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In addition to the WOT pulls on my previous post, I finally tried a 0-60 run with my new FBO+Tune setup. The OS Giken LSD did a phenomenal job keeping traction at the rear tires when I brake-torqued and launched at 2,000 RPMs.
Using a stopwatch, it looks like I hit a 0-60 time of approximately 4.4~4.6 seconds.
I am so jealous. I have the same tires and can't take off from idle without spinning through first. I have to be going over 20mph before flooring it to avoid spinning.
I am so jealous. I have the same tires and can't take off from idle without spinning through first. I have to be going over 20mph before flooring it to avoid spinning.
It had been a long time since I launched my car from a dead stop as the last time I tried, my tires were near the 2/32 tread wear limit. This time, my PSS tires were at the 4/32-5/32 range and were able to hold traction about 50 percent of the time from my handful of attempts. If presented with a good opportunity, I may attempt a 0-100mph run to see how the car stacks up to other vehicles' published 0-100mph times.
Since you were previously on the topic of insulating heat from the engine bay, what's your opinion on leaving the engine cover on/off? Typically, I preferred leaving the engine cover off as it minimized the insulation noise and allowed me to hear the engine more when at WOT. Adversely, I think it also permits more warm air to circulate through the enclosed engine bay when idling at a stoplight which could raise the IAT higher than when the engine cover is on. I would think theoretically though that when at high speeds, having the engine cover off would allow the hot air to exit the engine bay quicker than with the engine cover on.
I've done a few sample datalogs and at the moment, I think IATs are higher when at the car is at idle and the engine cover is off compared to when the engine cover is on. On the flip-side, I think engine bay temperatures will cool down sooner with the engine cover off and when the car is at motion vice when the engine cover is on. It's not conclusive but I plan on doing some more tests in the near future to compare ambient air temperatures to IATs with the engine cover on and off. Every degree counts!
I have had my engine covers off for a while now, they don't fit with my intake. I think most of the idle heating is from just heat soak in the engine bay. You are probably right in that the covers have some side benefit that they limit airflow and keep parts of the engine bay closed off from the warmer air. I think the difference doesn't matter anyway, even without a heat shield, it didn't take long for the intake temperatures to drop once moving. I have some half assed heat shield now and the only real difference in temps vs completely insulated oem intake is in how fast the temps rise at idle.
I think the gains from the momentarily lower intake temperatures are minor compared to the gains that could be seen by moving away from the oem air box. Look at this log from tonight and consider I would have ~3-4% more at your altitude. It was like 72F outside and the intake temps got up to 78 before I got the green. The temps dropped quick enough and everything was fine outside of running really lean.
Thanks for posting your latest datalog. Which is the correct AFR column, A or B? If it's Column B, you're definitely running on the extreme lean side.
Have you noticed any knock or detonation occurring with your ignition timing advance at 32 degrees? My tune peaks at the 29.5-30 degree range so I wonder what additional gains could be had if another 2 degrees were added (and if it would be stable enough for long durations of WOT on the track).
I've had ALL of my covers removed since I installed my SRI years ago. Two-fold reason : 1) I thought it helped hold heat in the engine bay [aka, heat soak] and 2) ease of accessing anything in the engine bay without the hassle of removing those stupid pins/clips.
Those vids were beastly sounding! At what mph are you at when shifting at redline from second into third? Normally I'm at at 61-62 mph during that shift.
I might get some due to running so lean but my kclv reads 20-22 so I don't think it's too bad. I don't really go full throttle very long due to running so lean, but I bet the timing is good for longer durations.
Those vids were beastly sounding! At what mph are you at when shifting at redline from second into third? Normally I'm at at 61-62 mph during that shift.
I am addicted to how IS350 sounds with my header/midpipe/exhaust combo. It's quiet enough when I'm light on the pedal and pretty loud with no rasp when I'm at WOT. To me, the extra $$ spent on the Megan midpipes over the Invidia midpipes was worth it.
When the car shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear, I typically see the speedometer at 65-67 MPH.
Originally Posted by DickH
I might get some due to running so lean but my kclv reads 20-22 so I don't think it's too bad. I don't really go full throttle very long due to running so lean, but I bet the timing is good for longer durations.
Thanks. I've been doing some research on this IS-F e85 thread ( https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...nd-of-e85.html ) and I plan on experimenting with an e30 blend of 30% e85 and 70% Premium gas to see if it will bump up my ignition timing advance a bit more. From reading that thread, it has been successful with helping improve both KCLV and ignition timing for the FBO+Tune IS-Fs.
I got another 3IS intake pipe the non Sound Generator, and when installed. I noticed the OE rubber pipe was extremely hot inside. This is just on a 30 minute commute. I then had an extra 3IS sound generator pipe.
Ran test with a blow dryer inside the pipes. The old rubber one retains the heat like crazy. I like the way the new platic pipe on the the 3IS doesn't retain heat. Maybe you can experiment with that. Just for thoughts I did remove the screen on the throttle body gasket also. As I'm also would like to squeaze every ounce of power out on my 250 LOL.
Coming back to this pipe question.
I've tried various intake pipe setups. The Joe Z, The 3IS FSport Pipe, and now the 3IS standard pipe. Is the MAF that sensitive? Each time I use a different pipe other than the OEM set up. The car feels good for about a week then just craps out. It literally feels bogged down, and on dead stop take offs it feels like my transmission is slipping. That's how bad the bogging feels on HWY runs the same thing. The wierd thing is as soon as I put the stock pipe back on the car gets all it's grunt back. Even in Texas heat it doesn't feel as bogged down with a 3" pipe setup.
The OEM pipe is 2.75" from air box to throttle body.
To the 3IS pipes are about 3" then like 2.75" or more at the middle then 3" back to the throttle body. Like a Venturi style pipe design.
I found this link as I start to learn more what you guys probably already know.
In addition to the WOT pulls on my previous post, I finally tried a 0-60 run with my new FBO+Tune setup. The OS Giken LSD did a phenomenal job keeping traction at the rear tires when I brake-torqued and launched at 2,000 RPMs.
Using a stopwatch, it looks like I hit a 0-60 time of approximately 4.6 seconds.
I got another 3IS intake pipe the non Sound Generator, and when installed. I noticed the OE rubber pipe was extremely hot inside. This is just on a 30 minute commute. I then had an extra 3IS sound generator pipe.
Ran test with a blow dryer inside the pipes. The old rubber one retains the heat like crazy. I like the way the new platic pipe on the the 3IS doesn't retain heat. Maybe you can experiment with that. Just for thoughts I did remove the screen on the throttle body gasket also. As I'm also would like to squeaze every ounce of power out on my 250 LOL.
Mike, are 2IS 250 & 350 intake pipes the same ID in and out? The 3IS looks a bit cleaner.
Mike, are 2IS 250 & 350 intake pipes the same ID in and out? The 3IS looks a bit cleaner.
Thanks for sharing.
No they are different. Though it's the same set up 3" in, and 3" out. The difference is the throttle body side diameter. Slightly larger for the 350. If you get the fsport resonated make sure it's the one with letter "A" 350. Letter "B" is for the 250. As the standard 3IS non resonated I don't think there is one available for the 350.
I've tried various intake pipe setups. The Joe Z, The 3IS FSport Pipe, and now the 3IS standard pipe. Is the MAF that sensitive? Each time I use a different pipe other than the OEM set up. The car feels good for about a week then just craps out. It literally feels bogged down, and on dead stop take offs it feels like my transmission is slipping. That's how bad the bogging feels on HWY runs the same thing. The wierd thing is as soon as I put the stock pipe back on the car gets all it's grunt back. Even in Texas heat it doesn't feel as bogged down with a 3" pipe setup.
The OEM pipe is 2.75" from air box to throttle body.
To the 3IS pipes are about 3" then like 2.75" or more at the middle then 3" back to the throttle body. Like a Venturi style pipe design.
I found this link as I start to learn more what you guys probably already know.
Your experimentation with different OEM intake pipe setups has me interested in testing out a 3IS350 F-Sport intake pipe to see what additional intake noise is generated from both the 3IS350 F-Sport intake sound generator and the 2IS350 F-Sport Intake Box.
I'm currently using a JoeZ intake pipe which completely smoothes out the airflow over the OEM intake pipe and makes an estimated 5rwhp (according to JoeZ's dyno testing of several IS350s back in the days) and while the gains are negligible, I wonder if the 3IS350 F-Sport Intake Pipe would be a potential downgrade performance wise. Your comment on how the 3IS350 piping stays cooler could offset any potential power loss as well as the increase in piping diameter on both ends of the 3IS pipe. If I find a used 3IS350 F-Sport intake pipe for sale from a salvaged vehicle, I might experiment to see if there are any noticeable difference in MAF g/s readings compared to a JoeZ pipe with F-Sport Intake Box. If anything, I would enjoy even more acoustic sounds with the addition of the sound generator.
Originally Posted by 604GSE21
question for you guys.. what engine temperature are your cars getting during autox or track?
I haven't yet recorded any datalogs while at the autox or track but it's something I should experiment with now that I'm a bit more competent with using the OBD data recorder apps since I started messing them with a few months back. On the instrument panel, I've yet to see my coolant temperatures rise passed the halway mark when I'm at the track doing 20-minute HPDE sessions and I've yet to receive any warnings that oil temperatures are too high.
Originally Posted by 2013FSport
Did we hear it limit there??
That sure sounds good! Nice $work$!!!
Yup, the engine pinged the rev limiter slightly on 2nd gear. One of my previous videos had a lot of rev limiter bouncing which in retrospect, makes me wonder if I should have done that or not.
07-26-18, 10:57 PM
