SC530 Drift Build (LSx/T56 Swapped SC300) *Picture Dump*
06-28-14, 04:55 PM
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
**START UP VIDEO ON PAGE 5** SC530 Drift Build (LSx/T56 Swapped SC300) *Picture Dump*
Hi Everyone,
About 4 years ago I bought my first SC which was completely bone stock, original 5 speed, and in immaculate condition. It was my daily and occasional drift car. I came from the 240 scene and completely fell in love with this chassis. Unfortunately, our relationship was cut short due to someone rear ending me.
The collision wasn't horrible, and probably could've been straightened out, however, the rear frame rails were kinked and I didn't want anything to do with the car after that.
Once I sold the car I decided to go back into an S-chassis. I picked up a ’97 completely bone stock automatic 240SX. That didn’t last long though. After two years it was a done project for the most part. LSx/T56 swapped with A/C. So I decided to end up selling it.
Got rid of the S14 and finally got my dream car; MKIV Supra. Nothing too special about it though. Currently NA, 5 speed, lowered, wheels, and brakes. This will be a long term project, so it won’t be going under the knife anytime soon…I think...
Since the Supra isn’t being touched for the moment, I decided to build a purpose built drift car. I loved the SC-chassis and LOVED the LS/T56 combo, so that’s what I decided to build…
I picked up the car as a shell with coils and Supra TT polished wheels. Towed it home and began ordering parts…
Started the interior tear down…
Ordered some wheels and drift spares…
2002 LM7 5.3L Truck engine with all the accessories on it
Rebuilt T56 with all the upgrades such as Viper 2nd gear, metal shift fork pads, carbon Kevlar synchros, billet shift forks, etc…
The I acquired some other drift goodies…
Modified knuckles by Matt Sevcov
Kazama front big sway bar
Axles
K-sport drift brake
About 4 years ago I bought my first SC which was completely bone stock, original 5 speed, and in immaculate condition. It was my daily and occasional drift car. I came from the 240 scene and completely fell in love with this chassis. Unfortunately, our relationship was cut short due to someone rear ending me.
The collision wasn't horrible, and probably could've been straightened out, however, the rear frame rails were kinked and I didn't want anything to do with the car after that.
Once I sold the car I decided to go back into an S-chassis. I picked up a ’97 completely bone stock automatic 240SX. That didn’t last long though. After two years it was a done project for the most part. LSx/T56 swapped with A/C. So I decided to end up selling it.
Got rid of the S14 and finally got my dream car; MKIV Supra. Nothing too special about it though. Currently NA, 5 speed, lowered, wheels, and brakes. This will be a long term project, so it won’t be going under the knife anytime soon…I think...
Since the Supra isn’t being touched for the moment, I decided to build a purpose built drift car. I loved the SC-chassis and LOVED the LS/T56 combo, so that’s what I decided to build…
I picked up the car as a shell with coils and Supra TT polished wheels. Towed it home and began ordering parts…
Started the interior tear down…
Ordered some wheels and drift spares…
2002 LM7 5.3L Truck engine with all the accessories on it
Rebuilt T56 with all the upgrades such as Viper 2nd gear, metal shift fork pads, carbon Kevlar synchros, billet shift forks, etc…
The I acquired some other drift goodies…
Modified knuckles by Matt Sevcov
Kazama front big sway bar
Axles
K-sport drift brake
Last edited by outlaw0209; 03-08-16 at 11:14 PM.
06-28-14, 04:56 PM
#2
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Then it was time to take the car over to Fueled Racing to get a mount kit made for the car. My car is actually the guinea pig for this kit and should be available for the retail market “soon”. Will be just like the S-chassis kit (motor mounts, tranny mount, long tube headers, oil pan, oil filter relocation, driveshaft, power steering lines, and clutch line). Currently the kit has been designed, it’s just a matter of waiting for the final production pieces.
Looks like there might be clearance issues for the truck accessories, but this is a drift car, minimal ****s are being given
Then it was off to a local shop, 18Fab, to get a cage, bash bars, and front end work done…
And this is where it ends…for now. The cage should be finished up this weekend, then front end work will commence.
As far as the Fueled Racing Kit goes, the final production pieces are still being waited on. Hopefully it won’t be more than a couple of weeks.
The car is in the final stretch now and it shouldn’t be more than 2-3 months from now that it’ll be track worthy. I’ll keep the build updated and will have a lot more pictures to come
Hope you enjoyed it so far! Feel free to follow me on Instagram @joelrascon or #SC530
Thanks,
-Joel
Looks like there might be clearance issues for the truck accessories, but this is a drift car, minimal ****s are being given
Then it was off to a local shop, 18Fab, to get a cage, bash bars, and front end work done…
And this is where it ends…for now. The cage should be finished up this weekend, then front end work will commence.
As far as the Fueled Racing Kit goes, the final production pieces are still being waited on. Hopefully it won’t be more than a couple of weeks.
The car is in the final stretch now and it shouldn’t be more than 2-3 months from now that it’ll be track worthy. I’ll keep the build updated and will have a lot more pictures to come
Hope you enjoyed it so far! Feel free to follow me on Instagram @joelrascon or #SC530
Thanks,
-Joel
06-29-14, 01:52 PM
#6
Pole Position
Thread Starter
As far as a diff goes, I bought a SC300 auto diff which has 4.27 gearing and getting it welded. Should be a decent match to the T56 for drifting. Should be able to do 4th gear entries and keep it in 3rd gear most of the time, which is preferable because I'll be staying away from 2nd gear, which is one of the T56 weaknesses.
07-01-14, 06:28 PM
#7
As far as a diff goes, I bought a SC300 auto diff which has 4.27 gearing and getting it welded. Should be a decent match to the T56 for drifting. Should be able to do 4th gear entries and keep it in 3rd gear most of the time, which is preferable because I'll be staying away from 2nd gear, which is one of the T56 weaknesses.
Yes the 4.27 is a tire spinning monster with the T56, I would bust traction in 3rd and 4th rolling at speed on the right surface with a 295/35.
Im currently debating different gears, but I drag my SC with the LS1. The 4.27 auto diff is putting me high 12's with traps around 108mph going into 5th, and I know it should be a higher trap mid way into 4th. But time will tell.
Im looking forward to watching your build progress some more.
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01-05-15, 01:35 AM
#8
Pole Position
Thread Starter
MAJOR UPDATE!!!
*In advance, I apologize about the lack of and quality of pictures. I've been so ecstatic just working on this thing that I haven't taken the time to take good pics, but I will soon*
I have FINALLY been given the green light from Todd at Fueled to pick up my car! This means I can finally move forward with the engine and chassis build while we still wait for the final production pieces of the kit to be made and finalized for mass producing.
While I was waiting for the car, I also picked up a trailer! One of the biggest missing pieces to the puzzle. 22ft Carson with a dove tail and electric brakes. Thanks again Billy!!!
Immediately, put it to good use and towed the car home.
Right away as well, had to take the engine out for a major overhaul.
Then tucked it away in the corner for the time being.
Next was to give a really good cleaning to the engine bay and further strip it down.
Finally, on to the engine tear down. The initial plan was to run the 5.3 in it's stock form just to get it to the track, butttttttt, I changed my mind and I'm glad I did.
Everything inside was full of GUNK!
Further tear down.
And this is as of this weekend. Got everything dropped off at the machine shop. Still waiting on what the machine guy says needs to be done, but essentially this is going to be the list...
HOT TANK EVERYTHING
Resize the rods and put oversized bearings for the ARP rod bolts
New piston rings
New main bearings
New cam journal bearings
Maybe cut the heads a tad bit for higher compression
GM Performance ASA cam
LS6 beehive springs
LS7 lifters
This weekend I also bought basically EVERYTHING I need to put this motor back together (minus the bearings until I hear back from the machine shop).
I've also created a spreadsheet to keep track of this build. So far my budget is $15K and I'm within budget so far and I think I can finish the car within that margin. I have posted my spreadsheet for reference as it might help some new guys on budgeting a build.
I also should be getting the motor back from the machine shop next weekend and hopefully I'll hear from Fueled racing soon on when the whole kit will be complete and ready for pick up as well.
*In advance, I apologize about the lack of and quality of pictures. I've been so ecstatic just working on this thing that I haven't taken the time to take good pics, but I will soon*
I have FINALLY been given the green light from Todd at Fueled to pick up my car! This means I can finally move forward with the engine and chassis build while we still wait for the final production pieces of the kit to be made and finalized for mass producing.
While I was waiting for the car, I also picked up a trailer! One of the biggest missing pieces to the puzzle. 22ft Carson with a dove tail and electric brakes. Thanks again Billy!!!
Immediately, put it to good use and towed the car home.
Right away as well, had to take the engine out for a major overhaul.
Then tucked it away in the corner for the time being.
Next was to give a really good cleaning to the engine bay and further strip it down.
Finally, on to the engine tear down. The initial plan was to run the 5.3 in it's stock form just to get it to the track, butttttttt, I changed my mind and I'm glad I did.
Everything inside was full of GUNK!
Further tear down.
And this is as of this weekend. Got everything dropped off at the machine shop. Still waiting on what the machine guy says needs to be done, but essentially this is going to be the list...
HOT TANK EVERYTHING
Resize the rods and put oversized bearings for the ARP rod bolts
New piston rings
New main bearings
New cam journal bearings
Maybe cut the heads a tad bit for higher compression
GM Performance ASA cam
LS6 beehive springs
LS7 lifters
This weekend I also bought basically EVERYTHING I need to put this motor back together (minus the bearings until I hear back from the machine shop).
I've also created a spreadsheet to keep track of this build. So far my budget is $15K and I'm within budget so far and I think I can finish the car within that margin. I have posted my spreadsheet for reference as it might help some new guys on budgeting a build.
I also should be getting the motor back from the machine shop next weekend and hopefully I'll hear from Fueled racing soon on when the whole kit will be complete and ready for pick up as well.
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t2d2 (12-27-16)
01-10-15, 11:23 AM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Glad I found this thread! We appear to be doing similar builds and for the same reason. I do have some questions for you as I am trying to work them out myself:
What are you doing about ABS delete and your hydro brake lines and mounting location?
Will you be using an F body oil pan and driveshaft with the adapter?
How did you fill you ABS sensor holes in your knuckles?
Will you be trying to use the stock SC300 clutch master? (I have been told it won't be strong enough)
What are you doing about ABS delete and your hydro brake lines and mounting location?
Will you be using an F body oil pan and driveshaft with the adapter?
How did you fill you ABS sensor holes in your knuckles?
Will you be trying to use the stock SC300 clutch master? (I have been told it won't be strong enough)
01-15-15, 02:58 AM
#12
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Glad I found this thread! We appear to be doing similar builds and for the same reason. I do have some questions for you as I am trying to work them out myself:
What are you doing about ABS delete and your hydro brake lines and mounting location?
Will you be using an F body oil pan and driveshaft with the adapter?
How did you fill you ABS sensor holes in your knuckles?
Will you be trying to use the stock SC300 clutch master? (I have been told it won't be strong enough)
What are you doing about ABS delete and your hydro brake lines and mounting location?
Will you be using an F body oil pan and driveshaft with the adapter?
How did you fill you ABS sensor holes in your knuckles?
Will you be trying to use the stock SC300 clutch master? (I have been told it won't be strong enough)
For the ABS delete, check out Suspicious Garage. Either his website or facebook. Just contact Efrain, the owner, and he makes the ABS deletion lines with all the proper fittings.
As far as the e-brake, I'm currently working on a dual caliper set up, so if that goes through, then the e-brake will independently operate the second set of rear calipers. However, if it doesn't happen, then I'll just tie in the e-brake with the existing rear line. Not my preferred method, but that'll be last resort.
I will be utilizing a custom made oil pan from Fueled Racing and made by Moroso. It'll be specific for the swap kit. Keep your eyes on that coming to the market later this year. It'll also come with the driveshaft
I got my knuckles from a local Soarer expert. He chopped up the knuckles and filled in the ABS sensor area with an unknown substance. However, you could just keep the actual sensor in there and just cut the wiring.
I will be using the factory SC300 master. If it fails, I'll upgrade to a Willwood. I'm not running a crazy clutch set up. Just factory replacement, so theoretically it should be enough.
Hope that helps man!
UPDATE! Small one though, but at least with quality pictures.
ALL the parts needed for the rebuild, absolutely everything, finally came in! Going to try and drop off this stuff at the machine shop this weekend and hopefully have the engine fully assembled by the following weekend.
Parts list for the engine build...
GM MLS headgaskets
GM head bolts
GM Main inner and outer bolts
Victor reinz valley cover, throttle body gasket, valve cover, and intake gaskets
Generic water pump
-16AN fittings for the water pump and radiator
165F thermostat
Water pump gaskets
LS6 Springs
Howard's Cams version of the GM Performance ASA cam but with a 113LSA instead of the original 110LSA
LS2 lifter trays
ARP cam bolts
GM rear cover, bolts, crank seal, and cover gasket
GM front cover gasket
GM intake and exhaust valve seats
GM LS7 lifters
Hastings rings
Clevite oversized rod bearings
ARP rod bolts
Clevite cam journal bearings and main bearings standard
GM performance oil pump
GM oil pan gasket
GM front main seal
Overall, this isn't a crazy engine build. it's being built to factory standards with upgraded parts. My goal is to have a VERY stout engine that will take a beating and I won't have to even think twice of bouncing off the rev limiter with back to back hot laps. Which is also why I went with a version of the ASA cam. It's not too aggressive, but it's known to have one badass torque curve. Not to mention that GM took years in engineering this camshaft for endurance racing, so it is designed to have a very broad powerband and have life longevity. At the end i would expect to dyno somewhere around the mid to high 300 hp/lb ft of torque which is enough for drifting and having fun.
01-15-15, 08:06 AM
#13
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yea im using the soarer torsen diff which is like 4.08 or something like that? i hate it though lol..wanna get a welded diff for the predictability and a higher gear ratio for the quicker acceleration through the gears
01-15-15, 09:30 AM
#14
Driver School Candidate
Ask away man! I'm more than happy to help with whatever I can...
For the ABS delete, check out Suspicious Garage. Either his website or facebook. Just contact Efrain, the owner, and he makes the ABS deletion lines with all the proper fittings.
As far as the e-brake, I'm currently working on a dual caliper set up, so if that goes through, then the e-brake will independently operate the second set of rear calipers. However, if it doesn't happen, then I'll just tie in the e-brake with the existing rear line. Not my preferred method, but that'll be last resort.
I will be utilizing a custom made oil pan from Fueled Racing and made by Moroso. It'll be specific for the swap kit. Keep your eyes on that coming to the market later this year. It'll also come with the driveshaft
I got my knuckles from a local Soarer expert. He chopped up the knuckles and filled in the ABS sensor area with an unknown substance. However, you could just keep the actual sensor in there and just cut the wiring.
I will be using the factory SC300 master. If it fails, I'll upgrade to a Willwood. I'm not running a crazy clutch set up. Just factory replacement, so theoretically it should be enough.
Hope that helps man!
For the ABS delete, check out Suspicious Garage. Either his website or facebook. Just contact Efrain, the owner, and he makes the ABS deletion lines with all the proper fittings.
As far as the e-brake, I'm currently working on a dual caliper set up, so if that goes through, then the e-brake will independently operate the second set of rear calipers. However, if it doesn't happen, then I'll just tie in the e-brake with the existing rear line. Not my preferred method, but that'll be last resort.
I will be utilizing a custom made oil pan from Fueled Racing and made by Moroso. It'll be specific for the swap kit. Keep your eyes on that coming to the market later this year. It'll also come with the driveshaft
I got my knuckles from a local Soarer expert. He chopped up the knuckles and filled in the ABS sensor area with an unknown substance. However, you could just keep the actual sensor in there and just cut the wiring.
I will be using the factory SC300 master. If it fails, I'll upgrade to a Willwood. I'm not running a crazy clutch set up. Just factory replacement, so theoretically it should be enough.
Hope that helps man!
Do you have pictures of the ABS deletion kit and/or pictures of it installed? I'd like to save the money and make it myself if possible.
I'll go dual caliper someday
just want to get it plumbed inline for the time being. Let us know when you get yours mounted and such, and also if your clutch master works, cause that would be sweet.
