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I'm getting a nice tax return.
With that I'm going to buy two things, Brian cower 625+ rods and arp main studs. Rods can handle some abus and I'm not even gonna pass what the rods are rated at. And they're lighter than factory. all I got left is arp head studs and a motor. Mine is toast since it's been collecting rust so I'll get a new one. Once I get those then the new block is sent out for machining to find out which rings and bearing to get. Then the motor goes in and I add more stuff, like turbo, fluid damper torque balancer, dual valve springs, possibly 264 cams, full race east mani dual fuel pumps and ffim +more.
Well this just happened!
Got my Brian crower 625+ rods, arp head studs and main studs and -10an earls weld on fitting .
All I'm waiting for in the mail now is my xs power ffim and -4an to m10×1.00 adapter for the oil feed. I also bought another 2jzge from a well maintained sc300. The owner is upgrading to a 1jz and didn't need the motor so I got it.
So I'm stoked. I was going to send only the short block to the machine shop but I figured what the heck and send everything to get done. So now I'm gonna buy Brian crower 264 cams, Brian cower single valve springs with titanium retainers, fluid damper torque damper and machine my flywheel. Then I can send the machine shop all the stuff. balance, hone, line hone, deck both head and block, valve job and tell me what bearings and rings I need. Also weld on the fitting on the oil pan, and tap the block so I can get oil to the exhaust side of the head.
Any advice?
Ps. I already have my 2jzgte lower compression pistons. Factory oem.
Got my new motor. Drove down to San bernandino to pick it up. It didn't come with all the accessories but I got the block which is all I was really wanted. Tried on my new xs power ffim intake, but realized I have to modify the dipstick to make it fit. Not a biggie. Waiting on 1600 more dollars to buy bc 264 cams, single valve springs with titanium retainer, and fluid damper torque damper. After that's bought then I take motor to machine shop.
Got some things in the mail and must admit, it feels real nice.
So I know I said i was going to send engine to machine shop after these things but I still have to buy a few more things for them to do it completely.
Timing belt, timing cover, oil pump, timing bracket and tensioner, water pump, flywheel insert and lock ring for my lightweight flywheel, Hks cam gears and gasket set. AL that equals to 1305. But once I have that then I can definitely save up for machining and then install in my car. Won't run cause I'll need new injectors and aem infinity and more but at least my engine will be in. Wish me luck guys.
I have everything I need for machine shop.
Place here in Vegas is charging 850 for hone, line hone, balance, blue print, possibly deck the head and block if it needs it, valve job, basically everything. Got my friction surface insert coming in the mail.
While I was waiting I had my sub oil pan Sand blasted and I clear coated it so it doesn't oxydize as easily, I had them weld a 10an fitting to it for the turbo drain. Also had my valve covers welded with 10an fittings, sand blasted and powder coated satin black. And they did a great job. Overall I'm happy with how things are coming along. I just know I need a ton of more work done to it and even more money. But this time Im taking my time and doing it right.
Sent my engine out to insane power to get the drilling done to it. Gonna get oil out of the exhaust side to feed the turbo. Don't want to get oil squirters. Saw this necessary as I wanted to keep the engine bay looking clean without the banjo bolt or whatever you guys use for the oil pressure sensor. Lol. I'm picky.
They also measured my cylinders to the piston that I got and, good news is I don't have to bore it out or get bigger pistons. They just need to hone it to make sure everything is good. This place is a littler more pricey but they are more experienced with 2j motors so I'm gonna stick with them. $1350 for everything. I don't have much saved up but I'm getting there more every paycheck. hopefully by the end of this year ill have enough to machine everything and get it all done. Then ill start saving up for everything else.
so i have had a lot going on since my last update. for the record, yes i still have my baby. will never get rid of her.
bad news: the first machine shop that i took my engine to, insane power, messed up my engine beyond repair. i heard good
things about them from my coworker, so i bit the bullet and took it there to get drilled across the block. after i had that done
i got the engine and didnt notice how close he had drilled it towards the front of the block. he drilled it so close that where
he initially started the drill, cracked the face of the front of the block. not to mention that where the hole was, as soon
as i tapped the hole and installed the plug, it covered the hole he drilled so there would be no oil going to the exhaust
side. well this was out of order, first he drilled, then i saw the hole and he told me he could hold on to my block till i got
enough money to have everything done, hone, line hone, balance, blue print, everything. well i started digging into his yelp and
google reviews and saw that this guy blows up more engines than he has running properly. not to mention that when something goes
wrong, he tells you to go F yourself. so i got my engine back and thats when i noticed that he drilled it horribly. luckily i had
a spare motor lying around. i scrapped the junk motor and just kept the internals.
so i got my good motor and got all the money for the new machine shop and all the parts. but that took so long to save up that
midway i bought another motor to drive my car around while my engine got ready.
bad news: i threw away my old intake because i was planning on getting my built motor running with a ffim and standalone
and the new engine didnt come with the factory intake. so here i am installing my motor with ffim and having to save up
for standalone to get it running while i save up for the rest of the stuff on my built engine. that means 2 possibly 3
tunes and a lot more time. also, i'm rewiring my harness to make up for the ffim. rewiring cant be fully done till i
have everything buttoned up on the ffim. for example, the power steering relocation i had made earlier, needs to be slightly
modified again to make the iacv fit. i'm also trying to get all the vacuum hoses to be properly routed, and intake piping
has to be fabbed up. theres a lot to do to just get this engine running stock. oh, half good news in the midst of bad news, for
ffim, i went with xs power intake manifold and ross machine racing throttle body, 82.5mm. everything is powder coated flat black.
but back to bad news, i have to run piping for ffim and powdercoat it all black. trying to run it with an intercooler so i wont
have to change much when the built engine comes along.
good news: my engine is now fully ready to be built. my machinst has line honed, bored out my cylinders to 87mm and am using
je pistons(8.5:1), brian crower 625+ h-beam rods, arp race bearings, polished crank, balanced and blue printed, arp main studs, arp head studs
head was milled .030" and block was milled. my cc's went from 2997 factory to 3067. almost 3.1 according to my machinst my
compression ratio is 8.95:1 using the 1.6mm tt head gasket. kind of low considering i used 8.5:1 pistons and 8.5:1 head gasket
but i'm also thinking its that because of how much he milled off the head and block. oh well, still happy with it. we'll see
how it runs when i get all the finishing pieces. i had a picture of it all assembled but took it apart.
more bad news: now as most of you know, i'm not using a gte block so no piston squirters will be used. what i did want though was
the gte oil feed for the turbo on the exhaust side of the block. so my machinst did the absolute most perfect job of drilling the block
on the oil galleys to get oil on the exhaust side. but the bad thing was that after he did that, (he removed all the ball bearings from
the journals prior to drilling the hole across the block,) i got the block and tapped 1 of the holes so he wouldnt have to repress the bearings
in as i didnt think it would seal. so when i told him what i was doing, he told me he wouldve just covered them with freeze plugs. so i gave
him the engine back and told him to go ahead and install the freeze plugs on the 3 journals that i didnt drill and tap. unfortunately, he
didnt cover them with freeze plugs and he also didnt hot tank the block since i found metal debris in the oil galleys from the 1 galley
i did tap. not too worried about it though to be honest, now i'm tapping all 4 journals, front and back of engine, and taking it to get
fully cleaned now. the reason this is bad news is because i spent $200 to the mashinist to assemble my engine, so now i have to disassemble
and clean then reassemble.
so after 2 years of my car being down, i'm closer to it being running but not with a better engine, just stock. lol. well soon enough i'll get all
i aim for. being patient is slowly paying off. stay tuned, will post pictures eventually.
I think at this point the name is truly started to hold its meaning. SLOW! LOL.
anyways. i dont have much. lost my job. going through a career change. moved states. now i'm stuck waiting to learn a new trade to start making money to be able to consider finishing it. <I WILL FINISH IT. just dont know how many more years.
heres pics while i explain stuff.
PICTURES ARE NOT IN ANY SPECIFIC ORDER.
heres the JE pistons. 87mm of pure beauty.
next i got my combustion chamber plus showing that all my valves are in and seated. that was a ***** to do. i was so tired of lapping them. you guys dont even understand. ps. those spark plugs are just there so nothing falls inside the threads. i will not use those.
next i got my ross machine racing 82.5mm throttle body. didnt see the need for 90mm. especially since i want to daily it.
after... xs ffim. all holes have been drilled and welded to account for all future vacuum ports including break booster. i also shaved the runners of all unecessary burs groves and casting flaws. then i went out and sent them both to get sandblasted and powdercoated courtesy of snail motorsports in las vegas nevada. <not getting paid to advertise i just love their workmanship/quality. highly recommend.
after that. i got the titan motorsports modified crank trigger wheel.
yes my engine is a ge.
yes i know it doesnt take a crank sensor from the factory. mine will now. i have the crank senor as well sitting in my pile of parts.
next up we got the shimmed buckets. i did a full conversion to shim less to allow for lighter faster drivetrain and for higher rpm limitations. that was about the most annoying job i have ever done in my life. happy its done though. measuring to remove cam to remeasure to remove camshaft and on and on. let me tell you how harder it was to rotate cams when theyre bigger than factory. lol. hard to turn cams. i cant imagine 272. wish i wouldve gotten those instead. oh well. next time.
picture number something: i got here the picture of how i was able to lap the valves myseld. truly i recommend just spending the money. if theres a problem theyll fix it. not you.thats the best part in my opinion.
anyways i'm getting sleepy so i'll finish ;this tomorrow or edit it. night.
i'm back.
PICTURE NUMBER 8:
modified crank trigger wheel again.
PICTURE NUMBER 9:
this is showing that i had the egr port welded shut as well as the heater hose tube. seeing as i do not have a heater core anymore i figured weld it shut to make it look cleaner than a rubber cap and worm clamp.
PICTURE 10:
yes i got all new toyota freeze plugs. put them all in myself. hope to god they dont ever leak.
PICTURE 11:
another random 2jz picture.
PICTURE 12:
got my 2JZGE toyota brand water pump and bracket in with a PHR modified oil pump. had to buy the 2 cylinder head guides.
got the crank seal installed with the crank gear. also went and bought a new crank pulley bolt.
obviously pistons, rods and crank are all installed.
PICTURE 13:
to this day i still havent installed my lower oil pan. been sitting next to it ready for me to clean it for the past few months. lol.
just another 2j pic with stuffy stuff.
PICTURE 14:
sub oil pan installed with out crank gear and water pump. like i said, no order to these photos. just added them all in one go.
PICTURE 15:
so we already saw gloss powdercoated valve covers. had my cam gears sand blasted and powdercoated flat black.
grinded the vacuum hose behind the cam gear plate and painted that flat black with exhaust spray paint but as you can tell, they're all different
shades of black. i kind of low key like it.
valve covers are not installed, just placed over engine. need to get valve cover gaskets from toyota still.
PICTURE 16:
got the timing belt on but need to buy toyota tensioner pulley and tensioner.
everything lined up.
PICTURE 17:
that is the hole that i drilled myself and threaded to have oil come out for the turbo feed. 4an fitting hand tight till rest of engine is done.
also installed an engine block coolant drain that i found lying around with the same thread.
PICTURE 18:
heres another close up of valve covers and cam gears sand blasted. mediocre quality.
PICTURE 19:
i need to get the tube off my spare engine in my car that connects to the throttle body and the other side of the heater core so i can weld it shut.
its the one that gets bolted to the back of the water pump bracket. wont be needing that.
also had to buy the steel pipe that goes in between the connector bracket and the water pump bracket. its a small cylinder tube that has an o-ring
on each side. i think its personally a ****ty design when they could've just used bolts for both sides. that's just my opinion. but it does work so...
PICTURE 20:
another picture of timing and gears.
PICTURE 21:
hey look. it's my operating table. had to get all the valves in with brian crower springs and titanium retainer. that was the exact opposite of fun. like
i said earlier. recommend someone else doing it but its a great learning experience. i've done it before as a mechanic. but still sucks. lol.
PICTURE 22:
last picture. this is where my machinst drilled the hole to get oil from the intake side to the exhaust side. my last machinst drilled it too far forward that
he cracked the block and had a potential to leak so i just junked the block. tried to take it to a welding shop but they said it was to risky. especially
since it has to be a perfectly flat surface considering the oil pump sits there.
but now i'm adding one more picture of arp main studs with ACL race bearings. something about this photo.
so my last post was just finishing up on describing the pictures. this is just me giving some more background information as to where i'm at and what i've
done, bought, need to buy <to long of a list so i'll shorten it. lol. and just other stuff.
1st off. my engine was fully machined but not hot tanked like i paid for. not a big deal. he still did an amazing job. i had to fully disassemble everything, not
only to clean out the galley's, but because i sent my engine and rings to get wpc treated.
now for those of you that don't know, i highly recommend looking into what wpc is and how it works. i cant say i know about it cause i've never done it with an
engine running, but the demonstration looks amazing. don't get me wrong i understand snake oil when i see it but... i wanted it. lol. so i'll post the youtube
links at the bottom. that cost me an extra $660. i did the cylinders, each was 100, and the top two compression rings. he only does the part of the ring that slides
against the cylinder. 5 dollars per ring. i messaged the owner of the company before and he said its better for cylinders on boosted engines because it does
a better job of preventing blow-by. but it does take a lot longer to break in the rings so we'll see.
2nd. my xs front facing intake manifold has to be modified and powder coated again. one of the vacuum ports needs to be threaded for the map sensor i got.
i really dont want a hose going to it just to adapt it to thread. it defeats the purpose of me cleaning my engine bay. also have to re-powder it because they did
not paint the flange where the throttle body bolts up to so it goes from flat black to sandblasted gray aluminum. not to bad of a problem id say.
3rd: i have fully paid for and received my AEM INFINITY 506 ECU!!!!! 2200$ later. i got it with the harness from ecu to vehicle harness. so its just plug it in and
tune it with the factory engine i have sitting in it. just need to actually bolt it all together and finish that mod. lol. but it also came with boost control solenoid and
sensor, connector for wideband sensor. 1 or 2 i cant remember right now. coolant temp sensor, guessing factory wont work anymore so that one i'll use an
adapter for if i need to. thats one of the most expensive pieces of my build and i got it so i'm super stoked. so ready to get it running but i need a job. lmao
so i told you guys i bought that spare engine and had to modify it for ffim and need intercooler setup with piping and all. i'm headed in that direction but i need
more and more parts when i look at it.
for example: i got rid of my coil and changed it to an msd blaster coil just because mine went out and wanted it tucked away. so i want to add all the wires for
future IGN1A coils but will need to keep the spark plug wires installed for when i get this standalone tuned to 1 coil.
plus... i want to modify the alternator cable that goes from the engine bay to the trunk because my battery is in the trunk. it is currently going through the firewall
where the ecu wires are so i want to move it to the fender and inside the frame for a skinnier harness that i can have modified and milspec'd. le-sigh. milspec
harness is gonna kill me on the cost. i want the quick disconnect firewall connector. they just look so gorgeous. what else.
i don't know if you guys noticed but all sealants, seals, and parts that are not to make it faster, are from toyota. cam seals, crank seal, timing belt, valve stem seals,
everything is factory. even the bolts i lost are being bought or replaced by that of toyota. not just ones that fit. i said the engine block coolant drain was laying around
but that was at a toyota dealership, (where i worked at,) too.
i can't think of much else besides the list of what i want/need
borg warner s400 twin scroll ball bearing. idk what a/r size yet.
twin scroll exhaust manifold with twin wastegates.
750 injectors
fsr tune
twin bosch 044 fuel pumps with upgraded fuel system. all an.
fuel rail.
ocd billet timing cover
tensioner (timing and serpentine)
my r154 will be used on a stock clutch until i blow it or have enough to save up for a tremec t56.
also want to upgrade to limited slip differential with 1 piece driveshaft and solid diff bushings but thats obviously after
the engine is running. but, till next time clublexus.
02-07-16, 06:23 PM
