front diff mounts down then eye balled the lining up of the rear mounts, with a thin layer of grease around the mounts, I smacked them in with a rubber hammer a little bit until I could get the bolts to catch in the diff cover and they pressed into place as I tightened them down. I did have to knock them back out a time or two to realign them, but it isn't difficult at all.
01-21-15, 09:18 PM
