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Whats up CL, I started a build thread quite a while ago that never got anywhere, so here is round 2.
To make things as short as possible, Ill just get right down to it. I picked up a pristine '93 5 Speed almost 3 years ago and it has been by daily driver up until 4th of July weekend this year. Before that I was a hard core s-chassis fan, and went through several different engine setups including a turbo KA24DE, 1JZ, and S14 SR20DET. After getting pretty comfortable with the s-chassis I felt the need to step things up a notch and go for some bigger power. And alas, I am here.
Ive got about 90% of all the parts for the build, and should be picking up the last bits as I put the car back together. Hoping to have it ready to break in on the dyno around thanksgiving. I should have the engine back in my possession in the next 2-3 weeks at which point ill post up a bunch more pictures as progess continues.
Engine:
Manley H-Tuff rods
Manley Platinum Series 8.5:1 Pistons (.020 over)
ACL race bearings
ARP mains
WebCams 440/441 grind camshafts (nearly identical to the BC 272's cam profile)
BC stainless springs/retainers
Fidanza cam gears
ARP headstuds w/oem washers
3-angle valve job
OEM GTE Headgasket
PHR oil filter relocaton
Turbo setup:
BW S366 .91 A/R
CX Racing equal length 11ga manifold
Tial 44 wg
Tial Q bov
XS power FFIM *will be using a remotely mounted 302 Mustang IACV*
RMR throttle body
Fuel:
2x DW 200 fuel pumps (255lph each) in-tank *may upgrade to 2x 320 lph*
-8 feed, -6 return to AEM fuel press reg (all lines XRP w/inline -8 fuel filter)
DW 1000cc injectors *may upgrade depending on how it does on the dyno*
Electronics:
AEM 30-6101 V2 EMS
AEM fail safe wideband
AEM serial data gauge
3.5 Bar map
EGT probe
IAT sensor
Retaining stock dizzy for cam/crank signals
GM D585 Coilpacks
Drivetrain:
Fully built R154
OS Giken TS2BD twin disc clutch/movement alteration kit
Tomei Trax 2-way LSD
PHR solid engine mounts
And that pretty much wraps up what ive got so far. On to the pics of the teardown!
Oh yeah, my goal for the car is to make high 600's on 93 octane, and hopefully reach close to 800 on VP Q16, I know Im right at the limit of what the R154 can hold, and will stop once we hit 650-ish wtq... im really counting on the cams to keep the tq numbers lower so I can hopefully ride out this trans for a while. The long-block no doubt is good for quad digits...maybe one day get it there.
The engine had solid compression (155-160psi cold) before the teardown @ 156K miles.
Also, Ive got my W58 for sale w/ the factory flywheel and clutch that still has plenty of meat left on it. I know Im lacking in the post count area, but my good friend Joey AKA TitanGTS here on CL said he would vouch for me?
Im located in Charlotte, NC btw.
Yes sir, I do vouch for Dan! Personally, I can't wait to see the end product! I will stress to him how important videos are, as in comparison to pictures
This looks like its going to be interesting. Good luck man. Btw how much are you looking to get for the w58? Hopefully all of us can get together before the winter. Any big meets coming up down there?
The wheels are Cosmis MR-7 18x10+25 no spacer with 245/40/18. this setup is gonna change once the engine is in and running though, a 245 aint gonna cut it traction wise.
There are a few big car meets coming up in CLT for those wondering, I think tuner revolution or something like that is going down in winston-salem this weekend or next? not sure. the Street Wise Drift amateur series is also based here in Charlotte and they have an event/car show here on sept. 27th. I havent been to many shows lately considering the car is down and my daily is a 98 volvo v70 wagon haha.
As for the w58 im pretty firm at $400 for the trans, clutch, and flywheel. Ive got some pics of the clutch and flywheel wear too for any interested parties. Id be willing to deliver it up to 100 miles for an extra 40 bucks (cost of gas)
Everything looks great and should be a fun setup! Only thing I would recommend doing is upgrade those shift forks while the trans is out! You don't want those things to fail. They are known to be week as you probably already know. do it while its out of the car well worth the effort!
Good luck on your build! If you get a chance check mine out, might help you along the way.
Everything looks great and should be a fun setup! Only thing I would recommend doing is upgrade those shift forks while the trans is out! You don't want those things to fail. They are known to be week as you probably already know. do it while its out of the car well worth the effort!
Good luck on your build! If you get a chance check mine out, might help you along the way.
Ive been following your thread for quite some time! Id be lying if I didnt say that your build has influenced the way ive planned for my own. Im already on the fence about the shift forks, and ill honestly probably end up doing the 1-2 and 2-3 before I drop everything in, just gotta come up with a few more fun coupons haha.
I picked the finished block and head up on thursday, took quite a bit longer than expected but overall Im happy with the turn out of the bottom end, clearances were right on point. I ended up finding an issue with the head however... a piece of trash got stuck in the cam journal on #3 intake side, the guy who did my head work didnt catch it, torqued the cam down and well....****ed up my intake cam journal pretty damn bad. I took it back today and they said theyd take care of it, even if it meant sourcing a new intake cam and sending it off to Web Cams to have it ground for me. All Im out is the time I guess Ill start putting together what I can on the block while the head is out getting fixed.
Heres a couple pictures of the bottom end, and the Manley H-Tuff rod compared to a stock unit... keep in mind the Manley rod is approx. 30 grams lighter. It boggles me why people in the 2jz world don't use more of their products. Pricing is competitive, and its made in the USA???
I do have a question for the engine savvy guys out there:
I have both a Tomei 2mm and the OEM 1.6mm headgaskets, the piston compression is 8.5:1 (GTE specs). Considering im running a GE engine, should I still expect my compression ratio to be on point with the GTE (assuming I run the OE head gasket) or would I be better off with the Tomei? Im not too sure what the head differences between the GE and GTE are in terms of inside the combustion chamber affecting compression ratio.
Also, we experimented a little bit with tapping the block on the exhaust side for a turbo oil feed, but upon looking at the oil passages realized that it would be recieving un-filtered oil. What are the rest of you NA-T guys doing for oil-feeds besides tapping the filter housing bolt and running that god awfully long oil feed line?
nice build you have going there .. personally since you are already using gte style 9:1 pistons , i would use a oem ge metal headgasket which should yield around 9:6 c/r .. much much better off boost response , quicker spool and making your power on less boost .. you are on a aem , correctly tuned c/r in this arena should not be a concern ..
also , use the stronger newer style arp hardware for the headstuds for better clamping
i have the same 9:1 pistons with upgraded wrist pins ,and high tensile fully stainless steel total seal rings ..
also on a ge block its more than just tapping the feed port to get oil , the entire gally leading to the port itself needs to be tapped .. if my memory serves me correctly , its one of the metal ***** behind the oil pump needs to be removed and the galley opened up to rec the oil flow
also on a ge block its more than just tapping the feed port to get oil , the entire gally leading to the port itself needs to be tapped .. if my memory serves me correctly , its one of the metal ***** behind the oil pump needs to be removed and the galley opened up to rec the oil flow
good information, thanks. Im going to be picking up a vvt-i 2jzge before too long from a friend, ill experiment more with the oil feed on that block. Mine is already assembeled and pretty much ready to be put back together once I get the head back I dont really want to tear into this block anymore than I already have haha.
I did get the newer ARP headstuds with the correctly sized washers, I remember reading some time ago that the old 2JZ headstud kit came with a smaller diameter washer than the OEM one and some people ran into issues with head lift at high boost levels. Im assuming ARP has since fixed the issue considering my kit came with the correctly sized washers.
Should have another big update post in the next week or so as the engine goes back together.
nice build man, i wouldnt run the 7m cps. me and my friend had so much trouble with it on our builds. we just ran the stock dizzy with a cap and rotor removed and had a cover machined to fit it to clean it up. isk if u can run a oem head gasket with over sized pistons, my friend had to run a 87mm head gasket cause he went .20 over as well. look on my build and u can see the cover i had made for the dizzy
08-20-14, 01:42 PM
Big Power on a Budget: Dan's NA-T SC
I guess Ill start putting together what I can on the block while the head is out getting fixed. 
