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Swapped out the bad Torsen with 3.76 gears for a Torsen with 4.08 last night. It is raining so I have not driven it yet. I hope the gears are not too short. If they are, I will have to get the 3.76 rebuilt and put it back in.
I drive in NYC so "fast" just does not happen often, but "quick" is needed every day. I really hope I don't hate it.. |
I have stock gearing on my SC300....its isnt that bad at all.....on the highway at 70mph the rpms are up at 3500 rpm which isnt ideal....
I plan on swapping to either auto tt w/ 3.76 or jdm 6spd w/ 3.26 |
So! Jason tuned my car on the last few HOT AS HELL days this year. It was like 90's that week. The night he delivered the car to me was the start of dramatically cooler weather. Never having had a boosted car, I got used to the car as it was. It would start to boost really nicely around 4 grand and pull nicely and progressively harder then around 5.5 grand or so, I would hit boost cut and shudder the whole car if I didn't back off before boost cut. I thought, wow, the fun is pretty short, oh well, time to learn how to get as much of that boost stuff as possible so I spent two months learning to stay between 4 and 5500 RPM as often as possible. I thought that was it, and LOVED it regardless of the duration.......
And them...... I took the car back up to Fall River Ma. to get the diff swapped out and tune tweaked, and he set the boost controller up the way it is supposed to be set up. The car was set WAY too high for the cooler weather. I also got a super free flowing exhaust in the interim. The turbo was really happy and the settings were killing all the fun. All the love was hiding behind boost cut. Pulling this car to redline is just worlds apart from what it was before. Unfortunately, I thought of filming after the CRAZY stuff. Pictured Is the first (fairly mild) pull after he got the settings dialed in for the exhaust and the colder weather.. This is before the diff swap.... It's WAYYYYYYYY better with the new diff and I actually don't mind the 4.08 vs the 3.76 so far. In some ways. I love it! |
Originally Posted by CatManD3W
(Post 9214683)
I have stock gearing on my SC300....its isnt that bad at all.....on the highway at 70mph the rpms are up at 3500 rpm which isnt ideal....
I plan on swapping to either auto tt w/ 3.76 or jdm 6spd w/ 3.26 |
SG, she sounds pretty good fam! I'm still amazed to how you were able to find such a low mileage SC. That thing is going to last a long time!
steve |
Originally Posted by lilSCsteve
(Post 9216562)
SG, she sounds pretty good fam! I'm still amazed to how you were able to find such a low mileage SC. That thing is going to last a long time!
steve Just got lucky brother! Get home soon! T |
I actually had my first problem today. It shut off in traffic, but we got it going. I think perhaps my buddy kicked the wiring by the ECU (maybe not) and the EFI fuse blew. I checked the wiring and replaced the fuse.
The car started but it was running really lean on idle and trying to shut off. I could only keep it going with gas at stoplights. the AFR's looked good when in motion but the idle was dropping low enough to shut off if I didn't keep the RPM's up. The car would also get really lean (16/17 AFR) every time I let it idle. It was sort of "Stoichish" to 12.5 or so when driving in traffic. Leading up to this i think I saw the precursor to this issue. After some time in NYC traffic generally the car will start to idle really rich and slightly strangely unless I give it gas or start driving it. It makes some sort of a slight diesel sound with an arrhythmia to the pulse of the motor, idles a bit lower and ever so slightly out of rhythm. If i drive it, all seems good, but when at lights or park, It will do that rich/diesel thing. A few times I reset the ECU and it settled down. A few times i shut the car off and restarted it, It seemed to settle in OK again. It seems great when blasting it, AFR's all in shape sounding great but idle occasionally gets weird after an hour or two in traffic. Temps are rock solid 24/7 and all else seemed fine. I think since the passenger seat is rarely used and it was used today, I am fairly confident it was the feet shorting something out. The wires were soldered but some never got taped so i taped them. The puzzling thing was that the super lean, low idle, diesely, arhythmic thing. Driving usually gets me out of this but today the idle stayed too low and it was a chore to get it home. At all other times, It behaves as expected. Once it gets in this mode, it is usually near the end of errand runs in the city and I put it in the garage and it's fine in the morning. Today the issue persisted. So basically, outside of the shut off/fuse thing: The car sometimes idles really rich and makes a slight diesel sound after running in traffic for an hour or more. Today it did the same thing, but it was really lean instead. Gets right if I drive it. Idle being lean and way low is the only issue today. The ECU is really clean and proactively rebuilt at Tannin before installation months ago. I think I have a spare ECU in the trunk, Ill try that tomorrow. It's not rebuilt and has never been installed. Any ideas what I can do to fix this? (cross posted in TT ECU thread) |
Soldered wires should be covered in heat shrink......not electrical tape.....
Who left the wires exposed with just solder on them...? Did you not reinstall the ECU cover? |
Originally Posted by CatManD3W
(Post 9217414)
Soldered wires should be covered in heat shrink......not electrical tape.....
Who left the wires exposed with just solder on them...? Did you not reinstall the ECU cover? |
I haven't had the ecu cover on in years, but everything is heatshrinked or taped up really well.
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I dont run the cover on mine....but I did put some extra foam in between the ECU and the carpet....in the kickplate area where people would have their feet...
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yeah people always have their foot right there, I dont usually have passengers in mine but its not the best spot for an ecu especially if all your wires are loose. it definitely pays to secure everything up so you dont have any issues from people sitting there. I might put my cover back on now that I have everything sorted out, although the map ecu wont fit under there I usually mount it higher up where no feet will touch it. My AFR's are still perfect I dunno why everyone has trouble with the mod, maybe it was a wire that came loose or is touching something it shouldn't SG, or try the safc adjustments HiPSI can help he has basically the same setup and a safc. first write down your original numbers or take a picture, then try the new ones. always reset the battery inbetween.
also dont make the high low numbers different like it is in your video, someone was trying real hard to tune this ecu on yours but there is no tuning to be done, you just do 1 value adjustment for injectors and the ecu will sort the rest out after a few drives, when you start making changes for it then it has a hard time adjusting and wierd stuff happens after a few ecu cycles. I didn't make it that way just learnt how to deal with it. one of the signs that the safc is messing with the ecu is if you reset the ecu and it works again for a while, then it does the same bad thing. that means the "tune" is too far off. when you reset it, and then it stays fine all the time, you know you are close to where you should be. in short, choose 1 correction number and enter it for high and low all across the rpm ranges. then reset ecu, then give ecu a chance to learn and after a few drives it'll surprise you that it irons out all the small issues itself from there. |
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3
(Post 9217639)
yeah people always have their foot right there, I dont usually have passengers in mine but its not the best spot for an ecu especially if all your wires are loose. it definitely pays to secure everything up so you dont have any issues from people sitting there. I might put my cover back on now that I have everything sorted out, although the map ecu wont fit under there I usually mount it higher up where no feet will touch it. My AFR's are still perfect I dunno why everyone has trouble with the mod, maybe it was a wire that came loose or is touching something it shouldn't SG, or try the safc adjustments HiPSI can help he has basically the same setup and a safc. first write down your original numbers or take a picture, then try the new ones. always reset the battery inbetween.
also dont make the high low numbers different like it is in your video, someone was trying real hard to tune this ecu on yours but there is no tuning to be done, you just do 1 value adjustment for injectors and the ecu will sort the rest out after a few drives, when you start making changes for it then it has a hard time adjusting and wierd stuff happens after a few ecu cycles. I didn't make it that way just learnt how to deal with it. one of the signs that the safc is messing with the ecu is if you reset the ecu and it works again for a while, then it does the same bad thing. that means the "tune" is too far off. when you reset it, and then it stays fine all the time, you know you are close to where you should be. in short, choose 1 correction number and enter it for high and low all across the rpm ranges. then reset ecu, then give ecu a chance to learn and after a few drives it'll surprise you that it irons out all the small issues itself from there. Great news! The car was totally normal today. Maybe after resetting the ECU (after the fuse incident) I started the car and just drove home. It ran poorly but maybe the ECU sometimes need multiple starts to average out what it wants to settle on. I never shut it down until I got it home. Worked great today! Mod is fine Ali. We just break **** sometimes. That wire short probably freaked the ECU out and it needed a few wake/sleep cycles to get it together. :thumb: BUUUTTTTT! I had to snap these pictures for you today in Manhattan! I've got to get one of them! LC or LX. |
Ahh very nice 80 series, the last of the solid axles. My wife doesn't like how it looks or I would have had one a long time ago and slapped a turbo on that inline 6 motor =)
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The car is an absolute blast to drive. I am starting to really trust and understand the car. Most times when the AFR's look different at idle, it straightens right out when I drive it.
The only thing I notice now is after running the car for a couple hours, the idle gets slightly rough and rich (or lean occasionally). I sometimes shut it off and back on at a light and it fixes itself. Just driving it, it generally works itself out. If I park it for a few minutes and start it back up warm, the idle may still be a bit "off". When it is "off", the rhythm of the car is also a bit off and usually rich but sometimes lean. During these times, I also hear a mild "diesel" sound to the motor occasionally as idle drops and fluctuates. There is a mild "surging" of idle a few hundred RPM's, every second or so in a constant pulse. This is very minor/mild but I am trying to understand and respond to all clues given to me by the car. I am going to send my spare Aristo ECU to Driftmotion to rebuild it. I get the feeling although the caps were replaced, my current ECU may be slightly bad. It will be informative to be able to swap them out when troubleshooting. I may even look for a 6 speed JDM version as a third. It runs perfectly at all times except when the idle gets a bit strange after a few hours running it in NYC traffic. Temps are rock solid at all times. On boost AFR's are always consistent. |
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